Tag Archives: 无我茶会Sans Self Tea Gathering

茶汤呈献给您的途径-20130605周三小方块-蔡荣章

茶汤呈献给您的途径

蔡荣章

20130605周三小方块 Wednesday Tea Corner

〝茶汤欣赏会〞强调茶汤,直指茶道、或说是茶文化的核心,过去我们在门外绕得太久,说了老半天的社会功能、修身养性与健康,最后才关照一下茶的本体,导致人们忽略了对茶本身的重视与欣赏。潜意识里认为喝一杯茶是极平常之事,且是免費的。现在人们看到的茶道(表演)也多强调泡茶者的服装、茶席的设计,而少将焦点放在茶的身上,甚至于连茶汤都喝不到。

我们强调茶汤,其实是强调茶,甚至于强调泡茶与奉茶,只是最终的作品呈现是茶汤,所以将茶汤列为茶道艺术的最终作品。对茶的欣赏,还要从茶汤扩展到冲泡之前的茶干与冲泡之后的叶底,茶干、茶汤、叶底是茶的三个生命体。

谈茶道,可以述说茶的修身養性与促进社会和谐的功能,可以述说茶的制造与产业,可以述说茶的冲泡与欣赏。当我们述说的是茶的冲泡与欣赏,而且将注意力往美学集中,就进入到了茶道艺术的领域。如果以茶道艺术为主体来举办茶事活动(Tea Event),而且让来宾坐下来好好欣赏茶汤,这时的茶事活动就可以说是茶汤欣赏会。如果以茶道艺术为主体,但重在展示茶道的內涵,来宾无法充分欣赏茶汤之美,这时的茶事活动就可称为茶道表演。如果只是以茶为名,展示的是与茶有关的歌舞,这时的茶事活动就称为茶艺歌舞。

茶汤欣赏会必須由泡茶师掌壶,因为只有训练有素的泡茶师才能将茶泡好,且将茶汤配合简单的言语、举止,結合茶具、茶食、环境呈献给来宾享用。当泡茶师精炼到可以将茶道艺术随心所欲地展现,就可以称他为茶道艺术家。茶道艺术家可以要求举办茶汤发表会,大家视同参加音乐会或参加画展般地参加他的茶汤作品发表。如果场地太大,或同一时间的客人数太多,茶道艺术家可以举办茶汤作品联合发表会。

茶汤欣赏会已进入到茶道艺术的境界,不只泡茶师要穿戴正式整齐,与会的来宾也要依邀请柬上的服装要求(Dress Code)着装自己。这不是讲排场或为茶道艺术加上额外的枷锁,而是大家共同成就一件艺术作品、大家共同享用茶道艺术与茶汤作品。泡茶师的泡茶服、参加茶汤欣赏会或茶汤作品发表会的礼服都可以不是制式的做法(即所谓的制服),但须符合功能性与场合隆重程度的要求,须合乎主办单位的规划(即请柬上的服装要求)。

茶汤欣赏会也好,茶汤作品发表会也好,除了接待式的情况是间接付费外,与会者是应该付費的。付費的标准不应该只是茶叶的市价,它包括了茶叶购进后泡茶师给予的精炼过程,包括茶具、泡茶用水的讲究,包括茶食、品茗环境的用心,包括泡茶师在茶道专业上的修习等等。它不是茶叶茶具销售的手段,它是独立的一件茶汤商品,也不是说只付泡茶师与茶道艺术家吃住等旅费就可以。美好的事务总是高价的,不因茶汤作品的一喝即逝、不因乐声或舞姿的瞬间停留而有损其艺术价值。

 

  (1863)

泡茶师面对预备与收拾的心态-20130527周一喝茶慢-许玉莲

 

泡茶师面对预备与收拾的心态

许玉莲

20130527周一喝茶慢MONDAY SLOW TEA

泡茶师应怎样对待泡茶前的预备工作与泡茶后的收拾工作?进行这两项工作时需要做的准备从两方面来说,即一.如何做的方法、二.做时的心态。先说泡茶前如何做?包括环境的准备比如客人坐哪里?光照从哪里来?周遭的环境如何?有什么多了的椅子要移开,盆栽不恰当的话就别要,必要时用屏风区隔空间。茶叶的准备,先把茶叶请出来,将当天要用份量放入恰当的小茶罐。茶具的准备,比如将茶具分成三组,一组是主茶器,第二组是辅茶器,第三组是煮水器与水,一件一件将之组合配套置放托盘上或盒子或篮子,顺序提拿入泡茶席。

茶具分组是未雨绸缪做好规划的必要,那就不至于拿了这样忘那样。顺序的意思是要注意茶具摆放位置的上下、左右与时间的前后,比如泡茶席有用到垫布,垫布就需摆在主茶器上方,与主茶器一起进场,先把垫布铺于桌上才可开始将茶器一一取出摆上。善加利用手上所拥有的每一件器物,不要被某件什么用具牵绊着,总觉得没有那件东西就不会泡茶的样子。

茶喝完了收拾时不要杂乱无章,首先要维持与泡茶、喝茶时候一样的那种节奏,每一个动作还是那么专注,比如出渣时要像把茶叶放入泡茶器时那般的恭敬,把清杯子的水倒掉时要像倒茶入杯时那般的细腻,一点也不能含糊。退场时务必像进场时那么认真,顺序退出。泡茶包括之前准备之后收拾,理所当然本来就属于它的一部分,要把它当作一整套,从准备开始做起,不能说前面部分的不算数,后面的也不算数,只有中间部分的我们才算,如果那样那不是很好笑吗。

二说在做准备和收拾工作时的心态:泡茶师不要有现在「是否正式或非正式」、「是否有人看或没人看」、「是否在对上级或下属做」等观念,一旦被这些想法左右,泡茶师便失去了掌席的敬业精神。

不要以为泡茶前后的准备与收拾没有多少个人看到,或以为这是属于后台的工作而草草了事,比如取拿茶叶不像在「正式」泡茶的时候那么小心翼翼,茶叶掉落在桌面就随便把它拨到地上,这种所谓「非正式」的观念要不得,泡茶师不能只顾着在席上表现优雅,下了席就不顾茶叶死活把茶叶当垃圾。

有人在拍照、有镜头对着我我才装出一副很用心对待茶、茶器的样子,镜头以外的动作我就可以随便一点没关系,反正没人看见。等一下要来喝茶的是大人物,我准备茶壶茶杯时要清理得特别干净,茶巾要去买一条新的才衬托得起这位大人物,茶要搬出家里最好的茶叶来。若等一下来喝茶的是小人物,我就啊呀无所谓啦,随便什么都可以啦。这些心态对泡茶师的个人成长与茶文化发展会有很大的影响,它带来的将是一些表面看起来不错的席与人,实际上没有泡茶师的精神与内涵可言,这样的泡茶、喝茶态度,泡一百年也不会叫人感动的。

泡茶是体能与技艺的训练,当技艺练习至一定娴熟地步,应该是随时随地都可「泡好」茶(包括前后全部过程)才对,像弹琴的人,当练得很熟有了一些功夫之后,即使不在演奏厅,只是在家为了自遣,他也不会因为这是个非正式场合而故意把琴弹得特别难听这样子。况且泡茶泡久了就会与它发生感情,就会很用心的泡,就会把泡茶当成一种生活习惯,有了这种习惯后,你要乱泡也根本不可能乱泡。泡茶师要有一定程度的爱茶爱泡茶爱喝茶,他就会时时刻刻维持一贯表现,而不会因为时空、人物转变而影响泡茶品质。

许玉莲茶铎八音

 

 

  (2014)

泡茶师学科考试是如何出题-20130522周三小方块-蔡荣章

泡茶师学科考试是如何出题

蔡荣章

20130522周三小方块 Wednesday Tea Corner

泡茶师检定考试分学科与术科,学科考对制茶、识茶、泡茶、茶器、茶史(含茶思、茶文、茶画)诸方面的知识,术科考使用不同茶具、泡不同道数、供应不同人數的泡茶能力。学科考题在1983年起至今的47届一直保持50道选择题的做法,且答案单选复选不拘。

试题若不是一人先提出草案就是由数人共同命题,但都要经过四位评委的逐条讨论后才定案,每届的讨论很少不超过二小时。于是有人建议设立题库,每届从中提取50题就是了,但这个方式一直没有实施,因为不是每人知道题库内的试题答案就算已具备了泡茶师的学术知识。泡茶师所需的茶学知识是与时推移的,一段时间不跟进就无法与茶作朋友、与喝您茶的人相交流。

出考题的人还要是与考生最接近的人,例如是从事茶学教育的人,他们才知道当前茶界所接受到的讯息与学术界正传输给他们的观念与知识,否则出题目的人想当然尔的出題,答題的人若不是莫明所云就是正确的答案有所出入。例如问到铁观音茶的汤色是(A)绿中带黃(B)金黄(C)浅褐到深褐,不同地区的考生会有不同的答案,而且都是与他们的经验吻合的(因为不同茶区的做法不同)。又问到哪首茶诗是某某人的作品,这某某人既不是历史上著名的诗人,也不是当代茶界认识度极高的人物,就难为考生作答了。

这种年年举办的泡茶师检定考试,如果不是采取题库的方式,我们可以从考題內容的发展了解茶文化进展的情况,是研究茶史很好的途徑。我们在出考題与审核时会留意到下列数项:一,制茶界已向前迈进,出題时要前后兼顾。如半球型乌龙茶已不再出现市场,就不要考乌龙茶的外形分成条型、半球型、球型。否则就要特別强调:传统揉成半球形的乌龙茶有哪些?二,因着茶文化的深入发展,如中国有没有茶道、日本茶道应该以那四个字來代表其內涵等问题没有再出现的道理。三,早年茶文化史上知名人物只考到陆羽、盧同、宋徽宗即可,现在就得扩展到苏廙、皎然、张源。原來的茶文化相关艺术只提到插花、挂画、茶诗,现在就可以扩展到茶文学的其他品项如散文、小说、戏曲。以往只考虑到本地的茶文化,如今就得关照到世界各地。四,新发展的茶文化项目与观念在成熟之后要加入考题。如无我茶会发展成熟后可考考它发生的时间地点。如茶文化再度振兴三十年后可考考茶文化复兴的课题。如茶文化已进展到茶道艺术的领域,可考考茶道艺术的本体是什么。

茶文化蓬勃發展,作为培养先锋部队的泡茶师检定考试应该有前瞻性的做法,这做法最易显现在学、术科的试題上。我们希望每届重新出題、每届研讨考题的做法能坚持下去,不因主办单位的更异有所改变,不因评委的更异有所改变。

  (4019)

泡茶师检定考试制度

        泡茶师检定考试制度        

                                                                                                            

一.   宗旨

为肯定「泡好」茶在茶道的重要性,并在茶界建立起「泡茶师」的资格认定,以与「制茶师」、「评茶师」等共同为茶文化奠基。

二.受验资格

1. 很有把握在各种情况下泡好茶。

2. 对茶叶、茶具、茶史、茶道有基本知识,举止、仪态合于茶道之本质者。

三.检定标准

1. 术科部分:

(1)      从各种不同特质的茶类中,指定三种茶受检。

(2)      每种茶指定以不同形式、大小的茶具冲泡,供应特定人数享用。以一冲泡器,装一次茶叶,供茶一至四次为原则。小壶茶于奉茶后,大桶茶于冲泡间,可以试饮一小杯茶汤。

(3)      分别检定各种茶汤的色、香、味和操作者的仪态、熟练程度、整洁与经济原则 ( 茶量与汤量的适当控制 )。

(4)      四位评审,依每位受检员的三种茶分别计分,共计十二个分数。七十分以上视为通过一关,通过十关以上者〈含十二关〉,视为术科检定通过。

2. 学科部分:

(1)     以笔试测验(选择题)对茶叶、茶具、茶道的知识。

(2)     达七十分以上者,视为学科检定通过。

四.评审小组

1. 由主办单位聘请适当专家四人,组成评审小组,担任评审工作。

2. 成绩当场公布。

五.报名

1. 报名时间依每届主办单位的公告,额满得提前截止。

2. 报名截止后,举办考试说明会。未能出席也未明确表示届时必能应考者,主办单位得主动将其延至明年或依其意愿退费,并通知候补人员递补。

3. 说明会后,不论缺席或逾时被取消某项检定资格,受检费用概不退还。

4. 受检者于考试说明会后才通知不考或临时缺考,主办单位得决定该受检人于次年是否可参加受检。

颁发证书

1. 学、术两科检定通过者,发给「泡茶师证书」,单项通过者则发学、术科单项证书。

2. 未通过者,得再报名参加下次检定,检定费用另缴。学科或术科单项通过者,两年内得保留成绩再报名检定未通过之项目,受检费用全额缴纳。

茶界资格

通过此项检定考试者,即证明具有「泡茶师」能力,具备对茶叶、茶具、茶史、茶道足够的知识,有资格在茶艺、茶叶界担任泡茶师或同性质之工作,同时有能力丰富茶艺生活的内涵。

.术科规定

  1. 依题目之顺序,奉茶到评审席上。大桶茶之多余茶汤保存于原容器内
  2. 大桶茶奉茶完毕后由监察员量出所使用的茶叶及泡出之汤量,当场报告,并说明计分情形,作为评审考核「经济」项目的参考。
  3. 评分标准

项      目

分数

备      注

泡茶成绩

注 1

经济扣分(茶量)

注 2

经济扣分(汤量)

注 2

逾时扣分

注 3

共      计

注 4

注1:除大桶茶外,冲泡结束,冲泡器一律去渣归位,未去渣者扣3分。

注2:「经济」评分系指茶叶用量、茶汤份量是否合于经济原则。一次供茶服务中, 应将茶叶作最有效的使用。

A.大桶茶茶叶用量控制不良扣分标准如下:

超过标准用量的%

扣分标准

10 ~ 20

扣3分

20 ~ 30

扣7分

30 ~

扣10分

( 以每150CC的茶汤使用茶叶3公克为标准 )

 B.大桶茶茶汤份量控制不良扣分标准如下:

超过或不足%

扣分标准

10 ~ 20

扣3分

20 ~ 30

扣7分

30 ~

扣10分

 ( 以每杯八分满计算 ) 

注3:三种茶限40分钟完成,45分种以后视为超时,扣分情形如下:

超 过 时 间

扣分标准

5 ~ 6分钟

扣1分

6 ~ 7分钟

扣2分

7 ~ 8分钟

扣4分

8 ~ 9分钟

扣7分

9 ~ 10分钟

扣10分

 ( 超过10分钟强制结束 )

注4:注2的茶量、汤量与注3的时间,由现场监察员提供资料供评审参考。

 泡茶师检定考试a

泡茶师检定考试b

泡茶师检定考试e

泡茶师检定考试f

泡茶师检定考试评委许玉莲

泡茶师检定考试评委蔡荣章

泡茶师检定考试2015年漳州科技学院

 

 

  (2261)

烧水如何判断水温-许玉莲

烧水如何判断水温

许玉莲

20130305马来西亚《光明日报》每周“茶人的第三隻眼”专栏

烧水如何控制水温?有人拿手指试探性摸摸壶身,用触觉判断水的温度。有人打开壶盖,将手掌放在上面试探水气的热度。有人用工业温度计比如饼干制造厂测量糖浆那种,形状像把手枪,按一下就有红外线照射着目的物,即时读出温度。有人建议在煮水壶上装置温度计,一劳永逸解决问题。前二者的动作都有点危险,随时会烫伤,并非合理方法。后二者太刻板太科技了啦,有些事情我们确实需要现代化器具协助了解、完成,但有必要留一些空间给泡茶者去用心感觉,免得到最后已忘记为何要这么做,我们要当自己的师傅,而不要把科技、器具当师傅。

用什么方式判断水温比较准确和安全呢,烧水过了一段时间后,打开壶盖检视热水气冒上来的状况,可凭水蒸气冒出的强、弱势知道水温。开始学习判断水温时要准备温度计以便做实验,实验的重点:好好的体会一下各种不同温度的水蒸汽冒上的状况,到底长什么样子,而不只是看温度计的指标,然后可依此整理出一个规则,作为往后泡茶时的判断依据。

有人说那不是很麻烦吗,学泡茶就要买温度计了?温度计也不是到处可以买到。不要紧,懒得去买温度计的人就听老师说,老师就是温度计。以下是从蒸汽冒上状况看水温的实验,以电壶加热,壶大小1100cc,为不锈钢壶。左为水温记录,右为水气冒上来的样子:

摄氏五十度:不容易察觉有水气

摄氏六十度:若隐若现,像有雾

摄氏七十度:柔柔弱弱的一缕轻烟

摄氏八十度:直沖而上

摄氏九十度: 快窜

摄氏九十五度:猛

摄氏九十八度:一束好大串的水气,又旺又猛

注意电水壶加热的热源是怎样的?一.是水中加热方式,这样煮水效果比较好,为什么呢,因为热能都被水吸收了。二.是壶外加热的方式,这种煮水壶的缺点是:部分热能会散发在室内,煮水时间要耗长一点。第一种比第二种的水蒸气会比较快冒上来,即同样一束大小的水气,第一种的水温要稍减五度。使用瓦斯、酒精或炭,消耗热能更多,而且室内氧气也随之消耗。在空气不流通的空间,不主张用这三样燃料来烧水。

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品茗馆之龙井-许玉莲

品茗馆之龙井

许玉莲.文/摄影

现代茶思想龙井 龙井外形扁平,挺秀的样子好神气,似剑状,有些呈弧度的似镰刀微微弯,很有线条美,将龙井拨出时,茶叶会自自然然地滑滑地向四面八方倾泻,滑成一座小山的样子。

现代茶思想龙井

茶干色泽黄中带绿,整体均匀;闻茶干,有清新的芽香,香气会迅速散播在空气里。吃茶干,小小一片含在嘴里,其芽香味可充满整个口腔,

冲泡时的水气,可捕抓到一丝丝从这股芽香挥发出来的青青草原气息。

现代茶思想龙井

 

现代茶思想龙井

其茶汤水柔软,水色是嫩嫩的淡淡的鹅毛黄,汤水香气清纯。水面会有微量的细细茸毛,那是属于嫩芽头的。

茶汤入口滋味醇厚,有花蜜香味在上颚,喉底回甘,留有一种乳香味在嘴里,似咀嚼坚果或瓜子时,到最后会有一丝乳香的感觉,让人恋念。

现代茶思想龙井

泡过的芽头体态彷如刚采下的新鲜叶子,有弹性,吃茶渣,带植物的清爽苦味。

现代茶思想龙井

现代茶思想龙井

上图:看龙井茶叶的大小。(上排:cm、下排:inch)

 

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我们期待怎样的茶艺师证照-20130403周三小方块-蔡荣章

我们期待怎样的茶艺师证照

蔡荣章

20130403周三小方块WEDNESDAY TEA CORNER

我要考茶艺师证照吗?

这要看您的需要,如果您想在中国茶界找一份工作,有这样一张证书是多少有点帮助的,如果不是为求职而只是兴趣于泡茶,倒可不必。

为什么说在中国找一份茶界工作有这样一张证书是多少有点帮助,而不是绝对肯定的答案呢?

茶艺师证照虽然是一种职业证照,但目前在中国还没有强制性要求,所以茶行、茶艺馆没有说是无具备茶艺师资格的从业人员不得经营。当然,如果茶企业招聘员工时,握有一张茶艺师证书的人是会被视为多一份资历的。

为什么说如果不是为求职而只是兴趣于泡茶,倒可不必?

因为茶艺师证照目前尚未显示泡茶能力证明的功效,原来设计时也没往这方面设想。原来茶艺师证照的职能要求仅偏向于为客人准备好泡茶的一切或是从事茶艺表演与解说。

如果从检测的内容来修正,是不是可以让茶艺师证照变得具有泡茶能力证明的功效?

可以的,只要在检测的时候加重将茶汤泡得精准的项目,就可以让茶艺师证照变得具有泡茶能力证明的功效。近来茶行、茶艺馆开始重视员工泡茶的能力,有泡茶师为客人泡茶的品茗馆也逐渐兴起,加重将茶汤泡得精准的茶艺师证照更可符合新时代的需要。

近来有些海外人士到中国参加茶艺师的考照,是不是意味着这些人对中国茶艺师证照的重视?

中国茶艺师证照由官方发给,这点是让大众觉得有信心的,但是举办考试的地点由各地不同层级的单位执行,试题由各省自行制订,这些试点对发证的态度与松紧程度相去颇大。应考员经历了考试的内容后,发现与他们想象的茶艺业内涵与茶道生活有一段距离。这是中国茶艺师证照应调整检测方法与方向的地方。

茶艺师证照的检测内容是不是也影响业界与人们在茶文化上的走向?

是的,大众会以为茶艺师证照的检测内容就是茶艺业应该的经营内容,也就是拟加入该行业的人应学习的功课。结果这就影响了业界与人们在茶文化上的走向。

某行业的职业证照或某学术领域的资格证书所检测的内容应该就是该行业、该学术领域的重心。一般人对某行业、某学术领域应有的走向不都是先知先觉的,如果其检测的内容有所偏差或与時代脱节,就会影响该行业、该学术领域的发展。同样的道理,有识之士也可以利用检测的内容引导某行业或某学术领域的前进方向。

现今的茶业正需要从茶叶市场拓展到茶汤市场,茶汤市场需要具备高度泡茶能力的人才,我们希望中国茶艺师证照能加重泡茶能力的检测,协助茶业走进茶汤市场的领域。现今的茶艺馆已为数不多,取得这样的茶艺师证照也是徒然,若能调整检测的方向而带动茶汤市场的兴起,茶艺师证照才有广阔的用武之地。

 

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無我茶會Sans Self Tea Gathering-Chapter 6- Pre-event Preparation for Sans Self Tea Gathering -蔡荣章Rong-tsang Tsai

《無我茶會Sans Self Tea Gathering 180條》

蔡荣章著Author:Rong-tsang Tsai

ISBN 978-957-9690-08-9,“无我茶会Sans Self Tea Gathering 180” ,First edition: 1999.9, Second edition: 2010.9,《无我茶会180条》,1999.9第一版,2010.9第二版,台北陆羽茶艺股份有限公司.2012.05.20修订版.-English Translator : Katherine Yip,英语翻译:叶德明.

Chapter 6 Pre-event Preparation for Sans Self Tea Gathering

53 ‘Simplicity and Modesty’: the principle behind the use of tea ware for Sans Self Tea Gathering.

A Sans Self Tea Gathering is to be carried out in as simple a manner as possible; the same goes with personal tea ware for the occasion – one can look to ‘travel tea ware’ as a guide. Going simple will help significantly cut down on time spent preparing, using and packing tea ware; meanwhile, time saved will enable us to experience and enjoy the atmosphere and ambience of the tea gathering.

Precious tea ware is best kept at home. Participants are encouraged to bring along practical pieces. Though the rare fines will usually make quite an impression during the ‘tea ware appreciation and networking’ session, this will draw comparison as participants may rack their brains trying to determine which ones to bring to catch attention. They would be so worried about their precious tea service throughout the event that they will miss what is essentially an enjoyable experience. More often than not, simplicity could be the best policy in life — fame, wealth, possession, and ways and means alike.

When we mentioned ‘precious’, we refer to the yardstick for participants in general. However, for those who often bring such tea ware along and find no problem with this, we will not name-tagged such ‘unsuitable’.

54. The basic ware for Sans Self Tea Gathering

For a gathering with floor seats, bring along ‘seating cushion’. As everyone has to brew tea, ‘teapot’ or ‘tea bowl’ for whisking matcha is essential, so are ‘teacups’. The number of teacups would depend on what is listed in the ‘Notification’.  If teapot is used, bring along a ‘tea pitcher’ for distributing tea; even if tea is evenly poured into the cups from the pot for the first brewing, it will not be easy to attain the same level of evenness in strength for subsequent brews. Pour tea into the pitcher first before serving,  because the teacups would have been offered to different fellow tea drinkers – if we pour tea directly from the teapot into individual teacups, the tea infusion served first will be weaker than that served later; and , going back and forth to ensure even strength is too much of a hassle. A ‘tea serving tray’ will come in handy for serving tea from the tea pitcher or tea bowl (in the case of whisking matcha).

For convenience’s sake, put the right amount of tealeaves into the teapot beforehand, if you prepare to use one. This saves the trouble of bringing along the ‘tea caddy’. However, if matcha is to be served, the ‘tea caddy’ is a must, so are the ‘tea scoop’ for scooping out the tea powder and ‘tea whisk’ for whipping up the matcha.

Hot water is a must for both brewed and whisked teas.  Bring along a thermal flask with boiled water of the required temperature. As duration for brewing is crucial, a ‘timer’ with seconds display or a watch is essential to help keep track of time. A ‘tea towel’ will help catch any drip in the course of tea brewing or serving; and it can be used to wipe the used cups when we are packing after the tea gathering.

Lay a piece of ‘tea brewing cloth’ on the floor (or on the table, if applicable). Place the tea ware on the cloth. Make sure there is enough space at the outer edge for the others to offer tea to you. You may use either the cloth for wrapping the tea ware or a dedicated ‘pot wrapping cloth’ for this purpose.

Put the tea ware into your ‘carrying bag’, and you are ready to attend the Sans Self Tea Gathering.

无我茶会小壶茶法茶具

 

无我茶会抹茶法茶具

55. Some practical tips about the ‘Tea Ware’ for Sans Self Tea Gathering

There should be a strainer at the base of the teapot’s spout to prevent tealeaves from blocking the flow of tea. The mesh should be very fine to catch even the very tiny residue. Otherwise, residue with some tea infusion may be left at the bottom of the teacups, affecting not just the water temperature, but making it difficult to wipe dry the teacups afterwards. A ‘strainer’ incorporated at the opening of the tea pitcher could complement the straining function of the teapot. Tea pitchers are used to distribute tea infusion into individual teacups. It is important that these pitchers have ‘anti-dripping’ design; otherwise, tea infusion may spill and wet the brewing area of fellow participants. (If a rug is used at the brewing area, quickly use the tea towel or tissue paper to absorb the tea infusion to avoid leaving any stain which could be hard to remove)

The size of the teapots and tea pitchers should be considered in relation to the number of cups. Avoid using teacups with a capacity of more than 50cc. Tea infusion should only fill 4/5 of the cups because each participant will be served a few rounds. Large teacups would require large teapots/tea pitchers as well as water flasks, which could be inconvenient when being carried around.  Use weightier teacups.  Do not use delicate teacups such as the eggshell porcelain for outdoor tea gatherings to avoid spillage in a sudden draft.  Fluted-shape teacups with small base are not advisable, as they may spill with a quick gust of air or being carried around on the tray

The serving tray should be just big enough for the cups. Also, avoid trays with very slippery surface to eliminate the risk of spillage when the cups are being carried around.

56. How is the best way for tea ware to travel?

Each item for the Sans Self Tea Gathering has to be packed in a damage-free manner.  Teapots, tea pitchers or tea bowls could be wrapped carefully with a ‘wrapping cloth’. Tea cups, be they stacked on top of each other, bundled up or ‘hooked’ onto the teapot and be wrapped together, must have ‘cup covers’ for extra protection; otherwise, they may be damaged by pressure. The thermal flask must be positioned upright and wobble-free, and not knocking against other tea ware in the carrying bag.

Organize the carrying bag into a few parts: one for the thermal flask; one for major tea ware such as teapot, tea pitcher and teacups; one for the tea serving tray, tea towel and timer; one for the seating mat; and one for personal items such as camera. This way, packing will be a lot easier. If possible, use a shoulder bag for ease of movement and flexibility.

When tea ware has to be transported in your checked-in baggage for an overseas Sans Self Tea Gathering, protect each item with personal clothing in a hard-case luggage.  If in doubt, bring them along in your hand luggage.

无我茶会一壶二杯包紮法

 

无我茶会一盅二杯包紮法

57. Things to note about the protective/wrapping materials for the tea ware

Apart from safety, protective/wrapping materials for the tea ware must also be considered in terms of hygiene, odour and appearance. ‘Hygiene’ means that the materials and printing on it must be pollution-free and easy to wash.  Materials with ‘odour’ will stay on the tea ware or be absorbed by the tealeaves; hence, it is important to choose odour-free materials.  ‘Appearance’ refers to the fact that the wrapping and unwrapping of the tea ware is a part of the ‘tea-brewing’ experience – ease of use and visual appeal will affect the mood of the participants. You may use the original commercial packaging or towels at home. While these will save you the worries about hygiene and odour, they may not be stylistically refined enough.

58. Which ‘tea’ should I bring?

This would cover the type and grade of tealeaves. ‘The type’ would depend on what is stated in the ‘Notification’ issued by the organizer; but the principle is to welcome ‘all types of tea’ or teas in a broad category. ‘The grade‘would be largely a personal choice, as long as it does not have an unpleasant smell or taste, and is not something you don’t like, because it would go against the aspiration of Sans Self Tea Gathering to encourage us to ‘accept and appreciate teas of all kinds’.

On what occasions would the organizer require a specific category of tea be used? For example, if a Sans Self Tea Gathering is planned for early spring to remind us of the arrival of the season, the Notification may make it clear that green tea is preferred; however, there will not be any restriction on the types. As for a memorial tea gathering, the organizer may request participants to bring along a certain type of tea because of its relationship with the person to be honoured.

59. How should be ‘tea’ be carried? (When should we put tealeaves into the teapot?)

With the exception of ‘powdered tea’, tealeaves can be added into the teapot before leaving home.  In the spirit of ‘simplicity and frugality’ of the Sans Self Tea Gathering, there is no need to bring along the tea caddy. Some of us may be worried about the quality of the tealeaves transported this way. Fret not. This is acceptable on the day itself, provided that the teapot is dry and there is no distinct odour or off-smell in the carrying bag. For tea gathering to take place the following day, get ready a tea caddy and leave it in the luggage. Put tealeaves into the teapot right before you leave for the tea gathering the next day.

Powdered tea has to be whisked in the tea bowls, and there is no way it can be placed in the bowls and be carried to the venue. It is, therefore, necessary to bring along a separate powdered tea container.

60. How to prepare the tea ware if two types of tea are to be brewed?

In the spirit of ‘simplicity and frugality’ advocated by the Sans Self Tea Gathering, we will not think along the line of ‘discarding the residue > rinse > and then put in another type of tealeaves’ when the organizer requests two teas be brewed. Instead, prepare an extra teapot, and pack another tea separately. The same set of teacups will be used.

Normally, such requests would be made for a gathering that lasts longer, or at a venue that is conducive for staying longer, or of long missed friends. There may be an intermission, or some other activities in between for the first and second situations mentioned above.

61. Preparing water for brewing and the choice of thermal flask

One of the rules of a Sans Self Tea Gathering is ‘to be self-equipped without expecting anything from the organizer’.  As such, each participant will have to bring along water for brewing. Given the improved temperature retention technology nowadays, the slight temperature drop in the flask will not affect the brew. However, if the water is kept in the flask longer than half a day, it is necessary to add hot water. The best time and place to do so is during meal break at the eatery you dine in.

Decide water temperature according to the type of tea you are going to brew. Make it 3°C to 5°C higher than required to provision for temperature drop on the way. Furthermore, the basic way of brewing adopted by the Sans Self Tea Gathering requires no pot warming. Use hot water to rinse the thermal flask before adding hot water to it will help eliminate heat loss. If the outside of the flask feels hot after hot water is poured in, insulation is inefficient and it is time to change the flask.

Opt for travel-size instead of household flasks. The size of thermal flask would depend on the number of cups to be served and rounds of brewing. Choose flasks made of impact-resistant and unbreakable materials, and look for one-push open button design – not only is this more convenient than the stopper type for pouring water out, you will not end up having a big splash in case the flask topples.

62. Sitting posture at a Sans Self Tea Gathering

Unless in the rare occasion where chairs and tables are made available, Sans Self Tea Gathering are normally held with participants sitting and brewing on the floor. How then should participants sit?  One can sit with parallel legs and bent knees (as in kneeling), with crossed legs and bent legs, or in a half-lotus position. We encourage kneel-sitting because it is more elegant and makes it easier for the participants to rise and serve tea. However, it would need a bit of practising for the inexperienced. Try gradually lengthen the time as you practise. Meanwhile, small collapsible chairs are allowed for participants with knee problem which do not allow them to sit on the floor.

Floor seating encourages closer interaction apart from the fact that there are no chairs and tables blocking the way. This goes with family members brewing tea together. What’s more, sitting on the floor allows you to feel the earth beneath you, giving rise to the feeling of harmony between man and land.

63. Some practical tips about the seating mat

Seating mats are essential since Sans Self Tea Gathering supports the idea of floor seating. In an outdoor setting, there will be small stones on the ground, so it is good to have the seating mat made of stretchable and durable materials; loose, spongy ones are not suitable.

Considering that Sans Self Tea Gatherings are organized in different locations, it is best to use tea ware that travels well. By the same token, seating mat has to be easy to carry. Consider seating mats that can be folded. A simple DIY version goes like this: Get a piece of dense sponge. Make a fabric cover slightly larger than the sponge and sew to divide it into four compartments. Cut the sponge into four squares of equal size. Insert a cut piece of sponge into a compartment and sew up. This way, you will have a seating mat that can be folded one-fourth of the size it opens up. Make sure the mat, when opens up, is large enough for you to be seated. If you are going to kneel-sit, the length of the mat should be slightly more than the distance between your knee and toes when seated. The width should be slightly more than that of the body when seated.

64. What should we bring along in addition, if it rains before the tea gathering or the ground is sandy/muddy?

Bring along a lightweight, water-proof cloth if the ground is wet or muddy. Lay it on the ground and put the seating mat and tea ware on top of it. This should take away the worries.

Why lightweight cloth, you may ask? We don’t suggest using plastic sheets because they are mostly lacking in visual appeal and are too slippery to stay in place, unless you can find some nice ones with a ‘cloth’ feel. By comparison, water-proof fabric looks more appealing. Lightweight material is easy to bring along and clean afterwards. This cloth should cover the area of the seating mat and brewing area; and yet, it should not be so big that it exceeds the area allocated by the organizer and may cause a slip or trip.

65. Attire and shoes for Sans Self Tea Gathering

This would depend on the occasion – formal gatherings require proper attire; for occasions among friends, casual clothing is fine. Whichever the case, the clothes you wear must allow you to be seated and brew tea with ease. Neckties and accessories such as long necklaces should be secured in place to avoid it finding its way into the tea infusion or hitting the tea ware.

Should the venue require participants to remove their shoes throughout the event, pay attention to the colour and thickness of the socks/stockings – a pair of very transparent silk stocking would create the impression of one being bare-footed.

For venue that does not require participants to take off their shoes throughout the event, choose shoes that can be ‘put on’ and ‘taken off’ easily. It will be inconvenient, not to say unbecoming, if you have to tie or untie your shoelaces or pulling your shoes strenuously on or off each time you get back to your seat or rise to offer tea.

66. What kind of preparation is required for a tea gathering that calls for tea time snacks?

If tea time snacks are to be shared during the tea gathering, participants have to prepare both the snacks and serving utensils. As the name suggests, these snacks are to be taken with tea. A small quantity will serve the purpose, since each participant will get to enjoy snacks brought along by several fellow participants. The flavour of these snacks should harmonize with that of the tea – avoid snacks that are too strong, too salty, too spicy or too sour in taste. Equally inappropriate will be snacks containing parts that require us to spit out at the end or those that are too chewy, as these will cause inconvenience and create anxiety.   Bring along snacks that are easy to handle, preferably individually packed.

The number of servings should match that of cups to be served. For example, the Notification specifies four cups are to be served, then bring along four servings of snack. If the participants are expected to offer tea to onlookers, the Notification will specify the amount of extra snacks required.

We should also prepare utensils for serving snacks. Bring along two small dishes; alternatively, use two pieces of paper towel. One of these should be placed on the tea serving tray for the snacks you’ve brought along; the other at an appropriate spot at the tea brewing area for others to offer snacks to you. Remember to pack equipment such as bamboo knife, if required.

67. Example of tea brewing at a Sans Self Tea Gathering: Small teapot brewing

As mentioned, Sans Self Tea Gathering encourages the use of travel tea ware for fuss-free tea brewing.  There is, however, no restriction on the style and brewing method. The ‘small pot’ brewing which we are going to talk about and the ‘lidded-cup’ brewing and ‘powdered tea’ brewing which we will discuss later are but for reference only.

Take your seat, and lay the seating mat on the floor. Stand behind the rear end of the mat, take off your shoes, and sit on the mat. Place the carrying bag on your right. If the ground is wet or too sandy/muddy, lay the cloth liner first before laying your seating mat, aligning the rear end of both. If there is no cloth liner, shift your seat slightly to avoid the inconvenient surface, provided this does not affect the order and the overall arrangement of the seats.

Place the tea serving tray in front of the seating mat. Leave some space between the tray and the seating mat as the tea brewing area. Take out the tea ware. Say you have bundled two teacups with the teapot together, and the other two teacups with the tea pitcher (in the event that each participant is to bring along four teacups). Take out the bundle with teapot first, unwrap and place the teacups and teapot on the tea serving tray. Put the wrapping cloth and cup covers back in the bag. Then, take out the bundle with the pitcher, unwrap, and lay the wrapping cloth (which doubles up as tea cloth) between the seating mat and tea serving tray. Remove the teapot from the tray and put it on the tea cloth, then put the two cups from the second bundle on the tray. Arrange the four cups properly, and make sure the teapot and tea pitcher are at the centre of the tea cloth.

Leave some space at the front end of the tea cloth for others to place their cups when they offer tea to you. Leave some space at the rear end of the tea cloth as well, to accommodate the tea towel and timer (tea towel could be replaced by paper towel, and timer could be replaced by your watch). For special reasons such as space constraint or children participate in brewing, the tea serving tray could be positioned to the right of the tea cloth to make the tray more accessible. Shift the tea cloth a bit to the left.

Take out the tea towel and timer. Place them behind the teapot and tea pitcher. The thermal flask should be placed to the left of the tea cloth (In general, participant will use their right hand to hold the teapot, and pour the water using their left hand).

According to standard procedure, tealeaves would have been put into the teapot. When it is the scheduled time for brewing, pour an appropriate amount of hot water from the flask into the teapot, and then sit quietly while tracking the time.  Don’t be distracted; have your mind settled down and track your time by simply counting your breath. When it is about time, check your timer to ascertain timing and pour all the tea infusion into the tea pitcher. Then, pour tea from the pitcher into the teacups. Hold the tea serving tray with both hands and rise to offer tea. Leave the last cup of tea on your tray and return to your seat. Place the cup on your tea cloth.

When everyone has finished the first cup, you may start brewing a second time. Follow the same routine – track the time, sit down quietly and pour the tea into the cups. This time, put the pitcher and tea towel on the tea serving tray. Hold the tea serving tray with both hands and rise to offer tea. Pour tea from the pitcher into the cups you have already offered; use the tea towel to catch any drip. Return to your seat and pour a cup for yourself.

When it is time for packing, wipe the cups you have drunk from with the tea towel. Bring along the tea serving tray and collect the cups you have served others. Return to your seat and place your cup onto the tray as well.

Screw back the cover of the flask (during the gathering, it is not necessary to do so each time after you have poured hot water; just close the inner opening will do), put it back into the carrying bag, and then put back the tea towel and timer.  Put two of the cups onto the tea cloth, and move the teapot to the tray. Take out two cup covers from the bag and put them on the two cups. Use the tea cloth (which doubles up as a wrapping cloth) to wrap the tea pitcher and the two covered cups into a bundle, and put this back in the bag. Take out the other wrapping cloth and the remaining cup covers.  Pack the teacups and teapot carefully and put them back into the bag. Put back the tea tray. Finish by folding the seating mat and cloth liner and put them back.

68. Example of tea brewing at a Sans Self Tea Gathering: Lidded cup brewing

You may want to brew with a lidded cup. In this case, you would have packed the lidded cup, the tea pitcher and cups into three separate bundles (some may want to wrap equal number of cups separately with the lidded cup and pitcher, making two bundles). Begin by laying the seating mat.  Put the tea serving tray in place, and take out the bundle of ‘cups’. Unwrap and put them on the tray, two in a stack; keep some space free on the tray.  Then, take out the ‘tea pitcher’ and unwrap, leaving it temporarily on the tray. Finally, take out the ‘lidded cup’. Unwrap and lay the wrapping cloth on the floor as the tea cloth. Move the tea pitcher to the centre of the tea cloth, side by side with the lidded cup. Leave some space at the front end of the tea cloth for others to place their cups when they offer tea to you. Meanwhile, place the tea towel and timer at the rear end of the tea cloth.

Tealeaves would have been added to the lidded cup beforehand. Brew tea by pouring in hot water. Track the time for the desired strength. Take up the lidded cup and pour all the tea infusion into the tea pitcher. Then, pour tea from the pitcher into the teacups. Offer tea with the tea serving tray. From the second brewing onwards, offer tea with pitcher on the tray, and pour tea into the cups you have already offered.

At the end of the gathering, pack tea ware individually. Put them back into the carrying bag in the reverse order.

69. Example of tea brewing at a Sans Self Tea Gathering: Powdered Tea Brewing (and Drinking)

For powdered tea to be served as the Sans Self Tea Gathering, follow the ‘Whisked Powdered Tea for Small Cups’ format.  Powdered tea is whisked in the tea bowl before being poured into small cups to be served.  As far as preparation concerned, wrap teacups and tea bowl into the first bundle, the tea caddy of powdered tea the second, and the tea scoop and tea whisk the third.  Follow the standard procedure to lay the seating mat and tea serving tray. Take out the second and then the third bundles, unwrap and put the tea caddy of powered tea, tea scoop and tea whisk on the tray. Take out the first bundle, use the wrapping cloth as tea cloth and lay it on the floor. Place the tea bowl at the centre of the tea cloth, the tea caddy to its left, and the tea scoop and tea whisk to its right. The tea cups should be placed on the tray.

Add an appropriate amount of powdered tea to the tea bowl, add water and whisk. Hold the bowl and pour it into the cups (use a ‘spouted tea bowl’, i.e., a tea bowl with a serving spout). Offer tea to others with the teacups on the tray. From the second brewing onwards, whisk the tea and bring over the tea bowl for serving.

When it is time for packing, pour some hot water into the tea bowl. Swirl the water around for a while and then pour it into your own cup; this will help dislodge the tea powder residue in the cup. Take this as a ‘parting drink’ and finish it in one if not two cups.  Fellow tea drinkers may do the same – pour some hot water into the cup with powdered tea residue, swirl and drink before wiping the cup.

70. There is no pot warming or cup warming in the description of the methods above. Why?

As the simple approach of a Sans Self Tea Gathering  goes, the steps of putting in tealeaves, appreciating the appearance, taking in the aroma and warming the cups and others have been eliminated. Tealeaves are to be put into the teapot before leaving home.

Appreciating the appearance and taking in the aroma of the tealeaves would help tea brewers decide the brewing methods. Should the guests be invited to do the same, it will complicate the procedure on the one hand, and disturb brewers from making correct judgement on the other. One of the principles observed by a Sans Self Tea Gathering is “making an effort to brew well”. Tea brewers need to have thorough understanding of the tealeaves before brewing. They will judge the amount to be used by appreciating the appearance of the tealeaves. Meanwhile, brewing time becomes extremely important after two to three brewings, and one way to ensure sound judgement is by taking in the aroma. Pot warming helps prevent teapot from drawing too much heat from the water. To compensate for the omission of pot warming, just increase the water temperature when you are preparing the water, or slightly extend the duration of brewing.  Cup warming helps prevent tea infusion from cooling too fast. Considering the relatively short distance between participants, and the duration from the time tea is offered to the time it is consumed, the tea infusion would not have cooled significantly. As such, this step can be eliminated.

71. Lighting requirement for an evening Sans Self Tea Gathering

An evening Sans Self Tea Gathering reminds participants just how beautiful a night it is. Participants would have to bring along their own lighting device, which would have to comply with the following requirements:

a. It must be easy to carry, safe and hassle-free.  If the outing involves a flight journey, check if the fuel is allowed to be checked-in.

b. Bring along, or create your own lighting equipment. This will add colour and diversity to a wonderful evening event.

c. Pay attention to wind-proof design that keeps it out of draughts – this is important especially with candle or oil lamps.

d. Choose light that shines downwards. Make sure it lights up the tea ware, especially the tip of the spout to ensure you can see clearly the height of the stream of water being poured into the teapot.  Do not rely on hand-held lighting device (such as a torch); this may accidently points at the others when you put it down on the floor.

e. The lighting should last for an hour and a half, and above. Light up your area from the time of preparation – do not wait until you begin brewing. This is to make sure the ‘tea ware appreciation and networking’ session is bright enough for the participants.  For battery-operated device, bring a spare set for replacement.

72. What is to be achieved with a Sans Self Tea Gathering?

A Sans Self Tea Gathering enables participants to embrace the spirit of the Way of Tea, including an absence of hierarchy, no expectation of reciprocity, setting aside of personal preferences, and an effort to improve and progress. There are no facilitators or event directors, and silence is observed throughout the gathering to reveal the beauty of collective rhythm. The aim of the tea gathering is achieved if the above has been fulfilled.

Making new friends during the pre-event ‘tea ware appreciation and networking’ session or other post-event activities, and catching up with old friends at the gathering could be considered added values of Sans Self Tea Gathering.

Some participants may find it too much of a hassle to travel this far with tea ware on tow for just a few rounds of tea. There may even be a sense of loss if the gathering fails to bring out the characteristics of Sans Self Tea Gathering.

To enrich the experience, one may include post-event activities such as talk, music performance or hiking.

73. How to enjoy Sans Self Tea Gathering in a relaxed manner?

Avoid focusing too much on socializing, and make sure you prepare yourself well, as follows:

a. Familiarize yourself with the rules of Sans Self Tea Gathering. This way, you will not make mistakes that may spoil your mood.

b. Prepare all the necessary items and make sure they work properly. Avoid poorly-designed tea pitcher that drips, teapots with insufficient straining capacity, and seating mats that are too soft to cushion you comfortably against small stones – these will stop you from fully enjoying the experience.

c. Practice brewing beforehand.  Know how much water is needed for a certain number of cups, the required water temperature, and the way to brew a perfect cup. It will be too late to apologize if what you offer is far from being perfect.

d. Find a way to sit comfortably on the floor, and get used to it. This requires practice, whichever you are going to sit – numbness and pain will take away the pleasure you should be feeling at a Sans Self Tea Gathering.

74. Choose tea ware that travels well for Sans Self Tea Gathering.

Get yourself a dedicated set of ‘Sans Self Tea Gathering Tea Ware’ – this not only comes in handy, but also doubles up as a travel set.

It could be further simplified to ‘a pot, two cups and a flask’ if you are travelling alone. Put the covers on the teacups and hook them onto the spout and handle of the teapot. Wrap them with a wrapping cloth into a bundle. Bring along a travel-size flask of hot water.

When you are on the plane, on the train or visiting a friend, simply unwrap the bundle and lay the wrapping cloth on the table as tea cloth. Place the teapot at the centre, and the two cups in front of the pot, side by side. Tealeaves would have been added to the teapot before you leave home, so just pour water from the flask, track the time (with the timer, your watch, the wall clock or by mental counting). When the appropriate strength is attained, pour all the tea infusion into the cups by going back and forth (The amount of water must be correct to ensure all the tea infusion is emptied. By going back and forth, the strength of tea will be even between the two cups). When you are enjoying the tea alone, take the first cup followed by the second cup. When you are on a visit, offer a cup to your friend. When you are on the plane on the train sitting next to a stranger, offer a cup to him/her.  Three rounds afterwards, you may pack your tea ware and continue with the journey. When you are back at the hotel, clean and leave the pot, cups, cup covers and wrapping cloth to dry. The following day, you may add some tealeaves to the teapot, and with ‘a pot, two cups and a flask’, set off for another satisfying day accompanied by tea.

 

  (3411)

第六章 與會者事前的準備-蔡荣章

《無我茶會Sans Self Tea Gathering 180條》

蔡荣章著Author:Rong-tsang Tsai

ISBN978-957-9690-08-9 ,“无我茶会Sans Self Tea Gathering180,”, First edition: 1999.9, Second edition: 2010.9。《无我茶会180条》,1999.9第一版,2010.9第二版,台北陆羽茶艺股份有限公司,2012.05.20修订版。

第六章 與會者事前的準備

53.無我茶會茶具「精儉」的要求

無我茶會不僅行政工作要力求簡便,個人攜帶的茶具也要簡便,是以「旅行用茶具」作為準備的原則,因為簡便才不至於把很多時間花在茶具的準備、操作與收拾上,才有多餘的時間可以體會、享受茶會的氣氛與意境。

無我茶會還要求不帶珍貴的茶具,雖然珍貴的茶具在「茶具觀摩與聯誼」的時候會造成熱烈的迴響,但也容易引起比較,出發前就思量著應帶什麼茶具才能夠在會上奪得異彩。攜帶珍貴的茶具,一路上也會提心吊膽,失掉了許多參加茶會的樂趣。再說,簡便也是吾人處世很好的一種態度,包括對名、對利、對物,以及方法與手段。

上述所說的「珍貴」,是指一般人的衡量標準,如果使用者對該件茶具已習以為常,攜帶上、使用上都不會造成得失上的太大負擔,我們可以將之排除在“不宜攜帶”的範圍。

54.無我茶會的基本道具

無我茶會若是席地而坐,應該準備一塊「坐墊」。無我茶會是人人泡茶,所以要有泡茶的「壺」,或打末茶的「碗」。無我茶會是人人奉茶,所以要有「杯子」,杯子的數量依「公告事項」所定。如果用壺泡茶,還要有容納茶湯的「茶盅」,以便將茶分倒入杯;因為即使第一道可用平均分茶法直接將茶倒入杯中,但第二道以後呢?必須將泡好的茶全部倒入盅內,然後端茶盅出去奉茶。因為你的杯子是分散在客人那邊,如果直接以壺出去倒茶,先倒的必淡,後倒的必濃,要來回倒以求濃度平均是不方便的。為了端杯或端茶盅、茶碗(打末茶時)出去奉茶,需要一個「奉茶盤」。

為了簡便,以壺泡茶時,可以在出門前將準備沖泡的茶葉放入壺內,這樣就不必另行攜帶放茶葉的「茶罐」;但如果是打末茶,就必須準備裝有末茶的茶罐。打末茶時,還要有舀末茶的「茶杓」及打末茶的「茶筅」。

不論泡茶或打「末茶」,都必須有熱水,所以必須配備熱水瓶,裝妥所需溫度的熱水。泡茶需要控制茶葉浸泡的時間,所以攜帶一只讀秒的「計時器」,或以手錶代替。泡茶、奉茶時,難免有茶水滴落,有條「茶巾」比較方便,這條茶巾還可以在收拾茶具之前用來擦拭自已用過的杯子。

泡茶時(包括打末茶),應該有條「泡茶巾」鋪在地上(桌上泡茶時則鋪在桌上),上面放置茶具,其外緣還要留出空間作為別人奉茶給自己的地方。這條泡茶巾可以用包裹茶具的「包壺巾」代替,也可以另行準備。

以上這些茶具用「茶具袋」裝著,就可以參加無我茶會了。

无我茶会小壶茶法茶具

无我茶会抹茶法茶具

 55.無我茶會的「茶具」應注意哪些使用上的功能

泡茶用的茶壺,其出水孔要有濾網,免得被茶葉堵塞而出水不良。濾網要細,否則茶湯中細渣太多,喝茶的人無法將茶湯喝光,每次留一些在杯內,不但影響下一道的水溫,最後擦拭杯子時也不方便。在茶盅的盅口加一個「濾網」可以彌補茶壺濾渣功能的不足。茶盅最主要的功能是分茶入杯,盅嘴要能「斷水」,否則倒茶時會有茶水滴落到外面來,出去奉茶時會把別人的泡茶區弄濕。(如果在地毯上泡茶,應立即以茶巾或紙巾將茶湯儘量吸乾,否則染上茶色後不容易去除。)

壺、盅的大小應配合杯數的需要,無我茶會使用的杯子不要超過50cc,所倒茶湯也以八分滿為限,因為往往要喝數位朋友的數道茶。杯子太大,壺盅也要大,保溫瓶也要大,都導致茶具攜帶上的不便。杯子最好厚重一些,薄胎的杯子,在戶外使用,一遇風大,容易被吹倒。底部細小的盞形杯也不適宜,不但風吹易倒,奉茶走動時也容易傾倒。

奉茶盤不要太大,放得下奉茶的杯子即可。奉茶盤的表面不要太光滑,否則起身奉茶,杯子容易滑動。

56.如何攜帶茶具才好

無我茶會的茶具必須有攜帶上防破損的包裝。壺、盅或碗可用「包壺巾」包紮,杯子不論是疊在一起包成一包,還是扣在壺身上包成一包,都要有「杯套」將杯子保護好,否則直接接觸擠壓容易破損。保溫瓶放置的地方要能固定,避免撞擊茶具。

裝茶具的袋子規劃成數個區域,例如一個區域放熱水瓶,一個區域放壺、盅、杯等主茶具,一個區域放奉茶盤、茶巾、計時器等物品,一個區域放坐墊,一個區域放相機等個人物品。如此在擺設茶具、收拾茶具時才不致亂成一團。茶具袋若能背在身上,行動起來較為方便。

出國或遠地參加無我茶會,若將茶具作為托運行李,除行李箱要硬殼外,每件茶具還要以衣物加強保護,且避免在箱內碰撞。若沒有把握,最好作為隨身行李攜帶。

无我茶会一壶二杯包紮法

无我茶会一盅二杯包紮法

57.保護茶具的包裝器材有何應留意的地方

無我茶會茶具的包裝器材除安全性外應注意衛生、無味與美觀。「衛生」包括材料、印刷的無污染與便於清洗。包材若有「氣味」會附著於茶具或被茶葉吸收。包材還得要求「美觀」,因為它與茶具為伍,解開與打包的過程都是「泡茶」的一部分,順利、美好與否都影響到參加者的心情。繼續使用商店的包裝材料,或用家裡的毛巾、餐巾來包裹,雖然衛生、氣味可能無慮,但操作過程難免顯得粗糙。

58.帶什麼「茶」才好

這個問題包括帶何種茶與什麼等級的茶。「帶何種茶」要看主辦單位在「公告事項」上怎麼約定,原則是「種類不拘」或哪一大類的茶。至於「帶什麼等級的茶」,不必特意去買什麼等級的茶,但有異味的茶、自己不喜歡的茶是不可以帶去參加無我茶會的,因為那已經不是「無好惡之心」所訴求的範圍。

什麼情況主辦單位才會指定帶特種茶類呢?如這次無我茶會在「早春」召開,茶會的目的又在提醒人們注意春天的到來,公告事項上可能會要求大家都帶綠茶來,當然何種綠茶就不能再設限了。另一種狀況是為追念某人的無我茶會,此人與某種茶有特殊的緣分,於是主辦單位要大家都帶那種茶。

59.「茶」如何攜帶(什麼時候將茶放入壺內攜帶才好)

除非是沖泡「粉末茶」,否則可以在出門前將茶放入壺內,無需另行攜帶一罐茶葉,因為無我茶會要求「精儉」。有人擔心這樣做會不會影響茶葉的品質?如果茶會就在當天進行,而且壺是乾燥的,茶具袋內又沒有其他氣味,茶葉放在壺內是無妨的;若茶會是在隔天以後舉行,那就準備一罐茶葉放在行李箱內,出門參加茶會前才將茶葉放入壺內。

粉末茶一般都在碗內調打而成,而且無法事先放置碗內,所以只得另備容器攜帶。

60.泡兩種茶葉時,茶具如何準備

由於無我茶會講求精儉,所以當主辦單位要求泡兩種茶時,我們不會往「去渣、清洗、再放第二種茶」的方向思考,而是在準備茶具時多準備一把壺,裝另外一種茶,單獨包成一包,茶杯只用一套,不做更換。

從事此「泡兩種茶」的規劃,一定是主辦單位認為要在會場上停留較長的時間,或許是環境適合較長時間的逗留,或因闊別多年的老友相聚。第一種茶與第二種茶中間大概會安排一段休息或其他活動。

61.泡茶用水的準備及對保溫瓶的要求

無我茶會有一條規則,即是「萬事自備,不求主辦單位為你做些什麼。」所以泡茶用水也是自己準備妥帶去。現在旅行用保溫瓶製作得不錯,半天內水溫降得不多,不會影響泡茶效果,但如果超過半天,就要考慮途中有什麼地方可以加水,半天總會遇到吃飯時間,可以利用這個機會裝水。

裝入保溫瓶的水溫要依泡什麼茶而定,而且比所需要的高3 ~5°C左右,因為途中會降一點,而且無我茶會的簡便泡茶法是不溫壺的。將保溫瓶先用熱水涮過再裝,可減少保溫瓶本身吸掉的熱量。若裝入熱水後,發覺保溫瓶外表熱熱的,表示保溫瓶的隔熱效果出了問題,應更換一支使用。

保溫瓶以旅行用的形式為宜,家庭用的大隻保溫瓶不方便。旅行用保溫瓶的大小視該次茶會泡幾杯茶、泡幾道茶、將用掉多少熱水而定。保溫瓶以摔倒不破的材質為佳,倒水時不必拔掉整個瓶塞,只按一下蓋鈕者更佳,因為這種型式的保溫瓶,泡茶時較方便,萬一傾倒時也不至於讓熱水大量潑出。

62.無我茶會就坐方式的探討

無我茶會除特殊情況使用桌椅泡茶外,最方便的是大家席地而坐、席地泡茶。若是席地而坐,用何種坐姿呢?跪坐、盤坐、單盤坐,都可以,但我們鼓勵跪坐,因為這種坐法比較美觀,而且起身奉茶比較方便,只是未曾習慣的人必須預作練習,逐次增加跪坐的時間。如果因為膝蓋不好無法席地而坐,備把小摺椅是被允許的。

無我茶會鼓勵席地而坐,除了方便外,沒有桌椅的阻擋,人與人間更加親密,即使家人一起泡茶,也是同樣道理。席地而坐還可以體會人與大地結合的感覺。

63.坐墊的功能要求

由於無我茶會鼓勵席地而坐,所以坐墊成了必備之物。室外地面常會有小石子,所以坐墊的質地要具彈性又要堅韌,太鬆軟的海綿不適宜。

無我茶會經常外出舉辦,所以使用旅行用茶具,坐墊也要考慮可以摺疊者。將堅韌的海綿墊裁成四塊,裝在縫成四方組合的布套內,就成了可以摺成四摺的坐墊。攤開後的面積,要足夠讓您坐下,如果是採取跪坐的方式,其長度要稍大於跪坐後膝蓋到趾間的距離,寬度要微大於坐下後身體的寬度。

64.茶會前下過雨,或擔心坐在泥地上,應增加什麼配備

地面潮濕,或會場上有泥土地,這時若有一條防潮的薄布鋪在地上,上面再放置坐墊與茶具,就沒有任何煩惱了。

為什麼強調“薄布”,因為若用塑膠布,除非製作得像布料的質感,否則不好看,而且容易滑動。經防潮處理的布料看來較美觀,薄一點容易攜帶與清洗。這塊墊布的面積要能涵蓋坐墊與自己泡茶的地方,但也不能太大,免得佔用的面積超過了主辦單位的規劃,也避免別人走動時踏到或絆著了。

65.無我茶會的服裝與鞋子

參加無我茶會的穿着要配合茶會的性質,若正式的茶會,穿著正式一點的服裝,若一些好友相聚,輕鬆一點無妨。但不論正式與否,方便「就坐」與「泡茶」都是要考慮的,胸前的領帶與飾物要固定在衣服上,免得泡茶、奉茶時撞擊到茶具或浸泡到茶湯。

如果茶會在必須全程脫鞋子的地方舉行,要注意襪子的顏色與厚薄,透明度太強的絲襪,看來會像赤腳的樣子。

不需全程脫鞋子的地方,鞋子也要挑選「穿」、「脫」方便的款式,否則脫鞋坐上坐墊、穿鞋出去奉茶,每次都得鬆綁鞋帶或以手拉扯鞋子,不方便又不雅觀。

66.茶會間安排有茶食享用時,如何準備

茶會間若安排有茶食享用,參加者就必須準備茶食與供應的設備。所謂茶食是指喝茶間搭配的小點心,份量不要多,因為每人都要享用數位茶友帶來的茶食。味道不要太強,太鹹、太辣、太酸,皆與茶味不和諧。不要吃了尚需吐渣的食品,也不要不易咀嚼的食物,這些皆為茶友帶來困擾。為攜帶與拿取的方便,最好每份茶食皆有獨立的包裝。

攜帶多少份數呢?相同於泡茶的杯數,公告事項上寫明帶四杯,就帶四份茶食。若此次茶會尚奉茶給圍觀的來賓,則依公告事項的約定攜帶額外的茶食。

除茶食外,尚需準備放置茶食的器皿。可帶二個小盤子,但為求簡便,可用二張餐巾紙代替,一張放在奉茶盤上放茶食,一張放在泡茶區適當的地方供別人放茶食。若供應的茶食尚需竹刀之類的器物,可另行準備。

67.無我茶會泡茶法舉例之一:小壺茶

無我茶會是攜帶旅行用茶具,以簡便泡茶法泡茶,但茶具的形式與泡法不拘。現在提到的「小壺茶法」與後面提到的「蓋碗茶法」與「末茶法」僅供參考而已。

找到自己的座位後,先將坐墊攤開鋪妥,站在坐墊的後方,將鞋子脫下,坐在坐墊上,茶具袋放在身體的右側。若地上潮濕或泥沙太多,而且帶有墊布,則先鋪上墊布,再對齊墊布的後緣放置坐墊。若未攜帶墊布,在不影響座位秩序下,稍微挪一下位子,以避開不便的地面是被允許的。

取出奉茶盤,放在坐墊的前方,奉茶盤與坐墊間空出個「泡茶區」。取出茶具,若您的包法是二杯與壺包成一包,另二杯與盅包成一包(假設約定泡四杯),則先取出壺的那一包,打開後將杯子與壺移放奉茶盤上,收起包壺巾與杯套;再取出“盅”的那一包,打開包壺巾後就鋪在坐墊與奉茶盤間作為泡茶巾使用。將奉茶盤上的壺拿回泡茶巾上,將新取出的二個杯子放上奉茶盤,將四個杯子在奉茶盤上排妥,將壺與盅在泡茶巾的中間部位擺好。泡茶巾的前端留出空間,作為別人前來奉茶時擺放茶杯的地方,泡茶巾的後端騰出空間,用以放置茶巾與計時器。(茶巾可用紙巾代替,計時器可用手錶代替。)若由於場地的關係或小朋友泡茶,端取奉茶盤不方便,可將奉茶盤改放到泡茶巾的右側,只要將泡茶巾稍微向左移一些即可。

拿出茶巾與計時器,放在壺、盅的下方。拿出熱水瓶,放在泡茶巾的左側。(一般習慣以左手沖水,以右手持壺。)

標準的做法是茶葉已放在壺中,到了約定泡茶的時間,打開熱水瓶,於壺內沖入適量的熱水,計時、靜坐。這時不必操心別人到底怎樣了,讓自己安靜下來,可利用呼吸的次數測定茶葉浸泡的時間,到了差不多該倒茶的時候,核對一下計時器,將茶湯全部倒入盅內。持茶盅將茶分倒入杯。雙手端起奉茶盤,起身出去奉茶,最後一杯等回座後放下奉茶盤,才端放在自己的泡茶巾上。

看大家大致喝完第一道茶,開始沖泡第二道,依舊計時、靜坐、倒茶,然後將茶盅與茶巾移放奉茶盤上,雙手端起奉茶盤出去奉茶,持茶盅將茶倒於自己奉出去的杯子內,萬一有茶水滴落,用茶巾擦乾,回座位後也為自已斟上一杯。

收茶具時,先將自己喝過的杯子用茶巾擦拭一下,端奉茶盤出去收回自己的杯子。回座位後將自己的一杯也放回奉茶盤。

將熱水瓶蓋妥(每次沖水後不必蓋上外蓋,只將內塞出水口關上即可),收回茶具袋內。將茶巾與計時器收妥,從奉茶盤上取下二個杯子,放到泡茶巾上,泡茶巾上的茶壺暫放到奉茶盤上,從茶具袋內取出杯套,將二杯與盅包好收回袋內。從袋內取出另一條包壺巾與杯套,將剩下的二杯與壺收好。接著收拾奉茶盤,最後起身收拾坐墊與墊布。

68.無我茶會泡茶法舉例之二:蓋碗茶

如果您是以蓋碗做為沖泡器,而且將蓋碗、茶盅、杯子分成三部分包裝(也可以將杯子分散與蓋碗、茶盅一起包裝),在鋪好坐墊,放妥奉茶盤後,先拿出「杯子」的一包,打開後將杯子放於奉茶盤上,並二個二個疊放在一起,以便留出部分奉茶盤的空間。接著拿出「茶盅」的一包,打開後將茶盅暫放到奉茶盤上。最後拿出「蓋碗」的一包,打開包壺巾後就鋪在地面上作為泡茶巾,將茶盅拿到泡茶巾上,與蓋碗在泡茶巾的中間排成一列。泡茶巾的前端依然騰出作為別人前來奉茶的地方,泡茶巾的後方放置茶巾與計時器。

茶葉是事先放在蓋碗內的,泡茶時依舊沖水、計時,浸泡到適當濃度,持蓋碗將茶湯一次倒於茶盅內,再持茶盅將茶分倒入杯,端奉茶盤出去奉茶。第二道以後則端茶盅出去,將茶倒於自己奉出去的杯子內。

泡完茶,收茶具時仍依取出時之相反次序,將之一件件收回茶具袋內。

69.無我茶會泡茶法舉例之三:粉末茶(含飲用法)

如果您準備在無我茶會時沖泡粉末茶,最好採用「末茶小杯點茶法」的方式,也就是在茶碗內將末茶打妥後,分倒於小杯內奉給茶友們喝。這時茶碗與杯子可以包成第一包,末茶罐第二包,茶杓與茶筅第三包。依前述放妥坐墊、奉茶盤,逐次拿出第二包與第三包,將末茶罐與茶杓、茶筅放於奉茶盤上。拿出第一包,將包壺巾鋪在地上作為泡茶巾,茶碗放在泡茶巾的正中央,末茶罐拿到茶碗的左側,茶杓與茶筅拿到茶碗的右側,茶杯放於奉茶盤上。

泡茶時,取適量的末茶於碗內,沖水、打茶,持茶碗將茶分倒入杯(這時的茶碗應是「有流茶碗」,也就是設計有倒嘴的茶碗),端奉茶盤出去奉茶。第二道以後,將茶打好,以奉茶盤端碗出去奉茶。

到了最後的收拾茶具,擦拭杯子前,倒些水涮一下茶碗,涮碗的水再沖一下自己喝末茶的杯子,免得碗與杯內黏附太多的末茶。沖完杯子的茶湯作為「回味湯」喝掉,一杯喝不完,喝二杯。被奉末茶的人也可以這樣做,倒一些熱水于盛末茶的杯子內涮一下,喝下茶湯後再擦拭杯子。

70.上述泡茶法舉例,為何都沒有提到溫壺、燙杯等動作

因為無我茶會是使用簡便的泡茶法,所以省略了置茶、賞茶、聞香、燙杯……等動作。置茶改在出門前就將茶葉放入壺中。賞茶、聞香除供泡茶者作為判斷茶葉沖泡法的參考資料外,不讓客人為之,一方面是因為若全面實施,過程太過繁瑣,二方面是加重「泡茶者要把茶泡好」的意念。泡茶者泡茶前應對茶有充分的瞭解,所以必須仔細觀賞,尤其對置茶量的判斷;二、三道以後對浸泡時間的掌握很重要,可利用每次沖泡前的「聞香」判斷所需浸泡的時間。溫壺的主要目的在減少壺身吸收水溫,省略後只要提高備水時的溫度或稍微延長茶葉浸泡的時間,就可以補救過來。燙杯的目的在於減少茶湯降溫的速度,但以無我茶會奉茶的距離與所需時間來看,端到客人面前,等到客人飲用時還不至於變得太冷,所以省略無妨。

71.無我茶會對「夜晚茶會燈」的要求

晚上舉辦無我茶會是要提醒人們欣賞夜色之美,每人自備一盞個人照明

用燈,這盞「夜晚茶會燈」的要求如下:

a.便於攜帶,而且安全無慮。若是搭飛機,應考慮所準備的燃料是否可以獲准上機。

b.每人自行準備,甚至自己創作,避免大家採購同一型式的燈具。

c.考慮到防風的功能,尤其是使用蠟燭與油燈的時候。

d.燈光要能朝下照射到茶具,尤其是壺口,否則看不清楚沖水的高度。不要依賴手拿著燈具照射(如使用手電筒),否則放下後,一不小心就照射到別人的臉上。

e.續燃力要在一個半小時以上,因為從備具起就要點亮,不能到了要泡茶的時候才打開,否則「茶具觀摩與聯誼」的時間太黯淡。若使用小電池,可多帶一組,以便半途更換。

72.參加無我茶會應達成多少目的

參加無我茶會的主要目的是透過茶會的進行,體會無尊卑之分、無報償之心、無好惡之心、求精進之心等的茶道精神,並享受無需指揮、靜默不語等的群體律動之美。若能專心於如此境界的把握與體認,茶會目的足矣。

若能於會前的「茶具觀摩與聯誼時間」、會後的其他活動裡認識更多的朋友、與老友敘敘舊,當是參加茶會的另一項收穫。

有些人認為老遠帶著茶具來泡這麼幾道茶不划算,若再遇上他所參加的茶會沒能將無我茶會的特質表現,更難免有失落感。

如果要使茶會更加豐富,可在茶會結束後繼續安排一些活動,如演講、音樂會、登山等。

73.如何輕鬆愉快地享受無我茶會

要能輕鬆愉快地享受無我茶會,除不要有太多社交性的目的外,還要有下列的預先準備:

a.熟知無我茶會的規則。如此才不至於發生錯誤而影響心情。

b.備妥所需的道具,而且功能完善。如果茶盅斷水功能不良,奉茶時茶湯到處滴落;濾渣功能不佳,不是茶湯倒得不順暢,就是茶湯裡的茶渣很多;坐墊堅韌度不夠,就坐時小石子刺痛了腳。這些都會讓您無法安心參與茶會。

c.熟練泡茶技藝。知道沖多少水方夠所需杯數的湯量;怎樣的溫度、如何泡法才能得出高品質的茶湯……,否則把茶泡壞了,抱歉都來不及。

d.讓自己坐得舒服。不論採取何種坐姿,都要預作練習,使自己坐立自如,否則雙腳麻痛,如何輕鬆愉快。

74.無我茶會的茶具就是「旅行用茶具」

為自己準備一套「無我茶會茶具」,不但可以參加無我茶會,也是一套「旅行用茶具」,出門旅行就可以帶著隨行。

如果只是一個人旅行,還可以將元件簡化成「一壺二杯一熱水」,二個杯子用杯套套著,倒扣在壺嘴與壺把上,用包壺巾包紮起來,熱水以小型旅行用保溫瓶裝著。

在飛機上、火車裡,或拜訪朋友時,將包壺巾打開,鋪在桌面上作為泡茶巾,壺擺在泡茶巾的中央,兩個杯子排列在壺的前面。茶葉已事先放入壺中,打開熱水瓶,沖水、計時(用計時器、手錶、現場的掛鐘或心算),適當濃度後,來回將茶湯全倒於兩個杯子內(要先知道沖多少水才可一次將茶倒光,來回倒茶的目的是使濃度平均)。一人獨飲時,先喝第一杯,再喝第二杯;拜訪客人時,一杯奉給客人;飛機上、火車裡,旁邊坐著一位陌生人,另一杯就奉給他。這樣泡個三回茶,將茶具收好,繼續前程。回旅館後,將壺、杯、杯套、包壺巾清洗晾乾,第二天出門時,再放一些茶葉入壺,「一壺二杯一熱水」放入背包,又是一天有茶為伴的日子。

  (1941)

無我茶會Sans Self Tea Gathering-Chapter 5-Signing in, Drawing of Lots and Taking one’s Seats -蔡荣章Rong-tsang Tsai

《無我茶會Sans Self Tea Gathering 180條》

蔡荣章著Author:Rong-tsang Tsai

ISBN 978-957-9690-08-9,“无我茶会Sans Self Tea Gathering 180” ,First edition: 1999.9, Second edition: 2010.9.《无我茶会180条》,1999.9第一版,2010.9第二版.台北陆羽茶艺股份有限公司.2012.05.20修订版.-English Translator : Katherine Yip,英语翻译:叶德明.

Chapter 5  Signing in, Drawing of Lots and Taking one’s Seats

38. Signing-in Procedure: drawing of lots, registry signing and others

The signing-in procedure includes registration, time synchronizing, drawing of lots and registry signing, and in some occasions, stamping the participants’ San-self Tea Gathering passbook.

Registration helps differentiate pre-event registrations from on-the-spot registrations, and whether a participant needs to pay. Identification tags will then be issued. If it is agreed that tea be offered to the onlooking public, the organizers will also distribute a certain number of temporary tea cups, or custom-ordered souvenir tea cups to each participant. This should be done swiftly without wasting time on any unnecessary steps.

Drawing of lots decides the place of each participant. In general, these can be small pieces of paper with a number on each.  Fold each into a small square and put them in a bag. If preferred, the lots can be done in such a manner that they can become keepsake when the tea gathering is over.  The participants are then required to sign in the registry for record purpose; meanwhile, as seats are determined by drawing of lots, it will be meaningful to match the signed names with respective seat numbers.

39.  Shortening the drawing and signing processes in the event of a large attendance

To save time, the organizer can set up a few counters for the drawing of lots at the venue.  Place some paper strips next to these drawing counters. Each participant is to sign on a paper strip and write the respective drawn number on it.  Put the signed strips into a ‘signed paper strips collection bag’. At the end of the tea gathering, just affix the signed strips of paper in a book according to the order of the numbers to produce a registry.

A potential problem would be time wasted in fumbling for pens. Just make sure each person conducting the drawing of lots has a pen tied with a piece of string. Participants can then quickly get hold of the pen and sign. Do remember to use heavier grammage of paper for the strips.

29.無我茶會的座號籤條

40. Handling participants signing in upon arrival

Controlling the number of participants becomes critical if there are a lot of participants with many signing up in groups, and there are both pre-event and on-the-spot registrations. In this case, make sure all participants obtain their identification tags at the registration counter before proceeding to the drawing of lots.  However, the workload will be very heavy at the registration counter, which may cause delay. Under these circumstances, try issue identification tags to pre-event registered participants who have confirmed their attendance ahead of time. They will be considered signed-in participants and can proceed directly to the draw of lots.

41. Controlling the number of participants and seat arrangement

During signing-in, personnel at the registration counter, the lots drawing counter and those who attend to seat arrangement must work very closely with each other. For example, if there are signs that there will be a lot more people joining at the last minute, the number of seats for the scheduled 300 participants will have to be increased to 350. Set the extra 50 lots aside. When the personnel at the registration counter confirm that there is such a need, they will have to inform the personnel conducting the drawing of lots to add the reserved 50 lots into the bag.  Meanwhile, if there is no such need, the personnel in charge of seat arrangement have to be informed to eliminate the extra 50 seats. Depending on the venue, if it is impossible to add or remove the entire 50 seats at the end of the loop formation, try set aside 50 lots at intervals among the 350 lots to be drawn.

42. What if I want to bring along some friends who have not prepared any tea ware?

What should I do if I come across a friend who wants to join me after learning that I am on my way to a San-self Tea Gathering? It will be hard to turn him down. Likewise, some participants may bring their family members along. In theory, these ad hoc participants can only observe from the side because they have not brought any tea ware. However, it is possible to let them draw lots, be seated among participants and be offered tea. The difference is, he and the three fellow drinkers on his left will have one cup less than the others (assuming that each person makes four cups of tea).

If the number of these ad hoc participants is small, they can be considered as participants in the way described above. However, if the number is too large (but try not to exceed 1/3 of the number of tea-brewing participants),  make sure that any two ad hoc participants without tea ware are not sitting next to each other; this is to avoid too few cups of tea for several participants on their left. If such arrangement happens after lots are drawn, the personnel in charge will have to relocate the second ad hoc participant and make the distribution more even.

43. Seating arrangement for ‘non tea-brewing’ participants

San-self Tea Gathering requires each participant to brew tea – this is a key principle. There are exceptions though. If the gathering is held in honour of certain guests who are not familiar with tea brewing, special arrangement will have to be made. Take out the number of lots equivalent to the number of these guests from the total pool of lots for all participants. This forms another pool of lots which only non tea-brewing participants draw from. In this case, it is acceptable even if the number of guests exceed 1/3, since all those present understand that the tea gathering is held for a special purpose. Having said that, if the number of non tea-brewing participants doubles that of other participants, it may mean each non tea-brewing guest will only be offered one cup of tea. As such, seating arrangement for these two types of participants will have to be attended to with extra care to avoid anyone not being offered any tea at all.

44. Is there a need for ‘connecting lots’ in the event that some participants come with their young children?

When we mention ‘participants come with their young children’, we are referring to participants with children who brew tea. Our experience shows that children as young as three years old are capable of the task. For children who can take care of themselves, it would be the best for them to draw lots on their own; this goes with the spirit of a San-self Tea Gathering.  However, if adult assistance is required, participants can put in the request at the time of registration and ask for ‘connecting lots’, which will be drawn by the adult participants. ‘Connecting lots’ are basically lots of two consecutive numbers tied together. These lots should be prepared according to the situation of registration; any extra ones can be untied and used as ordinary lots.

’Connecting lots’ are strictly for adult participants with young children. No such requests from among adult participants will be entertained, as it goes against the spirit of San-self Tea Gathering. Meanwhile, switching places with the others after the drawing of lots is not acceptable.

45. How to ensure ‘time synchronizing’?

All San-self Tea Gatherings follow pre-agreed schedule. There are no designated personnel to facilitate the flow of the tea gathering. The event flow must be in sync among participants; timing is crucial, and they will rely on their watches to ensure this. There should be a clock, which serves as the official timekeeper, beside the registration counter or held up by a person, with a signage: ‘Please synchronize your watch with this clock’.

46. Should there be any ‘facilitators’?

For large-scale San-self Tea Gatherings, some people suggest that we can recruit volunteers to guide participants along at different spots of the venue. We would, instead, encourage self-help made possible by ‘pre-event preparation’ and ‘training’. This ensures that a San-self Tea Gathering is carried out with minimal manpower and resources, in line with what it aspires to. In any event, no newcomers could participate without any idea of San-self Tea Gatherings; participants would have been exposed to certain training of the Way of Tea and attended a related briefing.

47. Should there be personnel assigned to deal with unforeseen circumstances?

When brewing has begun at a San-self Tea Gathering, all members of the organizing team will return to their respective seats and participate, with the exception of the members of the audio and video crew.  However, in a sizeable gathering, especially those with international participants, a couple of personnel could remain at the counter to attend to unexpected events.

48. How to deal with number plates of absentees?

When the ‘tea ware appreciation and networking’ session reaches halftime, personnel responsible for venue setup will have to collect the number plates (including souvenirs) from the seats of absentees in order to keep the venue tidy.

49. When should members of the organizing team be seated at the tea gathering?

With the exception of the video and audio crew, other members of the organizing team, including personnel for venue setup and registration will have to take their seats. They would have drawn lots, identified their seats and laid out their tea ware before they began carrying out their assigned duties. When the ‘tea ware appreciation and networking’ session reaches halftime, the registration counter will be closed, and these team members will return to their seats ready for tea brewing.

50. What would happen to latecomers?

When the ‘tea ware appreciation and networking’ session reaches halftime, the registration counter will be closed. To maintain order of the venue and avoid interruption, latecomers will not be able to join and brew tea. They will observe from the side, or take the initiative to assist at the counter and attend to unexpected events.

51. Seating arrangement for performers and presenters.

For San-self Tea Gathering with briefing arranged for the public, the presenter should be standing away from the tea-brewing participants. The position of the performers will have to take into consideration the wind direction and audio setup. Their places will have to be planned ahead, and exempted from drawing of lot. Their places will still be represented by numbered lots. However, the lots will be handed over to them by the personnel handling registration, instead of being drawn from the bag. When the performers have got hold of the lots, they will need to sign in the registry for record purpose.

Reserve some places near the registration counter or with easy accessibility for participants who have trouble moving around. The numbered lots of these places can be kept by the registration personnel and directly issued to those in need.

52. If for reasons beyond our control, the tea gathering cannot be held as scheduled, what remedial measures can be taken?

San-self Tea Gatherings are expected to take place as scheduled. In the rare occasion when, for reasons beyond our control (such as flight delay affecting the joint organizers), it is obvious that the gathering could not take place at the agreed time, the organizer would have to handle it according to the estimated duration of the delay: for delay above an hour, try inform all participants and reschedule the gathering; for delay within an hour, put up a notice at the registration counter regarding the reason for the delay and the revised time.  If some participants have taken their seats, it would be necessary to announce the delay through the PA system, or having someone going around the venue with a signboard. Make very clear when the tea-brewing is going to begin, because the ‘tea ware appreciation and networking’ session that comes before it can take place first; whereas, the programme to take place after tea brewing will have to be delayed accordingly.

  (2102)

第五章 報到時段-蔡荣章

《無我茶會Sans Self Tea Gathering 180條》

蔡荣章著Author:Rong-tsang Tsai

ISBN978-957-9690-08-9 “无我茶会Sans Self Tea Gathering180,” First edition: 1999.9, Second edition: 2010.9《无我茶会180条》1999.9第一版 2010.9第二版 台北陆羽茶艺股份有限公司.2012.05.20修订版

第五章 報到時段

38.抽籤、簽名等報到手續

無我茶會的報到手續包括註冊、對時、抽籤與簽名,或加上在無我茶會護照上蓋戳章。

註冊是查明與會者是屬於事先報名還是現場報名,需不需要繳費?然後發給識別證。如果約定奉茶給圍觀者,還要發給一定數量的臨時性杯子或做為紀念品的特製杯子。這些動作應力求簡便,可省略的步驟儘量省略。

抽籤是抽座位的號碼籤,用以決定每人的泡茶位置,一般以小紙片寫上編號摺成小方塊放進籤袋裡即可。但也可以將此籤製作得具有紀念性,會後留著作回憶。簽名是為了留下紀錄,由於無我茶會以抽籤決定座位,所以簽名最好與座次結合更具意義。

39.人多時,如何縮短抽籤與簽名的時間

大型無我茶會可多設幾處抽籤的地方以節省時間,簽名的方式可改為在「號碼籤」旁附設「簽名條」,簽名條上同時打上座號,簽完名後將簽名條撕下,丟回「簽名條回收袋」,等茶會結束後,將簽名條依編號貼成一份簽名簿。

這樣的做法可能因找不到簽名用筆而耽誤時間,解決之道是負責抽籤的人每人手裡抓一把原子筆,每支原子筆用較長的細繩子綁著。這樣大家就可以很快地拿到筆簽名,但簽名條要用厚一點的紙張製作。

29.無我茶會的座號籤條

40.報到人數的掌握

人數多,而且是分成許多單位集體報名,又是有一部分人事先報名,有一部分人現場報名,這種情況,人數的掌握變得很重要。一定要設法讓與會者都通過註冊處,取得識別證後再參加抽籤入座。但這時註冊處的工作負擔很重,且容易耽誤時間,所以事先已報完名,確定出席者儘量提前發給識別證,且將這部分視為已報到的人員,直接進行抽籤。

41.人數與座位的控制

報到時段,註冊處、抽籤處與場地座位安排的人員必須密切聯繫。例如預計三百人的茶會,當天的種種跡象顯現會有不少臨時參加的人,於是座位規畫了三百五十人,其中五十個號碼籤暫時不放入籤袋內,待註冊組人員發現確實需要時,再通知抽籤組的人將預留的籤條放入。若發現無此需要,報到時間的尾聲就可以通知場地組人員拿掉那五十個座位。如果場地規畫上無法做到尾端整批五十個座位的增減,可以從三百五十個座位中,平均抽掉五十個號碼籤備用。

42.想讓沒帶茶具的朋友也一起參加茶會,怎麼辦

在路上遇見朋友,他聽說您要去參加無我茶會,吵著也要去,怎麼辦?只好帶他去。另外也難免有與會者帶著家人一同前往,這種狀況下,他們都沒準備泡茶,也沒帶茶具。照理只好讓他們一旁參觀,但也可以讓他們抽籤,坐在隊伍裡面接受奉茶,只是他與他左邊的三位朋友少掉一杯茶而已(若每人泡茶四杯)。

這種情形如果人數不多,就如同上述,視為與會人員即可,但如果人數太多,(但仍不宜超過泡茶人數的三分之一),應避免二個以上未帶茶具者坐在一起,否則他們左鄰幾個人的被奉茶杯數會變得太少。萬一抽籤後發現有這種現象,場地組的人應主動將第二個未帶茶具者往他處調一下,使間隔的人數平均一些。

43.「不泡茶者」入座的方法

與會者都要泡茶,這是無我茶會的基本原則,但如果我們以無我茶會的方式歡迎某些人,而這些人又都不熟悉泡茶,這時就可以從全部座位號碼牌中平均抽出“不泡茶者”的張數,由「不泡茶者」抽籤入座。這時不泡茶者的人數即使超過三分之一也無妨,因為大家都知道本次無我茶會有特殊的任務。但如果不泡茶者是泡茶者的二倍,就要考慮到每位不泡茶者只有一杯茶可喝,而且兩組座號的排列要特別小心,以免有人喝不到茶。

44.帶著幼兒一起參加,應否設置「母子簽」

這裡所說的「帶著幼兒一起參加無我茶會」是指小朋友也參加泡茶的意思,經驗告訴我們,三歲的小朋友就可以參加泡茶。如果小朋友有能力照顧自己,讓他們獨自抽籤入座最符合無我茶會的精神,如果尚需要大人的協助,可以在報名參加時告訴主辦單位請他們準備一些「母子簽」,由大人代表抽取。所謂「母子簽」就是連續二個號碼的座位簽綁在一起,依報名情形,酌量準備一些,多出來的還可以解開作為普通簽使用。

「母子簽」只適合攜帶幼兒時使用,若有大人要求使用是不可以的,因為違背了無我茶會的基本精神。抽完簽後與別人對調位置也是不對的。

45.「對時」如何實施

無我茶會是依事先排定的行程進行,期間沒人從事指揮,所以大家手錶上的時刻一致是很重要的。報到的時候,可以在註冊處旁放只時鐘,或由一個人拿著,上面寫著:「請對時」。

 46.要設「引導人員」嗎

有人建議在大型無我茶會時,徵集一些志願者在各角落指導與會者。我們認為應儘量透過各種「事先的準備」與「訓練」,讓茶會在極簡單的人力與物力之下順利進行,這是無我茶會所要表現的境界。況且參加無我茶會的人一定參加過茶道訓練與無我茶會的說明會,不是任何人初次見面就可以參加的。

47.茶會進行間要不要有專人負責臨時發生的事情

無我茶會開始泡茶後,所有的工作人員都回到自己的座位參與泡茶,除了攝錄影與音響的人員之外。但大型的無我茶會,尤其是國際性的場合,可保留一兩位在服務臺上負責解決臨時發生的事情。

48.缺席的座位號碼牌如何處理

「茶具觀摩與聯誼」的時間過了一半,場地組的人每人負責收回自己負責區域內缺席者的座號牌(含紀念品),這樣會場看來整潔些。

49.工作人員何時入場

除了攝錄影、音響的工作人員外,其他如場地、報到處的人員都要參加泡茶的。報到處人員應提前抽好簽,將自己的茶具擺設妥當,然後開始執行任務,等「茶具觀摩與聯誼」的時間過了一半,報到處停止作業,回到自己的座位準備泡茶。

50.遲到的人怎麼辦

「茶具觀摩與聯誼」的時間過了一半,報到處停止作業後,遲到的人就不可以再加入泡茶了,免得影響會場秩序。遲到的人只能在旁參觀或者自動作為「留守」人員,協助解決會場臨時發生的事情。

51.表演者、解說員等的座位安排

無我茶會設有對外解說時,解說員的位置不在泡茶座位之列,至於表演者,由於有風向、音響設備等考慮,所以座位應該事先安排,不必列入抽籤的範圍,也就是座位號碼照編,但號碼簽不放入簽袋內,而是由「註冊組」工作人員直接交給表演者。表演者拿到簽條,依舊完成簽名手續,免得在「無我茶會紀」的簿子上找不到他們的蹤影。

與會者中若有行動不便者,可以保留一些較接近報到處,或就坐比較容易的位子,這些座位的號碼簽也直接交給註冊組人員,由他們發放。

52.因無可奈何的原因使得茶會無法依原定時間進行,如何補救

依事先排定的時間進行,是無我茶會的基本原則,但若遇到無可奈何的原因,如合辦單位的班機誤點,判定已無法依原訂的時間進行,這時主辦單位可依延誤時間的長短做不同的處置:延誤時間在一小時以上,儘量通知與會人員,修改茶會時間;若延誤時間在一個小時以內,只好在註冊處公告延誤的原因及修改的時間;若已有人開始就座,就得透過廣播或舉牌繞行通知。特別說清楚「開始泡茶」的時間改在什麼時候,因為泡茶前的「茶具觀摩與聯誼」可以先進行,泡茶以後的各項進度也只是跟在泡茶之後。

  (1771)

《現代茶道思想》.目录~介绍-蔡荣章著

茶道书籍介绍:《現代茶道思想》

出版:台湾商务印书馆(20130301

ISBN9789570528152

作者:蔡荣章

目录~介绍

现代茶道思想蔡荣章
序 茶道思想引出茶文化方向
第一篇 茶與藝術
1 賞石與泡茶之間
2 茶道裡的美學概念
3 茶道與抽象藝術
4 從「茶道學習」到「抽象概念」的產生
5 茶道上純品茗的抽象之美
6 茶道空寂之美
7 深談空寂
8 茶道藝術家與茶湯作品
9 從通俗茶道到純茶道
10 茶湯,這件泡茶者的藝術作品
11 茶道藝術的本體及其應用
12 茶文化裡的美與藝術
13 無我茶會表現的茶道藝術
14 從泡茶師到茶道藝術家
15 茶道裡的藝術內涵

第二篇 茶道流派
1 論茶道的規格性與風格差異
2 談茶道的「空寂」
3 「茶道流派」的爭議
4 茶道的劇本人人寫
5 我走過的茶道之路

第三篇 茶道境界
1 茶道的重心在修身而不在茶嗎
2 茶道上的牽強附會之說
3 是「撐船漢」還是「弄潮人」
4 道是方法.道是路.道是境界.道是目的.道是新生命的起點
5 茶道的獨特境界-無
6 茶道的利他觀念
7 茶道裡的無何有之鄉
8 茶,永遠有其苦澀的一面
9 茶道的內涵
10 茶道兩張結構圖
11 茶道兩張結構圖(之圖)
12 讓自己泡在茶湯三個月
13 支撐茶文化的三根支柱
14 茶湯是茶道的靈魂

第四篇 泡茶
1 學會削皮才能吃到肉
2 泡茶師箴言
3 泡好茶的涵義
4 我們在泡茶上所下的功夫有沒有輸給學琴的人
5 泡茶的三個基本觀念
6 各種泡茶情況的茶水比例
7 茶湯標準濃度的界定
8 評鑑泡茶法與品飲泡茶法
9 車輪式泡茶練習法
10 茶席桌面四區塊
11 泡茶者的服裝
12 不穿戲服泡茶
13 小壺茶法的實事求是

第五篇 茶人與稱謂
1 茶人的「茶道生活」與音樂家的「音樂生活」
2 「茶人」一詞的應用
3 茶界稱謂
4 泡茶師檢定怎麼考
5 茶界修道者頒證
6 自家泡茶師與職業泡茶師

第六篇 市場與推廣
1 從泡茶與思想帶動茶文化發展
2 茶的文化性值多少錢
3 茶是容易保存的食品
4 茶與文化創意產業
5 某某茶在奢侈品行列嗎
6 品茗館專業泡茶席的設計
7 「品茗館泡茶席」建構說明
8 論小包裝茶的功過
9 茶館復興
10 泡茶師為客人泡茶的品茗館
11 茶葉市場與茶湯市場
12 將每批茶的泡法告訴客人

第七篇 品賞與評鑑
1 茶湯品飲之內涵分析
2 喝好茶、泡好茶、用好具的意義
3 賞茶、評茶、品茶
4 好茶好茶具有其絕對價值嗎
5 種茶難製茶更難喝茶難上加難
6 茶,讓人深思的一杯茶
7 茶,它的面部表情
8 茶,它的茶湯表情
9 茶,它的身材與體態
10 茶湯香、味、性的認識、欣賞與介紹
11 移愛入湯移愛入人

第八篇 茶器
1 初學者買什麼壺
2 從泡茶電水壺的誕生?起
3 計時器使用的爭議
4 需要用雙杯喝茶嗎
5 從茶車到品茗館的茶席
6 泡茶盤變遷史
7 茶荷與茶盅的誕生
8 壺盅你儂我儂
9 旅行茶具的先行部隊
10 可愛的隨身瓶

第九篇 教育
1 「茶學書庫分類索引」之建立
2 用現代的語言說現代的茶道
3 茶道展演與茶藝歌舞
4 高校茶文化系要不要教茶藝歌舞
5 我們要有個現代茶思想網
6 從三國茶道到四國茶道
7 讀茶文化系,畢業去賣茶
8 「茶思想研討」的課上些什麼
9 人人有權知道茶藝術

第十篇 識茶
1 喝茶普及化與茶葉名稱的關係
2 規格茶與標示茶
3 製茶一些用語的界定
4 述說老茶
5 焙火茶
6 泡壞了不改茶的真面目
7 茶,新生命的誕生
8 茶,它的生死辯
9 波動影響著茶湯

第十一篇 品茗環境
1 茶席風格的表現
2 勿走錯茶席設計之路
3 草庵式茶席的意義
4 水盂在茶席上的地位
5 煮水器要放泡茶桌上嗎
6 茶如何在茶桌上表現主角地位
7 茶席設置與茶席設計
8 茶席,有茶道就夠了
9 唯要聲音與光影陪伴茶
10 輔茶器站著還是躺著好

第十二篇 茶會
1 無我茶會基本架構
2 現代版曲水茶宴
3 茶席設置與茶會舉辦
4 茶道展演要看些什麼
5 從獨飲到千人茶會
6 無我茶會有用嗎
7 無我茶會的傳播,師生對話錄
8 「接力泡」茶會如何進行
9 茶道藝術家的聯合茶湯作品欣賞會
10 茶湯作品欣賞會與宴會式茶會之別
11 茶道藝術家的茶會作品
12 無我茶會為何非要單邊奉茶不可
13 茶道藝術家的個人茶湯作品欣賞會

跋—蔡榮章茶道思想的經緯

现代茶道思想蔡荣章

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  (1844)

马来西亚拉茶–Teh Tarik-许玉莲

马来西亚拉茶–Teh Tarik

许玉莲

201303月发表于中国福建《问道》杂志

现在无论当地或外地,只要谈起拉茶大家就说它是马来西亚国饮、任何时刻从豪华酒店至大街小巷都可以喝得到。又以为马来西亚国民天天都需要这样手舞足蹈「拉」一番才能喝上一杯拉茶,这种夸张说法只是旅游局促销成功的印象,并不能够完全地反映真实的生活。本篇是作者针对拉茶种种做出的实况报告。

拉茶」这个名称如何来?

从马来西亚国语直译而来,先有马来西亚国语发音的「Teh Tarik」,Teh:茶,Tarik:拉,才有华语「拉茶」。

马来西亚teh tarik

拉茶都在哪里贩卖?

在「Mamak Stall」。「Mamak Stall」是马来西亚地方俗语,意思指印度裔回教徒开的街边摊,专卖回教徒食物。Mamak:印度泰米尔语,指「大叔」之意,「Stall」:英语,指街边摊之意,华语直译「嫲嫲档」,是搭配着roti canai(飞饼)、肉、菜、饭一起贩卖。这些印度裔回教徒的先辈多从南印度移民至马国。二000年代之前,拉茶还没有那么商业化之前,要喝拉茶就一定得去嫲嫲档喝,因为只有他们(印度裔回教徒)才懂得怎样做呀。现代有些人也将「Mamak Stall」泛指马来西亚印度或马来民族食摊,拉茶是谁做、在哪里喝都无所谓了。

马来西亚teh tarik

 

马来西亚teh tarik

 

马来西亚teh tarik

拉茶为什么要「」?

拉茶前辈指出,因为茶冲泡出来后有点烫嘴巴,加上南印度天气炙热,所以就把茶翻来覆去与另一个杯对倒,让茶散热后才喝。一九六0、一九七0年代间,他们在食摊上卖茶时,茶就叫做「Teh」,是没有被冠上「Tarik」这个字眼的,因为「Tarik」只是一个附加的动作,反而有人直接把它叫「Sejuk」(马国语:冷之意思),将茶汤对倒的目的是为了让它凉就反映在此字眼。

现今许多人大谈拉茶要「拉」,是为了让茶汤与奶通过如此撞击后,使其分子能够充分溶合在一起,而且弄出许多泡沫,茶喝起来才香滑云云,这样说可能有它的道理,但那已不属于原本拉茶面貌,那是比较接近现代开发的「泡沫茶」形态了。他们还特别规定两杯对倒时的距离要至少一米、规定要「拉」七次才好喝,把「拉茶」是否好喝的主因放在「拉」,这种引导是无稽之谈,我们认为不对,举例:同类型的奶茶如海南人开的传统咖啡店里的「Teh」、香港人的鸳鸯奶茶,二者并无使用「拉」手法,但香浓醇滑程度绝对不输。

拉茶怎么做?怎么叫做好喝?

我曾观察过好几家人如何做拉茶,如孟沙(地名)一家印度人经营的素食餐厅、吉隆坡中华大会堂傍边的嫲嫲档、PJ(地名)星洲日报报馆附近的嫲嫲档、焦赖消防局对面嫲嫲档以及Jalan Gasing(地名)的The Lotus印度餐厅等。今以The Lotus为例写出他们的做法,The Lotus属于家族生意,于1988年开业。

选茶叶:使用拼配碎红茶(拼配碎红茶详情参阅作者另一篇文章:马来西亚「Kopitiam」的「Teh」)当地有茶商自印度、斯里兰卡进口,自行再拼配后才卖给他们。一般用斯里兰卡红茶混合当地红茶。

用水:

煮滚热水。

用具:

有柄不锈钢罐(约1000cc大),2把(A、B)

有柄棉纱布过滤网(圆口直径约12cm大,纱布长约18cm)1把

有柄不锈钢杯(约400cc大),1把(C)

玻璃茶杯,1把

材料:

炼奶

全脂淡奶

做法:

一.将适量(约纱布网的2/3量)茶叶放入棉纱布过滤网。

二.一手提棉纱布过滤网,一手提热水(用A有柄不锈钢罐装)冲入网内,让茶汤即时流出,以B有柄不锈钢罐接,不实施浸泡。茶汤在B罐内备用。

三.取C有柄不锈钢杯,一手取奶罐(已开了两个小洞),直接倒一点奶入C杯,够了,一手拿汤匙止住奶的流出(注意有二种奶,先放哪种并无前后次序,不必规定)。

四.采用上述三的手势,换另一种奶做。

五.一手取B罐,把茶汤倒入C杯与奶混合,然后来回对倒数回。

六. 把已做好的茶(C杯),倒入玻璃茶杯。

马来西亚teh tarik

细则研讨:

一.棉纱布过滤网的材质:要清楚知道布质的疏密程度,那影响出茶汤的速度。

二.茶叶的细碎程度:茶叶的形状与布质的通水速度决定出汤的快慢,即决定了茶的浓度。

三.茶汤要泡多少来备用:由泡茶师傅泡了算,最好能够达到要一杯做一杯的效果,这样才可以保持茶的现泡现饮之完美味道,观察良久,他们似乎很少失手。这里他用到另一个较小型的「有柄不锈钢杯」来做茶,因和玻璃茶杯差不多大小,故可用作检测茶量,那是挺聪明的做法。偶尔多了一点点,他将茶暂时搁进装热水的A罐。

四.怎样判断茶的浓度:用眼睛看。茶量,水温是固定的,但每次出汤量不一样,有时一、二杯,有时二、三杯,泡茶师傅也没有去细算到底泡了几杯,他也只能用视觉观察。当他认为茶汤不够浓,他就会拿起那罐茶往滤网的茶叶再冲一次,直至满意。

五.要拉多高,两杯距离要多远:泡茶师傅自自然然在工作、没有人去拍照时,大约就是在眼前这么高,料理桌桌面与眼睛之间的一个距离。有人跑前去拍照,他就会离开料理桌,双手尽量拉开成180度,下手抵膝盖,上手高于头顶,秀给观众看。一会儿他就会恢复原状了。现在充斥市场的各种「拉」动作,是拉茶商业化之后,属于表演的部分。

六.要拉多少下:不要问,这里没有人注重要拉多少下的啦,它不会影响拉茶的味道的啦。第五、第六点很多时候是泡茶师傅给传媒硬硬迫出答案来的,原本并无任何规定的事情,但有时传媒不满足那么「简单」的答案,就硬硬套上一些道理将原来的概貌掩住,变成人云亦云了。

七.拉茶做出来之后,需要有很多泡沫吗:拉茶的滋味都在茶汤里,而不是在泡沫,有没有泡沫无所谓。有泡沫特别滑吗,我们不认为这样,拉茶喝起来口感滑不滑还要看茶质好不好。

八.影响拉茶味道主要原因:茶叶不实施浸泡,只让热水流过,此法茶叶要多、水要滚烫,得出又稠又浓醇茶汤,调和入奶滋味一流。我曾经试过好几次在家里用平常方法浸泡出来的茶汤做,始终味道不够厚。还有不可忘记产地和茶叶拼配法,也曾经试过购得不同地方的茶叶拿来做,味道单薄之极,较涩。

九.用哪一种奶去调和茶非常重要,牛奶的种类千变万化,不要用错奶,用错了就不搭调,不到位。喝英国下午茶要用鲜奶,做拉茶则要加入炼奶和全脂淡奶。有人认为,哎呀我放一种就好了,不行,味道差好多。

(20130220完稿)

  (10616)

俄罗斯茶文化-许玉莲

俄罗斯茶文化

许玉莲

俄茶文化主茶器是什么?

第一:Samovar煮水/煮茶器

说俄罗斯茶文化,需先说他们的茶具,茶具里最不可或缺的主要设备,用来煮热水的就叫做Samovar(茶炊),当俄罗斯人说“让我们来围着Samovar而坐”,意思即“让我们来喝杯茶”。但Samovar又不止是煮水器而已,它还有煮茶的功能,还可以同时煮二种茶。

茶炊的造型是可以让茶壶“窝”在一起的:茶炊底部是个瓮形的煮水器,顶部有个特别座位,让泡茶的茶壶坐在那里,而泡草药茶的茶壶则坐在这支茶壶的顶部上。

茶炊的煮水器,中间是一管垂直管道,管道可燃烧木材或木炭使水煮热,然后热水可在这里保持温度一整天,不够水时就加。煮水器不必坐在火坑或火炉上,故此它可以随意摆放在任何地方就设置茶席泡茶饮用。

当在煮着热水时,燃料的热气会一直往上移动,人们就利用这个热气,炖煮着顶部两壶茶。茶就一直泡在这里,随时预备着一整天的饮用。

煮水器有装置水龙头,方便取热水。它小的可容纳三公升水量,大的可装30公升水。

Samovar的设计,相信是除了可以煮热水、煮茶用,它也可以放在屋里当“暖炉”用,所以大家爱为炉而坐。茶炊有各种金属制成的:铜、青铜、铁,银是最典型,传统而富裕的通常喜欢采用瓷制造,深颜色釉彩,而且有金色装饰搭配,看起来很华丽的样子,他们还喜欢用民间故事的绘画作品来装饰。

俄罗斯茶文化

俄茶文化煮水/茶器

第二:Podstakannik金属杯架

传统上认为经典的俄罗斯茶法,他们会需要一个瓷茶杯来享用茶,但后来大众改用玻璃杯,无柄的,为了防热,它们都会被套进一个金属杯架,杯架名称为了玻璃杯安全取拿podstakannik,做工通常极之精细优美,可当作工艺品欣赏。

俄罗斯茶文化

俄茶文化的Zavarka是什么?

在许多其他地方,茶是茶叶在泡茶器内浸泡,达到了泡茶者预期的浓度,就可以倒出来饮用。

俄罗斯不一样,在俄罗斯,茶叶置入壶里,使用热气让它慢慢焖煮至沸,或至少五分钟,或可能一整天,然后泡制出极之浓强、集中的茶汤,那就叫作Zavarka(浓茶汤)。

Zavarka不单独喝,那味道很强烈。人们要喝茶时只需要拿一点点倒进杯,再加热水稀释茶汤至自己要求的口感。

选用什么茶叶?

在地理和文化上俄罗斯横跨欧洲与亚洲,故此他们的喝茶习惯也受到这两地如:中国及英国的影响。最初他们是饮用从中国进口而来的茶叶,有砖茶和散茶,后来喝红茶,有中国的祁门红茶,印度的红茶,近代也有锡兰红茶以及俄罗斯当地红茶品牌Russian Caravan,此茶带有烟熏香味。

此外他们还有药草茶、水果茶。他们喜欢将二、三种茶分别泡在不同的壶里,要喝时各倒一点进茶杯,依据自己喜爱的味道加热水调配。

20世纪以来,大众喝茶的喜好已经随着政治与经济局势调整,如今,大多数俄罗斯人喜欢浓郁香气和味道浓厚的锡兰红茶,仍然选择中国茶口味的属于老传统。

茶席如何设置?

通常在家里,家庭女主人把最心爱的客厅一角比如靠着窗户,可遥望户外景色的地方,摆上圆桌铺上桌布,茶炊就置放中央,团团围着它的有:

茶叶:散红茶收在茶罐里

泡茶器:瓷茶壶坐在茶炊的顶部

喝茶器:客人面前都有一套瓷杯、杯托、小茶匙或含杯架的玻璃杯

喝茶的调味物:方糖在瓷糖罐、蜂蜜、浓缩甜牛奶、果酱(数种口味如草莓、樱桃、蓝莓、黄莓、覆盆子)和切片柠檬

茶点:煎饼、馅饼(数种口味如苹果,樱桃,奶酪,卷心菜)

俄罗斯茶文化

茶叶冲泡法

茶炊的煮水器要煮热水。

把适当茶叶放进茶壶,加热水,置于茶炊顶部。

如果需要,准备多一支茶壶,投入茶叶,也加热水,置茶壶顶部。

任由茶炊的热气慢慢将茶煮沸。

通常中间的茶壶泡浓浓的红茶,顶部的茶壶,浸泡着当地任何药草茶。

怎样喝?大家喜欢喝什么,拿下来倒进茶杯,再从煮水器的水龙头加热水稀释,调整喜爱的味道,茶汤和热水的浓度比列通常是1:10。

调好之后,再加入糖、蜂蜜或果酱等增进风味。他们喜爱以果酱入茶。

有些人喜欢含着一块方糖在嘴里,一边喝茶。

这样喝茶为什么?由于天气非常寒冷,围着煮水器喝茶可取暖,热热的茶令身心温暖,甜甜的味道是营养与能量的来源。

此外很多人为自己的茶调味时几乎总会加柠檬片,或是倒入镶嵌着丁香的柠檬片里才喝。许因为茶叶有时会静置几个小时,变苦了,所以要调味。

泡茶者有指定是什么人吗?

俄罗斯茶文化延续英国茶道做法,家庭里地位最崇高的女性担任泡茶者,不假手于佣人或随便任何一位成员,表现了茶在他们生活里的重要性与尊贵。因此喝茶文化在俄罗斯,一般定义为:为家庭营造温暖和香气、热情和安全的象征。

什么时候喝茶呢?

俄罗斯人延续传统的喝茶习惯:每餐都要有提供,随时随地,不管白天晚上,饭后都要喝,尤其是当家人和朋友聚集时更要喝。

在他们的火车、办事处、餐厅到街边小贩都能找到当地必备的茶炊卖热茶或供应热茶。俄罗斯人认为“喝茶是一整天的事”,故此他们重视是否拥有一个保温功能良好的茶炊,可以让热水保持一整天的温度。现今茶炊多已经切换成电器茶炊,保温已不是问题。

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第十章 茶會間衍生的問題-蔡荣章

《無我茶會Sans Self Tea Gathering 180條》

蔡荣章著Author:Rong-tsang Tsai

ISBN978-957-9690-08-9 “无我茶会Sans Self Tea Gathering180,” First edition: 1999.9, Second edition: 2010.9《无我茶会180条》1999.9第一版 2010.9第二版 台北陆羽茶艺股份有限公司.2012.05.20修订版-English Translator : Katherine Yip英语翻译:叶德明

第十章 茶會間衍生的問題

128.奉茶方法發生了錯誤怎麼辦

我們希望每位參加無我茶會的人都熟知茶會的規則,但若臨時發生錯誤,在不影響大會順利進行下,可修正就修正,不知如何修正,或修正會影響茶會正常運作時就不修正。例如前來奉茶的人把杯子放錯地方,用手筆劃一下,他就意會到了,這是可修正的狀況;若這個人連奉茶的對象都弄錯了,而且不是一下子可以調整過來的,就讓它去了,這是不修正的狀況。

129.別人奉給您的茶少了一杯,怎麼辦

出去奉完茶回座位,等別人奉過來的茶到齊後,就可以開始飲用,但等了半天還是少一杯,眼看進度就要落後了,這時就不要再等了,可能對方的動作太慢,也可能弄錯了,為顧全大局,先把茶喝了,繼續前面的進度。

130.所泡的茶倒不完怎麼辦

每一道茶的沖水量要以自己所帶杯子(及奉茶給圍觀者的杯子)的數量與大小而定,使能一次恰好倒滿所需的杯數與份量,若沖水太少,或茶壺太小,則每杯少倒一些,若沖泡的茶量太多,一次奉不完,可留待下次再奉,若已到了最後一道,只好自己將它喝掉。

有些人將奉不完的茶倒於熱水瓶帶回去,這樣熱水瓶內的茶味不容易清除;有些人將之倒於熱水瓶的外蓋上,茶會結束後拿去倒掉;若在野外泡茶,有人直接將它倒掉。以上這些處理方法都不好,畢竟茶是您用心帶來,且盡全力將之泡好,用以呈獻給茶友們的「珍貴之物」,這樣糟蹋,總與前面奉茶心意格格不入。所以用心地把茶泡好,把茶量控制好,萬一多出來了,將它喝掉,是比較妥當的做法。

131.遇到自己喝不下的茶怎麼辦

這裡所指的「喝不下」大概是指泡得太濃、難以下口,若只是量太多,喝了頂多肚子撐一些而已,不至於「喝不下」。若遇到泡得太濃,在可以忍受的情況下,還是喝了。如果擔心身體會因此不舒服,可加些水稀釋,如果杯子倒得滿滿的,無法稀釋,可倒一半到已喝過的杯子再補白水。

喝了這樣的茶,應更加要求自己把茶泡好,免得同樣給別人造成困擾,而且辛辛苦苦地帶茶、帶茶具、帶熱水來泡茶、來奉茶,居然還泡得別人喝不下去,如何對「自己」、對「茶」交代?

132.今天不能喝茶,但又參加了茶會,怎麼辦

這是很特殊的例子,不容易發生,但也不排除「並不是愛茶,只是愛這樣的活動」的人參加,或是因為身體的關係,這段時間不宜喝茶。遇到這種狀況,可在喝完第一道茶後,把每只杯子都用熱水佔滿,這樣別人前來奉茶時,就知道您不能再喝了。若連第一道茶都不能喝,那就將茶原封不動地放著,到了大家喝完最後一道茶,要擦杯子時,把每杯茶倒於熱水瓶的外蓋上,茶會結束後拿去倒掉。

無我茶會是一群愛茶人的茶道活動,「愛茶」是喜愛這項活動的根本要素,純粹只是愛茶的「活動」,無我茶會將失去它之所以為「無」的光彩。

133.奉茶時,發現自己的前一杯茶尚未被喝掉,怎麼辦

泡完第二道以後的茶,持「盅」(或泡末茶時的「有流茶碗」)出去奉茶,發現自己的前一杯茶尚未被喝掉,這時若被奉者也在座,應觀察是還來不及喝呢,還是已不想再喝?如果還來不及喝,等它一下,若不想再喝,就不要奉茶給他了。這時不要只想到是自己把茶泡壞了,別人喝不下去,應考慮到或許是因為對方身體不適的關係。

如果是在家裡待客,遇到這種情形,茶道老師會教我們問對方一下:「還想要喝一杯新泡的茶嗎?」對方如果說要,那就備一只水盂,把原來那杯已變冷了的茶倒掉,再為他倒一杯新的茶。但在無我茶會的場合,因為它的行為、精神基礎在「儉約」,所以不再有這段後續的動作。

134.收杯時,遇到剩有茶湯怎麼辦

為「特定對象」而舉辦的無我茶會,第一道茶的第一杯都會奉給「特定對象」,這杯茶如果未被喝掉,在收回後是自己將它喝掉。但如果是一般性的無我茶會,收杯時,遇到剩有茶湯,那是屬於對方的問題,如何說呢?因為不論是難喝、喝不完、忘了喝……,都應該將茶杯清出來,以便別人收回去,但如果確是遇到了剩有茶湯怎麼辦?就當他未弄清無我茶會的遊戲規則,將杯子收回,將茶湯倒於熱水瓶的外蓋上(野外泡茶時,直接倒於不影響的地方),收拾好茶具後再拿去倒掉。但檢討自己是不是把茶泡壞了,或是其他的原因造成對方無法將茶喝掉。

135.茶沒泡好,可以做些補救措施嗎

把茶泡好,這是茶人必須有的修養,如果在奉茶之前發現茶淡了或濃了,應行補救:淡了,再倒回壺內浸泡一下,濃了,倒些熱水稀釋。若屬太濃,想稀釋,但裝茶湯的茶盅已滿滿的,可先倒一杯出來,這杯就留給自己。到了飲用時,先將別人的茶喝完,倒一半到別人的杯子上,再稀釋。

您說:那我怎麼知道太淡了還是太濃了?若在倒茶時無法察知,可先倒一點在自己的杯子內試飲一下。

136.泡茶時發現水量或泡出的湯量明顯不足,有何應變方法

這兩種現象可能發生在事先的準備不足,或奉茶給圍觀來賓時,杯數臨時增加所致。泡到最後一道,發現帶來的熱水已不敷使用,現場又沒有熱水供應,這時可輕聲問一下左右鄰座的茶友是否有多餘的熱水,把熱水瓶借您使用一下。若泡完茶,發現茶湯少得太厲害,不是每杯少倒一點可以解決的,這時可以再補泡一次,沖水量視需要而定,就這樣兩泡當一泡使用。

137.可以倒一杯給反方向的芳鄰嗎

喝完茶後,發現盅內還剩有茶湯,今天約定向左奉茶,右鄰又是一位很想跟他攀談的朋友,能不能趁他喝完茶,杯子有空時,倒一杯茶給他喝?同一個問題的延伸:不遠處坐著一位久仰的前輩,能不能也趁這個機會走過去奉一杯茶給他?答案都是不可以,因為每一件事、每一項活動都有它的規則與限制,無規矩不能成方圓。

138.杯子的衛生問題

無我茶會是自行攜帶茶葉、茶具,一起泡茶,飲用的是別人的茶杯與茶。有人擔心衛生問題,建議改為將自己帶來的杯子擺在自己的「奉茶區」上,奉茶時是每人以自己的茶盅(或有流茶碗)將茶倒到被奉者自己的茶杯內。這樣子是省卻了「別人的杯子是否衛生」的那一半擔心,但同時也割去了不少人們交互奉茶的那份親切之情。人在交往中往往不能那麼「衛生」的,否則相互握手、相互擁抱等行為都要檢討。無我茶會想要推動的是人際間自然、真誠的那份情感,所以採取這樣的奉茶方式。當然每人要把自己的杯子、茶具、雙手、身體洗得乾淨,並攜帶高品質的茶葉、潔淨的水,以精湛且認真的技藝泡茶招待別人,還要把自己的身心修養得健康、快樂與進取,以便與大家共處。

 139.不知道喝的是什麼茶,可以問嗎,可以讚美他嗎

無我茶會從泡茶開始後就不可以說話了,所以喝茶時,想知道那是什麼茶,是不可以開口發問的。那憋在心裡不是很難過嗎?所以我們喝茶時,只要專心品賞,不必管它叫什麼名字,就如同我們奉茶給左鄰第一、第三、第五位茶友,也不必管他叫什麼名字,我們欣賞一座山,也不必管它叫什麼名字,我們欣賞天上的一朵雲,也不必管它叫什麼名字。當然,如果您在很自然的情況下知道那杯茶是誰泡的,茶會結束後,可以當作談話資料問他;喝到一杯泡得很好的茶,在這種情況下讚美他一番也無妨。但若一面品飲一面操心著這杯茶是誰泡的?這杯茶叫什麼名字?這杯茶怎麼泡得那麼難喝……,就喝得太辛苦了。

140.最後一道茶奉完,可以走到景仰的人那兒要杯茶喝嗎

過去舉辦國際性無我茶會時,曾發生奉完最後一道茶,有茶友跑到他景仰的茶人那兒要茶喝,先是一個人,後來有人仿效,一時造成風氣,影響了茶會後半段的秩序,活動後有人提出討論,大家都認為不妥,雖然國際知名茶人難得一見,但盡可利用「茶具觀摩與聯誼」時間或「會後活動」的機會。否則對某些人的崇敬會造成對某些人的傷害,難免引起不愉快,這是愛茶人不喜歡看見的。

141.會後可以與別人交換茶具作紀念嗎

前幾屆的國際無我茶會曾發生茶會結束後有人互相交換茶具以為紀念。檢討會上,起初有人認為很有意思,尤其是國際性的茶會,交換得異國茶友的茶器很有紀念價值,但討論到後來,反對的人越來越多,大家擔心此風盛行後,出發參加茶會前就得操心要帶哪套茶器以便與人交換。雖然這套茶器不怎麼名貴,但陪我半輩子了,萬一有人要與我交換怎麼辦?所以後來大家有這麼一個默契:無我茶會上不可交換茶具。

142.茶會結束後可以再約些人原地繼續泡茶嗎

無我茶會以抽籤決定座位,所以一些熟識的朋友不一定坐在一起,因此就會發生會後這些人相約留在原地繼續泡茶的情事。這種現象看在大家眼裡,好像他們這一群才是好朋友,剛才奉茶給我只是形勢不得不如此。

如果不是以抽籤決定座位,一定是熟悉的人坐在一起,國際性的場合,同國家、同地區來的人聚在一起,這樣,無我茶會的精神如何推動?茶會時一幅無國界、無流派、無私情的樣子,會後馬上又成群結黨,哪能成就「無」的境界?所以茶會結束後是不可再約些人在原地繼續泡茶的。

143.無我茶會可以使用非茶的飲料嗎

是因為「茶」的德性讓我們以具體的茶會方式,將它體現出來而成就了「無我茶會」,並不是先有茶會形式才找到「茶」作為沖泡的飲料,所以要能深刻體驗無我茶會的精神,非要「愛茶」不可,若只是喜愛「無我茶會」的形式與教條,只是浮面的利用而已。

據此推論,無我茶會上不宜使用非茶的飲料,但何種茶,是否調了味、熏了花就不受限制了。

(1974)