在茶桌上煮杯好吗-许玉莲

在茶桌上煮杯好吗

许玉莲

20130326马来西亚《光明日报》每周“茶人的第三隻眼”专栏

泡茶时如何照顾茶杯的卫生?或如何让品茗者知道茶杯都是干净卫生的呢?先说一说茶界如何对待杯子的情况,刚开始时,大家把茶杯漫不经心地放一边,要用时就放在桌面的茶盘上用热水淋一淋、浇一浇杯子谓之洗杯,要先冲过热水才放心。也有人用一碗热水浸着杯子,要的时候才取出。后来一些地方逐渐放弃这两种手法,一些地方却将洗杯演变成在桌面上煮杯,他们在茶桌上预备了电磁炉,炉上置小锅入水,将喝茶杯子放进锅里不断地煮着,要用时才取出倒茶来向大众表示「我有在做卫生」。

在茶桌上无论煮杯或洗杯,都属于一种不恰当的泡茶程序,难道这些杯子都是不干净的吗?如果属实,那么为何要用不干净的杯子呢?要是本来就干净的话,就无须当着品茗者面前再洗一次啊。泡茶者的这种行为显示现今茶文化进程还很缓慢,人们对干净、卫生的态度仍然只是停留在初步阶段。煮杯有什么不好呢?这表示人们在要取信于他人时,以为在表面做个样子给大家看看就可以了,并无真正从关心人体卫生作为出发点。真要讲究卫生的话,茶杯应该在之前就做好准备:该清洗的清洗,该干燥的干燥,该消毒的消毒,该保温的保温才对,这些都无需要当着客人面做。

茶道观念要求茶席、茶器具、茶叶、泡茶者等人事物本来就应该很干净,比如桌巾、茶巾、茶匙、茶签需定时清洗干燥后才再拿出来用,比如用过的茶渣要好好的收入水盂或水桶,勿随便丢弃在桌面和地上,比如泡茶者全身上下应维持整洁状态,茶席上的卫生不应简单化到以为形式上做做或口头上讲讲而已。故此,茶文化要加快脚步往前发展时,这些让人感觉用心与谨慎的动作要在泡茶前就提早做好,建立人们的信心,人们喝茶时才会安心。

一般茶行可以怎么做呢,先说清洗:用过的茶杯与茶具,不能在茶席上清洗,您有见过咖啡馆和餐厅在餐桌上为客人清洗杯子或碗碟的吗,洗涤要有一个洗涤茶器物的专属地方,这个地方必须很清楚的分出来,不可与其他食物、厨余混合着用,因为茶器不许沾染异味和油腻。再说杯子的干燥、灭菌:为茶杯、茶壶及茶具准备一个专用烤箱(须选择合适的功率、功能及大小),将已经清洗过的茶杯等器放进烤箱,则可利用高温把杯子烘干兼灭菌,然后才存放进干净的橱子。

关于泡茶前的温杯:首先需建立起泡茶可以不必温杯这个观念,然后再决定什么时候要温,怎样温。要温时在泡茶前打开烤箱用低温把杯子和茶壶温热一下,代替将热水淋入壶和茶杯来完成温壶温杯作用,从此茶桌上不必弄得湿嗒嗒的,也解决了品茗者对泡茶者为什么一直在那儿煮杯、洗杯、温杯的困扰。

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水的欣赏-20130417周三小方块-蔡荣章

水的欣赏

蔡荣章

20130417周三小方块WEDNESDAY TEA CORNER

泡茶的人最会欣赏水了,为了泡茶不远千里去提水、去赏水,除了生饮之外还讲究要用什么壶具煮水、用什么燃料煮水、用什么杯子饮水。知水者在泡茶之外,还会脫离泡茶而与水直接对话,这时的水是不必煮开就欣赏的,好的水、新鲜的水、知水者找到的水是干净的、无菌的,生饮更能享受水的甘美与原味。纯水(仅由氢2氧1组合而成)是空无一味的, 刚才所说的好水是微带矿物质(如100ppm以下) 、无他气污染, 喝来是甘美的。这甘美是清淨无味中体会到的味道,不像纯水那么空荡荡。

用上述的好水泡茶,可以让茶内的成分(含香气)自由地溶出,纯水的溶出效果反而没有那么好,矿物质或杂气含量太多的水(如300ppm以上),会干扰茶的味道与溶出(如铁质太多,茶汤会变黑)。至于好水泡茶,茶内的成分如何自由地溶出,要看水温、茶水比例、壶质等的掌握,好的茶汤要汤内的成分依所希望的比例组配,若咖啡因含量太多会显得太苦、茶多酚的比例太重会显得太涩。

以上对水的欣赏是将水捧在手心、含在嘴里的,还有另一种对水的欣赏是遥望。一潭水很秀丽,一湖水很平静,一线从天而下的瀑布很壮观,汪洋中的狂风巨浪很雄伟,都属于遥望。前者欣赏水的内质,是水的亲人、知己,后者欣赏水的外在表现,是水的朋友、观众,都还是直接面对水的本身,都是对水的直接欣赏。另一种遥望式的欣赏是欣赏池子里的游魚,观赏月夜湖面的光影,坐在小船上看着流水感歎逝者如斯不舍昼夜,这些都不是对水的直接欣赏,甚至于忽略掉水的存在。

茶屋的庭园里很少设魚池,甚至于不用假山瀑布,茶人们喜欢潺潺的水声,喜欢用石头凿出手水钵来洗手淨心,喜欢将水洒在树上来感受它的清凉,喜欢把水拿来饮用与泡茶,茶人是水的亲人水的知己。

  (2084)

品茗馆泡茶师制度的建立-20130415周一喝茶慢-许玉莲

品茗馆泡茶师制度的建立

许玉莲

20130415周一喝茶慢MONDAY SLOW TEA

为客人泡茶的泡茶师排班制度要如何建立?品茗馆先要找出泡茶师的来源,他们有一. 馆内自己的泡茶师。此类泡茶师是品茗馆的工作人员,他们可以是老板、经理或行政人员等,平时有专属范畴的工作,但每周安排固定时钟掌席为客人泡茶。即他们是品茗馆的专职人员,同时也是拥有泡茶能力的泡茶师,兼职泡茶师的工作。二.驻馆专职泡茶师。聘请有泡茶能力的泡茶师,专门从事为客人泡茶的工作。三.外聘兼职泡茶师。约好泡茶师每周来几次,每次有固定时钟为客人服务,平日他们可能有别的工作。四.特约泡茶师。这类泡茶师只有特定时间才来到这里,无法天天来,故有机会时才客串。

经营者根据营业时段、客流量、品管要求、人事成本等条件排班,将泡茶师阵容排出后,由经营者决定要不要向外界广宣泡茶师名单。如经营者想要将品茗馆经营成一种艺术家的风格,不妨公布泡茶师名单,客人可依据自己喜爱的泡茶师的特定掌席时间光顾,就是为了喝他泡的茶,泡茶师是谁变成是经营品茗馆的一种号召力。馆内每位泡茶师都可有不一样的想法来呈现茶的内涵,长远来说这样比较能形成一种良性竞争,泡茶师们都需要抱持着精进之心,不可荒废了手上的泡茶功夫,不然没客人要喝他泡的茶。客人可自由欣赏到心仪的泡茶师的茶汤作品,品茗肯定会更愉快。

如经营者选择了一定的品茗方向与市场,以馆的理念来做成强烈个性的招牌,不用客人烦恼是哪位泡茶师泡茶,客人自会被「品牌」吸引,这类型品茗馆需具备完整培训计划把理想方针教育到位,由经营者对客人负责就好,泡茶师名单就是一张普通店内的轮班表而已。

泡茶师阵容排出后,估计最少会产生两大类客人,其一:爱什么时候来就来,也无所谓泡茶师是哪位,像这样只要按照泡茶师排班表进行即可,轮到谁值班就谁泡。其二:有些客人希望能够喝到某位泡茶师的茶汤作品,或希望能够在某段时间喝茶,如此的话,客人可根据品茗馆排出的泡茶师阵容与时间表提早买票或预订茶席,品茗馆需提前做好售票以及接受预定的服务准备。

泡茶师的酬劳怎么算呢,有四种情况:第一是只有底薪,每个月该获得多少就多少。第二是底薪加佣金,佣金视乎泡茶师服务了几位客人,以人头来计算,如每位客人客单价是一百元,泡茶师可获十元佣金,这个月他服务了五十位客人,佣金合计伍佰元。第三是没有底薪,不管服务了多少位客人,泡茶师每掌席泡茶一趟,即获得一趟的酬劳,如一趟三十元,本月共掌席一百次,合计该月酬劳三千元。第四是当茶文化产业发展至一个地步,越发成熟的泡茶师们都将各自拥有社会公认的一个「酬劳」,比如掌席泡茶一趟,甲等的获一千元,乙等的获伍佰元,丙等的获一百元以此类推。

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烧水如何判断水温-许玉莲

烧水如何判断水温

许玉莲

20130305马来西亚《光明日报》每周“茶人的第三隻眼”专栏

烧水如何控制水温?有人拿手指试探性摸摸壶身,用触觉判断水的温度。有人打开壶盖,将手掌放在上面试探水气的热度。有人用工业温度计比如饼干制造厂测量糖浆那种,形状像把手枪,按一下就有红外线照射着目的物,即时读出温度。有人建议在煮水壶上装置温度计,一劳永逸解决问题。前二者的动作都有点危险,随时会烫伤,并非合理方法。后二者太刻板太科技了啦,有些事情我们确实需要现代化器具协助了解、完成,但有必要留一些空间给泡茶者去用心感觉,免得到最后已忘记为何要这么做,我们要当自己的师傅,而不要把科技、器具当师傅。

用什么方式判断水温比较准确和安全呢,烧水过了一段时间后,打开壶盖检视热水气冒上来的状况,可凭水蒸气冒出的强、弱势知道水温。开始学习判断水温时要准备温度计以便做实验,实验的重点:好好的体会一下各种不同温度的水蒸汽冒上的状况,到底长什么样子,而不只是看温度计的指标,然后可依此整理出一个规则,作为往后泡茶时的判断依据。

有人说那不是很麻烦吗,学泡茶就要买温度计了?温度计也不是到处可以买到。不要紧,懒得去买温度计的人就听老师说,老师就是温度计。以下是从蒸汽冒上状况看水温的实验,以电壶加热,壶大小1100cc,为不锈钢壶。左为水温记录,右为水气冒上来的样子:

摄氏五十度:不容易察觉有水气

摄氏六十度:若隐若现,像有雾

摄氏七十度:柔柔弱弱的一缕轻烟

摄氏八十度:直沖而上

摄氏九十度: 快窜

摄氏九十五度:猛

摄氏九十八度:一束好大串的水气,又旺又猛

注意电水壶加热的热源是怎样的?一.是水中加热方式,这样煮水效果比较好,为什么呢,因为热能都被水吸收了。二.是壶外加热的方式,这种煮水壶的缺点是:部分热能会散发在室内,煮水时间要耗长一点。第一种比第二种的水蒸气会比较快冒上来,即同样一束大小的水气,第一种的水温要稍减五度。使用瓦斯、酒精或炭,消耗热能更多,而且室内氧气也随之消耗。在空气不流通的空间,不主张用这三样燃料来烧水。

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烧水方法不能脱离现实生活-许玉莲

烧水方法不能脱离现实生活

许玉莲

20130219马来西亚《光明日报》每周“茶人的第三隻眼”专栏

现在泡茶说「微波有声、涌泉如珠、腾波鼓浪」或说「蟹眼、鱼眼」来形容烧水的水温状况不切实际,观看煮一壶水的过程,一沸:当水底泛起轻轻的漩涡,水面微微的有点起伏,时而一粒一粒小水珠冒上来,这就是所谓「蟹眼」了,再仔细一点可听到从煮水壶传出来的「风入松」(风吹进松树林)之「沙…..沙……」声响,这时水温约摄氏七十多度。二沸:水面四周围已经皱卷,从壶底的水中央有一连串水泡不断冒上来,每一个水泡大如鱼眼,这时约摄氏八十多度。三沸:整壶水一波未停一波又起并「啵啵啵……」声响,约摄氏九十多一百度。

但现实生活中已没有多少个人会这样子「观水」、「听水」和「候水」,我们再也回不去古时的生活方式,因为制茶、煮茶、饮茶方法不一样,使用器皿、环境也不再,人们的价值观、心态与情感的寄托更加今非昔比,上述的说法是脱离了现代生活的。

就现时的烧水习惯而言,大家多用不锈钢、陶、银、铁器等盖着盖子来煮,很难看到水状的变化,除非使用玻璃器就透明可看,但玻璃煮水器选择不多,品质不是那么好的又影响茶味,大多不用。看是看不到了,听呢?除非特别找个清幽僻静的环境泡茶才能捕捉到「风入松」的声音,当代日常工作与生活地点无论在哪里都避不了电脑、手机、空调、交通工具、电视等发出来的声音,早已掩盖水烧开的「沙…..沙……」声,也听不到了。

候水烧开呢?适当地等一会儿如十五分钟加热,已经很了不起,要是烧一公升的水从头到尾要等四十五分钟至一小时,会耽误下半天的生活安排,偶尔为之或可行。因为我们建议一顿茶的喝茶时间约花二小时就好,加上来回、堵车时间几乎已半天。

不是我们要反对细腻地专注地生活和泡茶,不懂得享用泡茶过程的「观水」、「听水」和「候水」的安静时刻,只不过现代生活和泡茶借用很多现代用器如电水壶、温度计等,故此泡茶烧水应如何调整观念,以及整理出一套适合现代学茶人运用的阅读的烧水和水温的方法,如何通过一些现代用器的进步来提升泡茶的细腻,是我们在现代茶法要做的事。

  (2005)

烧水器的材质与加热方法-许玉莲

烧水器的材质与加热方法

许玉莲

20130212马来西亚《光明日报》每周“茶人的第三隻眼”专栏

泡茶烧水的加热方法有二种:一用电,二用炭,烧水指从冷水或室温水煮至滚开,这里没有包括用酒精灯,为什么呢?

酒精灯一直没法成为茶席上真正的烧水器,因为火力软、导致加热时间过长,使用过程想要调整火力不容易,泡到一半要加酒精费时费事,不能防风,让酒精灯只能承担为水保温的任务而已,即水在另外一个电水壶烧开后再倒过来茶席上的酒精炉继续烧免得水温降低了。

如使用有自动调节水温功能的电水壶,直接把电水壶放茶席上,酒精灯可弃。有些虽不能调节水温,然功率较强的电磁板煮水壶能煮水自如,酒精灯亦可弃。

烧炭不见得比酒精方便啊,炭炉为何可接受成为茶席上的煮水器?炭炉只需之前预备妥善炭料、燃料、用具,掌握并熟练起火方法,当把炭烧得火力均匀时便可稳当地摆在茶席上用,不必再做什么调度了,所以一点也不麻烦。

我们强调煮水器的发热及传播热量的功能要非常的均匀细腻,能全面分布壶底慢慢热起来,这样煮出来的水会烧得较「熟透」,定点猛热的烧不够好,因它影响水质。无论用电或炭煮水器,要留意其散发的热力可以「亲吻」到每一个水分子,比如无火舌、燃红的炭有红外线的热力,很耐用,均匀有力的热度可使水分子变得更细致,冲击着茶的深层内心,让茶叶在浸泡时释出更饱满的味道,茶喝起来有「溶化」和「滑」的口感。

我们也要求煮水壶要选用水喜欢的、并能够与之紧密结合的材质,因为水的每一个细胞、每一层肌肤无不紧紧密密地被煮水壶抱着,故此壶的材质与水不能抵触、或抵消水的品质或破坏水的风格,要能够让水「溶化」则水的质感就会「软化」。

煮水材质有玻璃壶、陶壶、银壶、铁壶、不锈钢壶、紫砂壶、黄铜壶等,每种材质煮出来的水「滋味」很不一样,烧坏了的会有「水味」,口感觉得「很锋利」,口腔有「锁住」的感觉,那将影响泡茶的茶汤味道。就现时在茶界可见到、用到的煮水器来说,以银器煮水泡茶,茶汤效果最细致,一丝一丝的滋味都紧贴着口腔每一个细胞,进入身体。再来依次黄铜、不锈钢、紫砂和陶。玻璃烧水有点「散散」的不集中感,铁器煮出来的水也不怎么可口,带「铁质味」和「杂质味」,并不利于泡茶发挥茶性。

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泡好一壶茶的信念-蔡荣章

泡好一壶茶的信念

蔡荣章

201302《海峡茶道》月刊专栏

我们说茶文化、茶道、茶道艺术、泡茶师、茶道艺术家、茶汤,都是要以茶为核心,因为脱离了茶,或是离茶太远(即涉茶的成分太少),就跑到别的领域去了。如果说茶文化,那是包括上游的种茶、制茶到中游的卖茶,下游的喝茶。如果说茶道,就把重心移到成品茶,再加上茶与人、茶与社会的关系。如果说茶道艺术,那就只关注到泡茶、奉茶、品茗的内涵与形式。如果说泡茶师,那是特别强调泡茶的技艺。如果说茶道艺术家,那是在泡茶、奉茶、品茗间注入更多的艺术成分。如果说茶汤,那就专指茶道艺术家最终完成的那杯茶。

上面所说的茶文化各各范畴,不但要以茶为核心,还有一个共同的基础,那就是要把茶泡好。这句话大家或许不容易理解,但是大家想想,如果茶泡得不好喝,大家不喜欢喝茶,自始茶文化就不会形成,茶了不起只变成一种药物或营养品、食品添加剂。至于茶文化里的茶道、茶道艺术、泡茶师、茶道艺术家、茶汤,更是一层比一层更依赖〝泡好一壶茶〞。到了泡茶师、茶道艺术家、茶汤,几乎等同于〝泡好一壶茶〞。

泡好一壶茶有三个不同的层次,最起码的层次是泡得人们喜欢喝。有些茶是别人为了情面勉强喝的,有些茶是别人听说茶有益健康、茶是高雅饮品而喝的。第二个层次是泡得色香味都非常丰盛,别人端上手就被吸引住了。第三个层次是把茶性表现得很到位,诸如品种风味、地理环境、土壤特性、成长岁月,甚至适当冲泡器对该泡茶的影响、泡茶者个人对该泡茶的理解与感情。谈到茶文化、茶道,最少要做到第一个层次,谈到茶道艺术、泡茶师,最少要做到第二个层次,谈到茶道艺术家、茶汤作品,就得做到第三个层次。

泡好一壶茶包括把身体弄干净、把手洗干净、选配适当材质的壶盅杯等用具、处理好要用的水、将茶看个仔细、将心情平静下来。这些都是泡好一壶茶应有的基本素养,不论是茶的爱好者还是茶文化工作者,不论是泡茶师还是茶道艺术家,平时都要有这些积累,而且随着自我期许的增高逐步要求得精致。

泡好一壶茶是喝茶人、茶文化工作者、茶人应有的信念,因为一切茶的大道理都要以它为起点,而且起点有多高才能谈多高的道理。这个信念是什么呢?就是只要泡茶就非得要把茶泡好不可。就像现场挥毫的书法家或画家害怕一下手就失败,就像音乐家害怕一上台没能把曲子弹好唱好一样。但是现阶段的茶者缺乏这种警觉,为什么呢?因为我们没有把茶道或茶道艺术的〝呈现着力点〞放在茶汤上,我们依赖着太多茶席桌布、插花、音乐、服饰、肢体等来分担茶道表现的效果(然现场挥毫者、台上的音乐家没有这些依赖)。如果大家的眼睛与注意力都放在泡茶者的泡茶、奉茶、茶汤上,我们就不得不随时担心是否把茶泡好了。

泡好一壶茶的信念还不只是技能的,还是态度的。茶没泡好怎能端出去给别人喝?自己也不能喝这样的茶。厨师也懂得这个道理,炒得太咸的菜、没炖好的肉是不可以端出去给客人吃的,自己也不能吃这样的菜。

泡好一壶茶的信念还包括泡的是好茶。做得不到位的茶、做得不卫生的茶不可以泡给别人喝,也不可以泡给自己喝,唯有这样,茶文化才有益于人们的身心。我们也要以这样的信念导使人们做出好茶、做出合乎卫生安全的茶。(2013.01.11)

 

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茶艺与才艺-20130410周三小方块-蔡荣章

茶艺与才艺

蔡荣章

20130410周三小方块WEDNESDAY TEA CORNER

现在所说的茶艺是指泡茶技艺,茶艺在茶文化的领域里是属于泡茶的部分。将泡茶说成茶艺的人是有意将泡茶提升到艺术层面的,但是实施这三十年来(从1980年茶文化复兴开始算起),很多人并没有抓住茶艺的主体,而与才艺有了混淆。

我们看到有些单位举办茶艺比赛時会安排选手做些才艺表演,如自选唱歌、跳舞或弹琴,认为多才多艺是加分的项目。我们还发现很多人一开始学习泡茶就非常热衷于茶席设计,到处收购桌巾、茶具、摆饰,学习插花、焚香,学习优美的泡茶动作。

多才多艺可以让自己活得多姿多彩,但不是艺术学科里所讲求的,艺术要求专精,要求善用自己的媒体。如文学家要善用文字描写太阳西下的美,而不能说〝美得无法用文字形容,请看下面的这幅照片。〞茶道艺术应用的媒体是泡茶与奉茶的动作及泡成的茶汤,不能说了一大堆茶禅一味与和谐之饮的道理就成就了茶艺,摆设了精美又富创意的茶席、做好了优美的泡茶动作就说完成了茶道的艺术。

茶艺也好,或说是茶道艺术,它的最终作品是茶汤。虽然我们也可以将泡茶与奉茶的动作与茶汤绑在一起当作茶艺的主体,但最核心的价值还是在茶汤。难道去掉了茶汤,光是泡茶、奉茶就可以算是茶艺了吗?我们看到有些单位在茶艺培训時不给茶叶,只是用白水倒来倒去,训练动作而已。

这样的观念还可以从绘画艺术中获得:我们看到一位画家,精心布置了画室,仔细摆设极为专业的画架,一管管名牌的油画颜料排列有序,画笔一根根都像上了膛的枪枝,自己穿好了围兜戴上了鸭嘴帽,坐上画架旁开始作画。看到这里,有些人认为看够了,接下来还不就是画一张他习惯的抽象画,退下不再观赏了,有些人耐心地看下去。画家习惯性地草草画了一张似曾相识的作品结束了。就先行退下的观众而言,前半段好像比后半段的作画有看头,就继续观看的人而言,觉得绘画艺术不应该如此,前半段的准备虽然也可以与一笔笔作画的过程视为绘画艺术的一部分,但我们重视的应该是画家完成后那幅画的质量。

最近有个2013年职业院校技能大赛高职组“中华茶艺技能”竞赛考核内容是这样的:茶艺表演占总成绩80%,茶艺理论占总成绩20%。茶艺表演的成绩评判标准为 a.茶艺演示:分值35分(占44%),b.茶汤质量:分值12分(占15%),c.仪容仪表、礼仪:分值10分(占12.5%),d.茶席布置:分值10分(占12.5%),e.茶艺创意:分值10分(占12.5%),f.时间掌控:分值3分(占3.5%)。从这样的评比设计可看出目前很多人的观念还是将泡茶奉茶的动作视为茶艺的重心,茶汤泡得好不好只占15%的重要性。

如果我们说一幅画在绘画艺术里只占15%的重要性,其他要放在画画的过程、画家的风采、画室的布置、绘画手法的创新上,艺术界不知道要怎么说我们。

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品茗馆茶谱的分类及定价-20130408周一喝茶慢-许玉莲

品茗馆茶谱的分类及定价

许玉莲

20130408周一喝茶慢MONDAY SLOW TEA

每家品茗馆都有必要建立自己的茶谱,如果没有茶谱,消费者要怎么点茶呢?那是方便消费者了解经营特色以及提供什么茶的推介册子,口头相传或随机应变地供应茶品也无不可,但拥有稳定的茶谱较能贯彻始终品茗馆提出的风格,消费者也相对容易投入情感而追随。它还不止于这个作用,茶谱更是泡茶师向大众宣示他喝茶主张的一种方式,如泡茶师对茶叶的思考以及擅长,采何种态度取舍,都可以成为品茗馆之“秘密武器”令消费者建立信心。消费者可凭茶谱就阅读得出泡茶师是否有花心思,或他们所下的苦功、用心之处是否到位。

茶谱应包括什么内容?以下如:选用什么茶、要如何泡如何喝、茶食是怎样的搭配、采用何种茶具、哪位泡茶师掌席、茶会时间多长等都可列入成为基本元素。茶谱,是为喝茶者很好地规划出来的一个小型茶会的进行方程式,好比如琴师有了琴谱,他就可以依着琴谱奏出动人音乐这样子。我们鼓励泡茶师有个性地开自己想要的品茗馆,找一些喜欢喝的好茶,将之冲泡出来与人们分享,茶谱可按照泡茶师的理想去选茶以及创作茶汤作品,没有必要规定须提供所谓的四大类、六大类或八大类茶才能做茶谱。

经营或行销上述茶谱有几种类别可参考:一.就时间长短来制作:将茶谱分成四十分钟与一百分钟两类,消费者依需要而选择,任何一种茶都可以放进来这里,泡茶师只需调整茶法。我们主张每一场品茗会都应在二小时以内结束,再高兴也无需延长,不是说举办品茗会的时间越长就代表你越懂茶越爱茶的,喜欢茶的人要在泡茶喝茶时投入、专注才有效。时间太长的茶会,未免影响生活其他事情,也显得喝茶者有点懒散和贪婪。

四十分钟茶谱适合人们隔一、两天就进来一次,做完工作后、晚餐散步经过、或不为什么就愉快地品几道茶,心满意足后再继续生活。一百分钟茶谱适合五人以上的品茗。只有二、三人也可以要一百分钟吗?当然可以,那是预备要品赏得更深入的了。

二.就消费者茶龄来制作:将茶谱分成刚学喝茶的单纯型、喝茶经有相当感官培训的复合型、专喝独特品项的粉丝型。茶龄浅的比较喜欢清香口味,可供应绿茶、高山乌龙茶等。喝茶有经验者接受多方面尝试,可提供各种岩茶、凤凰单丛、普洱等。粉丝型茶谱,有两个方法去做,泡茶师自己拥有什么拿手绝活,先设计了茶谱再说,慢慢找出它的粉丝。另一做法,先了解潜在的消费者属于哪类粉丝,为他们找出爱喝的茶。

三.就消费者需求来制作:将茶谱分成专为品茗而来的品茗型,与为其他目的:浪漫、休闲、优雅、茶文化而来的文化型。品茗型茶谱可以找几种属于品茗馆的招牌茶(可能是单一种类或几个种类)。文化型茶谱务必要达到让大众感觉有茶陪伴的时光是那么幸福、自在;不管哪个茶都可放进来,泡茶师需做到的是整体人、茶、物、地的溶合。

四.就茶性来制作:如专做普洱茶的,有丰富的题材可发挥,将茶谱分成渥堆的与青的、紧压茶与散茶、新普洱与存放普洱、仓存技术普洱等,那就成为一家专门喝普洱的品茗馆了。还有武夷岩茶、台湾乌龙茶等都能这么做。

品茗馆拥有了茶谱,已经知道要卖什么茶(汤),就可开始定价格。怎样收费视乎二个关键要素,一.先界定本身的品茗馆在市场上属于那种消费级数,如开馆地点在何地、店铺规模有多大小、专业泡茶师是哪位、环境设备达到什么水准、泡茶器具有何种规格等,这些基本条件将决定品茗馆的基本消费等级,也即常态性定价,例如属A级-平均客单价为三百元,B级-平均客单价为二百元,C级-平均客单价为一百元以此类推。

第二个进一步决定茶谱收费的因素是:茶谱价格因经营者对该茶拥有特殊理念与把握来定价,像一些稀有品种的茶品、特别拿手供赏析的老茶品以及邀得著名茶道艺术家掌席创作茶汤作品等,皆可创造一种特殊价值的价格,世俗的价格观念在这种时刻就用不上,比如原本属于C级的品茗馆,今祭出珍藏美茶,由馆内优等泡茶师呈现茶汤作品,价格也许就调整得比平常高好几倍。比如市场上的六堡茶都便宜,只有我们家特别贵,因为我们清楚我们的六堡茶特别好。比如市场上的红茶忽然间喊得很高价,但我们家仍维持旧有定价,那是因为我们认为我们家的红茶不值那么贵。这些都是溶入品茗馆经营者的生活态度与价值观念去考虑的定价法。

茶谱定价应以每位来客人头作为计算单位,比如A茶一百元,一位客人是一百元,来十位客人同开一席也是一百元一位即一千元。品茗馆要预先评估好每一位客人应享用多少份量的茶汤,而且这样子的汤量需维持怎样的浓度,然后根据这浓度设计茶法,决定茶叶放多少、茶具用多大、泡几道及要换几次茶叶等问题。假设一人可享有汤量三百cc,十人即需要冲泡出三千cc同等品质的汤量给客人。

 

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品茗馆之龙井-许玉莲

品茗馆之龙井

许玉莲.文/摄影

现代茶思想龙井 龙井外形扁平,挺秀的样子好神气,似剑状,有些呈弧度的似镰刀微微弯,很有线条美,将龙井拨出时,茶叶会自自然然地滑滑地向四面八方倾泻,滑成一座小山的样子。

现代茶思想龙井

茶干色泽黄中带绿,整体均匀;闻茶干,有清新的芽香,香气会迅速散播在空气里。吃茶干,小小一片含在嘴里,其芽香味可充满整个口腔,

冲泡时的水气,可捕抓到一丝丝从这股芽香挥发出来的青青草原气息。

现代茶思想龙井

 

现代茶思想龙井

其茶汤水柔软,水色是嫩嫩的淡淡的鹅毛黄,汤水香气清纯。水面会有微量的细细茸毛,那是属于嫩芽头的。

茶汤入口滋味醇厚,有花蜜香味在上颚,喉底回甘,留有一种乳香味在嘴里,似咀嚼坚果或瓜子时,到最后会有一丝乳香的感觉,让人恋念。

现代茶思想龙井

泡过的芽头体态彷如刚采下的新鲜叶子,有弹性,吃茶渣,带植物的清爽苦味。

现代茶思想龙井

现代茶思想龙井

上图:看龙井茶叶的大小。(上排:cm、下排:inch)

 

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品茗馆之碧螺春-许玉莲

品茗馆之碧螺春

许玉莲.文/摄影

现代茶思想碧螺春

碧螺春拥有非常美丽的体态,一根一根卷曲得细细紧紧、绰约多姿,似美娇娘。其墨绿色的茶条被一片银白茸毛披覆着,银绿银绿相映,似一团云雾环绕着青山的景色。

现代茶思想碧螺春

先用手指头点一些毫毛,放在舌头上尝味,似有若无地带些鲜毫香。捏一根上手,其茶体好坚挺;茶条直接放进嘴里咀嚼,咬了一会儿滋味才溢出,浓郁。

嗅闻茶干香气,有一股植物的清雅香。可双手握抱着茶荷供至鼻子前,藉着手与人体的体温来提香,这时香气会比较集中。

现代茶思想碧螺春

现代茶思想碧螺春

茶叶浸水茸毛脱落而漂浮在茶汤的水面,毛毛的、雾气幽幽的样子,似早春。这些茸毛不要使用过滤网把它隔掉,不要嫌它以为是灰尘,茸毛是长在碧螺春嫩芽心里头的,一起品饮茶味将更明显。喝多几道,茶汤逐渐清澈,味道也会渐淡。

现代茶思想碧螺春

现代茶思想碧螺春

其汤色嫩绿,晶莹可爱;茶汤含在嘴里品啜,其香味不是「攻击型」马上就能感受到,它慢慢慢慢扩散和深入整个口腔,鲜浓,滋味绵长;喉底与上颚之间盘旋着一股清鲜、浓厚毫香,久久仍然不散,透心凉。

现代茶思想碧螺春

毫香,是一种比龙井的芽香更娇嫩的抽芽香,似清晨在花园里,所有植物的叶子、花朵、果子都蠢蠢欲动而并发出的生命气息。

现代茶思想碧螺春欣赏茶底,完整无暇的叶心显露,可爱极了。舍不得,还可放进嘴里细细咬。碧螺春茶味细腻堪慢品,各个状况的外形也可值得一一观赏。

现代茶思想碧螺春茶渣

上图:看碧螺春茶叶的大小。

 

  (2207)

我们期待怎样的茶艺师证照-20130403周三小方块-蔡荣章

我们期待怎样的茶艺师证照

蔡荣章

20130403周三小方块WEDNESDAY TEA CORNER

我要考茶艺师证照吗?

这要看您的需要,如果您想在中国茶界找一份工作,有这样一张证书是多少有点帮助的,如果不是为求职而只是兴趣于泡茶,倒可不必。

为什么说在中国找一份茶界工作有这样一张证书是多少有点帮助,而不是绝对肯定的答案呢?

茶艺师证照虽然是一种职业证照,但目前在中国还没有强制性要求,所以茶行、茶艺馆没有说是无具备茶艺师资格的从业人员不得经营。当然,如果茶企业招聘员工时,握有一张茶艺师证书的人是会被视为多一份资历的。

为什么说如果不是为求职而只是兴趣于泡茶,倒可不必?

因为茶艺师证照目前尚未显示泡茶能力证明的功效,原来设计时也没往这方面设想。原来茶艺师证照的职能要求仅偏向于为客人准备好泡茶的一切或是从事茶艺表演与解说。

如果从检测的内容来修正,是不是可以让茶艺师证照变得具有泡茶能力证明的功效?

可以的,只要在检测的时候加重将茶汤泡得精准的项目,就可以让茶艺师证照变得具有泡茶能力证明的功效。近来茶行、茶艺馆开始重视员工泡茶的能力,有泡茶师为客人泡茶的品茗馆也逐渐兴起,加重将茶汤泡得精准的茶艺师证照更可符合新时代的需要。

近来有些海外人士到中国参加茶艺师的考照,是不是意味着这些人对中国茶艺师证照的重视?

中国茶艺师证照由官方发给,这点是让大众觉得有信心的,但是举办考试的地点由各地不同层级的单位执行,试题由各省自行制订,这些试点对发证的态度与松紧程度相去颇大。应考员经历了考试的内容后,发现与他们想象的茶艺业内涵与茶道生活有一段距离。这是中国茶艺师证照应调整检测方法与方向的地方。

茶艺师证照的检测内容是不是也影响业界与人们在茶文化上的走向?

是的,大众会以为茶艺师证照的检测内容就是茶艺业应该的经营内容,也就是拟加入该行业的人应学习的功课。结果这就影响了业界与人们在茶文化上的走向。

某行业的职业证照或某学术领域的资格证书所检测的内容应该就是该行业、该学术领域的重心。一般人对某行业、某学术领域应有的走向不都是先知先觉的,如果其检测的内容有所偏差或与時代脱节,就会影响该行业、该学术领域的发展。同样的道理,有识之士也可以利用检测的内容引导某行业或某学术领域的前进方向。

现今的茶业正需要从茶叶市场拓展到茶汤市场,茶汤市场需要具备高度泡茶能力的人才,我们希望中国茶艺师证照能加重泡茶能力的检测,协助茶业走进茶汤市场的领域。现今的茶艺馆已为数不多,取得这样的茶艺师证照也是徒然,若能调整检测的方向而带动茶汤市场的兴起,茶艺师证照才有广阔的用武之地。

 

  (2141)

泡茶小助手茶签茶匙-许玉莲

泡茶小助手茶签茶匙

许玉莲

20130205马来西亚《光明日报》每周“茶人的第三隻眼”专栏

茶签是一支约十六cm长的针状竹制物,也有用名贵花梨木或沉香木做的,早期它主要被泡茶者拿来通壶嘴,因出汤时茶叶常常堵住在「壶流」,要把茶签伸进壶嘴将茶叶「推」下去,茶水才可流出。后期壶里的出水孔大多做成网状和球状以阻挡茶叶入「流」,很多不再需要茶签。

但茶签有另一重要用处:可当作泡茶者的手指来使唤,这样才不会将茶叶折断,要将茶荷里的茶叶拨入茶壶,用茶签轻轻划一下足矣,手指头的大小不顺,力度太强。要从茶罐倒茶叶入茶荷,茶签的长度也可帮忙进入罐内「邀」茶叶出来。茶叶在茶荷被观赏时,要更清楚看茶叶的细节部位,可用茶签翻动茶叶指出要点。

茶签有两种设计,一种就单一只有针状造型,叫茶签。第二种茶签有一物二用功能,它另一头的形状像「匙」,叫做茶匙,表示这件器物除了茶签可帮忙拨茶叶,也可用茶匙部位从茶壶内把茶渣「请」出来观赏。喝完茶后即刻用手指往壶里挖掏茶渣太粗鲁,要用茶匙,况且那样做也太烫手了。像这种双重功能的茶器,当要用那一头时就以该部位名称呼之。

如果一头有茶签一头有茶匙,泡茶者就务必让它们分工,做「干燥的工作」拿茶叶是茶签,做「潮湿的工作」挖茶渣是茶匙,不可混乱,这是对茶叶的「干、湿」,「未用、已用」的留意与尊重,对茶具的尊重,对专业的尊重,对人的尊重。如果泡茶时凡事只是虚应故事而已,茶道就无法产生感受力了。

茶匙也有只是单一匙状造型而已,不与茶签同在,这时针状的造型会变成直平状或斜平状的刀片形,此部位要当作茶签(像手指这样拨茶叶)来用是没有问题的。要单独准备一支茶签,一支茶匙也可以。这种造型的茶匙也被称为「茶杓」,泡饮抹茶时可用于从茶罐掏拿茶粉。

有人见到一些可爱的茶树枯枝,捡回家弄干净当茶签用,那是一种单纯的趣味,偶尔为之无不可,但不代表每一样茶具都要这样「捡破烂」回家才显泡茶意义。有人规定凡泡茶者必须自己亲手制作茶签、茶匙、茶荷等竹器,否则就断定他是一个不懂泡茶之人。没有必要如此偏执,艺术的发展也需要分工。

 

  (2223)

有些茶具可以不要-许玉莲

有些茶具可以不要

许玉莲

20130129马来西亚《光明日报》每周“茶人的第三隻眼”专栏

泡茶时需要的一些小助手如:茶签、茶匙和茶巾,虽然少了它们不会影响太大,但请它们来帮忙的确轻松好多。有人还用上其他如茶夹、茶则、茶漏、滤网等,那又不必太繁琐,选择使用何样工具,什么时候应该用,都必须在一个适可而止的界限。

本篇先谈后面那几样,如茶则不实用,可以承载茶叶的凹位太浅,只适合放碎形、扁平形和颗粒形茶叶,其他稍微蓬松形、长条形茶叶放不了几条,要拿很多次才足够泡茶量。茶叶放在里面,要递传欣赏茶叶很难握拿,茶叶容易「跌」出来。它虽适合放碎形、扁平形和颗粒形茶叶,但这几种茶叶只要微微倾斜茶罐就会直接「滑」下入茶荷,不再需要茶则帮忙,另外紧压茶无论是剥开之前、后,直接放入茶荷即可,茶则没用。

茶漏是没有「用心」的泡茶者才觉得有需要之物,拨茶入壶避免茶叶漏出壶外,泡茶者眼神需跟着手势走,双手动作要稳定,一下一下「拨」的动作要对准壶口要知道力度,如此茶叶肯定进入壶内,否则茶漏也帮不上忙。

滤网要用的话,有必要找些质地佳的,不锈钢、瓷、铜的材料不错,其他会感染味道的劣质材料不可用,会破坏茶味道,尤其那一张「网」如用布料,要用「不吸味」的。滤网网目不可过大或过小,原本属于细碎状的茶叶应该装入茶包再泡饮,滤网是解决不了的。茶汤偶尔有些茶细末不要紧,别忙着「除而快之」。用滤网的心态:不可将茶细末当垃圾。

茶夹多余,因为拿茶杯可以直接用手,又何必多此一举用夹子提取茶杯。有说泡茶者的手肮脏,不可触及喝茶者的茶杯,这种想法是对茶文化还没建立好尊重与信任,事实上泡茶者本身以及泡茶用具必须达到卫生干净的程度才可进入茶席泡茶。泡茶者要获得喝茶者的绝对信心,泡茶者就需要洞察自己的行为是否在日常也有养成良好卫生的习惯,头发衣服是否天天替换清洗,有够留意茶叶的存在吗,有够尊重喝茶的人吗,有感受到喝茶的美好掌握到赏茶的喜悦,有把这些经验都化成专业的能力吗,如果对人对物毫不在意、不够尊重,就会走上「错误加入许多不必要茶具」之路。

 

  (1929)

無我茶會Sans Self Tea Gathering-Chapter 6- Pre-event Preparation for Sans Self Tea Gathering -蔡荣章Rong-tsang Tsai

《無我茶會Sans Self Tea Gathering 180條》

蔡荣章著Author:Rong-tsang Tsai

ISBN 978-957-9690-08-9,“无我茶会Sans Self Tea Gathering 180” ,First edition: 1999.9, Second edition: 2010.9,《无我茶会180条》,1999.9第一版,2010.9第二版,台北陆羽茶艺股份有限公司.2012.05.20修订版.-English Translator : Katherine Yip,英语翻译:叶德明.

Chapter 6 Pre-event Preparation for Sans Self Tea Gathering

53 ‘Simplicity and Modesty’: the principle behind the use of tea ware for Sans Self Tea Gathering.

A Sans Self Tea Gathering is to be carried out in as simple a manner as possible; the same goes with personal tea ware for the occasion – one can look to ‘travel tea ware’ as a guide. Going simple will help significantly cut down on time spent preparing, using and packing tea ware; meanwhile, time saved will enable us to experience and enjoy the atmosphere and ambience of the tea gathering.

Precious tea ware is best kept at home. Participants are encouraged to bring along practical pieces. Though the rare fines will usually make quite an impression during the ‘tea ware appreciation and networking’ session, this will draw comparison as participants may rack their brains trying to determine which ones to bring to catch attention. They would be so worried about their precious tea service throughout the event that they will miss what is essentially an enjoyable experience. More often than not, simplicity could be the best policy in life — fame, wealth, possession, and ways and means alike.

When we mentioned ‘precious’, we refer to the yardstick for participants in general. However, for those who often bring such tea ware along and find no problem with this, we will not name-tagged such ‘unsuitable’.

54. The basic ware for Sans Self Tea Gathering

For a gathering with floor seats, bring along ‘seating cushion’. As everyone has to brew tea, ‘teapot’ or ‘tea bowl’ for whisking matcha is essential, so are ‘teacups’. The number of teacups would depend on what is listed in the ‘Notification’.  If teapot is used, bring along a ‘tea pitcher’ for distributing tea; even if tea is evenly poured into the cups from the pot for the first brewing, it will not be easy to attain the same level of evenness in strength for subsequent brews. Pour tea into the pitcher first before serving,  because the teacups would have been offered to different fellow tea drinkers – if we pour tea directly from the teapot into individual teacups, the tea infusion served first will be weaker than that served later; and , going back and forth to ensure even strength is too much of a hassle. A ‘tea serving tray’ will come in handy for serving tea from the tea pitcher or tea bowl (in the case of whisking matcha).

For convenience’s sake, put the right amount of tealeaves into the teapot beforehand, if you prepare to use one. This saves the trouble of bringing along the ‘tea caddy’. However, if matcha is to be served, the ‘tea caddy’ is a must, so are the ‘tea scoop’ for scooping out the tea powder and ‘tea whisk’ for whipping up the matcha.

Hot water is a must for both brewed and whisked teas.  Bring along a thermal flask with boiled water of the required temperature. As duration for brewing is crucial, a ‘timer’ with seconds display or a watch is essential to help keep track of time. A ‘tea towel’ will help catch any drip in the course of tea brewing or serving; and it can be used to wipe the used cups when we are packing after the tea gathering.

Lay a piece of ‘tea brewing cloth’ on the floor (or on the table, if applicable). Place the tea ware on the cloth. Make sure there is enough space at the outer edge for the others to offer tea to you. You may use either the cloth for wrapping the tea ware or a dedicated ‘pot wrapping cloth’ for this purpose.

Put the tea ware into your ‘carrying bag’, and you are ready to attend the Sans Self Tea Gathering.

无我茶会小壶茶法茶具

 

无我茶会抹茶法茶具

55. Some practical tips about the ‘Tea Ware’ for Sans Self Tea Gathering

There should be a strainer at the base of the teapot’s spout to prevent tealeaves from blocking the flow of tea. The mesh should be very fine to catch even the very tiny residue. Otherwise, residue with some tea infusion may be left at the bottom of the teacups, affecting not just the water temperature, but making it difficult to wipe dry the teacups afterwards. A ‘strainer’ incorporated at the opening of the tea pitcher could complement the straining function of the teapot. Tea pitchers are used to distribute tea infusion into individual teacups. It is important that these pitchers have ‘anti-dripping’ design; otherwise, tea infusion may spill and wet the brewing area of fellow participants. (If a rug is used at the brewing area, quickly use the tea towel or tissue paper to absorb the tea infusion to avoid leaving any stain which could be hard to remove)

The size of the teapots and tea pitchers should be considered in relation to the number of cups. Avoid using teacups with a capacity of more than 50cc. Tea infusion should only fill 4/5 of the cups because each participant will be served a few rounds. Large teacups would require large teapots/tea pitchers as well as water flasks, which could be inconvenient when being carried around.  Use weightier teacups.  Do not use delicate teacups such as the eggshell porcelain for outdoor tea gatherings to avoid spillage in a sudden draft.  Fluted-shape teacups with small base are not advisable, as they may spill with a quick gust of air or being carried around on the tray

The serving tray should be just big enough for the cups. Also, avoid trays with very slippery surface to eliminate the risk of spillage when the cups are being carried around.

56. How is the best way for tea ware to travel?

Each item for the Sans Self Tea Gathering has to be packed in a damage-free manner.  Teapots, tea pitchers or tea bowls could be wrapped carefully with a ‘wrapping cloth’. Tea cups, be they stacked on top of each other, bundled up or ‘hooked’ onto the teapot and be wrapped together, must have ‘cup covers’ for extra protection; otherwise, they may be damaged by pressure. The thermal flask must be positioned upright and wobble-free, and not knocking against other tea ware in the carrying bag.

Organize the carrying bag into a few parts: one for the thermal flask; one for major tea ware such as teapot, tea pitcher and teacups; one for the tea serving tray, tea towel and timer; one for the seating mat; and one for personal items such as camera. This way, packing will be a lot easier. If possible, use a shoulder bag for ease of movement and flexibility.

When tea ware has to be transported in your checked-in baggage for an overseas Sans Self Tea Gathering, protect each item with personal clothing in a hard-case luggage.  If in doubt, bring them along in your hand luggage.

无我茶会一壶二杯包紮法

 

无我茶会一盅二杯包紮法

57. Things to note about the protective/wrapping materials for the tea ware

Apart from safety, protective/wrapping materials for the tea ware must also be considered in terms of hygiene, odour and appearance. ‘Hygiene’ means that the materials and printing on it must be pollution-free and easy to wash.  Materials with ‘odour’ will stay on the tea ware or be absorbed by the tealeaves; hence, it is important to choose odour-free materials.  ‘Appearance’ refers to the fact that the wrapping and unwrapping of the tea ware is a part of the ‘tea-brewing’ experience – ease of use and visual appeal will affect the mood of the participants. You may use the original commercial packaging or towels at home. While these will save you the worries about hygiene and odour, they may not be stylistically refined enough.

58. Which ‘tea’ should I bring?

This would cover the type and grade of tealeaves. ‘The type’ would depend on what is stated in the ‘Notification’ issued by the organizer; but the principle is to welcome ‘all types of tea’ or teas in a broad category. ‘The grade‘would be largely a personal choice, as long as it does not have an unpleasant smell or taste, and is not something you don’t like, because it would go against the aspiration of Sans Self Tea Gathering to encourage us to ‘accept and appreciate teas of all kinds’.

On what occasions would the organizer require a specific category of tea be used? For example, if a Sans Self Tea Gathering is planned for early spring to remind us of the arrival of the season, the Notification may make it clear that green tea is preferred; however, there will not be any restriction on the types. As for a memorial tea gathering, the organizer may request participants to bring along a certain type of tea because of its relationship with the person to be honoured.

59. How should be ‘tea’ be carried? (When should we put tealeaves into the teapot?)

With the exception of ‘powdered tea’, tealeaves can be added into the teapot before leaving home.  In the spirit of ‘simplicity and frugality’ of the Sans Self Tea Gathering, there is no need to bring along the tea caddy. Some of us may be worried about the quality of the tealeaves transported this way. Fret not. This is acceptable on the day itself, provided that the teapot is dry and there is no distinct odour or off-smell in the carrying bag. For tea gathering to take place the following day, get ready a tea caddy and leave it in the luggage. Put tealeaves into the teapot right before you leave for the tea gathering the next day.

Powdered tea has to be whisked in the tea bowls, and there is no way it can be placed in the bowls and be carried to the venue. It is, therefore, necessary to bring along a separate powdered tea container.

60. How to prepare the tea ware if two types of tea are to be brewed?

In the spirit of ‘simplicity and frugality’ advocated by the Sans Self Tea Gathering, we will not think along the line of ‘discarding the residue > rinse > and then put in another type of tealeaves’ when the organizer requests two teas be brewed. Instead, prepare an extra teapot, and pack another tea separately. The same set of teacups will be used.

Normally, such requests would be made for a gathering that lasts longer, or at a venue that is conducive for staying longer, or of long missed friends. There may be an intermission, or some other activities in between for the first and second situations mentioned above.

61. Preparing water for brewing and the choice of thermal flask

One of the rules of a Sans Self Tea Gathering is ‘to be self-equipped without expecting anything from the organizer’.  As such, each participant will have to bring along water for brewing. Given the improved temperature retention technology nowadays, the slight temperature drop in the flask will not affect the brew. However, if the water is kept in the flask longer than half a day, it is necessary to add hot water. The best time and place to do so is during meal break at the eatery you dine in.

Decide water temperature according to the type of tea you are going to brew. Make it 3°C to 5°C higher than required to provision for temperature drop on the way. Furthermore, the basic way of brewing adopted by the Sans Self Tea Gathering requires no pot warming. Use hot water to rinse the thermal flask before adding hot water to it will help eliminate heat loss. If the outside of the flask feels hot after hot water is poured in, insulation is inefficient and it is time to change the flask.

Opt for travel-size instead of household flasks. The size of thermal flask would depend on the number of cups to be served and rounds of brewing. Choose flasks made of impact-resistant and unbreakable materials, and look for one-push open button design – not only is this more convenient than the stopper type for pouring water out, you will not end up having a big splash in case the flask topples.

62. Sitting posture at a Sans Self Tea Gathering

Unless in the rare occasion where chairs and tables are made available, Sans Self Tea Gathering are normally held with participants sitting and brewing on the floor. How then should participants sit?  One can sit with parallel legs and bent knees (as in kneeling), with crossed legs and bent legs, or in a half-lotus position. We encourage kneel-sitting because it is more elegant and makes it easier for the participants to rise and serve tea. However, it would need a bit of practising for the inexperienced. Try gradually lengthen the time as you practise. Meanwhile, small collapsible chairs are allowed for participants with knee problem which do not allow them to sit on the floor.

Floor seating encourages closer interaction apart from the fact that there are no chairs and tables blocking the way. This goes with family members brewing tea together. What’s more, sitting on the floor allows you to feel the earth beneath you, giving rise to the feeling of harmony between man and land.

63. Some practical tips about the seating mat

Seating mats are essential since Sans Self Tea Gathering supports the idea of floor seating. In an outdoor setting, there will be small stones on the ground, so it is good to have the seating mat made of stretchable and durable materials; loose, spongy ones are not suitable.

Considering that Sans Self Tea Gatherings are organized in different locations, it is best to use tea ware that travels well. By the same token, seating mat has to be easy to carry. Consider seating mats that can be folded. A simple DIY version goes like this: Get a piece of dense sponge. Make a fabric cover slightly larger than the sponge and sew to divide it into four compartments. Cut the sponge into four squares of equal size. Insert a cut piece of sponge into a compartment and sew up. This way, you will have a seating mat that can be folded one-fourth of the size it opens up. Make sure the mat, when opens up, is large enough for you to be seated. If you are going to kneel-sit, the length of the mat should be slightly more than the distance between your knee and toes when seated. The width should be slightly more than that of the body when seated.

64. What should we bring along in addition, if it rains before the tea gathering or the ground is sandy/muddy?

Bring along a lightweight, water-proof cloth if the ground is wet or muddy. Lay it on the ground and put the seating mat and tea ware on top of it. This should take away the worries.

Why lightweight cloth, you may ask? We don’t suggest using plastic sheets because they are mostly lacking in visual appeal and are too slippery to stay in place, unless you can find some nice ones with a ‘cloth’ feel. By comparison, water-proof fabric looks more appealing. Lightweight material is easy to bring along and clean afterwards. This cloth should cover the area of the seating mat and brewing area; and yet, it should not be so big that it exceeds the area allocated by the organizer and may cause a slip or trip.

65. Attire and shoes for Sans Self Tea Gathering

This would depend on the occasion – formal gatherings require proper attire; for occasions among friends, casual clothing is fine. Whichever the case, the clothes you wear must allow you to be seated and brew tea with ease. Neckties and accessories such as long necklaces should be secured in place to avoid it finding its way into the tea infusion or hitting the tea ware.

Should the venue require participants to remove their shoes throughout the event, pay attention to the colour and thickness of the socks/stockings – a pair of very transparent silk stocking would create the impression of one being bare-footed.

For venue that does not require participants to take off their shoes throughout the event, choose shoes that can be ‘put on’ and ‘taken off’ easily. It will be inconvenient, not to say unbecoming, if you have to tie or untie your shoelaces or pulling your shoes strenuously on or off each time you get back to your seat or rise to offer tea.

66. What kind of preparation is required for a tea gathering that calls for tea time snacks?

If tea time snacks are to be shared during the tea gathering, participants have to prepare both the snacks and serving utensils. As the name suggests, these snacks are to be taken with tea. A small quantity will serve the purpose, since each participant will get to enjoy snacks brought along by several fellow participants. The flavour of these snacks should harmonize with that of the tea – avoid snacks that are too strong, too salty, too spicy or too sour in taste. Equally inappropriate will be snacks containing parts that require us to spit out at the end or those that are too chewy, as these will cause inconvenience and create anxiety.   Bring along snacks that are easy to handle, preferably individually packed.

The number of servings should match that of cups to be served. For example, the Notification specifies four cups are to be served, then bring along four servings of snack. If the participants are expected to offer tea to onlookers, the Notification will specify the amount of extra snacks required.

We should also prepare utensils for serving snacks. Bring along two small dishes; alternatively, use two pieces of paper towel. One of these should be placed on the tea serving tray for the snacks you’ve brought along; the other at an appropriate spot at the tea brewing area for others to offer snacks to you. Remember to pack equipment such as bamboo knife, if required.

67. Example of tea brewing at a Sans Self Tea Gathering: Small teapot brewing

As mentioned, Sans Self Tea Gathering encourages the use of travel tea ware for fuss-free tea brewing.  There is, however, no restriction on the style and brewing method. The ‘small pot’ brewing which we are going to talk about and the ‘lidded-cup’ brewing and ‘powdered tea’ brewing which we will discuss later are but for reference only.

Take your seat, and lay the seating mat on the floor. Stand behind the rear end of the mat, take off your shoes, and sit on the mat. Place the carrying bag on your right. If the ground is wet or too sandy/muddy, lay the cloth liner first before laying your seating mat, aligning the rear end of both. If there is no cloth liner, shift your seat slightly to avoid the inconvenient surface, provided this does not affect the order and the overall arrangement of the seats.

Place the tea serving tray in front of the seating mat. Leave some space between the tray and the seating mat as the tea brewing area. Take out the tea ware. Say you have bundled two teacups with the teapot together, and the other two teacups with the tea pitcher (in the event that each participant is to bring along four teacups). Take out the bundle with teapot first, unwrap and place the teacups and teapot on the tea serving tray. Put the wrapping cloth and cup covers back in the bag. Then, take out the bundle with the pitcher, unwrap, and lay the wrapping cloth (which doubles up as tea cloth) between the seating mat and tea serving tray. Remove the teapot from the tray and put it on the tea cloth, then put the two cups from the second bundle on the tray. Arrange the four cups properly, and make sure the teapot and tea pitcher are at the centre of the tea cloth.

Leave some space at the front end of the tea cloth for others to place their cups when they offer tea to you. Leave some space at the rear end of the tea cloth as well, to accommodate the tea towel and timer (tea towel could be replaced by paper towel, and timer could be replaced by your watch). For special reasons such as space constraint or children participate in brewing, the tea serving tray could be positioned to the right of the tea cloth to make the tray more accessible. Shift the tea cloth a bit to the left.

Take out the tea towel and timer. Place them behind the teapot and tea pitcher. The thermal flask should be placed to the left of the tea cloth (In general, participant will use their right hand to hold the teapot, and pour the water using their left hand).

According to standard procedure, tealeaves would have been put into the teapot. When it is the scheduled time for brewing, pour an appropriate amount of hot water from the flask into the teapot, and then sit quietly while tracking the time.  Don’t be distracted; have your mind settled down and track your time by simply counting your breath. When it is about time, check your timer to ascertain timing and pour all the tea infusion into the tea pitcher. Then, pour tea from the pitcher into the teacups. Hold the tea serving tray with both hands and rise to offer tea. Leave the last cup of tea on your tray and return to your seat. Place the cup on your tea cloth.

When everyone has finished the first cup, you may start brewing a second time. Follow the same routine – track the time, sit down quietly and pour the tea into the cups. This time, put the pitcher and tea towel on the tea serving tray. Hold the tea serving tray with both hands and rise to offer tea. Pour tea from the pitcher into the cups you have already offered; use the tea towel to catch any drip. Return to your seat and pour a cup for yourself.

When it is time for packing, wipe the cups you have drunk from with the tea towel. Bring along the tea serving tray and collect the cups you have served others. Return to your seat and place your cup onto the tray as well.

Screw back the cover of the flask (during the gathering, it is not necessary to do so each time after you have poured hot water; just close the inner opening will do), put it back into the carrying bag, and then put back the tea towel and timer.  Put two of the cups onto the tea cloth, and move the teapot to the tray. Take out two cup covers from the bag and put them on the two cups. Use the tea cloth (which doubles up as a wrapping cloth) to wrap the tea pitcher and the two covered cups into a bundle, and put this back in the bag. Take out the other wrapping cloth and the remaining cup covers.  Pack the teacups and teapot carefully and put them back into the bag. Put back the tea tray. Finish by folding the seating mat and cloth liner and put them back.

68. Example of tea brewing at a Sans Self Tea Gathering: Lidded cup brewing

You may want to brew with a lidded cup. In this case, you would have packed the lidded cup, the tea pitcher and cups into three separate bundles (some may want to wrap equal number of cups separately with the lidded cup and pitcher, making two bundles). Begin by laying the seating mat.  Put the tea serving tray in place, and take out the bundle of ‘cups’. Unwrap and put them on the tray, two in a stack; keep some space free on the tray.  Then, take out the ‘tea pitcher’ and unwrap, leaving it temporarily on the tray. Finally, take out the ‘lidded cup’. Unwrap and lay the wrapping cloth on the floor as the tea cloth. Move the tea pitcher to the centre of the tea cloth, side by side with the lidded cup. Leave some space at the front end of the tea cloth for others to place their cups when they offer tea to you. Meanwhile, place the tea towel and timer at the rear end of the tea cloth.

Tealeaves would have been added to the lidded cup beforehand. Brew tea by pouring in hot water. Track the time for the desired strength. Take up the lidded cup and pour all the tea infusion into the tea pitcher. Then, pour tea from the pitcher into the teacups. Offer tea with the tea serving tray. From the second brewing onwards, offer tea with pitcher on the tray, and pour tea into the cups you have already offered.

At the end of the gathering, pack tea ware individually. Put them back into the carrying bag in the reverse order.

69. Example of tea brewing at a Sans Self Tea Gathering: Powdered Tea Brewing (and Drinking)

For powdered tea to be served as the Sans Self Tea Gathering, follow the ‘Whisked Powdered Tea for Small Cups’ format.  Powdered tea is whisked in the tea bowl before being poured into small cups to be served.  As far as preparation concerned, wrap teacups and tea bowl into the first bundle, the tea caddy of powdered tea the second, and the tea scoop and tea whisk the third.  Follow the standard procedure to lay the seating mat and tea serving tray. Take out the second and then the third bundles, unwrap and put the tea caddy of powered tea, tea scoop and tea whisk on the tray. Take out the first bundle, use the wrapping cloth as tea cloth and lay it on the floor. Place the tea bowl at the centre of the tea cloth, the tea caddy to its left, and the tea scoop and tea whisk to its right. The tea cups should be placed on the tray.

Add an appropriate amount of powdered tea to the tea bowl, add water and whisk. Hold the bowl and pour it into the cups (use a ‘spouted tea bowl’, i.e., a tea bowl with a serving spout). Offer tea to others with the teacups on the tray. From the second brewing onwards, whisk the tea and bring over the tea bowl for serving.

When it is time for packing, pour some hot water into the tea bowl. Swirl the water around for a while and then pour it into your own cup; this will help dislodge the tea powder residue in the cup. Take this as a ‘parting drink’ and finish it in one if not two cups.  Fellow tea drinkers may do the same – pour some hot water into the cup with powdered tea residue, swirl and drink before wiping the cup.

70. There is no pot warming or cup warming in the description of the methods above. Why?

As the simple approach of a Sans Self Tea Gathering  goes, the steps of putting in tealeaves, appreciating the appearance, taking in the aroma and warming the cups and others have been eliminated. Tealeaves are to be put into the teapot before leaving home.

Appreciating the appearance and taking in the aroma of the tealeaves would help tea brewers decide the brewing methods. Should the guests be invited to do the same, it will complicate the procedure on the one hand, and disturb brewers from making correct judgement on the other. One of the principles observed by a Sans Self Tea Gathering is “making an effort to brew well”. Tea brewers need to have thorough understanding of the tealeaves before brewing. They will judge the amount to be used by appreciating the appearance of the tealeaves. Meanwhile, brewing time becomes extremely important after two to three brewings, and one way to ensure sound judgement is by taking in the aroma. Pot warming helps prevent teapot from drawing too much heat from the water. To compensate for the omission of pot warming, just increase the water temperature when you are preparing the water, or slightly extend the duration of brewing.  Cup warming helps prevent tea infusion from cooling too fast. Considering the relatively short distance between participants, and the duration from the time tea is offered to the time it is consumed, the tea infusion would not have cooled significantly. As such, this step can be eliminated.

71. Lighting requirement for an evening Sans Self Tea Gathering

An evening Sans Self Tea Gathering reminds participants just how beautiful a night it is. Participants would have to bring along their own lighting device, which would have to comply with the following requirements:

a. It must be easy to carry, safe and hassle-free.  If the outing involves a flight journey, check if the fuel is allowed to be checked-in.

b. Bring along, or create your own lighting equipment. This will add colour and diversity to a wonderful evening event.

c. Pay attention to wind-proof design that keeps it out of draughts – this is important especially with candle or oil lamps.

d. Choose light that shines downwards. Make sure it lights up the tea ware, especially the tip of the spout to ensure you can see clearly the height of the stream of water being poured into the teapot.  Do not rely on hand-held lighting device (such as a torch); this may accidently points at the others when you put it down on the floor.

e. The lighting should last for an hour and a half, and above. Light up your area from the time of preparation – do not wait until you begin brewing. This is to make sure the ‘tea ware appreciation and networking’ session is bright enough for the participants.  For battery-operated device, bring a spare set for replacement.

72. What is to be achieved with a Sans Self Tea Gathering?

A Sans Self Tea Gathering enables participants to embrace the spirit of the Way of Tea, including an absence of hierarchy, no expectation of reciprocity, setting aside of personal preferences, and an effort to improve and progress. There are no facilitators or event directors, and silence is observed throughout the gathering to reveal the beauty of collective rhythm. The aim of the tea gathering is achieved if the above has been fulfilled.

Making new friends during the pre-event ‘tea ware appreciation and networking’ session or other post-event activities, and catching up with old friends at the gathering could be considered added values of Sans Self Tea Gathering.

Some participants may find it too much of a hassle to travel this far with tea ware on tow for just a few rounds of tea. There may even be a sense of loss if the gathering fails to bring out the characteristics of Sans Self Tea Gathering.

To enrich the experience, one may include post-event activities such as talk, music performance or hiking.

73. How to enjoy Sans Self Tea Gathering in a relaxed manner?

Avoid focusing too much on socializing, and make sure you prepare yourself well, as follows:

a. Familiarize yourself with the rules of Sans Self Tea Gathering. This way, you will not make mistakes that may spoil your mood.

b. Prepare all the necessary items and make sure they work properly. Avoid poorly-designed tea pitcher that drips, teapots with insufficient straining capacity, and seating mats that are too soft to cushion you comfortably against small stones – these will stop you from fully enjoying the experience.

c. Practice brewing beforehand.  Know how much water is needed for a certain number of cups, the required water temperature, and the way to brew a perfect cup. It will be too late to apologize if what you offer is far from being perfect.

d. Find a way to sit comfortably on the floor, and get used to it. This requires practice, whichever you are going to sit – numbness and pain will take away the pleasure you should be feeling at a Sans Self Tea Gathering.

74. Choose tea ware that travels well for Sans Self Tea Gathering.

Get yourself a dedicated set of ‘Sans Self Tea Gathering Tea Ware’ – this not only comes in handy, but also doubles up as a travel set.

It could be further simplified to ‘a pot, two cups and a flask’ if you are travelling alone. Put the covers on the teacups and hook them onto the spout and handle of the teapot. Wrap them with a wrapping cloth into a bundle. Bring along a travel-size flask of hot water.

When you are on the plane, on the train or visiting a friend, simply unwrap the bundle and lay the wrapping cloth on the table as tea cloth. Place the teapot at the centre, and the two cups in front of the pot, side by side. Tealeaves would have been added to the teapot before you leave home, so just pour water from the flask, track the time (with the timer, your watch, the wall clock or by mental counting). When the appropriate strength is attained, pour all the tea infusion into the cups by going back and forth (The amount of water must be correct to ensure all the tea infusion is emptied. By going back and forth, the strength of tea will be even between the two cups). When you are enjoying the tea alone, take the first cup followed by the second cup. When you are on a visit, offer a cup to your friend. When you are on the plane on the train sitting next to a stranger, offer a cup to him/her.  Three rounds afterwards, you may pack your tea ware and continue with the journey. When you are back at the hotel, clean and leave the pot, cups, cup covers and wrapping cloth to dry. The following day, you may add some tealeaves to the teapot, and with ‘a pot, two cups and a flask’, set off for another satisfying day accompanied by tea.

 

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