Tag Archives: tea drinker

要喝“好茶”-20120220周一喝茶慢-许玉莲

要喝“好茶”

许玉莲

20120220周一喝茶慢

看到题目,一些人直接的反应就马上质疑:“为什么只叫人喝贵茶?”,人们以为要喝“好茶”就是要花费更多钱买“贵茶”才能解决问题,我们要说,“好茶”并不等于“贵茶”,陆羽《茶经》说茶“不按照适当的季节采摘,制造的时候不用心,掺杂其他的杂草,喝了会生病”,这就是好茶要避免的情况。什么叫好茶,什么叫劣茶,不是绝对与价格有关,以同一类茶来说,假设采摘的都是比较老的叶子,一般做出来的产品等级与价格都会相对低,但若果它是一个属于用心做而且做工好的茶,便是茶汤泡起来不够浓稠而已,喝起来是不会难受的,这时这个茶就是“便宜茶”里面的“好茶”。另一种,比如原料采得非常嫩来做的龙井,以及原料成熟度采得非常标准来做的铁观音,都可以成为品质很高的茶,但是假如不好好做,或生长地点和环境欠缺理想,这个茶可能卖相还是很好,卖得很贵,不过喝起来很难受,那么它就是“贵茶”中的“坏茶”。再一种,用同样高价格买到的两个“贵茶”,不一定就是同等级的“好茶”,比如以1000元可买到顶级好的红碎茶,以1000元买金骏眉可能就不如红碎茶的等级。

也有人根据个别喜爱说“武夷岩茶最好”,“普洱茶最好”,但好茶并不是指茶的种类,而是指每一种茶的好,比如两个同样的武夷山正岩茶,外观都很好,但其中一个没有好好地实施日光萎凋与室内萎凋,比如萎凋时水分消失得太慢,造成积水,成茶苦涩,这样的茶即使在市场上与另一个制工好的同价,也被视为劣茶。不管什么种类茶,要做到技术到位才叫好,要做完精制的稳质过程才叫做好。武夷岩茶也好,普洱茶也一样,无论采摘原料、做茶工艺或制茶环境等的品质问题,都会造成茶叶良莠不齐的后果。假使普洱茶后发酵的渥堆技术不到位,效果差,出来的茶汤滋味不够纯正,便不可以视之为好茶。

为什么我们要喝“好茶”,因为“坏茶”喝进身体会叫人感觉不舒服诸如头晕、头疼、反胃、寒凉、晚上睡不着,陆羽《茶经》说:“茶的品质不好,对人体的害处,就如人参一样。知道品质不好的人参耽误病情的坏处,那么一样的道理,劣茶的坏处也就清楚了”。故此,喝“好茶”是爱茶人的责任,那是对自己身体负责,喝茶爱茶并不是好坏不拘,是种类不拘,就比如食物,不养成偏食习惯,什么都要吃一点,但是坏食物不要吃。制茶人的责任就是要做“好茶”,不可以做“坏茶”,要把茶做到位,而不是把茶做得漂漂亮亮就可以。

 

 

 

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On the Style of Tea Presentation Setting-Rong-tsang Tsai

茶席1风格的表现 On the Style of Tea Presentation Setting 1

蔡荣章-Rong-tsang Tsai

(2001.01《茶艺》月刊社论Published in “Tea Art”monthly magazine)

Is Chinese costume and Chinese music indispensable in a tea brewing demonstration? Is Chinese interior décor the norm for dressing up tea houses? These are some of the most frequently asked questions during our lectures on the Way of Tea. If modern tea culture is what we are promoting, then there is no standardization pertaining to the modern Chinese style. It is, instead, our wish to introduce the Way of Tea to the world. For this matter, geographic and ethnic flavours are not prerequisites. As such, we accept a modern approach to promoting the Way of Tea.

A fellow tea drinker 2 once raised the issue about tea presentation setting when we were planning a tea art exhibition: Are we to follow traditional Chinese style? Or do we have the freedom to use a modern way of presenting? What he meant by ‘traditional Chinese style’ would probably include typical Chinese interior décor and furniture, together with flower arrangement 3, burning of incense 4 and hanging scrolls 5, among others. Our answer to this is, it is not necessary. There is nothing to stop us from using a modern, even surreal, approach. The combination of the four arts of living7– namely flower arrangement, painting hanging, incense burning and tea brewing6 – are not something down in the rule book. Chinese costume, be it for the tea servers or team members of the organizer, is not compulsory. The most important point is, the tea presentation setting must have a self-fulfilled style, and attain a high level of artistic accomplishment. Of course, one has to fully understand the characteristics of the tea leaves to be presented. Tea is the protagonist in this and it will not be right if we just show off our skill in dressing up the space without paying attention to the tea. For that matter, costume and demeanor will have to be in harmony with the presentation.

There is no fixed rule about pairing –Chinese décor does not necessary call for Chinese paintings and calligraphy, or Chinese-style flower arrangement. The aim is to successfully create the style and reach the artistic level desired. Mixing and matching of styles that transcends temporal boundaries and geographic divides is acceptable, so long as it is done is an appropriate manner. However, from the artistic, cultural and historical points of view, we would like more than a combination of existing (including old and new) objects and style, and encourage brand new design and creation. Although the setting is supposed to be a unique combination, which in itself is a form of creation, it does not ‘add to our historical and cultural values’ the way a new design does.

By the same token, there is no restriction as to the method of brewing. As in a drama production, the perfect match of the stage setting, cast and script is the formula to success. Brewing a good pot 8 is the basic principle – we cannot simply put ambience on top of everything else, or leave everything to whims and fancies. As far as the space is concerned, the design must have a theme to hold everything together. What tea aficionados 9 are after is something beautiful and artistically-appreciated.

以下为文內之编码Coding in the text:

茶席1  Tea Presentation Setting 1

茶友2 tea drinker 2

插花3 flower arrangement 3

焚香4 burning of incense 4

挂画5 hanging scrolls 5

点茶6 tea brewing6

四艺7 four arts of living7

「把茶泡好」8 Brewing a good pot 8

茶者9 tea aficionados 9

Introduction:

The aesthetics, character and the state of mind created are not to be undermined in the understanding and enjoyment of tea; and yet, they are the hardest to express.  Writings on the thoughts pertaining to tea, regardless of languages used, remain scarce.   We have attempted to express them in Chinese, with accompanying English translation(Translator:Katherine Yip.2010.01), to elaborate our thoughts as they are. What we want is to share the knowledge of tea alongside tea drinking.  This is, in our opinion, an important contemporary task in promoting the tea culture (Coding in the text is for cross-referencing of the academic terms of tea).

 

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