Tag Archives: thatched-hut tea ceremony setting

《茶道入门—识茶篇》-第九章 浴火重生,谈茶的生命-蔡荣章

《茶道入门—识茶篇》

蔡荣章

(2008.11 中华书局 ISBN 978-7-101-06320-2)

第九章 浴火重生,谈茶的生命

一、从泡茶、品饮看茶之美
茶芽、嫩叶长在茶树上的那副娇嫩翠绿的样子就叫人喜爱,将它采下来,捧在手心上,或摊在竹盘上,也叫人爱不释手。茶树是常绿,而且深根的作物,只要开垦时注意到水土保持,它本身是很好的环境保护作物。又由于呼吸的旺盛,可以为我们消化较多的二氧化碳,增加较多的氧气,还是很好的庭园作物。

茶芽、嫩叶,茶树最珍贵的新生命,必须先行自我牺牲,让人们将它从茶树上采摘下来,然后才有办法消失部分水分,引起或多或少的发酵。茶芽、嫩叶的第二次生命开始诞生,掬取了阳光、空气、压力与热能,高雅的香气、可口的滋味、美丽的颜色于是产生。当它的第二次生命达到最高峰的时候,茶芽、嫩叶又「潜沉」了,让人们搓揉、干燥成皱成一团的「茶干」。潜沉期间,茶芽与嫩叶仍继续修炼自己,让自己更加成熟而止于至善。直到有一天,人们将之置入容器中,用滚沸或是冰冷的水浸泡,它才慢慢从「闭关」中苏醒。茶芽与嫩叶释出了前世今身所修得的正果,将最好的香气、滋味、颜色都奉献给了爱它的人。当毫无保留地释放完毕、奉献完成,茶芽与嫩叶再也不避讳地摊开自己的身躯,任由爱它的人审视、批判、赞叹,或是拋弃。

茶叶在「潜沉」期间不但继续修炼自己,还将自己修得香气与养分保存得非常完美,例如维他命c,在其它食物身上是很容易丧失的(可达80﹪),但是在「茶干」的身上,经年消失无几(最多20﹪)。例如茶多酚,茶干也固守着它直到再次的献身,期间即使经过渥堆等后发酵的灾难,茶多酚也只是改变性态,保卫人体健康的功能并未消失,甚至于产生更进一步的效益(如减肥)。如果以它来保存花的香气,将是世界一流的守护官。君不见茉莉花茶、玫瑰银针、桂花乌龙,它们将茉莉花的香、玫瑰花的香、桂花的香保留得多么完整,而且一点也不失真(除非茶芽、嫩叶本身遭受了破坏)。人们到了冰天雪地的冬天,可以躲在房间内一边喝茶,一边回味花开时节的景致;人们离乡背井想念故园之时,可以藉着一杯茶追忆当年花团锦簇的日子。

二、〝茶〞的生命礼赞
很多诗人会以文字来歌颂茶的生命,我们以张错(1943~ ,教授)的作品为途径,一方面欣赏诗的美,一方面体会张教授对茶生命的礼赞。在此也向张教授致谢、致敬。

如果我是开水
你是茶叶
那么你底香郁
必须倚赖我底无味

让你底干枯柔柔的
在我里面展开,舒散
让我底浸润
舒展你的容颜

我必须热,甚至沸
彼此才能相溶

我们必须隐藏
在水里相觑,相缠
一盏茶工夫
我俩才决定成一种颜色

无论你怎样沉浮
把持不定
你终将缓缓的
(噢,轻轻的)
落下,攒聚
在我最深处

那时候
你最苦底一滴泪
将是我最甘美的
一口茶

(2046)

Beauty in Emptiness and Solitude-Rong-tsang Tsai

茶道空寂之美Beauty in Emptiness and Solitude

蔡荣章Rong-tsang Tsai

 

(2007.08《茶艺》月刊社论Published in “Tea Art”monthly magazine)

Beauty in art has many and varied manifestations. It brings delight, excites our senses, causes solemn grief, induces sorrow, triggers a train of philosophical thoughts, and calms our anxiety (not without a hint of melancholy). What we are going to talk about is this kind of calmness accompanied by melancholy, known as beauty in emptiness and solitude1. This is unique to the Way of Tea2 in the realm of art.

Where does this feeling of emptiness and solitude originate from?  To answer this, we will have to go back to the basics, namely, the compounds of tea.  Caffeine and catechins are mainly responsible for the bitterness3 and astringency4 that have come to characterize tea. The absence of these two properties would result in flatness, yielding a forgettable drink that is a far cry from the exceptional beverage which has captured the palettes of the world since time immemorial.  The right mix of bitterness, astringency and aroma is the signature of premium tea. The ability in camouflaging the sharp bitterness and astringency while retaining tea’s natural allure is the key to the beverage of a lifetime.

Such teas calm our nerves and soothe our souls.  With each sip, our blood pressure lowers slightly, our muscle relaxes, our attention focuses better, and our emotions settle down. This state of tranquility is physically ideal for the manifestation of beauty in emptiness and solitude. For those who have some idea about this state, and the practice of self-cultivation, such melancholy-infused beauty readily enters our consciousness.  This could be the reason why throughout history, tea aficionados, especially literati and artists, have left behind a vast volume of work on beauty in emptiness and solitude as induced by tea drinking.  As such, this particular state has become an integral part of the tea culture.  This is further reflected in the environment in which tea is enjoyed, as illustrated by the term ‘thatched-hut tea ceremony setting’5. And, incorporating the essence of Zen practices, the idea of so-called ‘oneness of Zen and Tea’6 emerges.

The tie between Tea and Zen is strong.  The fact that both value emptiness and solitude is, to us, a key contributing factor.   This particular state of being is no stranger to the students of Zen; it is a state they have to embrace and enter into.  Meanwhile, it is also the path through which the beauty of tea can be experienced and appreciated. To this end, we consider the idea of conviction and simplicity described by Lu Yu in The Classics of Tea7a means to experience the state of emptiness and solitude.   In Japan, the spirit of emptiness and solitude advocated by Zen masters and Lu Yu’s proposition of conviction and simplicity8 was captured by great tea gurusMurata Shuko, Takeno Joo and Sen no Rikyu, among others in the practice of the Way of Tea. What we are doing is to expound on the idea of emptiness and solitude in art, tea and Zen practices, from the aesthetics’ point of view.

—–

以下为文内之编码 Coding in the text:

空寂之美1 beauty in emptiness and solitude1

茶道 the Way of Tea2

3 bitterness3

4 astringency4

草庵茶席‘thatched-hut tea ceremony setting’5

茶禅一味‘oneness of Zen and Tea’6

《茶经》7 Classics of Tea7

精俭 conviction and simplicity8

大茶人9 great tea gurus9

Introduction

The aesthetics, character and the state of mind created are not to be undermined in the understanding and enjoyment of tea; and yet, they are the hardest to express.  Writings on thoughts pertaining to tea, regardless of the languages used, remain scarce.   We have attempted to express them in Chinese, with accompanying English translation(Translator:Katherine Yip.2010.01), to elaborate our thoughts as they are. What we want is to share with fellow tea drinkers something more than just the drinking of it. This is, in our opinion, an important contemporary task in promoting the tea culture (Coding in the text is for cross-referencing of academic tea terms).

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