Tag Archives: 现代茶道思想

品茗馆泡茶师制度的建立-20130415周一喝茶慢-许玉莲

品茗馆泡茶师制度的建立

许玉莲

20130415周一喝茶慢MONDAY SLOW TEA

为客人泡茶的泡茶师排班制度要如何建立?品茗馆先要找出泡茶师的来源,他们有一. 馆内自己的泡茶师。此类泡茶师是品茗馆的工作人员,他们可以是老板、经理或行政人员等,平时有专属范畴的工作,但每周安排固定时钟掌席为客人泡茶。即他们是品茗馆的专职人员,同时也是拥有泡茶能力的泡茶师,兼职泡茶师的工作。二.驻馆专职泡茶师。聘请有泡茶能力的泡茶师,专门从事为客人泡茶的工作。三.外聘兼职泡茶师。约好泡茶师每周来几次,每次有固定时钟为客人服务,平日他们可能有别的工作。四.特约泡茶师。这类泡茶师只有特定时间才来到这里,无法天天来,故有机会时才客串。

经营者根据营业时段、客流量、品管要求、人事成本等条件排班,将泡茶师阵容排出后,由经营者决定要不要向外界广宣泡茶师名单。如经营者想要将品茗馆经营成一种艺术家的风格,不妨公布泡茶师名单,客人可依据自己喜爱的泡茶师的特定掌席时间光顾,就是为了喝他泡的茶,泡茶师是谁变成是经营品茗馆的一种号召力。馆内每位泡茶师都可有不一样的想法来呈现茶的内涵,长远来说这样比较能形成一种良性竞争,泡茶师们都需要抱持着精进之心,不可荒废了手上的泡茶功夫,不然没客人要喝他泡的茶。客人可自由欣赏到心仪的泡茶师的茶汤作品,品茗肯定会更愉快。

如经营者选择了一定的品茗方向与市场,以馆的理念来做成强烈个性的招牌,不用客人烦恼是哪位泡茶师泡茶,客人自会被「品牌」吸引,这类型品茗馆需具备完整培训计划把理想方针教育到位,由经营者对客人负责就好,泡茶师名单就是一张普通店内的轮班表而已。

泡茶师阵容排出后,估计最少会产生两大类客人,其一:爱什么时候来就来,也无所谓泡茶师是哪位,像这样只要按照泡茶师排班表进行即可,轮到谁值班就谁泡。其二:有些客人希望能够喝到某位泡茶师的茶汤作品,或希望能够在某段时间喝茶,如此的话,客人可根据品茗馆排出的泡茶师阵容与时间表提早买票或预订茶席,品茗馆需提前做好售票以及接受预定的服务准备。

泡茶师的酬劳怎么算呢,有四种情况:第一是只有底薪,每个月该获得多少就多少。第二是底薪加佣金,佣金视乎泡茶师服务了几位客人,以人头来计算,如每位客人客单价是一百元,泡茶师可获十元佣金,这个月他服务了五十位客人,佣金合计伍佰元。第三是没有底薪,不管服务了多少位客人,泡茶师每掌席泡茶一趟,即获得一趟的酬劳,如一趟三十元,本月共掌席一百次,合计该月酬劳三千元。第四是当茶文化产业发展至一个地步,越发成熟的泡茶师们都将各自拥有社会公认的一个「酬劳」,比如掌席泡茶一趟,甲等的获一千元,乙等的获伍佰元,丙等的获一百元以此类推。

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烧水如何判断水温-许玉莲

烧水如何判断水温

许玉莲

20130305马来西亚《光明日报》每周“茶人的第三隻眼”专栏

烧水如何控制水温?有人拿手指试探性摸摸壶身,用触觉判断水的温度。有人打开壶盖,将手掌放在上面试探水气的热度。有人用工业温度计比如饼干制造厂测量糖浆那种,形状像把手枪,按一下就有红外线照射着目的物,即时读出温度。有人建议在煮水壶上装置温度计,一劳永逸解决问题。前二者的动作都有点危险,随时会烫伤,并非合理方法。后二者太刻板太科技了啦,有些事情我们确实需要现代化器具协助了解、完成,但有必要留一些空间给泡茶者去用心感觉,免得到最后已忘记为何要这么做,我们要当自己的师傅,而不要把科技、器具当师傅。

用什么方式判断水温比较准确和安全呢,烧水过了一段时间后,打开壶盖检视热水气冒上来的状况,可凭水蒸气冒出的强、弱势知道水温。开始学习判断水温时要准备温度计以便做实验,实验的重点:好好的体会一下各种不同温度的水蒸汽冒上的状况,到底长什么样子,而不只是看温度计的指标,然后可依此整理出一个规则,作为往后泡茶时的判断依据。

有人说那不是很麻烦吗,学泡茶就要买温度计了?温度计也不是到处可以买到。不要紧,懒得去买温度计的人就听老师说,老师就是温度计。以下是从蒸汽冒上状况看水温的实验,以电壶加热,壶大小1100cc,为不锈钢壶。左为水温记录,右为水气冒上来的样子:

摄氏五十度:不容易察觉有水气

摄氏六十度:若隐若现,像有雾

摄氏七十度:柔柔弱弱的一缕轻烟

摄氏八十度:直沖而上

摄氏九十度: 快窜

摄氏九十五度:猛

摄氏九十八度:一束好大串的水气,又旺又猛

注意电水壶加热的热源是怎样的?一.是水中加热方式,这样煮水效果比较好,为什么呢,因为热能都被水吸收了。二.是壶外加热的方式,这种煮水壶的缺点是:部分热能会散发在室内,煮水时间要耗长一点。第一种比第二种的水蒸气会比较快冒上来,即同样一束大小的水气,第一种的水温要稍减五度。使用瓦斯、酒精或炭,消耗热能更多,而且室内氧气也随之消耗。在空气不流通的空间,不主张用这三样燃料来烧水。

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烧水方法不能脱离现实生活-许玉莲

烧水方法不能脱离现实生活

许玉莲

20130219马来西亚《光明日报》每周“茶人的第三隻眼”专栏

现在泡茶说「微波有声、涌泉如珠、腾波鼓浪」或说「蟹眼、鱼眼」来形容烧水的水温状况不切实际,观看煮一壶水的过程,一沸:当水底泛起轻轻的漩涡,水面微微的有点起伏,时而一粒一粒小水珠冒上来,这就是所谓「蟹眼」了,再仔细一点可听到从煮水壶传出来的「风入松」(风吹进松树林)之「沙…..沙……」声响,这时水温约摄氏七十多度。二沸:水面四周围已经皱卷,从壶底的水中央有一连串水泡不断冒上来,每一个水泡大如鱼眼,这时约摄氏八十多度。三沸:整壶水一波未停一波又起并「啵啵啵……」声响,约摄氏九十多一百度。

但现实生活中已没有多少个人会这样子「观水」、「听水」和「候水」,我们再也回不去古时的生活方式,因为制茶、煮茶、饮茶方法不一样,使用器皿、环境也不再,人们的价值观、心态与情感的寄托更加今非昔比,上述的说法是脱离了现代生活的。

就现时的烧水习惯而言,大家多用不锈钢、陶、银、铁器等盖着盖子来煮,很难看到水状的变化,除非使用玻璃器就透明可看,但玻璃煮水器选择不多,品质不是那么好的又影响茶味,大多不用。看是看不到了,听呢?除非特别找个清幽僻静的环境泡茶才能捕捉到「风入松」的声音,当代日常工作与生活地点无论在哪里都避不了电脑、手机、空调、交通工具、电视等发出来的声音,早已掩盖水烧开的「沙…..沙……」声,也听不到了。

候水烧开呢?适当地等一会儿如十五分钟加热,已经很了不起,要是烧一公升的水从头到尾要等四十五分钟至一小时,会耽误下半天的生活安排,偶尔为之或可行。因为我们建议一顿茶的喝茶时间约花二小时就好,加上来回、堵车时间几乎已半天。

不是我们要反对细腻地专注地生活和泡茶,不懂得享用泡茶过程的「观水」、「听水」和「候水」的安静时刻,只不过现代生活和泡茶借用很多现代用器如电水壶、温度计等,故此泡茶烧水应如何调整观念,以及整理出一套适合现代学茶人运用的阅读的烧水和水温的方法,如何通过一些现代用器的进步来提升泡茶的细腻,是我们在现代茶法要做的事。

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烧水器的材质与加热方法-许玉莲

烧水器的材质与加热方法

许玉莲

20130212马来西亚《光明日报》每周“茶人的第三隻眼”专栏

泡茶烧水的加热方法有二种:一用电,二用炭,烧水指从冷水或室温水煮至滚开,这里没有包括用酒精灯,为什么呢?

酒精灯一直没法成为茶席上真正的烧水器,因为火力软、导致加热时间过长,使用过程想要调整火力不容易,泡到一半要加酒精费时费事,不能防风,让酒精灯只能承担为水保温的任务而已,即水在另外一个电水壶烧开后再倒过来茶席上的酒精炉继续烧免得水温降低了。

如使用有自动调节水温功能的电水壶,直接把电水壶放茶席上,酒精灯可弃。有些虽不能调节水温,然功率较强的电磁板煮水壶能煮水自如,酒精灯亦可弃。

烧炭不见得比酒精方便啊,炭炉为何可接受成为茶席上的煮水器?炭炉只需之前预备妥善炭料、燃料、用具,掌握并熟练起火方法,当把炭烧得火力均匀时便可稳当地摆在茶席上用,不必再做什么调度了,所以一点也不麻烦。

我们强调煮水器的发热及传播热量的功能要非常的均匀细腻,能全面分布壶底慢慢热起来,这样煮出来的水会烧得较「熟透」,定点猛热的烧不够好,因它影响水质。无论用电或炭煮水器,要留意其散发的热力可以「亲吻」到每一个水分子,比如无火舌、燃红的炭有红外线的热力,很耐用,均匀有力的热度可使水分子变得更细致,冲击着茶的深层内心,让茶叶在浸泡时释出更饱满的味道,茶喝起来有「溶化」和「滑」的口感。

我们也要求煮水壶要选用水喜欢的、并能够与之紧密结合的材质,因为水的每一个细胞、每一层肌肤无不紧紧密密地被煮水壶抱着,故此壶的材质与水不能抵触、或抵消水的品质或破坏水的风格,要能够让水「溶化」则水的质感就会「软化」。

煮水材质有玻璃壶、陶壶、银壶、铁壶、不锈钢壶、紫砂壶、黄铜壶等,每种材质煮出来的水「滋味」很不一样,烧坏了的会有「水味」,口感觉得「很锋利」,口腔有「锁住」的感觉,那将影响泡茶的茶汤味道。就现时在茶界可见到、用到的煮水器来说,以银器煮水泡茶,茶汤效果最细致,一丝一丝的滋味都紧贴着口腔每一个细胞,进入身体。再来依次黄铜、不锈钢、紫砂和陶。玻璃烧水有点「散散」的不集中感,铁器煮出来的水也不怎么可口,带「铁质味」和「杂质味」,并不利于泡茶发挥茶性。

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泡好一壶茶的信念-蔡荣章

泡好一壶茶的信念

蔡荣章

201302《海峡茶道》月刊专栏

我们说茶文化、茶道、茶道艺术、泡茶师、茶道艺术家、茶汤,都是要以茶为核心,因为脱离了茶,或是离茶太远(即涉茶的成分太少),就跑到别的领域去了。如果说茶文化,那是包括上游的种茶、制茶到中游的卖茶,下游的喝茶。如果说茶道,就把重心移到成品茶,再加上茶与人、茶与社会的关系。如果说茶道艺术,那就只关注到泡茶、奉茶、品茗的内涵与形式。如果说泡茶师,那是特别强调泡茶的技艺。如果说茶道艺术家,那是在泡茶、奉茶、品茗间注入更多的艺术成分。如果说茶汤,那就专指茶道艺术家最终完成的那杯茶。

上面所说的茶文化各各范畴,不但要以茶为核心,还有一个共同的基础,那就是要把茶泡好。这句话大家或许不容易理解,但是大家想想,如果茶泡得不好喝,大家不喜欢喝茶,自始茶文化就不会形成,茶了不起只变成一种药物或营养品、食品添加剂。至于茶文化里的茶道、茶道艺术、泡茶师、茶道艺术家、茶汤,更是一层比一层更依赖〝泡好一壶茶〞。到了泡茶师、茶道艺术家、茶汤,几乎等同于〝泡好一壶茶〞。

泡好一壶茶有三个不同的层次,最起码的层次是泡得人们喜欢喝。有些茶是别人为了情面勉强喝的,有些茶是别人听说茶有益健康、茶是高雅饮品而喝的。第二个层次是泡得色香味都非常丰盛,别人端上手就被吸引住了。第三个层次是把茶性表现得很到位,诸如品种风味、地理环境、土壤特性、成长岁月,甚至适当冲泡器对该泡茶的影响、泡茶者个人对该泡茶的理解与感情。谈到茶文化、茶道,最少要做到第一个层次,谈到茶道艺术、泡茶师,最少要做到第二个层次,谈到茶道艺术家、茶汤作品,就得做到第三个层次。

泡好一壶茶包括把身体弄干净、把手洗干净、选配适当材质的壶盅杯等用具、处理好要用的水、将茶看个仔细、将心情平静下来。这些都是泡好一壶茶应有的基本素养,不论是茶的爱好者还是茶文化工作者,不论是泡茶师还是茶道艺术家,平时都要有这些积累,而且随着自我期许的增高逐步要求得精致。

泡好一壶茶是喝茶人、茶文化工作者、茶人应有的信念,因为一切茶的大道理都要以它为起点,而且起点有多高才能谈多高的道理。这个信念是什么呢?就是只要泡茶就非得要把茶泡好不可。就像现场挥毫的书法家或画家害怕一下手就失败,就像音乐家害怕一上台没能把曲子弹好唱好一样。但是现阶段的茶者缺乏这种警觉,为什么呢?因为我们没有把茶道或茶道艺术的〝呈现着力点〞放在茶汤上,我们依赖着太多茶席桌布、插花、音乐、服饰、肢体等来分担茶道表现的效果(然现场挥毫者、台上的音乐家没有这些依赖)。如果大家的眼睛与注意力都放在泡茶者的泡茶、奉茶、茶汤上,我们就不得不随时担心是否把茶泡好了。

泡好一壶茶的信念还不只是技能的,还是态度的。茶没泡好怎能端出去给别人喝?自己也不能喝这样的茶。厨师也懂得这个道理,炒得太咸的菜、没炖好的肉是不可以端出去给客人吃的,自己也不能吃这样的菜。

泡好一壶茶的信念还包括泡的是好茶。做得不到位的茶、做得不卫生的茶不可以泡给别人喝,也不可以泡给自己喝,唯有这样,茶文化才有益于人们的身心。我们也要以这样的信念导使人们做出好茶、做出合乎卫生安全的茶。(2013.01.11)

 

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茶艺与才艺-20130410周三小方块-蔡荣章

茶艺与才艺

蔡荣章

20130410周三小方块WEDNESDAY TEA CORNER

现在所说的茶艺是指泡茶技艺,茶艺在茶文化的领域里是属于泡茶的部分。将泡茶说成茶艺的人是有意将泡茶提升到艺术层面的,但是实施这三十年来(从1980年茶文化复兴开始算起),很多人并没有抓住茶艺的主体,而与才艺有了混淆。

我们看到有些单位举办茶艺比赛時会安排选手做些才艺表演,如自选唱歌、跳舞或弹琴,认为多才多艺是加分的项目。我们还发现很多人一开始学习泡茶就非常热衷于茶席设计,到处收购桌巾、茶具、摆饰,学习插花、焚香,学习优美的泡茶动作。

多才多艺可以让自己活得多姿多彩,但不是艺术学科里所讲求的,艺术要求专精,要求善用自己的媒体。如文学家要善用文字描写太阳西下的美,而不能说〝美得无法用文字形容,请看下面的这幅照片。〞茶道艺术应用的媒体是泡茶与奉茶的动作及泡成的茶汤,不能说了一大堆茶禅一味与和谐之饮的道理就成就了茶艺,摆设了精美又富创意的茶席、做好了优美的泡茶动作就说完成了茶道的艺术。

茶艺也好,或说是茶道艺术,它的最终作品是茶汤。虽然我们也可以将泡茶与奉茶的动作与茶汤绑在一起当作茶艺的主体,但最核心的价值还是在茶汤。难道去掉了茶汤,光是泡茶、奉茶就可以算是茶艺了吗?我们看到有些单位在茶艺培训時不给茶叶,只是用白水倒来倒去,训练动作而已。

这样的观念还可以从绘画艺术中获得:我们看到一位画家,精心布置了画室,仔细摆设极为专业的画架,一管管名牌的油画颜料排列有序,画笔一根根都像上了膛的枪枝,自己穿好了围兜戴上了鸭嘴帽,坐上画架旁开始作画。看到这里,有些人认为看够了,接下来还不就是画一张他习惯的抽象画,退下不再观赏了,有些人耐心地看下去。画家习惯性地草草画了一张似曾相识的作品结束了。就先行退下的观众而言,前半段好像比后半段的作画有看头,就继续观看的人而言,觉得绘画艺术不应该如此,前半段的准备虽然也可以与一笔笔作画的过程视为绘画艺术的一部分,但我们重视的应该是画家完成后那幅画的质量。

最近有个2013年职业院校技能大赛高职组“中华茶艺技能”竞赛考核内容是这样的:茶艺表演占总成绩80%,茶艺理论占总成绩20%。茶艺表演的成绩评判标准为 a.茶艺演示:分值35分(占44%),b.茶汤质量:分值12分(占15%),c.仪容仪表、礼仪:分值10分(占12.5%),d.茶席布置:分值10分(占12.5%),e.茶艺创意:分值10分(占12.5%),f.时间掌控:分值3分(占3.5%)。从这样的评比设计可看出目前很多人的观念还是将泡茶奉茶的动作视为茶艺的重心,茶汤泡得好不好只占15%的重要性。

如果我们说一幅画在绘画艺术里只占15%的重要性,其他要放在画画的过程、画家的风采、画室的布置、绘画手法的创新上,艺术界不知道要怎么说我们。

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品茗馆之碧螺春-许玉莲

品茗馆之碧螺春

许玉莲.文/摄影

现代茶思想碧螺春

碧螺春拥有非常美丽的体态,一根一根卷曲得细细紧紧、绰约多姿,似美娇娘。其墨绿色的茶条被一片银白茸毛披覆着,银绿银绿相映,似一团云雾环绕着青山的景色。

现代茶思想碧螺春

先用手指头点一些毫毛,放在舌头上尝味,似有若无地带些鲜毫香。捏一根上手,其茶体好坚挺;茶条直接放进嘴里咀嚼,咬了一会儿滋味才溢出,浓郁。

嗅闻茶干香气,有一股植物的清雅香。可双手握抱着茶荷供至鼻子前,藉着手与人体的体温来提香,这时香气会比较集中。

现代茶思想碧螺春

现代茶思想碧螺春

茶叶浸水茸毛脱落而漂浮在茶汤的水面,毛毛的、雾气幽幽的样子,似早春。这些茸毛不要使用过滤网把它隔掉,不要嫌它以为是灰尘,茸毛是长在碧螺春嫩芽心里头的,一起品饮茶味将更明显。喝多几道,茶汤逐渐清澈,味道也会渐淡。

现代茶思想碧螺春

现代茶思想碧螺春

其汤色嫩绿,晶莹可爱;茶汤含在嘴里品啜,其香味不是「攻击型」马上就能感受到,它慢慢慢慢扩散和深入整个口腔,鲜浓,滋味绵长;喉底与上颚之间盘旋着一股清鲜、浓厚毫香,久久仍然不散,透心凉。

现代茶思想碧螺春

毫香,是一种比龙井的芽香更娇嫩的抽芽香,似清晨在花园里,所有植物的叶子、花朵、果子都蠢蠢欲动而并发出的生命气息。

现代茶思想碧螺春欣赏茶底,完整无暇的叶心显露,可爱极了。舍不得,还可放进嘴里细细咬。碧螺春茶味细腻堪慢品,各个状况的外形也可值得一一观赏。

现代茶思想碧螺春茶渣

上图:看碧螺春茶叶的大小。

 

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我们期待怎样的茶艺师证照-20130403周三小方块-蔡荣章

我们期待怎样的茶艺师证照

蔡荣章

20130403周三小方块WEDNESDAY TEA CORNER

我要考茶艺师证照吗?

这要看您的需要,如果您想在中国茶界找一份工作,有这样一张证书是多少有点帮助的,如果不是为求职而只是兴趣于泡茶,倒可不必。

为什么说在中国找一份茶界工作有这样一张证书是多少有点帮助,而不是绝对肯定的答案呢?

茶艺师证照虽然是一种职业证照,但目前在中国还没有强制性要求,所以茶行、茶艺馆没有说是无具备茶艺师资格的从业人员不得经营。当然,如果茶企业招聘员工时,握有一张茶艺师证书的人是会被视为多一份资历的。

为什么说如果不是为求职而只是兴趣于泡茶,倒可不必?

因为茶艺师证照目前尚未显示泡茶能力证明的功效,原来设计时也没往这方面设想。原来茶艺师证照的职能要求仅偏向于为客人准备好泡茶的一切或是从事茶艺表演与解说。

如果从检测的内容来修正,是不是可以让茶艺师证照变得具有泡茶能力证明的功效?

可以的,只要在检测的时候加重将茶汤泡得精准的项目,就可以让茶艺师证照变得具有泡茶能力证明的功效。近来茶行、茶艺馆开始重视员工泡茶的能力,有泡茶师为客人泡茶的品茗馆也逐渐兴起,加重将茶汤泡得精准的茶艺师证照更可符合新时代的需要。

近来有些海外人士到中国参加茶艺师的考照,是不是意味着这些人对中国茶艺师证照的重视?

中国茶艺师证照由官方发给,这点是让大众觉得有信心的,但是举办考试的地点由各地不同层级的单位执行,试题由各省自行制订,这些试点对发证的态度与松紧程度相去颇大。应考员经历了考试的内容后,发现与他们想象的茶艺业内涵与茶道生活有一段距离。这是中国茶艺师证照应调整检测方法与方向的地方。

茶艺师证照的检测内容是不是也影响业界与人们在茶文化上的走向?

是的,大众会以为茶艺师证照的检测内容就是茶艺业应该的经营内容,也就是拟加入该行业的人应学习的功课。结果这就影响了业界与人们在茶文化上的走向。

某行业的职业证照或某学术领域的资格证书所检测的内容应该就是该行业、该学术领域的重心。一般人对某行业、某学术领域应有的走向不都是先知先觉的,如果其检测的内容有所偏差或与時代脱节,就会影响该行业、该学术领域的发展。同样的道理,有识之士也可以利用检测的内容引导某行业或某学术领域的前进方向。

现今的茶业正需要从茶叶市场拓展到茶汤市场,茶汤市场需要具备高度泡茶能力的人才,我们希望中国茶艺师证照能加重泡茶能力的检测,协助茶业走进茶汤市场的领域。现今的茶艺馆已为数不多,取得这样的茶艺师证照也是徒然,若能调整检测的方向而带动茶汤市场的兴起,茶艺师证照才有广阔的用武之地。

 

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泡茶小助手茶签茶匙-许玉莲

泡茶小助手茶签茶匙

许玉莲

20130205马来西亚《光明日报》每周“茶人的第三隻眼”专栏

茶签是一支约十六cm长的针状竹制物,也有用名贵花梨木或沉香木做的,早期它主要被泡茶者拿来通壶嘴,因出汤时茶叶常常堵住在「壶流」,要把茶签伸进壶嘴将茶叶「推」下去,茶水才可流出。后期壶里的出水孔大多做成网状和球状以阻挡茶叶入「流」,很多不再需要茶签。

但茶签有另一重要用处:可当作泡茶者的手指来使唤,这样才不会将茶叶折断,要将茶荷里的茶叶拨入茶壶,用茶签轻轻划一下足矣,手指头的大小不顺,力度太强。要从茶罐倒茶叶入茶荷,茶签的长度也可帮忙进入罐内「邀」茶叶出来。茶叶在茶荷被观赏时,要更清楚看茶叶的细节部位,可用茶签翻动茶叶指出要点。

茶签有两种设计,一种就单一只有针状造型,叫茶签。第二种茶签有一物二用功能,它另一头的形状像「匙」,叫做茶匙,表示这件器物除了茶签可帮忙拨茶叶,也可用茶匙部位从茶壶内把茶渣「请」出来观赏。喝完茶后即刻用手指往壶里挖掏茶渣太粗鲁,要用茶匙,况且那样做也太烫手了。像这种双重功能的茶器,当要用那一头时就以该部位名称呼之。

如果一头有茶签一头有茶匙,泡茶者就务必让它们分工,做「干燥的工作」拿茶叶是茶签,做「潮湿的工作」挖茶渣是茶匙,不可混乱,这是对茶叶的「干、湿」,「未用、已用」的留意与尊重,对茶具的尊重,对专业的尊重,对人的尊重。如果泡茶时凡事只是虚应故事而已,茶道就无法产生感受力了。

茶匙也有只是单一匙状造型而已,不与茶签同在,这时针状的造型会变成直平状或斜平状的刀片形,此部位要当作茶签(像手指这样拨茶叶)来用是没有问题的。要单独准备一支茶签,一支茶匙也可以。这种造型的茶匙也被称为「茶杓」,泡饮抹茶时可用于从茶罐掏拿茶粉。

有人见到一些可爱的茶树枯枝,捡回家弄干净当茶签用,那是一种单纯的趣味,偶尔为之无不可,但不代表每一样茶具都要这样「捡破烂」回家才显泡茶意义。有人规定凡泡茶者必须自己亲手制作茶签、茶匙、茶荷等竹器,否则就断定他是一个不懂泡茶之人。没有必要如此偏执,艺术的发展也需要分工。

 

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有些茶具可以不要-许玉莲

有些茶具可以不要

许玉莲

20130129马来西亚《光明日报》每周“茶人的第三隻眼”专栏

泡茶时需要的一些小助手如:茶签、茶匙和茶巾,虽然少了它们不会影响太大,但请它们来帮忙的确轻松好多。有人还用上其他如茶夹、茶则、茶漏、滤网等,那又不必太繁琐,选择使用何样工具,什么时候应该用,都必须在一个适可而止的界限。

本篇先谈后面那几样,如茶则不实用,可以承载茶叶的凹位太浅,只适合放碎形、扁平形和颗粒形茶叶,其他稍微蓬松形、长条形茶叶放不了几条,要拿很多次才足够泡茶量。茶叶放在里面,要递传欣赏茶叶很难握拿,茶叶容易「跌」出来。它虽适合放碎形、扁平形和颗粒形茶叶,但这几种茶叶只要微微倾斜茶罐就会直接「滑」下入茶荷,不再需要茶则帮忙,另外紧压茶无论是剥开之前、后,直接放入茶荷即可,茶则没用。

茶漏是没有「用心」的泡茶者才觉得有需要之物,拨茶入壶避免茶叶漏出壶外,泡茶者眼神需跟着手势走,双手动作要稳定,一下一下「拨」的动作要对准壶口要知道力度,如此茶叶肯定进入壶内,否则茶漏也帮不上忙。

滤网要用的话,有必要找些质地佳的,不锈钢、瓷、铜的材料不错,其他会感染味道的劣质材料不可用,会破坏茶味道,尤其那一张「网」如用布料,要用「不吸味」的。滤网网目不可过大或过小,原本属于细碎状的茶叶应该装入茶包再泡饮,滤网是解决不了的。茶汤偶尔有些茶细末不要紧,别忙着「除而快之」。用滤网的心态:不可将茶细末当垃圾。

茶夹多余,因为拿茶杯可以直接用手,又何必多此一举用夹子提取茶杯。有说泡茶者的手肮脏,不可触及喝茶者的茶杯,这种想法是对茶文化还没建立好尊重与信任,事实上泡茶者本身以及泡茶用具必须达到卫生干净的程度才可进入茶席泡茶。泡茶者要获得喝茶者的绝对信心,泡茶者就需要洞察自己的行为是否在日常也有养成良好卫生的习惯,头发衣服是否天天替换清洗,有够留意茶叶的存在吗,有够尊重喝茶的人吗,有感受到喝茶的美好掌握到赏茶的喜悦,有把这些经验都化成专业的能力吗,如果对人对物毫不在意、不够尊重,就会走上「错误加入许多不必要茶具」之路。

 

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無我茶會Sans Self Tea Gathering-Chapter 6- Pre-event Preparation for Sans Self Tea Gathering -蔡荣章Rong-tsang Tsai

《無我茶會Sans Self Tea Gathering 180條》

蔡荣章著Author:Rong-tsang Tsai

ISBN 978-957-9690-08-9,“无我茶会Sans Self Tea Gathering 180” ,First edition: 1999.9, Second edition: 2010.9,《无我茶会180条》,1999.9第一版,2010.9第二版,台北陆羽茶艺股份有限公司.2012.05.20修订版.-English Translator : Katherine Yip,英语翻译:叶德明.

Chapter 6 Pre-event Preparation for Sans Self Tea Gathering

53 ‘Simplicity and Modesty’: the principle behind the use of tea ware for Sans Self Tea Gathering.

A Sans Self Tea Gathering is to be carried out in as simple a manner as possible; the same goes with personal tea ware for the occasion – one can look to ‘travel tea ware’ as a guide. Going simple will help significantly cut down on time spent preparing, using and packing tea ware; meanwhile, time saved will enable us to experience and enjoy the atmosphere and ambience of the tea gathering.

Precious tea ware is best kept at home. Participants are encouraged to bring along practical pieces. Though the rare fines will usually make quite an impression during the ‘tea ware appreciation and networking’ session, this will draw comparison as participants may rack their brains trying to determine which ones to bring to catch attention. They would be so worried about their precious tea service throughout the event that they will miss what is essentially an enjoyable experience. More often than not, simplicity could be the best policy in life — fame, wealth, possession, and ways and means alike.

When we mentioned ‘precious’, we refer to the yardstick for participants in general. However, for those who often bring such tea ware along and find no problem with this, we will not name-tagged such ‘unsuitable’.

54. The basic ware for Sans Self Tea Gathering

For a gathering with floor seats, bring along ‘seating cushion’. As everyone has to brew tea, ‘teapot’ or ‘tea bowl’ for whisking matcha is essential, so are ‘teacups’. The number of teacups would depend on what is listed in the ‘Notification’.  If teapot is used, bring along a ‘tea pitcher’ for distributing tea; even if tea is evenly poured into the cups from the pot for the first brewing, it will not be easy to attain the same level of evenness in strength for subsequent brews. Pour tea into the pitcher first before serving,  because the teacups would have been offered to different fellow tea drinkers – if we pour tea directly from the teapot into individual teacups, the tea infusion served first will be weaker than that served later; and , going back and forth to ensure even strength is too much of a hassle. A ‘tea serving tray’ will come in handy for serving tea from the tea pitcher or tea bowl (in the case of whisking matcha).

For convenience’s sake, put the right amount of tealeaves into the teapot beforehand, if you prepare to use one. This saves the trouble of bringing along the ‘tea caddy’. However, if matcha is to be served, the ‘tea caddy’ is a must, so are the ‘tea scoop’ for scooping out the tea powder and ‘tea whisk’ for whipping up the matcha.

Hot water is a must for both brewed and whisked teas.  Bring along a thermal flask with boiled water of the required temperature. As duration for brewing is crucial, a ‘timer’ with seconds display or a watch is essential to help keep track of time. A ‘tea towel’ will help catch any drip in the course of tea brewing or serving; and it can be used to wipe the used cups when we are packing after the tea gathering.

Lay a piece of ‘tea brewing cloth’ on the floor (or on the table, if applicable). Place the tea ware on the cloth. Make sure there is enough space at the outer edge for the others to offer tea to you. You may use either the cloth for wrapping the tea ware or a dedicated ‘pot wrapping cloth’ for this purpose.

Put the tea ware into your ‘carrying bag’, and you are ready to attend the Sans Self Tea Gathering.

无我茶会小壶茶法茶具

 

无我茶会抹茶法茶具

55. Some practical tips about the ‘Tea Ware’ for Sans Self Tea Gathering

There should be a strainer at the base of the teapot’s spout to prevent tealeaves from blocking the flow of tea. The mesh should be very fine to catch even the very tiny residue. Otherwise, residue with some tea infusion may be left at the bottom of the teacups, affecting not just the water temperature, but making it difficult to wipe dry the teacups afterwards. A ‘strainer’ incorporated at the opening of the tea pitcher could complement the straining function of the teapot. Tea pitchers are used to distribute tea infusion into individual teacups. It is important that these pitchers have ‘anti-dripping’ design; otherwise, tea infusion may spill and wet the brewing area of fellow participants. (If a rug is used at the brewing area, quickly use the tea towel or tissue paper to absorb the tea infusion to avoid leaving any stain which could be hard to remove)

The size of the teapots and tea pitchers should be considered in relation to the number of cups. Avoid using teacups with a capacity of more than 50cc. Tea infusion should only fill 4/5 of the cups because each participant will be served a few rounds. Large teacups would require large teapots/tea pitchers as well as water flasks, which could be inconvenient when being carried around.  Use weightier teacups.  Do not use delicate teacups such as the eggshell porcelain for outdoor tea gatherings to avoid spillage in a sudden draft.  Fluted-shape teacups with small base are not advisable, as they may spill with a quick gust of air or being carried around on the tray

The serving tray should be just big enough for the cups. Also, avoid trays with very slippery surface to eliminate the risk of spillage when the cups are being carried around.

56. How is the best way for tea ware to travel?

Each item for the Sans Self Tea Gathering has to be packed in a damage-free manner.  Teapots, tea pitchers or tea bowls could be wrapped carefully with a ‘wrapping cloth’. Tea cups, be they stacked on top of each other, bundled up or ‘hooked’ onto the teapot and be wrapped together, must have ‘cup covers’ for extra protection; otherwise, they may be damaged by pressure. The thermal flask must be positioned upright and wobble-free, and not knocking against other tea ware in the carrying bag.

Organize the carrying bag into a few parts: one for the thermal flask; one for major tea ware such as teapot, tea pitcher and teacups; one for the tea serving tray, tea towel and timer; one for the seating mat; and one for personal items such as camera. This way, packing will be a lot easier. If possible, use a shoulder bag for ease of movement and flexibility.

When tea ware has to be transported in your checked-in baggage for an overseas Sans Self Tea Gathering, protect each item with personal clothing in a hard-case luggage.  If in doubt, bring them along in your hand luggage.

无我茶会一壶二杯包紮法

 

无我茶会一盅二杯包紮法

57. Things to note about the protective/wrapping materials for the tea ware

Apart from safety, protective/wrapping materials for the tea ware must also be considered in terms of hygiene, odour and appearance. ‘Hygiene’ means that the materials and printing on it must be pollution-free and easy to wash.  Materials with ‘odour’ will stay on the tea ware or be absorbed by the tealeaves; hence, it is important to choose odour-free materials.  ‘Appearance’ refers to the fact that the wrapping and unwrapping of the tea ware is a part of the ‘tea-brewing’ experience – ease of use and visual appeal will affect the mood of the participants. You may use the original commercial packaging or towels at home. While these will save you the worries about hygiene and odour, they may not be stylistically refined enough.

58. Which ‘tea’ should I bring?

This would cover the type and grade of tealeaves. ‘The type’ would depend on what is stated in the ‘Notification’ issued by the organizer; but the principle is to welcome ‘all types of tea’ or teas in a broad category. ‘The grade‘would be largely a personal choice, as long as it does not have an unpleasant smell or taste, and is not something you don’t like, because it would go against the aspiration of Sans Self Tea Gathering to encourage us to ‘accept and appreciate teas of all kinds’.

On what occasions would the organizer require a specific category of tea be used? For example, if a Sans Self Tea Gathering is planned for early spring to remind us of the arrival of the season, the Notification may make it clear that green tea is preferred; however, there will not be any restriction on the types. As for a memorial tea gathering, the organizer may request participants to bring along a certain type of tea because of its relationship with the person to be honoured.

59. How should be ‘tea’ be carried? (When should we put tealeaves into the teapot?)

With the exception of ‘powdered tea’, tealeaves can be added into the teapot before leaving home.  In the spirit of ‘simplicity and frugality’ of the Sans Self Tea Gathering, there is no need to bring along the tea caddy. Some of us may be worried about the quality of the tealeaves transported this way. Fret not. This is acceptable on the day itself, provided that the teapot is dry and there is no distinct odour or off-smell in the carrying bag. For tea gathering to take place the following day, get ready a tea caddy and leave it in the luggage. Put tealeaves into the teapot right before you leave for the tea gathering the next day.

Powdered tea has to be whisked in the tea bowls, and there is no way it can be placed in the bowls and be carried to the venue. It is, therefore, necessary to bring along a separate powdered tea container.

60. How to prepare the tea ware if two types of tea are to be brewed?

In the spirit of ‘simplicity and frugality’ advocated by the Sans Self Tea Gathering, we will not think along the line of ‘discarding the residue > rinse > and then put in another type of tealeaves’ when the organizer requests two teas be brewed. Instead, prepare an extra teapot, and pack another tea separately. The same set of teacups will be used.

Normally, such requests would be made for a gathering that lasts longer, or at a venue that is conducive for staying longer, or of long missed friends. There may be an intermission, or some other activities in between for the first and second situations mentioned above.

61. Preparing water for brewing and the choice of thermal flask

One of the rules of a Sans Self Tea Gathering is ‘to be self-equipped without expecting anything from the organizer’.  As such, each participant will have to bring along water for brewing. Given the improved temperature retention technology nowadays, the slight temperature drop in the flask will not affect the brew. However, if the water is kept in the flask longer than half a day, it is necessary to add hot water. The best time and place to do so is during meal break at the eatery you dine in.

Decide water temperature according to the type of tea you are going to brew. Make it 3°C to 5°C higher than required to provision for temperature drop on the way. Furthermore, the basic way of brewing adopted by the Sans Self Tea Gathering requires no pot warming. Use hot water to rinse the thermal flask before adding hot water to it will help eliminate heat loss. If the outside of the flask feels hot after hot water is poured in, insulation is inefficient and it is time to change the flask.

Opt for travel-size instead of household flasks. The size of thermal flask would depend on the number of cups to be served and rounds of brewing. Choose flasks made of impact-resistant and unbreakable materials, and look for one-push open button design – not only is this more convenient than the stopper type for pouring water out, you will not end up having a big splash in case the flask topples.

62. Sitting posture at a Sans Self Tea Gathering

Unless in the rare occasion where chairs and tables are made available, Sans Self Tea Gathering are normally held with participants sitting and brewing on the floor. How then should participants sit?  One can sit with parallel legs and bent knees (as in kneeling), with crossed legs and bent legs, or in a half-lotus position. We encourage kneel-sitting because it is more elegant and makes it easier for the participants to rise and serve tea. However, it would need a bit of practising for the inexperienced. Try gradually lengthen the time as you practise. Meanwhile, small collapsible chairs are allowed for participants with knee problem which do not allow them to sit on the floor.

Floor seating encourages closer interaction apart from the fact that there are no chairs and tables blocking the way. This goes with family members brewing tea together. What’s more, sitting on the floor allows you to feel the earth beneath you, giving rise to the feeling of harmony between man and land.

63. Some practical tips about the seating mat

Seating mats are essential since Sans Self Tea Gathering supports the idea of floor seating. In an outdoor setting, there will be small stones on the ground, so it is good to have the seating mat made of stretchable and durable materials; loose, spongy ones are not suitable.

Considering that Sans Self Tea Gatherings are organized in different locations, it is best to use tea ware that travels well. By the same token, seating mat has to be easy to carry. Consider seating mats that can be folded. A simple DIY version goes like this: Get a piece of dense sponge. Make a fabric cover slightly larger than the sponge and sew to divide it into four compartments. Cut the sponge into four squares of equal size. Insert a cut piece of sponge into a compartment and sew up. This way, you will have a seating mat that can be folded one-fourth of the size it opens up. Make sure the mat, when opens up, is large enough for you to be seated. If you are going to kneel-sit, the length of the mat should be slightly more than the distance between your knee and toes when seated. The width should be slightly more than that of the body when seated.

64. What should we bring along in addition, if it rains before the tea gathering or the ground is sandy/muddy?

Bring along a lightweight, water-proof cloth if the ground is wet or muddy. Lay it on the ground and put the seating mat and tea ware on top of it. This should take away the worries.

Why lightweight cloth, you may ask? We don’t suggest using plastic sheets because they are mostly lacking in visual appeal and are too slippery to stay in place, unless you can find some nice ones with a ‘cloth’ feel. By comparison, water-proof fabric looks more appealing. Lightweight material is easy to bring along and clean afterwards. This cloth should cover the area of the seating mat and brewing area; and yet, it should not be so big that it exceeds the area allocated by the organizer and may cause a slip or trip.

65. Attire and shoes for Sans Self Tea Gathering

This would depend on the occasion – formal gatherings require proper attire; for occasions among friends, casual clothing is fine. Whichever the case, the clothes you wear must allow you to be seated and brew tea with ease. Neckties and accessories such as long necklaces should be secured in place to avoid it finding its way into the tea infusion or hitting the tea ware.

Should the venue require participants to remove their shoes throughout the event, pay attention to the colour and thickness of the socks/stockings – a pair of very transparent silk stocking would create the impression of one being bare-footed.

For venue that does not require participants to take off their shoes throughout the event, choose shoes that can be ‘put on’ and ‘taken off’ easily. It will be inconvenient, not to say unbecoming, if you have to tie or untie your shoelaces or pulling your shoes strenuously on or off each time you get back to your seat or rise to offer tea.

66. What kind of preparation is required for a tea gathering that calls for tea time snacks?

If tea time snacks are to be shared during the tea gathering, participants have to prepare both the snacks and serving utensils. As the name suggests, these snacks are to be taken with tea. A small quantity will serve the purpose, since each participant will get to enjoy snacks brought along by several fellow participants. The flavour of these snacks should harmonize with that of the tea – avoid snacks that are too strong, too salty, too spicy or too sour in taste. Equally inappropriate will be snacks containing parts that require us to spit out at the end or those that are too chewy, as these will cause inconvenience and create anxiety.   Bring along snacks that are easy to handle, preferably individually packed.

The number of servings should match that of cups to be served. For example, the Notification specifies four cups are to be served, then bring along four servings of snack. If the participants are expected to offer tea to onlookers, the Notification will specify the amount of extra snacks required.

We should also prepare utensils for serving snacks. Bring along two small dishes; alternatively, use two pieces of paper towel. One of these should be placed on the tea serving tray for the snacks you’ve brought along; the other at an appropriate spot at the tea brewing area for others to offer snacks to you. Remember to pack equipment such as bamboo knife, if required.

67. Example of tea brewing at a Sans Self Tea Gathering: Small teapot brewing

As mentioned, Sans Self Tea Gathering encourages the use of travel tea ware for fuss-free tea brewing.  There is, however, no restriction on the style and brewing method. The ‘small pot’ brewing which we are going to talk about and the ‘lidded-cup’ brewing and ‘powdered tea’ brewing which we will discuss later are but for reference only.

Take your seat, and lay the seating mat on the floor. Stand behind the rear end of the mat, take off your shoes, and sit on the mat. Place the carrying bag on your right. If the ground is wet or too sandy/muddy, lay the cloth liner first before laying your seating mat, aligning the rear end of both. If there is no cloth liner, shift your seat slightly to avoid the inconvenient surface, provided this does not affect the order and the overall arrangement of the seats.

Place the tea serving tray in front of the seating mat. Leave some space between the tray and the seating mat as the tea brewing area. Take out the tea ware. Say you have bundled two teacups with the teapot together, and the other two teacups with the tea pitcher (in the event that each participant is to bring along four teacups). Take out the bundle with teapot first, unwrap and place the teacups and teapot on the tea serving tray. Put the wrapping cloth and cup covers back in the bag. Then, take out the bundle with the pitcher, unwrap, and lay the wrapping cloth (which doubles up as tea cloth) between the seating mat and tea serving tray. Remove the teapot from the tray and put it on the tea cloth, then put the two cups from the second bundle on the tray. Arrange the four cups properly, and make sure the teapot and tea pitcher are at the centre of the tea cloth.

Leave some space at the front end of the tea cloth for others to place their cups when they offer tea to you. Leave some space at the rear end of the tea cloth as well, to accommodate the tea towel and timer (tea towel could be replaced by paper towel, and timer could be replaced by your watch). For special reasons such as space constraint or children participate in brewing, the tea serving tray could be positioned to the right of the tea cloth to make the tray more accessible. Shift the tea cloth a bit to the left.

Take out the tea towel and timer. Place them behind the teapot and tea pitcher. The thermal flask should be placed to the left of the tea cloth (In general, participant will use their right hand to hold the teapot, and pour the water using their left hand).

According to standard procedure, tealeaves would have been put into the teapot. When it is the scheduled time for brewing, pour an appropriate amount of hot water from the flask into the teapot, and then sit quietly while tracking the time.  Don’t be distracted; have your mind settled down and track your time by simply counting your breath. When it is about time, check your timer to ascertain timing and pour all the tea infusion into the tea pitcher. Then, pour tea from the pitcher into the teacups. Hold the tea serving tray with both hands and rise to offer tea. Leave the last cup of tea on your tray and return to your seat. Place the cup on your tea cloth.

When everyone has finished the first cup, you may start brewing a second time. Follow the same routine – track the time, sit down quietly and pour the tea into the cups. This time, put the pitcher and tea towel on the tea serving tray. Hold the tea serving tray with both hands and rise to offer tea. Pour tea from the pitcher into the cups you have already offered; use the tea towel to catch any drip. Return to your seat and pour a cup for yourself.

When it is time for packing, wipe the cups you have drunk from with the tea towel. Bring along the tea serving tray and collect the cups you have served others. Return to your seat and place your cup onto the tray as well.

Screw back the cover of the flask (during the gathering, it is not necessary to do so each time after you have poured hot water; just close the inner opening will do), put it back into the carrying bag, and then put back the tea towel and timer.  Put two of the cups onto the tea cloth, and move the teapot to the tray. Take out two cup covers from the bag and put them on the two cups. Use the tea cloth (which doubles up as a wrapping cloth) to wrap the tea pitcher and the two covered cups into a bundle, and put this back in the bag. Take out the other wrapping cloth and the remaining cup covers.  Pack the teacups and teapot carefully and put them back into the bag. Put back the tea tray. Finish by folding the seating mat and cloth liner and put them back.

68. Example of tea brewing at a Sans Self Tea Gathering: Lidded cup brewing

You may want to brew with a lidded cup. In this case, you would have packed the lidded cup, the tea pitcher and cups into three separate bundles (some may want to wrap equal number of cups separately with the lidded cup and pitcher, making two bundles). Begin by laying the seating mat.  Put the tea serving tray in place, and take out the bundle of ‘cups’. Unwrap and put them on the tray, two in a stack; keep some space free on the tray.  Then, take out the ‘tea pitcher’ and unwrap, leaving it temporarily on the tray. Finally, take out the ‘lidded cup’. Unwrap and lay the wrapping cloth on the floor as the tea cloth. Move the tea pitcher to the centre of the tea cloth, side by side with the lidded cup. Leave some space at the front end of the tea cloth for others to place their cups when they offer tea to you. Meanwhile, place the tea towel and timer at the rear end of the tea cloth.

Tealeaves would have been added to the lidded cup beforehand. Brew tea by pouring in hot water. Track the time for the desired strength. Take up the lidded cup and pour all the tea infusion into the tea pitcher. Then, pour tea from the pitcher into the teacups. Offer tea with the tea serving tray. From the second brewing onwards, offer tea with pitcher on the tray, and pour tea into the cups you have already offered.

At the end of the gathering, pack tea ware individually. Put them back into the carrying bag in the reverse order.

69. Example of tea brewing at a Sans Self Tea Gathering: Powdered Tea Brewing (and Drinking)

For powdered tea to be served as the Sans Self Tea Gathering, follow the ‘Whisked Powdered Tea for Small Cups’ format.  Powdered tea is whisked in the tea bowl before being poured into small cups to be served.  As far as preparation concerned, wrap teacups and tea bowl into the first bundle, the tea caddy of powdered tea the second, and the tea scoop and tea whisk the third.  Follow the standard procedure to lay the seating mat and tea serving tray. Take out the second and then the third bundles, unwrap and put the tea caddy of powered tea, tea scoop and tea whisk on the tray. Take out the first bundle, use the wrapping cloth as tea cloth and lay it on the floor. Place the tea bowl at the centre of the tea cloth, the tea caddy to its left, and the tea scoop and tea whisk to its right. The tea cups should be placed on the tray.

Add an appropriate amount of powdered tea to the tea bowl, add water and whisk. Hold the bowl and pour it into the cups (use a ‘spouted tea bowl’, i.e., a tea bowl with a serving spout). Offer tea to others with the teacups on the tray. From the second brewing onwards, whisk the tea and bring over the tea bowl for serving.

When it is time for packing, pour some hot water into the tea bowl. Swirl the water around for a while and then pour it into your own cup; this will help dislodge the tea powder residue in the cup. Take this as a ‘parting drink’ and finish it in one if not two cups.  Fellow tea drinkers may do the same – pour some hot water into the cup with powdered tea residue, swirl and drink before wiping the cup.

70. There is no pot warming or cup warming in the description of the methods above. Why?

As the simple approach of a Sans Self Tea Gathering  goes, the steps of putting in tealeaves, appreciating the appearance, taking in the aroma and warming the cups and others have been eliminated. Tealeaves are to be put into the teapot before leaving home.

Appreciating the appearance and taking in the aroma of the tealeaves would help tea brewers decide the brewing methods. Should the guests be invited to do the same, it will complicate the procedure on the one hand, and disturb brewers from making correct judgement on the other. One of the principles observed by a Sans Self Tea Gathering is “making an effort to brew well”. Tea brewers need to have thorough understanding of the tealeaves before brewing. They will judge the amount to be used by appreciating the appearance of the tealeaves. Meanwhile, brewing time becomes extremely important after two to three brewings, and one way to ensure sound judgement is by taking in the aroma. Pot warming helps prevent teapot from drawing too much heat from the water. To compensate for the omission of pot warming, just increase the water temperature when you are preparing the water, or slightly extend the duration of brewing.  Cup warming helps prevent tea infusion from cooling too fast. Considering the relatively short distance between participants, and the duration from the time tea is offered to the time it is consumed, the tea infusion would not have cooled significantly. As such, this step can be eliminated.

71. Lighting requirement for an evening Sans Self Tea Gathering

An evening Sans Self Tea Gathering reminds participants just how beautiful a night it is. Participants would have to bring along their own lighting device, which would have to comply with the following requirements:

a. It must be easy to carry, safe and hassle-free.  If the outing involves a flight journey, check if the fuel is allowed to be checked-in.

b. Bring along, or create your own lighting equipment. This will add colour and diversity to a wonderful evening event.

c. Pay attention to wind-proof design that keeps it out of draughts – this is important especially with candle or oil lamps.

d. Choose light that shines downwards. Make sure it lights up the tea ware, especially the tip of the spout to ensure you can see clearly the height of the stream of water being poured into the teapot.  Do not rely on hand-held lighting device (such as a torch); this may accidently points at the others when you put it down on the floor.

e. The lighting should last for an hour and a half, and above. Light up your area from the time of preparation – do not wait until you begin brewing. This is to make sure the ‘tea ware appreciation and networking’ session is bright enough for the participants.  For battery-operated device, bring a spare set for replacement.

72. What is to be achieved with a Sans Self Tea Gathering?

A Sans Self Tea Gathering enables participants to embrace the spirit of the Way of Tea, including an absence of hierarchy, no expectation of reciprocity, setting aside of personal preferences, and an effort to improve and progress. There are no facilitators or event directors, and silence is observed throughout the gathering to reveal the beauty of collective rhythm. The aim of the tea gathering is achieved if the above has been fulfilled.

Making new friends during the pre-event ‘tea ware appreciation and networking’ session or other post-event activities, and catching up with old friends at the gathering could be considered added values of Sans Self Tea Gathering.

Some participants may find it too much of a hassle to travel this far with tea ware on tow for just a few rounds of tea. There may even be a sense of loss if the gathering fails to bring out the characteristics of Sans Self Tea Gathering.

To enrich the experience, one may include post-event activities such as talk, music performance or hiking.

73. How to enjoy Sans Self Tea Gathering in a relaxed manner?

Avoid focusing too much on socializing, and make sure you prepare yourself well, as follows:

a. Familiarize yourself with the rules of Sans Self Tea Gathering. This way, you will not make mistakes that may spoil your mood.

b. Prepare all the necessary items and make sure they work properly. Avoid poorly-designed tea pitcher that drips, teapots with insufficient straining capacity, and seating mats that are too soft to cushion you comfortably against small stones – these will stop you from fully enjoying the experience.

c. Practice brewing beforehand.  Know how much water is needed for a certain number of cups, the required water temperature, and the way to brew a perfect cup. It will be too late to apologize if what you offer is far from being perfect.

d. Find a way to sit comfortably on the floor, and get used to it. This requires practice, whichever you are going to sit – numbness and pain will take away the pleasure you should be feeling at a Sans Self Tea Gathering.

74. Choose tea ware that travels well for Sans Self Tea Gathering.

Get yourself a dedicated set of ‘Sans Self Tea Gathering Tea Ware’ – this not only comes in handy, but also doubles up as a travel set.

It could be further simplified to ‘a pot, two cups and a flask’ if you are travelling alone. Put the covers on the teacups and hook them onto the spout and handle of the teapot. Wrap them with a wrapping cloth into a bundle. Bring along a travel-size flask of hot water.

When you are on the plane, on the train or visiting a friend, simply unwrap the bundle and lay the wrapping cloth on the table as tea cloth. Place the teapot at the centre, and the two cups in front of the pot, side by side. Tealeaves would have been added to the teapot before you leave home, so just pour water from the flask, track the time (with the timer, your watch, the wall clock or by mental counting). When the appropriate strength is attained, pour all the tea infusion into the cups by going back and forth (The amount of water must be correct to ensure all the tea infusion is emptied. By going back and forth, the strength of tea will be even between the two cups). When you are enjoying the tea alone, take the first cup followed by the second cup. When you are on a visit, offer a cup to your friend. When you are on the plane on the train sitting next to a stranger, offer a cup to him/her.  Three rounds afterwards, you may pack your tea ware and continue with the journey. When you are back at the hotel, clean and leave the pot, cups, cup covers and wrapping cloth to dry. The following day, you may add some tealeaves to the teapot, and with ‘a pot, two cups and a flask’, set off for another satisfying day accompanied by tea.

 

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第六章 與會者事前的準備-蔡荣章

《無我茶會Sans Self Tea Gathering 180條》

蔡荣章著Author:Rong-tsang Tsai

ISBN978-957-9690-08-9 ,“无我茶会Sans Self Tea Gathering180,”, First edition: 1999.9, Second edition: 2010.9。《无我茶会180条》,1999.9第一版,2010.9第二版,台北陆羽茶艺股份有限公司,2012.05.20修订版。

第六章 與會者事前的準備

53.無我茶會茶具「精儉」的要求

無我茶會不僅行政工作要力求簡便,個人攜帶的茶具也要簡便,是以「旅行用茶具」作為準備的原則,因為簡便才不至於把很多時間花在茶具的準備、操作與收拾上,才有多餘的時間可以體會、享受茶會的氣氛與意境。

無我茶會還要求不帶珍貴的茶具,雖然珍貴的茶具在「茶具觀摩與聯誼」的時候會造成熱烈的迴響,但也容易引起比較,出發前就思量著應帶什麼茶具才能夠在會上奪得異彩。攜帶珍貴的茶具,一路上也會提心吊膽,失掉了許多參加茶會的樂趣。再說,簡便也是吾人處世很好的一種態度,包括對名、對利、對物,以及方法與手段。

上述所說的「珍貴」,是指一般人的衡量標準,如果使用者對該件茶具已習以為常,攜帶上、使用上都不會造成得失上的太大負擔,我們可以將之排除在“不宜攜帶”的範圍。

54.無我茶會的基本道具

無我茶會若是席地而坐,應該準備一塊「坐墊」。無我茶會是人人泡茶,所以要有泡茶的「壺」,或打末茶的「碗」。無我茶會是人人奉茶,所以要有「杯子」,杯子的數量依「公告事項」所定。如果用壺泡茶,還要有容納茶湯的「茶盅」,以便將茶分倒入杯;因為即使第一道可用平均分茶法直接將茶倒入杯中,但第二道以後呢?必須將泡好的茶全部倒入盅內,然後端茶盅出去奉茶。因為你的杯子是分散在客人那邊,如果直接以壺出去倒茶,先倒的必淡,後倒的必濃,要來回倒以求濃度平均是不方便的。為了端杯或端茶盅、茶碗(打末茶時)出去奉茶,需要一個「奉茶盤」。

為了簡便,以壺泡茶時,可以在出門前將準備沖泡的茶葉放入壺內,這樣就不必另行攜帶放茶葉的「茶罐」;但如果是打末茶,就必須準備裝有末茶的茶罐。打末茶時,還要有舀末茶的「茶杓」及打末茶的「茶筅」。

不論泡茶或打「末茶」,都必須有熱水,所以必須配備熱水瓶,裝妥所需溫度的熱水。泡茶需要控制茶葉浸泡的時間,所以攜帶一只讀秒的「計時器」,或以手錶代替。泡茶、奉茶時,難免有茶水滴落,有條「茶巾」比較方便,這條茶巾還可以在收拾茶具之前用來擦拭自已用過的杯子。

泡茶時(包括打末茶),應該有條「泡茶巾」鋪在地上(桌上泡茶時則鋪在桌上),上面放置茶具,其外緣還要留出空間作為別人奉茶給自己的地方。這條泡茶巾可以用包裹茶具的「包壺巾」代替,也可以另行準備。

以上這些茶具用「茶具袋」裝著,就可以參加無我茶會了。

无我茶会小壶茶法茶具

无我茶会抹茶法茶具

 55.無我茶會的「茶具」應注意哪些使用上的功能

泡茶用的茶壺,其出水孔要有濾網,免得被茶葉堵塞而出水不良。濾網要細,否則茶湯中細渣太多,喝茶的人無法將茶湯喝光,每次留一些在杯內,不但影響下一道的水溫,最後擦拭杯子時也不方便。在茶盅的盅口加一個「濾網」可以彌補茶壺濾渣功能的不足。茶盅最主要的功能是分茶入杯,盅嘴要能「斷水」,否則倒茶時會有茶水滴落到外面來,出去奉茶時會把別人的泡茶區弄濕。(如果在地毯上泡茶,應立即以茶巾或紙巾將茶湯儘量吸乾,否則染上茶色後不容易去除。)

壺、盅的大小應配合杯數的需要,無我茶會使用的杯子不要超過50cc,所倒茶湯也以八分滿為限,因為往往要喝數位朋友的數道茶。杯子太大,壺盅也要大,保溫瓶也要大,都導致茶具攜帶上的不便。杯子最好厚重一些,薄胎的杯子,在戶外使用,一遇風大,容易被吹倒。底部細小的盞形杯也不適宜,不但風吹易倒,奉茶走動時也容易傾倒。

奉茶盤不要太大,放得下奉茶的杯子即可。奉茶盤的表面不要太光滑,否則起身奉茶,杯子容易滑動。

56.如何攜帶茶具才好

無我茶會的茶具必須有攜帶上防破損的包裝。壺、盅或碗可用「包壺巾」包紮,杯子不論是疊在一起包成一包,還是扣在壺身上包成一包,都要有「杯套」將杯子保護好,否則直接接觸擠壓容易破損。保溫瓶放置的地方要能固定,避免撞擊茶具。

裝茶具的袋子規劃成數個區域,例如一個區域放熱水瓶,一個區域放壺、盅、杯等主茶具,一個區域放奉茶盤、茶巾、計時器等物品,一個區域放坐墊,一個區域放相機等個人物品。如此在擺設茶具、收拾茶具時才不致亂成一團。茶具袋若能背在身上,行動起來較為方便。

出國或遠地參加無我茶會,若將茶具作為托運行李,除行李箱要硬殼外,每件茶具還要以衣物加強保護,且避免在箱內碰撞。若沒有把握,最好作為隨身行李攜帶。

无我茶会一壶二杯包紮法

无我茶会一盅二杯包紮法

57.保護茶具的包裝器材有何應留意的地方

無我茶會茶具的包裝器材除安全性外應注意衛生、無味與美觀。「衛生」包括材料、印刷的無污染與便於清洗。包材若有「氣味」會附著於茶具或被茶葉吸收。包材還得要求「美觀」,因為它與茶具為伍,解開與打包的過程都是「泡茶」的一部分,順利、美好與否都影響到參加者的心情。繼續使用商店的包裝材料,或用家裡的毛巾、餐巾來包裹,雖然衛生、氣味可能無慮,但操作過程難免顯得粗糙。

58.帶什麼「茶」才好

這個問題包括帶何種茶與什麼等級的茶。「帶何種茶」要看主辦單位在「公告事項」上怎麼約定,原則是「種類不拘」或哪一大類的茶。至於「帶什麼等級的茶」,不必特意去買什麼等級的茶,但有異味的茶、自己不喜歡的茶是不可以帶去參加無我茶會的,因為那已經不是「無好惡之心」所訴求的範圍。

什麼情況主辦單位才會指定帶特種茶類呢?如這次無我茶會在「早春」召開,茶會的目的又在提醒人們注意春天的到來,公告事項上可能會要求大家都帶綠茶來,當然何種綠茶就不能再設限了。另一種狀況是為追念某人的無我茶會,此人與某種茶有特殊的緣分,於是主辦單位要大家都帶那種茶。

59.「茶」如何攜帶(什麼時候將茶放入壺內攜帶才好)

除非是沖泡「粉末茶」,否則可以在出門前將茶放入壺內,無需另行攜帶一罐茶葉,因為無我茶會要求「精儉」。有人擔心這樣做會不會影響茶葉的品質?如果茶會就在當天進行,而且壺是乾燥的,茶具袋內又沒有其他氣味,茶葉放在壺內是無妨的;若茶會是在隔天以後舉行,那就準備一罐茶葉放在行李箱內,出門參加茶會前才將茶葉放入壺內。

粉末茶一般都在碗內調打而成,而且無法事先放置碗內,所以只得另備容器攜帶。

60.泡兩種茶葉時,茶具如何準備

由於無我茶會講求精儉,所以當主辦單位要求泡兩種茶時,我們不會往「去渣、清洗、再放第二種茶」的方向思考,而是在準備茶具時多準備一把壺,裝另外一種茶,單獨包成一包,茶杯只用一套,不做更換。

從事此「泡兩種茶」的規劃,一定是主辦單位認為要在會場上停留較長的時間,或許是環境適合較長時間的逗留,或因闊別多年的老友相聚。第一種茶與第二種茶中間大概會安排一段休息或其他活動。

61.泡茶用水的準備及對保溫瓶的要求

無我茶會有一條規則,即是「萬事自備,不求主辦單位為你做些什麼。」所以泡茶用水也是自己準備妥帶去。現在旅行用保溫瓶製作得不錯,半天內水溫降得不多,不會影響泡茶效果,但如果超過半天,就要考慮途中有什麼地方可以加水,半天總會遇到吃飯時間,可以利用這個機會裝水。

裝入保溫瓶的水溫要依泡什麼茶而定,而且比所需要的高3 ~5°C左右,因為途中會降一點,而且無我茶會的簡便泡茶法是不溫壺的。將保溫瓶先用熱水涮過再裝,可減少保溫瓶本身吸掉的熱量。若裝入熱水後,發覺保溫瓶外表熱熱的,表示保溫瓶的隔熱效果出了問題,應更換一支使用。

保溫瓶以旅行用的形式為宜,家庭用的大隻保溫瓶不方便。旅行用保溫瓶的大小視該次茶會泡幾杯茶、泡幾道茶、將用掉多少熱水而定。保溫瓶以摔倒不破的材質為佳,倒水時不必拔掉整個瓶塞,只按一下蓋鈕者更佳,因為這種型式的保溫瓶,泡茶時較方便,萬一傾倒時也不至於讓熱水大量潑出。

62.無我茶會就坐方式的探討

無我茶會除特殊情況使用桌椅泡茶外,最方便的是大家席地而坐、席地泡茶。若是席地而坐,用何種坐姿呢?跪坐、盤坐、單盤坐,都可以,但我們鼓勵跪坐,因為這種坐法比較美觀,而且起身奉茶比較方便,只是未曾習慣的人必須預作練習,逐次增加跪坐的時間。如果因為膝蓋不好無法席地而坐,備把小摺椅是被允許的。

無我茶會鼓勵席地而坐,除了方便外,沒有桌椅的阻擋,人與人間更加親密,即使家人一起泡茶,也是同樣道理。席地而坐還可以體會人與大地結合的感覺。

63.坐墊的功能要求

由於無我茶會鼓勵席地而坐,所以坐墊成了必備之物。室外地面常會有小石子,所以坐墊的質地要具彈性又要堅韌,太鬆軟的海綿不適宜。

無我茶會經常外出舉辦,所以使用旅行用茶具,坐墊也要考慮可以摺疊者。將堅韌的海綿墊裁成四塊,裝在縫成四方組合的布套內,就成了可以摺成四摺的坐墊。攤開後的面積,要足夠讓您坐下,如果是採取跪坐的方式,其長度要稍大於跪坐後膝蓋到趾間的距離,寬度要微大於坐下後身體的寬度。

64.茶會前下過雨,或擔心坐在泥地上,應增加什麼配備

地面潮濕,或會場上有泥土地,這時若有一條防潮的薄布鋪在地上,上面再放置坐墊與茶具,就沒有任何煩惱了。

為什麼強調“薄布”,因為若用塑膠布,除非製作得像布料的質感,否則不好看,而且容易滑動。經防潮處理的布料看來較美觀,薄一點容易攜帶與清洗。這塊墊布的面積要能涵蓋坐墊與自己泡茶的地方,但也不能太大,免得佔用的面積超過了主辦單位的規劃,也避免別人走動時踏到或絆著了。

65.無我茶會的服裝與鞋子

參加無我茶會的穿着要配合茶會的性質,若正式的茶會,穿著正式一點的服裝,若一些好友相聚,輕鬆一點無妨。但不論正式與否,方便「就坐」與「泡茶」都是要考慮的,胸前的領帶與飾物要固定在衣服上,免得泡茶、奉茶時撞擊到茶具或浸泡到茶湯。

如果茶會在必須全程脫鞋子的地方舉行,要注意襪子的顏色與厚薄,透明度太強的絲襪,看來會像赤腳的樣子。

不需全程脫鞋子的地方,鞋子也要挑選「穿」、「脫」方便的款式,否則脫鞋坐上坐墊、穿鞋出去奉茶,每次都得鬆綁鞋帶或以手拉扯鞋子,不方便又不雅觀。

66.茶會間安排有茶食享用時,如何準備

茶會間若安排有茶食享用,參加者就必須準備茶食與供應的設備。所謂茶食是指喝茶間搭配的小點心,份量不要多,因為每人都要享用數位茶友帶來的茶食。味道不要太強,太鹹、太辣、太酸,皆與茶味不和諧。不要吃了尚需吐渣的食品,也不要不易咀嚼的食物,這些皆為茶友帶來困擾。為攜帶與拿取的方便,最好每份茶食皆有獨立的包裝。

攜帶多少份數呢?相同於泡茶的杯數,公告事項上寫明帶四杯,就帶四份茶食。若此次茶會尚奉茶給圍觀的來賓,則依公告事項的約定攜帶額外的茶食。

除茶食外,尚需準備放置茶食的器皿。可帶二個小盤子,但為求簡便,可用二張餐巾紙代替,一張放在奉茶盤上放茶食,一張放在泡茶區適當的地方供別人放茶食。若供應的茶食尚需竹刀之類的器物,可另行準備。

67.無我茶會泡茶法舉例之一:小壺茶

無我茶會是攜帶旅行用茶具,以簡便泡茶法泡茶,但茶具的形式與泡法不拘。現在提到的「小壺茶法」與後面提到的「蓋碗茶法」與「末茶法」僅供參考而已。

找到自己的座位後,先將坐墊攤開鋪妥,站在坐墊的後方,將鞋子脫下,坐在坐墊上,茶具袋放在身體的右側。若地上潮濕或泥沙太多,而且帶有墊布,則先鋪上墊布,再對齊墊布的後緣放置坐墊。若未攜帶墊布,在不影響座位秩序下,稍微挪一下位子,以避開不便的地面是被允許的。

取出奉茶盤,放在坐墊的前方,奉茶盤與坐墊間空出個「泡茶區」。取出茶具,若您的包法是二杯與壺包成一包,另二杯與盅包成一包(假設約定泡四杯),則先取出壺的那一包,打開後將杯子與壺移放奉茶盤上,收起包壺巾與杯套;再取出“盅”的那一包,打開包壺巾後就鋪在坐墊與奉茶盤間作為泡茶巾使用。將奉茶盤上的壺拿回泡茶巾上,將新取出的二個杯子放上奉茶盤,將四個杯子在奉茶盤上排妥,將壺與盅在泡茶巾的中間部位擺好。泡茶巾的前端留出空間,作為別人前來奉茶時擺放茶杯的地方,泡茶巾的後端騰出空間,用以放置茶巾與計時器。(茶巾可用紙巾代替,計時器可用手錶代替。)若由於場地的關係或小朋友泡茶,端取奉茶盤不方便,可將奉茶盤改放到泡茶巾的右側,只要將泡茶巾稍微向左移一些即可。

拿出茶巾與計時器,放在壺、盅的下方。拿出熱水瓶,放在泡茶巾的左側。(一般習慣以左手沖水,以右手持壺。)

標準的做法是茶葉已放在壺中,到了約定泡茶的時間,打開熱水瓶,於壺內沖入適量的熱水,計時、靜坐。這時不必操心別人到底怎樣了,讓自己安靜下來,可利用呼吸的次數測定茶葉浸泡的時間,到了差不多該倒茶的時候,核對一下計時器,將茶湯全部倒入盅內。持茶盅將茶分倒入杯。雙手端起奉茶盤,起身出去奉茶,最後一杯等回座後放下奉茶盤,才端放在自己的泡茶巾上。

看大家大致喝完第一道茶,開始沖泡第二道,依舊計時、靜坐、倒茶,然後將茶盅與茶巾移放奉茶盤上,雙手端起奉茶盤出去奉茶,持茶盅將茶倒於自己奉出去的杯子內,萬一有茶水滴落,用茶巾擦乾,回座位後也為自已斟上一杯。

收茶具時,先將自己喝過的杯子用茶巾擦拭一下,端奉茶盤出去收回自己的杯子。回座位後將自己的一杯也放回奉茶盤。

將熱水瓶蓋妥(每次沖水後不必蓋上外蓋,只將內塞出水口關上即可),收回茶具袋內。將茶巾與計時器收妥,從奉茶盤上取下二個杯子,放到泡茶巾上,泡茶巾上的茶壺暫放到奉茶盤上,從茶具袋內取出杯套,將二杯與盅包好收回袋內。從袋內取出另一條包壺巾與杯套,將剩下的二杯與壺收好。接著收拾奉茶盤,最後起身收拾坐墊與墊布。

68.無我茶會泡茶法舉例之二:蓋碗茶

如果您是以蓋碗做為沖泡器,而且將蓋碗、茶盅、杯子分成三部分包裝(也可以將杯子分散與蓋碗、茶盅一起包裝),在鋪好坐墊,放妥奉茶盤後,先拿出「杯子」的一包,打開後將杯子放於奉茶盤上,並二個二個疊放在一起,以便留出部分奉茶盤的空間。接著拿出「茶盅」的一包,打開後將茶盅暫放到奉茶盤上。最後拿出「蓋碗」的一包,打開包壺巾後就鋪在地面上作為泡茶巾,將茶盅拿到泡茶巾上,與蓋碗在泡茶巾的中間排成一列。泡茶巾的前端依然騰出作為別人前來奉茶的地方,泡茶巾的後方放置茶巾與計時器。

茶葉是事先放在蓋碗內的,泡茶時依舊沖水、計時,浸泡到適當濃度,持蓋碗將茶湯一次倒於茶盅內,再持茶盅將茶分倒入杯,端奉茶盤出去奉茶。第二道以後則端茶盅出去,將茶倒於自己奉出去的杯子內。

泡完茶,收茶具時仍依取出時之相反次序,將之一件件收回茶具袋內。

69.無我茶會泡茶法舉例之三:粉末茶(含飲用法)

如果您準備在無我茶會時沖泡粉末茶,最好採用「末茶小杯點茶法」的方式,也就是在茶碗內將末茶打妥後,分倒於小杯內奉給茶友們喝。這時茶碗與杯子可以包成第一包,末茶罐第二包,茶杓與茶筅第三包。依前述放妥坐墊、奉茶盤,逐次拿出第二包與第三包,將末茶罐與茶杓、茶筅放於奉茶盤上。拿出第一包,將包壺巾鋪在地上作為泡茶巾,茶碗放在泡茶巾的正中央,末茶罐拿到茶碗的左側,茶杓與茶筅拿到茶碗的右側,茶杯放於奉茶盤上。

泡茶時,取適量的末茶於碗內,沖水、打茶,持茶碗將茶分倒入杯(這時的茶碗應是「有流茶碗」,也就是設計有倒嘴的茶碗),端奉茶盤出去奉茶。第二道以後,將茶打好,以奉茶盤端碗出去奉茶。

到了最後的收拾茶具,擦拭杯子前,倒些水涮一下茶碗,涮碗的水再沖一下自己喝末茶的杯子,免得碗與杯內黏附太多的末茶。沖完杯子的茶湯作為「回味湯」喝掉,一杯喝不完,喝二杯。被奉末茶的人也可以這樣做,倒一些熱水于盛末茶的杯子內涮一下,喝下茶湯後再擦拭杯子。

70.上述泡茶法舉例,為何都沒有提到溫壺、燙杯等動作

因為無我茶會是使用簡便的泡茶法,所以省略了置茶、賞茶、聞香、燙杯……等動作。置茶改在出門前就將茶葉放入壺中。賞茶、聞香除供泡茶者作為判斷茶葉沖泡法的參考資料外,不讓客人為之,一方面是因為若全面實施,過程太過繁瑣,二方面是加重「泡茶者要把茶泡好」的意念。泡茶者泡茶前應對茶有充分的瞭解,所以必須仔細觀賞,尤其對置茶量的判斷;二、三道以後對浸泡時間的掌握很重要,可利用每次沖泡前的「聞香」判斷所需浸泡的時間。溫壺的主要目的在減少壺身吸收水溫,省略後只要提高備水時的溫度或稍微延長茶葉浸泡的時間,就可以補救過來。燙杯的目的在於減少茶湯降溫的速度,但以無我茶會奉茶的距離與所需時間來看,端到客人面前,等到客人飲用時還不至於變得太冷,所以省略無妨。

71.無我茶會對「夜晚茶會燈」的要求

晚上舉辦無我茶會是要提醒人們欣賞夜色之美,每人自備一盞個人照明

用燈,這盞「夜晚茶會燈」的要求如下:

a.便於攜帶,而且安全無慮。若是搭飛機,應考慮所準備的燃料是否可以獲准上機。

b.每人自行準備,甚至自己創作,避免大家採購同一型式的燈具。

c.考慮到防風的功能,尤其是使用蠟燭與油燈的時候。

d.燈光要能朝下照射到茶具,尤其是壺口,否則看不清楚沖水的高度。不要依賴手拿著燈具照射(如使用手電筒),否則放下後,一不小心就照射到別人的臉上。

e.續燃力要在一個半小時以上,因為從備具起就要點亮,不能到了要泡茶的時候才打開,否則「茶具觀摩與聯誼」的時間太黯淡。若使用小電池,可多帶一組,以便半途更換。

72.參加無我茶會應達成多少目的

參加無我茶會的主要目的是透過茶會的進行,體會無尊卑之分、無報償之心、無好惡之心、求精進之心等的茶道精神,並享受無需指揮、靜默不語等的群體律動之美。若能專心於如此境界的把握與體認,茶會目的足矣。

若能於會前的「茶具觀摩與聯誼時間」、會後的其他活動裡認識更多的朋友、與老友敘敘舊,當是參加茶會的另一項收穫。

有些人認為老遠帶著茶具來泡這麼幾道茶不划算,若再遇上他所參加的茶會沒能將無我茶會的特質表現,更難免有失落感。

如果要使茶會更加豐富,可在茶會結束後繼續安排一些活動,如演講、音樂會、登山等。

73.如何輕鬆愉快地享受無我茶會

要能輕鬆愉快地享受無我茶會,除不要有太多社交性的目的外,還要有下列的預先準備:

a.熟知無我茶會的規則。如此才不至於發生錯誤而影響心情。

b.備妥所需的道具,而且功能完善。如果茶盅斷水功能不良,奉茶時茶湯到處滴落;濾渣功能不佳,不是茶湯倒得不順暢,就是茶湯裡的茶渣很多;坐墊堅韌度不夠,就坐時小石子刺痛了腳。這些都會讓您無法安心參與茶會。

c.熟練泡茶技藝。知道沖多少水方夠所需杯數的湯量;怎樣的溫度、如何泡法才能得出高品質的茶湯……,否則把茶泡壞了,抱歉都來不及。

d.讓自己坐得舒服。不論採取何種坐姿,都要預作練習,使自己坐立自如,否則雙腳麻痛,如何輕鬆愉快。

74.無我茶會的茶具就是「旅行用茶具」

為自己準備一套「無我茶會茶具」,不但可以參加無我茶會,也是一套「旅行用茶具」,出門旅行就可以帶著隨行。

如果只是一個人旅行,還可以將元件簡化成「一壺二杯一熱水」,二個杯子用杯套套著,倒扣在壺嘴與壺把上,用包壺巾包紮起來,熱水以小型旅行用保溫瓶裝著。

在飛機上、火車裡,或拜訪朋友時,將包壺巾打開,鋪在桌面上作為泡茶巾,壺擺在泡茶巾的中央,兩個杯子排列在壺的前面。茶葉已事先放入壺中,打開熱水瓶,沖水、計時(用計時器、手錶、現場的掛鐘或心算),適當濃度後,來回將茶湯全倒於兩個杯子內(要先知道沖多少水才可一次將茶倒光,來回倒茶的目的是使濃度平均)。一人獨飲時,先喝第一杯,再喝第二杯;拜訪客人時,一杯奉給客人;飛機上、火車裡,旁邊坐著一位陌生人,另一杯就奉給他。這樣泡個三回茶,將茶具收好,繼續前程。回旅館後,將壺、杯、杯套、包壺巾清洗晾乾,第二天出門時,再放一些茶葉入壺,「一壺二杯一熱水」放入背包,又是一天有茶為伴的日子。

  (2000)

品茗馆供应茶食的观念-20130401周一喝茶慢-许玉莲

品茗馆供应茶食的观念

许玉莲

20130401周一喝茶慢MONDAY SLOW TEA

本篇谈茶与食的观念,是指二小时以内结束的品茗会,不包括一些茶会是连着早、午、晚饭一起举办的,茶与餐食应如何准备另外谈。

有规定什么茶一定要配咸味茶食、什么茶一定要配酸的、甜的、或辣的吗?我们认为这种规定没有一定的意义,不主张如此规定,品茶不需要茶食也能单独进行,单独就茶本身的味道来品茶,反而更加能客观地欣赏它。茶本身的味道变化多端而有层次,滋味无穷,不必特别依赖茶食给它辅味。在茶席上偶尔也供应茶食,那只不过为了烘托品茗过程中的一些趣意,茶是主旋律,前奏或过门或结尾可以有茶食点缀。

既然茶是主角,品茗是主调,茶食与之搭配时应该长什么样子才能与之协奏共鸣,不会产生干扰及减弱作用呢?首先我们要求一.茶食的味道:不可供应酸味、或引起辣感的食品,以及带强烈奇异味道的食品。这样会刺激口腔,削弱茶味的强度,消减味蕾对茶的灵敏度。

二.不可用油炸物、腌制果脯当茶食。太油腻、过多加工导致离开食材原味太远,拿来搭配茶的话浪费了茶。

三.茶食的口感:不可是硬块难咀嚼之物,这类食品需要含在口腔咬很久,需要很多唾液去溶化它、此举「浪费口水」,容易让口腔及味觉疲劳,甚至会使口腔肌肉受损,影响接下来的品茗。不可用冰冻食物,口腔会产生麻木感,不宜品茗。

四.茶食的结构:不可供应有骨头或渣滓、或需要剥壳、去外皮或贴着一张纸的食品,这些多余物造成食用者的不方便,也令茶会的进程产生很多与茶无关的繁复手续。也不要提供汤水做茶食,茶食上也不要用「椰丝、葱花」类容易脱落的食品点缀。

品茗馆供应茶食首先必须建立的态度:茶食要自己做。「自己做」可以有比较广义的解释,即馆里任何一位工作人员,无论泡茶师、厨师、助理或管理者等都可亲手做一些自己很会做的食物,也包括品茗馆策划后安排一些相熟的师傅做,这里强调泡茶师对茶与茶食的配搭要有自主,知道茶食的好坏、知道那种茶食适合否?应该否?了解那个茶食是谁做的?用哪种食材?有没有依照品茗馆的要求来制作?就像找茶要了解茶这样子,而不会因为茶食是配角,所以就随便买一些现成的糕点回来,填饱肚子也好满足口欲也好,不管了。泡茶师对茶食的感情要像对茶的感情一样那般的重。再来的一个态度:茶食要当天做,这种茶食吃起来永远有新鲜感,更有感动,人们吃起来特别有灵性。

茶食应该长什么样子呢?我们有以下主张,一.茶食的味道:以食材原味为主,如南瓜、香蕉、鸡蛋、米浆、玉米粒、芋头等都是一等一香味俱佳的材料,可以当各种糕点的配料。要有变化时,可加入少许糖或盐,给它做成单纯的甜品或咸品也无不可,不应过度调味。

二.茶食的烹饪法:应以蒸熟为主,如各类蒸糕、馒头,地瓜亦可。也可拌面,或摊一个饼,应以优质原材、细致手法、简单的味道、制法、操作去实施。

三.茶食的口感:酥软、细绵是最好,含在口腔里品赏一番随即像溶化掉的感觉,与品茶的感觉同性质,很容易相融合。不要花费太多力气与唾液在一件茶食上,那会造成对抗作用。茶食带微温是很好的,室温的摊凉亦可。

四.茶食的结构:不必规定任何造型,惟需要设计成取拿容易的形状,以一支小叉、一根汤匙拿到,或两根手指就可取得。有人怀疑可用手指去拿茶食吗?当然可以,参加茶会或品茗前大家先洗手就好了。

五.茶食的大小:拿起来可直接一口放进嘴巴,这种大小最适合,可以的话就做成这样,否则上桌前要将之切成这个大小。茶食大小适口,大大减轻茶法、茶会程序,可避免制造剩余、收拾残局及要运用很多餐具的问题。我们只是要给味蕾制造一个「二重唱、三重唱」的丰富感觉,而不是要「吃饱」的感觉,所以茶食不要大。

以下品茗馆之泡茶师自制茶食举例:

制作/摄影.许玉莲

现代茶思想糯米饭

一.糯米饭

用料:糯米。龙眼干(之前用水泡一下,一会儿即可拿上来用干净纸巾吸水。备用。)用具:蒸笼。做法:糯米冲洗之后,用水浸泡一段时间。调放适当水量入米。将之置入蒸笼,隔水蒸熟。将熟糯米饭捏成一口大的小饭团。把龙眼干置饭团上。

现代茶思想土豆泥沙拉

二.土豆泥沙拉

用料:土豆。生菜(之前撕片、如汤匙般大小,备用。)。芝麻(之前烤一烤,备用。)用具:烤箱。做法:土豆冲洗后,整粒用锡纸包裹好。放入烤箱,烤熟。取出土豆放入碗内,用叉子将土豆压成泥状。调入少许黄油(butter)混匀。加少许黑芝麻拌一拌。将做好的土豆泥挖一匙,放入生菜片。

现代茶思想蒸木薯

三.蒸木薯

用料:木薯。用具:蒸笼。做法:木薯洗净,切段。放入蒸笼隔水蒸熟。

现代茶思想柿子干

四.柿子饼

采用完全无调味料,自然干燥的新鲜柿子饼,切小块。

现代茶思想杏仁

五.杏仁子

用料:杏仁子。用具:烤箱。做法:生杏仁子,放进烤箱烤一会。

  (1979)

《茶铎八音-茶文化复兴之声》台湾商务印书馆出版-许玉莲著

茶道书籍介绍:《茶铎八音-茶文化复兴之声》

出版:台湾商务印书馆(20130301

ISBN9789570528046

作者:许玉莲

目录~介绍

现代茶思想茶铎八音

序-品茶的生活艺术.方鹏程

序 –那个时代,那杯茶.张锦忠

序-《茶鐸八音》茶文化復興之聲.蔡荣章

序 -我的茶文化辨識系統.许玉莲

第一篇 茶道觀念
1 茶道藝術家的聖戰
2 泡茶的藝術美
3 品茗的藝術美
4 茶湯的藝術美
5 賞茶的藝術美
6 茶具上的標籤可去可留
7 茶道無正式與非正式之分
8 茶席茶會需要音樂陪襯嗎
9 茶道作品要說自己的話
10 茶席與音樂的關係
11 茶法的真義
12 誰來泡茶的重要性
13 喝茶慢的必要
14 茶席上要有茶食嗎
15 茶與人、地、物關係
16 茶與人、地、物感應
17 茶湯是茶葉新生命
18 茶道老師必須親自泡茶奉茶喝茶
19 喝茶為何要會泡茶
20 要喝「好茶」
21 泡茶者資格檢驗表
22 我的珍茶一定要找他泡
23 等就等吧
24 茶會自備品杯使用說明
25 奉茶的原則
26 茶道藝術與茶道科學
27 自在品味
28 茶食與品茗間的爭議
29 花、茶、具與茶道的距離
30 隨性不同於自在

第二篇 茶文化復興
1 泡茶者該有什麼表情
2 辦中學生茶藝生活營聚焦在哪裡
3 馬來西亞茶道在哪裡
4 現在時空的茶文化要穿什麼服飾來泡茶
5 茶文化復興初期十年的茶館
6 錯過茶文化復興的茶館
7 馬國茶文化復興的快速發展
8 馬來西亞茶文化的誕生
9 盡是吃東西的茶館
10 杭州茶館見聞記與觀後感
11 他們為什麼要學茶
12 為馬來西亞的茶文化復興記下一筆
13 穿自己的茶衣
14 是壞習慣不是傳統茶文化
15 如何讓陌生人進入喝茶領域
16 您不知道他們是怎麼看待茶的
17 茶道藝術展演應如何安排
18 別低估了茶友的能力
19 我對自己負責
20 「創新」不一定是好的「創作」

第三篇 泡茶
1 泡茶新舊觀念
2 茶葉不骯髒
3 第一泡就把茶泡好
4 溫潤泡也不在普洱茶運用
5 茶葉不能捏碎沖泡
6 泡茶的繁與簡、難與易
7 老茶不必溫潤泡
8 如何看待老六堡的陳放味
9 初學者如何學泡茶
10 浸久一點與浸快一些
11 撿起打翻了的茶
12 沖泡茶之碎片
13 不舒服時要「喝對」茶
14 不同人泡的茶有不同效果
15 風格各異還是風格有誤
16 茶杯衛生的處理
17 泡茶者的投入與感染
18 泡茶者調整茶味後再奉茶之談
19 這麼多人的泡茶練習怎麼辦
20 你泡茶我學功夫
21 怎樣叫做把茶「泡好」了

第四篇 品茶
1 品味茶的相、色香味與渣
2 團揉茶的風格與享用
3 新舊佛手茶的欣賞
4 思念老焙火烏龍茶
5 傳統型、熟香型及清香型鐵觀音之?
6 茶的好壞我知道
7 將龍井放成老茶
8 新老茶的欣賞
9 為什麼要開一堂課叫〈品老茶研習班〉

第五篇 器物
1 泡茶可使用不同茶器
2 選泡茶器的真義
3 紫砂壺牽強附會的說法
4 這樣那樣的壺泡茶特別好喝嗎
5 茶具與泡茶品茗的關係
6 杯子質地與品茗關係之測試報告

第六篇 茶會
1 茶道表演的現代精神
2 龍井品茗會
3 無我茶會之抽籤談
4 「品茗茶會」商品化的過程
5 無我茶會之茶席、泡茶談
6 普洱六堡水仙茶會記
7 招待老師喝茶的錯誤實例

第七篇 推廣
1 時髦觀音茶的弊病
2 茶商品是茶文化與茶的結合
3 茶企業設宴不喝茶
4 餐廳供應茶水的新方向
5 茶的香味怎麼說
6 茶葉產品說明的編寫
7 茶葉產品說明的培訓手?
8 製茶、賣茶也要會泡茶喝茶
9 賣茶從業員需要具備資格嗎
10 檳城茶會記
11 是茶會活動還是品茗商品
12 買茶來喝與買茶投資
13 發展茶文化沒茶泡

第八篇 品茗館
1 泡茶師在職場的地位
2 泡茶藝術家
3 泡茶師掌席時的工作
4 茶譜的規劃
5 泡茶師的道場
6 為新年茶會規劃的茶譜
7 為敏感體質茶友規劃的茶譜
8 給孤獨長者的茶譜規劃
9 誰上品茗館喝茶
10 品茗館營運法則
11 老茶品茗館開張
12 「老茶品茗館」泡茶席設置
13 現在開設品茗館的時代性意義
14 三十年從茶藝館到了品茗館
15 我們急切需要的品茗館

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现代茶思想茶铎八音许玉莲

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品茗馆之武夷茶.龙凤团茶-许玉莲

品茗馆之武夷茶.龙凤团茶. 2006年制

许玉莲.文/摄影

现代茶思想武夷茶.龙凤团茶

饼头(成品一百克重)从当初青饼的浅青黄色转变成黄褐色,边缘且带点微红,显润泽感。饼茶边缘因经过七年的存放,接触空气,已开始松开,呈现一层层梳理整齐的茶叶、条理分明,手法干净利落,饼面与饼底压制得细致。

现代茶思想武夷茶.龙凤团茶

从饼边缘的缝隙嗅闻,有亁木的清香,那是大太阳晒过的“晴味”。茶干被热水浇淋,这股“晴味”也随着水气传出。

现代茶思想武夷茶.龙凤团茶

茶汤黄澄澄,水感柔,入口带有橘子皮“辛”的气息。

品茗时滋味浓强,但显然已步出新茶时类似青叶子的草腥味,转变收敛成一股成熟的梅子香味。

苦了过后整个舌底生出韵味,喉底带有一种非甜美型的山野果子的甜,有一缕清新、鲜爽之口感。

现代茶思想武夷茶.龙凤团茶

赏茶渣看出大多属于嫩芽嫩叶,二、三片较成熟的吧,有些叶子锯齿边上微红,带梗。它们每一片都千娇百媚,似一个个生命在呼唤着、呼吸着,在跳舞,还充满着温暖的香气呢。

现代茶思想武夷茶.龙凤团茶e

此茶是为“乔家重辟武夷茶路150周年纪念”而做的“龙凤团茶”,想必期望可捕抓一些那个年代的风貌与韵味。然而品茗时不宜仰赖“茶叶的故事”,有故事听就觉得好,无故事就兴趣缺缺,我们品茗时应以茶品茶。

现代茶思想武夷茶.龙凤团茶g

此茶要如何归类?压成饼状的茶就是普洱吗?不,此茶不属普洱青饼范畴,普洱青饼先炒青、后揉捻、再将之摊放太阳底下晒青,最终压制,普洱青饼冲泡时多带一股“晒青烟味”,它并无这种特征。

宋.龙凤团茶蒸青压榨,去汁制饼,此茶亦无蒸青迹象,不属于此范畴,它采武夷茶原料做成武夷茶,最后压制,估计它属于炒青制作,因它隐约散发武夷岩茶的香韵,应可归类武夷茶。

现代茶思想武夷茶.龙凤团茶f

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