Tag Archives: 无我茶会Sans Self Tea Gathering

「泡茶师作品」的分析-許玉蓮

「泡茶师作品」的分析

許玉蓮

「泡茶师的作品」比起「制茶师的作品」难懂,因「泡茶师的作品」并不只针对「可看见的」品茗空间而已。

制茶师于某段特定时间,在制茶空间施展一些被认可的手艺,或用手或借助机器操作,致使茶鲜叶转换生命的形态从茶青变成茶叶,茶叶即成为制茶师的作品。拥有一包茶叶,是拥有一位制茶师的作品。

茶叶其物具体可看、可嗅、可触摸,可收放着让它永远维持那个样子坐在那儿,它不会消失,像这样的作品,满足了实实在在「有形」的握在手中的「拥有欲」,相对容易理解作品的涵义,像字画、茶壶、雕塑都是有形体的作品。

茶叶作品被创作的大前提:茶叶是要拿来泡茶喝的,不然我们没有制造它的理由,鲜叶在树上不日将枯萎、死亡。茶鲜叶被制成茶叶作品后,有一天它会来到品茗空间完成「活着的使命」:即释出茶汁供人品用。泡茶师为了让茶叶作品「绽放生命」,就必须制作一个泡茶喝茶的地方,将所需要的设备摆布出来,独自一人或与一些品茗者汇集一起举行泡茶、喝茶之事。泡茶师制作的品茶空间(含茶席,下同)、行茶法、经过浸泡而从茶叶深处释放出来的茶汤以及喝完茶后的茶渣,谓之泡茶师的作品。

「茶汤会」整个过程会随着时间的过去而成为过去、茶汤喝了就无了,看不到摸不到也嗅不到、茶渣看了之后也丢进垃圾桶,这些从有变成无的泡茶程序、茶汤、茶渣,由于「握不住」,常常令人忽略它们才是组成作品的重要部分。

如何才能掌握住泡茶师的作品呢?不要把时间花在担心时间的流逝,时间总会过的,不要为了「怕忘记」而顾着拍照留念,整个过程变得只庸庸碌碌忙着摄影。泡茶品茶的过程一定会随着时间逝去的,故举行茶汤会时要全神投入,把当时的一分一秒都过好,时间虽然会永久消失,但在这段时间所发生的体验与接收到的领悟却会一直留在我们的身体,化身成为我们灵魂、智慧的一部分,永远和我们在一起,记忆可抗御时间的消逝。故泡茶品茶时要尽量清晰地感受整个流程、要敏锐地注视别人用心的所在、置身其间迎接正发生着的茶事。

「茶汤喝了就无了」它还算是作品吗?当然它是,凡眼睛看到的一碗茶汤、一杯茶汤,它仍然处于「未完成作品」,泡茶师本人或与品茗者将茶汤喝了,是「泡茶师的作品」发展的进序,至此,人们才深刻的享受到这个揉合了制茶师与泡茶师的思想与手艺,最终被呈献出来的「茶汤作品」。在一位泡茶师的品茗空间里待过、品过他冲泡出来的茶汤,才算是拥有过那个泡茶师的作品。

被喝进肚子了看不见了的「茶汤作品」并不代表它消灭了,反而一直「活」在我们的身体中,「茶汤作品」进入人们的身体,它的内含物影响着人们,如:好茶让人身心舒畅,心思灵敏;劣茶消耗人们的能量,妨碍身心健康;「茶汤」会改变人们内心的气场。拥有一包茶叶或一碗茶汤而没有喝它,是不能达到这种境界的。

茶渣最后被丢弃是更难让人接受它也属于「泡茶师的作品」的一部分,一般的作品都被人们供奉在最珍贵的位置上,茶渣最后都与厨余收在垃圾桶,怎么说是作品呢?所以泡茶喝茶的人在茶汤会进行的最后阶段,要将茶渣好好的请出来,好好阅读一番。预备一优质雪白的瓷器,拿起渣匙细心地将茶渣从茶壶邀请出来独坐大雄峰于瓷盘中,从各个角度注视它。这时的茶渣,悠悠然的以完全没有修饰的茶体呈献,不外求任何多余的奢侈的面相,此乃辨识茶渣作品。阅读完毕,将茶渣郑重地安放入滓方才结束茶汤会。懂得茶渣亦有生命,尊重它完成生命的方式,茶渣就是作品。

发表于中国《茶道》杂志每月专栏(完稿20150429) (2196)

Balancing ‘Freedom’ vs ‘Confinement’ at the Sans Self Tea Gathering -蔡荣章 Rong-tsang Tsai

無我茶會的「自由」與「法制」

Balancing ‘Freedom’ vs ‘Confinement’ at the Sans Self Tea Gathering

蔡荣章 Rong-tsang Tsai 

At a Sans Self Tea Gathering, seating is decided by random drawing. Participants settled down in a loop formation, then brew and serve tea in one direction for a pre-agreed number of brews. They remain seated after enjoying the last round of tea for a few minutes of music appreciation or meditation, before collecting their cups and packing up. The gathering then comes to an end. All participants of Sans Self Tea Gathering need to bring along their choice of tea ware and tealeaves; as such, there is no restriction on the method of brewing or the types of tealeaves used. This realizes one of the seven principles of Sans Self Tea Gathering: that there is no restriction as to the style or regional practice.

As the tea gathering progresses, small teapots, lidded cups and matcha tea bowls make their appearance; indeed, this is an interesting showcase of varieties. Sans Self Tea Gathering is a great opportunity to experience the different styles and regional practices of brewing in one occasion, where tea has brought people together. Differences only add to the substance and enjoyment of the Way of Tea. Everyone is free to make their choices and not confined to using a particular kind of tealeaves and brewing method.

Having said that, the absence of confinement is not a warrant for being ‘sloppy’ or ‘not serious’; otherwise, the standard of the tea gathering will go down. Participants will have to give it their all, and present the best possible tea infusion with their chosen brewing methods and styles. The ‘method’ is not confined, but it cannot be said for the ‘quality’.

The absence of confinement also refers to the discouragement of rigid ‘rules’ and ‘brewing rituals’.  While rules are crucial for the existence of Sans Self Tea Gathering, and brewing rituals are the basis upon which one’s spirit in the Way of Tea is founded, mechanical and formalistic practices will easily turn the event into a stage performance.

It is certainly not our aspiration to have Sans Self Tea Gathering becoming a mere style of tea gathering, or a school of thought pertaining to the Way of Tea. The rules and spirit must be maintained, and the quality keeps improving. Freedom and confinement, for this matter, will complement and balance each other.

 

  (1676)

無我茶會的「自由」與「法制」-蔡荣章

無我茶會的「自由」與「法制」

Balancing ‘Freedom’ vs ‘Confinement’ at the Sans Self Tea Gathering

蔡荣章 Rong-tsang Tsai 

無我茶會是以抽籤決定座次,大家圍成圈圈泡茶,泡完茶,依同一方向奉茶。泡完約定的次數,聽一段音樂或靜坐幾分鐘,收回杯子,收拾茶具,結束茶會。茶具與茶葉都是自備,帶怎樣的茶具,使用怎樣的泡茶方式,沖泡什麼茶葉,都沒有約束。所以無我茶會在七大精神中有一款是:無流派與地域之分。

茶會進行時,經常看到小壺茶、蓋碗茶、抹茶等不同的茶具同時出現,泡茶的方式與風格也各異其趣。由此讓人很容易地體會到與會者是出自不同的門派、來自不同的地區。大家沖泡的都是茶,品飲的也都是茶,不同的泡法與茶味只是增益了大家茶道生活的內涵與樂趣,作為結合各流派、各地域茶人共同泡茶、品茶的無我茶會當然是「茶葉、泡法不拘」了。

但是我們不能將此項「不拘」解釋為「隨意」與「不嚴謹」,否則茶會的品質就低落了。在你選定的泡茶方式與風格之下,應儘量表現得圓滿且具境界,茶湯更是不能泡壞了,不拘的是「方式」,而不是「品質」。

上述的「不拘」尚有一層意義,那就是不拘泥於一定的「茶會規則」與「泡茶儀軌」。茶會規則是無我茶會存在的必須條件,泡茶儀軌是個人茶道精神賴以維護的基礎,但是太過機械化、太過形式化,很容易變成了一部表演機器。

我們不希望無我茶會變成僵化的一種茶會形式或茶道流派,它的規矩與精神必須維護,品質必須不斷提升,就有如「自由」與「法制」的相互約制與相互成就一般。

 

  (1915)

The Question on Sans Self Tea Gathering with the most wrong Answer-蔡荣章 Rong-tsang Tsai

無我茶會錯誤最多的地方

The Question on Sans Self Tea Gathering with the most wrong Answer

蔡荣章 Rong-tsang Tsai

One of the questions for the 10th screening test for instructors of Sans Self Tea Gathering has an exceptionally high rate of error, at 66%. The question is as follows:

Which of the following should not be specified in the Notification?

A) the method to make tea B) the way to take tea C) the way to be seated on the seating mat D) the tea ware to be used

Prior to a Sans Self Tea Gathering, the Organizer would distribute a ‘Notification’ , which specifies the name of the tea gathering, time, venue, the way tea is to be served, the event flow and the distribution of task. ‘The way tea is to be served’ refers to the number of teas to be brewed, the number of brewing for each tea, the number of cups for each brewing, the direction in which tea is to be served and to which participant (e.g. first, third and fifth, etc), and whether onlookers will be served; if so, in what ways. This enables participants to understand the way in which a certain Sans Self Tea Gathering will take place.

As a rule, the Notification should not name the types of tea for brewing. The exception will be a ‘Green Tea for spring’ Sans Self Tea Gathering, whereby participants are requested to make green tea.  But it should not specify the origin or brand of the green tea. On the same basis, a Sans Self Tea Gathering should not be organized in the name of a certain tea plantation or brand name.

No restriction should be imposed on brewing. Any method, style or school of brewing is acceptable. As such, tea ware is not to be standardized. The requirement is for participants to brew well and the tea to be safe for consumption. Beverages that are not ‘genuine tea’ are not allowed. Since there is no restriction on the way to make tea, there is also none on ‘the way to take tea’.

You may wonder, if the way of brewing, serving and drinking is not restricted, isn’t there nothing much to be standardized? The fact is, when an instructor conducts training on Sans Self Tea Gathering, students are asked to follow instruction. It is because the instructor has identified, in his opinion, the best way for participation in a Sans Self Tea Gathering. However, if you have found a way that better suits you when it comes to attending a Sans Self Tea Gathering, you may go for it. This is not a matter of right or wrong.

The answer to this question is: All items (A, B, C and D) should not be specified in the Notification.

  (1681)

無我茶會錯誤最多的地方-蔡荣章 Rong-tsang Tsai

無我茶會錯誤最多的地方

The Question on Sans Self Tea Gathering with the most wrong Answers

蔡荣章 Rong-tsang Tsai

第十屆國際無我茶會指導老師甄試時,學科考試的第二十條答錯率高達66%。該題內容為:下列哪些項目是不可於公告事項上約定的:

(A)泡茶的方法 (B)喝茶的方法 (C)坐上「坐墊」的方法 (D)使用的茶具

無我茶會舉辦之前會對與會者發放“公告事項”,上面寫明茶會名稱、時間、地點、奉茶的方式、茶會的程序,以及工作分配等等。所謂“奉茶的方式”是指這次茶會要泡幾種茶、每種茶泡幾道、每道茶要奉幾杯、要向什麼方向奉給第幾位茶友、要不要奉茶給圍觀的人及如何的奉法。有了這些約定,參加無我茶會的人就知道應該如何進行這場茶會了。

但是在公告事項上不可以約束大家泡哪類茶,除非這次的茶會定名為“綠茶迎春無我茶會”,則可以要求大家都泡綠茶,但不可以進一步限制一定要沖泡哪個產區的茶、或是哪個廠牌的茶。依此類推,無我茶會也就不能以某某茶葉產區或廠牌為名來召開了。

無我茶會也不可以限制泡茶的方法,任何的泡茶方式、任何的流派都被允許。因此,所使用的茶具當然也不可以加以規範。但是將茶泡好,而且安全衛生是被要求的。非“真茶”類的飲料也不在被允許的範圍。居然泡茶方法不拘,那“喝茶方式”當然也不能設限了。

泡茶、奉茶、喝茶的方法都不受限制,當然也就沒有非怎麼操作不可的規定,然而在無我茶會的教育訓練上都有一套制式的規則,老師講解時、要求同學練習時都是依章行事,為什麼呢?因為老師選定了這套他認為最好的方式來參與無我茶會,所以他要求向他學習的茶友要如此地執行。但是如果你有更適合自己的泡茶方式,在參加無我茶會時是可以使用自己的方式的,這個時候老師不可以説你不對。

所以這條試题的答案是ABCD皆不可於公告事項上約定。

  (1733)

The artistic manifestation of the Way of Tea as expressed by Sans Self Tea Gathering -蔡荣章 Rong-tsang Tsai

無我茶會表現的茶道藝術

The artistic manifestation of the Way of Tea as expressed by Sans Self Tea Gathering

 蔡荣章 Rong-tsang Tsai

 Student: ‘As far as the Way of Tea is concerned, what is the difference between Sans Self Tea Gathering and other ways of making tea?’

‘Sans Self Tea Gathering is a form of tea gathering. It differs from the ten brewing methods we talk about from time to time; those are ways in which we make tea. Besides Sans Self Tea Gathering, there are also tea gatherings in the form of tea presentation setting, banquet or free-flow. Meanwhile, as you all know, brewing methods may involve small teapots, big containers or extended steeping of tealeaves, to name a few.’

‘In the artistic manifestation of the Way of Tea, the method of brewing is an application. How about the different kinds of tea gathering? ’

‘They are both applications in the artistic manifestation of the Way of Tea. Tea gathering is the style, brewing method is the means.’

‘Is the format of tea gathering and tea presentation setting the same as the “environment for tea drinking”?’

‘These are different concepts. The artistic manifestation of the Way of Tea should not be too dependent on, or too mindful of, the environment for tea drinking; otherwise, we will forget that we are brewing tea. The format of tea gathering, however, has an immediate impact on the art itself – the way tea ware affects the tea infusion and the brewing method the enjoyment of tea. The format of tea gathering should not be viewed as an environment for tea drinking; but rather, a part of the artistic manifestation of the Way of Tea.

‘Where lies the beauty of Sans Self Tea Gathering, apart from its role in the artistic manifestation of the Way of Tea?’

‘Although there is no event director on site, a Sans Self Tea Gathering takes place like clockwork. Each participant brews tea, then rise to serve tea to fellow participants on their left or right. After taking the first brew, each prepares another brew and serve, until the agreed number of brewing has been attained. After staying at their places for a short music appreciation, the participants go forth to collect their cups and pack. That’s when the tea gathering comes to an end. Throughout the tea gathering, no one speaks or directs the event flow; everyone follows the pre-agreed procedure and method. Such is the collective rhythm of Sans Self Tea Gathering – when all the participants put their heart and soul into brewing, serving and enjoying tea, a kind of beauty unique to the Way of Tea prevails.’

 ‘Would it be possible to look upon the entire tea gathering, from tea setting through tea brewing and serving to taking the tea, as a piece of work?’

‘Experiencing, or rather enjoying, the art of the Way of Tea is certainly realized by the entire tea gathering. The only worry is over emphasizing the impact of the event at the expense of the tea infusion; and the worry is real. Because of this, we have proposed the concept of the ‘Quintessential Way of Tea’, which helps us re-focus on the tea infusion. Tea, after all, is at the core of the artistic manifestation of the Way of Tea. This way, it won’t be mistaken as the art of tea drinking environment, the art of tea brewing or the art of moral enlightenment. You may say: Well, ain’t I making tea just the same?  True, but the pre-requisite is the realization that tea, the infusion, is at the heart of the Way of Tea.

(1703)

無我茶會表現的茶道藝術-蔡荣章 Rong-tsang Tsai

無我茶會表現的茶道藝術

The artistic manifestation of the Way of Tea as expressed by Sans Self Tea Gathering

 蔡荣章 Rong-tsang Tsai

「無我茶會與泡茶法在茶道藝術的架構上有何不同?」學生問。

「無我茶會是〝茶會型式〞的一種,而我們常提的十大泡茶法是各種不同功能的〝泡茶方法〞。前者的茶會型式還有茶席式的茶會、宴會式的茶會、流觴式的茶會等,後者的泡茶方法就如小壺茶法、大桶茶法、含葉茶法等等。」

「就茶道藝術而言,泡茶方法是應用的方法,那茶會型式是什麼呢?」

「茶會型式與泡茶方法都是茶道藝術的應用媒介。茶會型式提供茶道藝術表現的一種方式,泡茶方式提供茶道藝術表現的一種手段。」

「〝茶會型式〞與茶席設置時所謂的〝品茗環境〞是一個概念嗎?」

「不是一個概念。我們說茶道藝術不能太依賴、太關注品茗環境,免得忘掉了自己在泡茶。但是茶會型式卻是直接影響茶道藝術本體,就有如茶具直接影響茶湯一般、就有如泡茶方法直接影響茶湯的被享用一般,茶會型式不能視為品茗環境,茶會型式與它要表現的茶道藝術是綁在一體的。」

「拋掉無我茶會在茶道藝術架構上的地位,無我茶會有何茶道藝術上的美感境界?」

「無我茶會在無人指揮的情況之下,大家將茶泡好,起身將茶依同一方向奉給左鄰或右鄰的茶友,然後大家喝茶,喝完茶又開始泡茶,泡完茶大家又一起起身奉茶。喝完最後一道茶,靜坐原位聽一段音樂,然後大家出去收回自己的杯子,收拾茶具,結束茶會。在大家席間不語、無人指揮的情況之下,大家依照事先約定的程序與方法進行著茶會的種種過程,這是茶道進行的一種美感。大家都不說話地專心泡茶、專心奉茶、專心喝茶,也是茶道的一種美感境界。」

「能不能從茶席設置到泡茶、奉茶、品茗,將整個茶會視為一件作品來看呢?」

「體會,或說是享用茶道藝術當是以茶會全場為標的,只怕大家太關注整場的演出效果而忽略了茶,事實上是極易導致這樣結果的,所以我們提出純茶道的理念,要大家把重心放在茶上,放在茶道藝術的核心上,只要這麼做了,自然就是茶道藝術,而不是品茗環境藝術、不是泡茶藝術、不是道德藝術。大家會說:我不是在泡茶嗎?沒錯,但這個前提必須充分把握住茶道的核心:茶,茶湯。」

  (1727)

The true meaning of ‘setting aside personal preferences’-蔡荣章 Rong-tsang Tsai

無好惡之心的真諦

The true meaning of ‘setting aside personal preferences’

蔡荣章 Rong-tsang Tsai

‘Setting aside personal preferences’ is important when it comes to appraising tealeaves – our preference for certain types of tea makes it hard for us to be objective and unbiased when we are assessing the quality of teas. The same can be said of Sans Self Tea Gathering. A participant may be served with four types of tea (if each person is served four cups) because there is no restriction on tealeaves. As such, we have to accept and appreciate the tea offered by others. Keep our mind and heart open, and ‘set aside personal preferences’.

Having said that, ‘setting aside personal preferences’ is different from ‘not being able to tell the good from the bad’. There are two sides to the idea – firstly, it refers to the absence of a very strong feeling towards what one likes and dislikes; secondly, it refers to the ability to rise above personal feelings when we look at, accept and even appreciate matters that are different from what we are accustomed to. In the world of tea, there are different varieties – green tea, pu’er, oolong, black tea, and a lot more. If you insist on drinking oolong and neglect green tea, you are depriving yourself of the beauty of green tea. Meanwhile, tealeaves come in different qualities, from unbelievably good to downright poor. Your may choose to take only tea of premium quality, but what if there is none? You will probably say, “Well, this is not my cup of tea.” Or think, “I would rather pass on it than corrupting my taste”. Some fellow tea drinkers declare, “I take only the first two brews (referring to small pot brewing)” just to tell the others that latter infusions are not good enough for them. This attitude has left much to be desired because it rules out possibilities. By putting themselves on a materialist high ground, they are imposing upon themselves a form of self-imprisonment – it is not uncommon to see some people bolstered by wealth, knowledge or moral authority staying in self-built prisons and act in stereotyped ways.

This will bring us to what Laozi said: Harmonize with all that is bright as daylight, and identify with all that is common as dust. By breaking down the barrier between the self and the world around – light and dust included – we will be able to feel genuinely free in this vast universe.

What we advocate is an open mind and an open heart. Appreciate different types of tea with objectivity. Accept tea of different grades. Take all infusions, first or latter, with pleasure. The study of tea may be about progress –better quality tealeaves, better brew and better tea-drinking environment. And yet, we should not rule out latter infusions of lesser quality tea (as allowed by circumstances) if these are made with one’s best effort. (1824)

無好惡之心的真諦-蔡荣章

無好惡之心的真諦

The true meaning of ‘setting aside personal preferences’

蔡荣章 Rong-tsang Tsai

我們評鑒茶的時候會提到「無好惡之心」,因為對不同茶類的喜愛度有了差異,在評判茶葉品質高下時就不容易做到公平與客觀。我們在無我茶會時,也會討論到無好惡之心,因為參加茶會時的茶葉是自行攜帶,如果每人奉茶四杯,每人可能會喝到四杯不一樣的茶,這時要以超然的心情來接納、欣賞這四杯茶,培養自己「無好惡之心」。

「無好惡之心」與「好壞不分」、「善惡不分」是不一樣的。我們所說的無好惡之心包含兩個層面的意義,一個是對不同事物或個體不要有太強烈的喜歡與不喜歡之心,另一個層面是要以超然的心情來觀看、接納、甚至於欣賞這些不同意義、不同境界的事物。就以茶為例,茶有綠茶、普洱茶、烏龍茶、紅茶諸種類,如果你一直固執於喝烏龍茶而不喝綠茶,那綠茶之美就一直無法進入你的領域。再就品質高下而言,各種茶都有好壞之分,如果你僅固執於喝好茶,那遇到沒好茶時怎麼辦?你可以說「不喝」、「寧缺勿濫」。又常聽到有些茶友說:「我只喝前面二泡。」(當然是指小壺茶而言),表示後面幾泡的品質已不足以令他欣賞。這樣的品茗態度、這樣的處世態度並不是我們贊同的,因為這只有將自己縮小在一個小區塊內,這小區塊是不是就叫做「養尊處優」呢?還不只此,那是一處讓遊客觀光的監獄。有些有錢人家、有學問人家、有道德的人家都是居住在這樣的別墅內的。

談到這裡,不禁讓人想起「和光同塵」的問題了,老子要我們與光綫、塵土為伍,要我們逍遥於大地宇宙之間。

我們主張:各種不同類別的茶都要客觀地欣賞、各種不同等級的茶葉都要接受、後面數泡的茶湯也要以愉悅的心情接納。我們精進於茶學,希望製造出好的茶葉、泡出好的茶湯、釀造出好的品茗環境,但不排斥在精心營造之下,無可避免之次級品、沖泡數道之後的老舊茶湯。(不在精心營造之下的劣质品可以不接受。)

 

  (1924)

Feeling Free and Easy at the Tea Gathering-蔡荣章 Rong-tsang Tsai

逍遙於茶會的廣場

Feeling Free and Easy at the Tea Gathering

蔡荣章 Rong-tsang Tsai

Sans Self Tea Gathering advocates simplicity.  Participants bring along their favourite travel tea ware, sit on the floor in a loop formation, brew tea, offer tea to fellow participants on the left (or right) while reserving a cup for own consumption.  Details are stated in the ‘Notification’ distributed before the event; these include the starting time, the number of cups and brews, ‘after- tea activities’ (e.g. music appreciation or a few minutes of meditation). After brewing, serving and taking tea, participants collect their cups, tidy up and the tea gathering comes to an end.

There is no restriction as to the choice of tea ware, brewing method and tealeaves. Brewing well is the only requirement; it is the means to express the Way of Tea as one sees it. As such, how could we feel free and easy at the tea gathering with such a format?

Here are some tips. Take the seat decided by random drawing without any attachment to outcomes. Brew well, and offer your tea to fellow participants on your left or right, be they someone you want to get acquainted with or not. You will feel relaxed when you offer tea if you know the format of the tea gathering by heart. Don’t be judgemental; a benevolent mind is preferred. Otherwise, you would wonder why you have to offer tea to people whom you don’t know or like.

Better still; imagine yourself taking a helicopter view of the Sans Self Tea Gathering in progress. You will see a large group of people brewing, serving and taking tea in an orderly manner without an event director. Participants on both ends may not even see each other; but this would not stop them from moving in collective rhythm. It is as natural as the way our universe works – just like putting on extra clothing in winter only to take it off when warmer climes return in spring.

In the myth of Peng (giant bird) and Kun (giant fish), Zhuangzi said we should open up our mind. Explore the world high up and deep down, the way Peng and Kun did. He also pointed out that ‘the perfect man cares for no self; the holy man cares for no merit; the sage cares for no name.’ This mindset will make us feel free and easy at the Sans Self Tea Gathering and beyond.

 

  (1586)

San Self Tea Gathering requires full participation of all-蔡荣章-Rong-tsang Tsai

無我茶會是大家一起參與的茶會

San Self Tea Gathering requires full participation of all

蔡荣章-Rong-tsang Tsai

There is a certain format to follow when we organize a San Self Tea Gathering. With simple tea ware for travelling, each participant is to be seated in a loop formation and serve tea in one direction for a pre-agreed number of brews, after which they will pack up. A key feature is participation of all – each participant will have to be fully involved throughout the tea gathering. This is why someone once concluded that a San Self Tea Gathering is an occasion when everyone brew, serve and enjoy tea.

When a fellow tea drinker wanted to organize a San Self Tea Gathering some time ago, he announced, “It is proposed that the occasion accommodates forty participants, among whom twenty will bring along their tea ware for brewing. The rest, who either have difficulty in bring their tea ware, or are not familiar with the procedure of a San Self Tea Gathering, will be treated as onlookers and served by their fellow participants.” We were dumbfounded upon hearing this, as it could not be further from the spirit of a San Self Tea Gathering. Firstly, such arrangement would have undermined the intention to do away with hierarchy – there are bound to be people who find it too troublesome to bring their own tea ware, and ‘privileged’ ones who think that they are to be served rather than to serve. As such, the Organizer need to remind participants individually to ensure there are enough participants bringing the required tea ware. The truth is if such activities are to adopt the name of San Self Tea Gathering, it is necessary for them to adopt the practice as well.

We may chance upon some friends while on the way to a San Self Tea Gathering. It is fine to ask the friends to come along. These non-brewing participants could draw lots for seating, and may be served tea by fellow participants. The only thing is the participants to their left (if this is the direction in which tea is served) would be served one cup less (since these are non-brewing participants). Meanwhile, for venues with a lot of people passing by, there may be ‘onlookers’ who are interested in the tea gathering. The Organizer may arrange for a presenter to explain the nature of the activity to these onlookers, and prepare some disposable cups for serving a couple of brews to them. Do note that this is different in implication from telling participants beforehand that some of them are exempted from bringing along their tea ware.

The organizers must be able to master the nature of the activities they are putting together; this cannot be truer than when we are organizing tea gatherings with clear ideology. A failure in presenting San Self Tea Gathering with integrity would make it very hard for newcomers to feel for it.

 

  (1930)

無我茶會是大家一起參與的茶會-蔡荣章

無我茶會是大家一起參與的茶會

San Self Tea Gathering requires full participation of all

蔡荣章 Rong-tsang Tsai

無我茶會是大家攜帶簡便的旅行用茶具,圍成圈圈泡茶,泡好茶後依同一方向奉茶;大家品飲完約定的泡數,收拾茶具,結束茶會。這其中有一項根本的原則就是「大家攜帶……」,意指「大家共同參與」。所以才有人歸結無我茶會為:人人泡茶、人人奉茶、人人喝茶的茶會。

有次一位茶友主辦無我茶會,對外宣佈:「擬接受四十人報名參加,但其中要有二十個人攜帶茶具泡茶,其餘的人,如果不便帶茶具,或是不懂得如何進行無我茶會,就當作圍觀者,一旁接受別人的奉茶」。當我們聽到這樣的說詞,感到非常驚訝,發現已偏離無我茶會的主軸遠矣。首先,無尊卑之分的觀念即遭受破壞,在這樣的說法之下,有些人會嫌攜帶茶具麻煩,有些人會覺得以自己的地位無須泡茶給別人喝。這時,主辦單位必須逐個叮嚀,才會有預期的人數攜帶茶具。既然以「無我茶會」為活動的名稱,就應該依照無我茶會的規矩進行。

路上碰見朋友,於是一同前往參加無我茶會,無我茶會允許他們一塊兒抽籤,一同接受奉茶,只是他們左邊(若約定向左奉茶)的幾個人少一杯茶喝而已(因為這幾位臨時加入的人沒能泡茶)。至於所謂「圍觀者」是指茶會在眾人出入頻繁的場所進行,難免有群眾駐足圍觀,這時無我茶會可以安排一位對外的解說員,告訴圍觀者這群泡茶的人正在進行一項怎樣的活動,並安排一二道茶,以一次性杯子奉茶給圍觀的人共飲。這與活動籌備之時就言明有些人可以不帶茶具泡茶是不同意義的。

每一項活動的舉辦都必須掌握它的特質,尤其具有強烈思想性的茶會形式。否則無法將其面貌完整呈現,也難於讓初次接觸者產生感動。

 

  (1915)

Why is tea served in one direction at the Sans Self Tea Gathering? -蔡荣章-Rong-tsang Tsai

无我茶会为何非要单边奉茶不可

Why is tea served in one direction at the Sans Self Tea Gathering?

蔡荣章-Rong-tsang Tsai

I am pretty clear of the reasons for most of the practices of Sans Self Tea Gathering. For instance, why a ‘loop’ seating arrangement is preferred; why seating is determined by random drawing; why participants are free to choose their brewing method, tea ware and tealeaves; why all participants have to observe the rule of silence; why there is no master of ceremonies; and why each participant takes tea brewed by the others as well as themselves. And yet, one thing puzzles me. Why do we serve tea in only one direction?

Participants of Sans Self Tea Gathering serve tea in one direction. For example, if a participant is to brew four cups of tea, three of these will be served to the three fellow participants on the left, and the last one reserved for own consumption. If it is agreed that tea is be served to the second, fourth and sixth fellow participants on the right, and the last one reserved for oneself, everyone will follow. Someone once said, “Is it not equally orderly if I serve one cup to the participant on my left, and two cups to the participants on my right, while reserving the last one for myself?” Another person suggested, “Why couldn’t I serve the first brew to the three participants on my immediate left, the second brew to the three participants on my immediate right, and the third brew to the fourth, fifth and sixth participants on my left? This way, I would be able to serve more people.” The fact is, serving tea in one direction would steer us away from any expectation of reciprocity – we serve tea to participants on our left, and are served by participants on our right. For the two suggestions mentioned above, the second idea is somewhat acceptable under this principle, but not the first one.

Principle aside, the emphasis on social interaction is too strong if we are to, as the second suggestion goes, serve tea to our left and right. Anyhow, the persons to be served may not be at their own places. Engrossing in social interaction distracts our attention from tea. At a Sans Self Tea Gathering, we are not encouraged to be too mindful of who the brewers are. When we are to serve certain participants in the designated direction, we will be able to do so for the sole purpose of serving. Meanwhile, taking four brews from the same people would enable us to feel the sincerity and efforts of the brewers. A wider coverage may increase the reach, but it will be hard to get to know the tea and the person in just one cup, as each cup of tea in each round comes from a different person. Furthermore, it is impossible to rinse the cup for different tea every time.

Even when everything goes like clockwork, there could still be such a scenario: a participant may want to offer one or two extra cups of tea to someone he wants to get acquainted or catch up with, having noticed that there is still some tea left. This is, however, too socially-inclined, and may cause misunderstanding among those you have served during the gathering – they may think that you serve them because you have to abide by the rules, but the people over there are the ones you really care!

What Sans Self Tea Gathering advocates is a peaceful, comfortable, and exquisite way of living.  Simple, necessary rules are fine; an excessive emphasis on functionality and requirements may undermine its charm.

  (1695)

无我茶会为何非要单边奉茶不可-蔡荣章

无我茶会为何非要单边奉茶不可

Why is tea served in one direction at the Sans Self Tea Gathering?

蔡荣章-Rong-tsang Tsai

无我茶会围成圈圈泡茶我懂、抽签决定座次我懂、泡茶方式与茶具不拘我懂、茶叶种类不拘我懂、会间不准说话我懂、茶会进行时不设司仪我懂、喝别人的茶也喝自己的茶我懂,唯独单边奉茶我不懂。

无我茶会的奉茶是采单边奉茶的方式,例如约定每人泡茶4杯,奉茶给左邻三位茶友,最后一杯留给自己,大家就都依着这么做,如果约定每人奉茶给右邻2、4、6三位茶友,最后一杯留给自己,大家也都依着这么做。有人说,我奉一杯给左邻,二杯给右邻,一杯给自己,不是也很有规律?也有人建议,为什么不第一道奉给左邻3位,第二道茶奉给右邻3位,第三道茶奉给左邻4、5、6位,这样不是可以奉茶给更多的人喝吗?无我茶会之所以采取单边奉茶的方式,其目的在养成大家〝放淡报偿之心〞,因为我奉茶给左边的茶友,但喝到的茶是来自右边。前面第二个建议还能不违背这项原则,但是第一个建议就不对了。

违背无我茶会基本原则的做法姑且不说,即使第二个建议,第一道奉到东,第二道奉到西,我们也认为太过社交性,况且你奉茶时对方不见得在座位上。太过社交性也降低了对茶的专注,我们还提醒大家不必太关心喝到的是哪位茶友所冲泡的茶呢。如果都是同样的奉给某一方向的某几个人,你可以全然地无所为而为的奉茶,在接受奉茶的一方可以专心品尝每一杯茶的四道茶汤,足可深刻体会对方认真为你冲泡的茶汤作品。如果只是泛泛地奉茶,虽说是与会者间的接触面增加了,但每道都是新的茶,都是不同人泡的茶,小小的一杯茶汤是不足以体认茶、体认人的,而且杯子又没能每次清涮。

另一个现象是:都依规矩做了,但奉完茶后发现还剩有茶汤,于是就跑到他想要特意结交的那个或那几个人那里加奉了一杯或二杯。这也都是属于太过社交性的做法,而且容易引起误会,以为你奉茶给我只是依规定行事,事实上你的朋友在那儿。

无我茶会想要塑造的是安详、自在、且精致的生活,简单且足够的规章就行了,太多的功能性与对它太多的需求反而减弱了它的可爱。

(完稿20120829周三小方块WEDNESDAY TEA CORNER)

 

(1821)

20131225-发展中国家茶文化与茶产业发展官员研修班的一次课-蔡荣章

20131225

发展中国家茶文化与茶产业发展官员研修班的一次课

蔡荣章

这是漳州科技学院举办的第十次发展中国家茶文化与茶产业发展研修班,本期从2013.11.08~3013.12.05,是较短期的一班,有来自埃及、缅甸、尼泊尔、巴基斯坦、肯尼亚、马拉维、埃塞俄比亚、布隆迪、津巴布韦、马里、尼日利亚、玻利维亚、厄瓜多尔等13个国家的21位学员。课程安排了一个下午三节课的“从茶叶茶汤看茶道内涵”。

这次课之前已有各类茶制作与审评、小壶茶法、无我茶会等基础课程,也到湖北省武汉市、宜昌市、神农架等地的茶区、茶企参观过,在这样的基础上是比较容易谈茶叶茶汤欣赏与茶道内涵的。

每两位同学前摆放白纸一张,各放上绿茶、清香型乌龙茶、熟香型乌龙茶、条型红茶、普洱散茶一小撮。请学员观看茶样颜色的变化,理解发酵轻重造成茶叶在颜色上的差异,接着复习过去课堂上体会到的香气从菜香、花香、果香、糖香到木香的变化,以及滋味从“天然”到“人为后”的改变。看完“颜色种类”的改变,再请学员观看“颜色深浅”的变化,藉此讲解焙火对茶叶的影响,让大家回忆焙火岩茶与清香型铁观音在清香与熟香间、在清凉与温暖间的不同。接着又请大家判断茶样芽与叶的多寡,讲起了茶青成熟度对成品茶的影响,让大家清楚芽茶类与叶茶类在品赏上的差异处。由于学员们来自茶叶有关的政府部门或是茶的企业,对茶并不陌生,只是欠缺各大茶类全面性的认识,所以一加整理也就明白了。

休息一下后开始讲解茶叶外形的成因。揉捻的轻重对茶叶外形的改变一说就明白,但揉捻造成茶性的改变就不容易理解了。直到最后将揉捻说成是对茶的一种折磨,折磨得愈重(加压大、时间长),茶的香气与滋味会变得低频,有如大提琴的风格,折磨得愈轻,茶的香气与滋味会变得高频,有如小提琴的风格。这时学员们的脸部肌肉才顿然放松。

比起红茶、绿茶、乌龙茶,他们对普洱茶比较生疏,但是他们在中国的这段时间是看足了普洱茶,对它的好奇心可以想见。花了许多时间在渥堆、入仓、陈放的讲解上,也详细说明了这类后发酵茶的欣赏要领。讲完后引燃了他们的发问,他们说:茶界制造出了这么多种茶类,我们要怎么品饮它们?我说当您喝到绿茶时是不是像看到了一片绿油油的田野;当您喝到铁观音或岩茶时是不是像进入了一片森林,树木都长得顶天立地;当您喝到白毫乌龙或称为东方美人时是不是像走进了玫瑰花园,一片艳丽?当您喝到红茶时是不是像走在秋天的枫树林下,一片枫红?那普洱茶呢,就像修道者进入了深山古刹。大家笑了出来,有人点了点头。

已过了休息时间,趁大家在茶味的兴头上,开始带进茶道艺术的话题。藉着他们对音乐等艺术的了解,说到音乐是藉声音表现艺术的美、绘画是藉线条与色彩表现艺术的境界、舞蹈是藉肢体,那茶道艺术呢,以泡茶、奉茶、品茶为媒体,在泡茶与奉茶间将茶干、茶汤、叶底的美与茶特有情感表现出来。茶不只种类多,每批茶也风格各异,加上泡茶的技法、使用的茶器、以及泡茶者对茶道的诠释,可以呈现出各种美感与思想的内涵,这就是茶道。听到这里,有学员很快地就提出了“禅”与“瑜珈”,我想他们是可以体会到茶道意境的。

有了这样对茶、对各种茶、对泡茶、对茶道、对茶道艺术的认识,学员们回去后比较会常泡茶,而且以艺术的心情泡茶,泡出好的味道泡出茶道的境界,感到喜悦地与朋友共享。我们相信各地方的人都可以欣赏各种茶,不因食物的习惯也不因生长的环境,只要有欣赏各种茶的机会。我们也相信各地方的人都可以理解与享用茶道艺术,只要有认识茶道艺术的教育机会。

  (2000)