Tag Archives: oneness of Zen and Tea

那杯茶很享受-许玉莲

那杯茶很享受

许玉莲

20091220刊于马来西亚《光明日报》吃东西周刊茶潮

茶艺生活营又起动了,今年我们圈定八十位从十四岁至十八岁年轻孩子为对象,与我们一起大闹茶堂,还特别将过去两届的营员邀返回营成立学长团,总共有十二位吧,协助新生就位以及活动其间一些泡茶表演,于是学长团时不时会在茶艺课室分组排练泡茶。

他们有唐代煮茶表演,宋代点茶表演,标准现代泡茶法示范等,少年们初初有些生涩,尤其是家里没有帮忙做家务的。我们发觉,会抽时间陪妈妈去采购食材,有陪家人在家里煮一道菜的习惯的人,往往比较敏感,容易触动嗅觉,味觉等感官的情感,料理起泡茶事的双手也比较温柔。

问一位参与唐代煮茶表演的少年会闷吗?觉得老土吗?他说古代的茶一定很好喝很享受,泡一碗茶要这么多茶僮,这么多器具,还要很多时间。再问会觉得泡茶程序太多太麻烦吗?他说少了就不好喝呀。

这么多茶僮,并非为了排场,为了需要掌控时间,煮茶时的材料我们都希望现磨现碾现烤现煮,以保持茶质的鲜美饱满,避免串杂味或失真味,那是分工,配合时间的天衣无缝安排。多,是为了取得“少”,即我们希望能得到一种茶的纯粹味。

用现世代的理解,或是:让客人感觉到看到这杯茶,是专门为他而做的,有够专业及罕贵,那这杯茶的价值就可在它的价格后面加上一个零或两个零来显示。

这么多器具,并非为了炫耀,也并非为了要做直销生意,为了要“把一样事情做好”。唐朝陆羽煮茶,总共需要二十四茶器,三配件,功能包括煮茶,加炭,备茶,备水,饮茶,清洁,陈列,收藏,炙茶,碾茶等,是方是圆该长该短,一分不可多,亦一分不可少。何种质材何样颜色,何时用如何用,统统都为了能取得一杯好茶而存在。

我记得从小我们家就有一把棍不像棍,刀不像刀的木状物在厨房靠墙站着,总有一尺来长,一头圆扁形,当手把,另一头削平状,它是我姐夫用来善待榴槤的好朋友,榴槤大餐时,他只须一手持着榴槤头,另一手持着这把“榴槤翘”(我们家里的广东话谐音,我不懂它中文叫什么。曾经我以为人人家里都会有这样一把怪东西的,后来到处吃榴槤,看到人们开榴槤开到如此难看,我就劝请榴槤翘出场助阵,人家都听得一头雾水,我这才发觉好像只有我一个人在念着这把怪物,开始怀疑那是我姐夫的杰作)轻轻顺着榴槤底部条纹一翻,黄澄澄的宝贝就会跳出来。

吃榴槤,不止是要吃它,还需顾及开榴槤时工具的适合度,随便砍了就来吃,那是吃,那不是生活。我们的学长茶僮不说:很享受那杯茶。他说:那杯茶很享受。我认为意义不一样,前者是感官的,他懂得辨香识味了,那实在不容易。后者却是透过感官感应到好,感应到美,感应到悠闲和快乐,这才难。

 

  (1756)

炭炉-许玉莲

炭炉

许玉莲

20081214刊于马来西亚《光明日报》吃东西周刊茶潮

用酒精炉煮水泡茶,万一盛装酒精的玻璃瓶(酒精灯)经不起火热而破裂,酒精顷刻便会流淌成河,该怎办?很多年前我和女子一曾身历其境,刚好旁边坐着个三岁小孩陪我们喝茶,我一时大发慈悲,不管天塌下来,挽起小孩就退避三尺之外。

只听有人喊:吹,吹灭那火。乖乖不得了,一吹之下,火蔓延得更快。还是女子一冰雪聪明,拿起手边湿的茶巾往火种罩过去,世界马上归于黑暗及平静。

后来终于一劳永逸买了个铜制酒精灯,大出血九十九零吉,坚固得什么似的,经得起热度与时间的考验,至今安然无恙。非常漂亮的原料和工艺,九十九零吉太值得,我时常劝人用它。

谁料制造商在没有宣告下停产,却以模仿铜的质感、色泽与造型的情形下,用陶土作出了个代替品(我认为),售价六十八零吉,手工实在差太多,触摸的手感—简直是没有手感。多心的我,难免猜测之前的铜制酒精灯是个错误的市场规划?没钱赚马上收手?

有人还是坚持慢火出细活,拒酒精炉与电炉于千里之外,弄个炭炉放在家里,要喝茶时就起火煮水。使用炭炉的关键,是在于选择用什么炭。超级市场或巴刹,一般轻而易举可买到俗称为咸水炭的炭种,但此炭烧起火来比较散,火力不够集中,也不耐烧。

如果有相熟的炭商,试试问他要白炭。每烧一窑咸水炭,总会出现几块烧得特别好的,它们就自动晋级为白炭。白炭里头又还分为普通的和极好出口的,要取得几块出口的难如登天,他们往往比你还烦恼,声声曰:不是钱的问题,是没货。由于并无为钱而折腰,他们的神情与身份马上矜贵起来。

吉兰丹一带生产相当多好炭,都销至日本,韩国及美国等地,本地人想一亲芳泽不能只靠钱去买,还需要有人去做说客,这是难上加难了。但好炭烧火,火种比较集中有力,火力也分布得很均匀,所以千方百计去求的也大有人在。

好炭烧起来并没有火舌在空中扬威耀武,它是一团红红旺盛的火心在炭里的,故烧出来的水能持续地热,不易降温,水的口感有活力,够松够滑,用以泡茶,茶汤效果非常细腻美妙,无以名之。

我有两座炭炉,一座在身边,一座在香港。某年去汕头,看见当地人用,土土的,不经修饰的,非常喜欢,托人给我买,竟一时三刻买不到。后来在广州遇见一位潮州来的茶师,他知道了马上要叫人给我寄。我当时寄居香港,两座炭炉一为一尺高,一为二尺高,就在香港陪伴我。

后来返马行李过重,我将二尺高的那座炭炉不经意地留在香港,一位茶师的家代为保管。至今它有家归不得,不知它感怀身世时有没有哭泣?我这两座炭炉,可是必须用橄榄炭生火的,那是另一个故事了。

 

  (1867)

Beauty in Emptiness and Solitude-Rong-tsang Tsai

茶道空寂之美Beauty in Emptiness and Solitude

蔡荣章Rong-tsang Tsai

 

(2007.08《茶艺》月刊社论Published in “Tea Art”monthly magazine)

Beauty in art has many and varied manifestations. It brings delight, excites our senses, causes solemn grief, induces sorrow, triggers a train of philosophical thoughts, and calms our anxiety (not without a hint of melancholy). What we are going to talk about is this kind of calmness accompanied by melancholy, known as beauty in emptiness and solitude1. This is unique to the Way of Tea2 in the realm of art.

Where does this feeling of emptiness and solitude originate from?  To answer this, we will have to go back to the basics, namely, the compounds of tea.  Caffeine and catechins are mainly responsible for the bitterness3 and astringency4 that have come to characterize tea. The absence of these two properties would result in flatness, yielding a forgettable drink that is a far cry from the exceptional beverage which has captured the palettes of the world since time immemorial.  The right mix of bitterness, astringency and aroma is the signature of premium tea. The ability in camouflaging the sharp bitterness and astringency while retaining tea’s natural allure is the key to the beverage of a lifetime.

Such teas calm our nerves and soothe our souls.  With each sip, our blood pressure lowers slightly, our muscle relaxes, our attention focuses better, and our emotions settle down. This state of tranquility is physically ideal for the manifestation of beauty in emptiness and solitude. For those who have some idea about this state, and the practice of self-cultivation, such melancholy-infused beauty readily enters our consciousness.  This could be the reason why throughout history, tea aficionados, especially literati and artists, have left behind a vast volume of work on beauty in emptiness and solitude as induced by tea drinking.  As such, this particular state has become an integral part of the tea culture.  This is further reflected in the environment in which tea is enjoyed, as illustrated by the term ‘thatched-hut tea ceremony setting’5. And, incorporating the essence of Zen practices, the idea of so-called ‘oneness of Zen and Tea’6 emerges.

The tie between Tea and Zen is strong.  The fact that both value emptiness and solitude is, to us, a key contributing factor.   This particular state of being is no stranger to the students of Zen; it is a state they have to embrace and enter into.  Meanwhile, it is also the path through which the beauty of tea can be experienced and appreciated. To this end, we consider the idea of conviction and simplicity described by Lu Yu in The Classics of Tea7a means to experience the state of emptiness and solitude.   In Japan, the spirit of emptiness and solitude advocated by Zen masters and Lu Yu’s proposition of conviction and simplicity8 was captured by great tea gurusMurata Shuko, Takeno Joo and Sen no Rikyu, among others in the practice of the Way of Tea. What we are doing is to expound on the idea of emptiness and solitude in art, tea and Zen practices, from the aesthetics’ point of view.

—–

以下为文内之编码 Coding in the text:

空寂之美1 beauty in emptiness and solitude1

茶道 the Way of Tea2

3 bitterness3

4 astringency4

草庵茶席‘thatched-hut tea ceremony setting’5

茶禅一味‘oneness of Zen and Tea’6

《茶经》7 Classics of Tea7

精俭 conviction and simplicity8

大茶人9 great tea gurus9

Introduction

The aesthetics, character and the state of mind created are not to be undermined in the understanding and enjoyment of tea; and yet, they are the hardest to express.  Writings on thoughts pertaining to tea, regardless of the languages used, remain scarce.   We have attempted to express them in Chinese, with accompanying English translation(Translator:Katherine Yip.2010.01), to elaborate our thoughts as they are. What we want is to share with fellow tea drinkers something more than just the drinking of it. This is, in our opinion, an important contemporary task in promoting the tea culture (Coding in the text is for cross-referencing of academic tea terms).

  (2098)