Tag Archives: the Way of Tea

论茶道精神-許玉蓮

论茶道精神

許玉蓮

什么是茶道精神?茶人泡茶时有一定原则与要求,他们又自然地把这套方法用在生活:保持干净怎么做、珍惜一支壶怎么做………….,一一延伸至衣、食、住、行,逐渐形成一种不可取代的生活态度。当很多人同时坚持要这样子过活,要这样子泡茶,社会就出现一股气质,此种气质的养成,来自这群茶人认为茶要如何表现,我们姑且称这种气质为茶道精神。

茶道精神可凭空编造吗?不可能的,茶叶有四个阶段的生命:鲜叶、茶叶、茶汤和茶渣,茶人在考察茶来源、寻找好茶叶、如何把茶泡好、如何品享茶汤及在好好观赏茶渣过程,对茶、对涉及之人士所做一切带出的做法,一定得亲身经验才有办法构造茶道精神,否则是纸上谈兵。

请来满腹经纶的专家将他们认为最好的世俗价值嫁接在茶道,是做学问发表演说。如期许社会人士要融洽相处、待人接物要有礼貌,这是很好的愿景,不过我们不会因为抱负着这种期许,就说我们的茶道精神是「爱」。期许、实践之间有微妙不同,任何一种赋予精神的茶道理念,都须经茶人具体将细节做出来才存在。比如「爱」的精神,是包括茶人选择茶叶时确定它的制作手段没有违反自然,这样的茶叶即使不强调它保健成分,喝了也会身心健康,喝了才产生「爱」的感动,「爱」也包括对叶子的友善。如泡茶时才强调表现茶道精神,无泡茶时就满不在乎,那是不足够为「精神」做见证。

将历史例子印证出来可以了吧?那是灌输大众应知道的常识而已。过去茶人的情操我们要借鉴,但难道说曾有过的,我们现今就会自动获得遗传,说我们也有了吗;况且他们曾做过的、无论有多美好的观念,也需考虑当代文明、价值观与以往时代不同了,实施起来行得通否。拥有不同认知与情绪的人,不了解茶、不爱茶,缺少一天一天锲而不舍的练习,即使很会说茶道精神的道理,也是虚有其表。

茶道精神,它无论泡茶时或非泡茶时都要凸显吗?刚开始会觉得茶席上有这个需要,慢慢发觉生活上不这样做会觉得不满足。我体悟茶道精神,但我还没有完全符合这个茶道精神的境界,怎么办?精神面貌的样子,岂能说有即有,必得经过漫长岁月实践,熟练到连自己都忘记了,人们也看不出你在做了,只觉得你本来就是长得如此气质,那或许才是最佳注脚。

是否泡茶经验越久、可以把茶泡好就会产生出茶道精神呢?不一定,泡茶钟点数与泡茶技法固然重要,信念坚定却是需从心做起。茶道精神等于做人的道德守则吗?茶道精神指发生在泡茶的时候所产生的信念,道德守则指的是生活中既有的做人道理。任何人都可以将任何茶道精神学会吗?茶道精神不是「学习」是「献祭」,是先有某种精神特质倾向的人,他们泡茶喝茶达至一种深度,慢慢一点一滴累积,最后才出现此种特质的茶道精神。为了他们所信仰的茶道精神,他们会用自己的生命去做。

(完稿20141013.  发表于中国《海峡茶道》杂志每月专栏) (2007)

The artistic manifestation of the Way of Tea as expressed by Sans Self Tea Gathering -蔡荣章 Rong-tsang Tsai

無我茶會表現的茶道藝術

The artistic manifestation of the Way of Tea as expressed by Sans Self Tea Gathering

 蔡荣章 Rong-tsang Tsai

 Student: ‘As far as the Way of Tea is concerned, what is the difference between Sans Self Tea Gathering and other ways of making tea?’

‘Sans Self Tea Gathering is a form of tea gathering. It differs from the ten brewing methods we talk about from time to time; those are ways in which we make tea. Besides Sans Self Tea Gathering, there are also tea gatherings in the form of tea presentation setting, banquet or free-flow. Meanwhile, as you all know, brewing methods may involve small teapots, big containers or extended steeping of tealeaves, to name a few.’

‘In the artistic manifestation of the Way of Tea, the method of brewing is an application. How about the different kinds of tea gathering? ’

‘They are both applications in the artistic manifestation of the Way of Tea. Tea gathering is the style, brewing method is the means.’

‘Is the format of tea gathering and tea presentation setting the same as the “environment for tea drinking”?’

‘These are different concepts. The artistic manifestation of the Way of Tea should not be too dependent on, or too mindful of, the environment for tea drinking; otherwise, we will forget that we are brewing tea. The format of tea gathering, however, has an immediate impact on the art itself – the way tea ware affects the tea infusion and the brewing method the enjoyment of tea. The format of tea gathering should not be viewed as an environment for tea drinking; but rather, a part of the artistic manifestation of the Way of Tea.

‘Where lies the beauty of Sans Self Tea Gathering, apart from its role in the artistic manifestation of the Way of Tea?’

‘Although there is no event director on site, a Sans Self Tea Gathering takes place like clockwork. Each participant brews tea, then rise to serve tea to fellow participants on their left or right. After taking the first brew, each prepares another brew and serve, until the agreed number of brewing has been attained. After staying at their places for a short music appreciation, the participants go forth to collect their cups and pack. That’s when the tea gathering comes to an end. Throughout the tea gathering, no one speaks or directs the event flow; everyone follows the pre-agreed procedure and method. Such is the collective rhythm of Sans Self Tea Gathering – when all the participants put their heart and soul into brewing, serving and enjoying tea, a kind of beauty unique to the Way of Tea prevails.’

 ‘Would it be possible to look upon the entire tea gathering, from tea setting through tea brewing and serving to taking the tea, as a piece of work?’

‘Experiencing, or rather enjoying, the art of the Way of Tea is certainly realized by the entire tea gathering. The only worry is over emphasizing the impact of the event at the expense of the tea infusion; and the worry is real. Because of this, we have proposed the concept of the ‘Quintessential Way of Tea’, which helps us re-focus on the tea infusion. Tea, after all, is at the core of the artistic manifestation of the Way of Tea. This way, it won’t be mistaken as the art of tea drinking environment, the art of tea brewing or the art of moral enlightenment. You may say: Well, ain’t I making tea just the same?  True, but the pre-requisite is the realization that tea, the infusion, is at the heart of the Way of Tea.

(1531)

The true meaning of ‘setting aside personal preferences’-蔡荣章 Rong-tsang Tsai

無好惡之心的真諦

The true meaning of ‘setting aside personal preferences’

蔡荣章 Rong-tsang Tsai

‘Setting aside personal preferences’ is important when it comes to appraising tealeaves – our preference for certain types of tea makes it hard for us to be objective and unbiased when we are assessing the quality of teas. The same can be said of Sans Self Tea Gathering. A participant may be served with four types of tea (if each person is served four cups) because there is no restriction on tealeaves. As such, we have to accept and appreciate the tea offered by others. Keep our mind and heart open, and ‘set aside personal preferences’.

Having said that, ‘setting aside personal preferences’ is different from ‘not being able to tell the good from the bad’. There are two sides to the idea – firstly, it refers to the absence of a very strong feeling towards what one likes and dislikes; secondly, it refers to the ability to rise above personal feelings when we look at, accept and even appreciate matters that are different from what we are accustomed to. In the world of tea, there are different varieties – green tea, pu’er, oolong, black tea, and a lot more. If you insist on drinking oolong and neglect green tea, you are depriving yourself of the beauty of green tea. Meanwhile, tealeaves come in different qualities, from unbelievably good to downright poor. Your may choose to take only tea of premium quality, but what if there is none? You will probably say, “Well, this is not my cup of tea.” Or think, “I would rather pass on it than corrupting my taste”. Some fellow tea drinkers declare, “I take only the first two brews (referring to small pot brewing)” just to tell the others that latter infusions are not good enough for them. This attitude has left much to be desired because it rules out possibilities. By putting themselves on a materialist high ground, they are imposing upon themselves a form of self-imprisonment – it is not uncommon to see some people bolstered by wealth, knowledge or moral authority staying in self-built prisons and act in stereotyped ways.

This will bring us to what Laozi said: Harmonize with all that is bright as daylight, and identify with all that is common as dust. By breaking down the barrier between the self and the world around – light and dust included – we will be able to feel genuinely free in this vast universe.

What we advocate is an open mind and an open heart. Appreciate different types of tea with objectivity. Accept tea of different grades. Take all infusions, first or latter, with pleasure. The study of tea may be about progress –better quality tealeaves, better brew and better tea-drinking environment. And yet, we should not rule out latter infusions of lesser quality tea (as allowed by circumstances) if these are made with one’s best effort. (1658)

無好惡之心的真諦-蔡荣章

無好惡之心的真諦

The true meaning of ‘setting aside personal preferences’

蔡荣章 Rong-tsang Tsai

我們評鑒茶的時候會提到「無好惡之心」,因為對不同茶類的喜愛度有了差異,在評判茶葉品質高下時就不容易做到公平與客觀。我們在無我茶會時,也會討論到無好惡之心,因為參加茶會時的茶葉是自行攜帶,如果每人奉茶四杯,每人可能會喝到四杯不一樣的茶,這時要以超然的心情來接納、欣賞這四杯茶,培養自己「無好惡之心」。

「無好惡之心」與「好壞不分」、「善惡不分」是不一樣的。我們所說的無好惡之心包含兩個層面的意義,一個是對不同事物或個體不要有太強烈的喜歡與不喜歡之心,另一個層面是要以超然的心情來觀看、接納、甚至於欣賞這些不同意義、不同境界的事物。就以茶為例,茶有綠茶、普洱茶、烏龍茶、紅茶諸種類,如果你一直固執於喝烏龍茶而不喝綠茶,那綠茶之美就一直無法進入你的領域。再就品質高下而言,各種茶都有好壞之分,如果你僅固執於喝好茶,那遇到沒好茶時怎麼辦?你可以說「不喝」、「寧缺勿濫」。又常聽到有些茶友說:「我只喝前面二泡。」(當然是指小壺茶而言),表示後面幾泡的品質已不足以令他欣賞。這樣的品茗態度、這樣的處世態度並不是我們贊同的,因為這只有將自己縮小在一個小區塊內,這小區塊是不是就叫做「養尊處優」呢?還不只此,那是一處讓遊客觀光的監獄。有些有錢人家、有學問人家、有道德的人家都是居住在這樣的別墅內的。

談到這裡,不禁讓人想起「和光同塵」的問題了,老子要我們與光綫、塵土為伍,要我們逍遥於大地宇宙之間。

我們主張:各種不同類別的茶都要客觀地欣賞、各種不同等級的茶葉都要接受、後面數泡的茶湯也要以愉悅的心情接納。我們精進於茶學,希望製造出好的茶葉、泡出好的茶湯、釀造出好的品茗環境,但不排斥在精心營造之下,無可避免之次級品、沖泡數道之後的老舊茶湯。(不在精心營造之下的劣质品可以不接受。)

 

  (1781)

Feeling Free and Easy at the Tea Gathering-蔡荣章 Rong-tsang Tsai

逍遙於茶會的廣場

Feeling Free and Easy at the Tea Gathering

蔡荣章 Rong-tsang Tsai

Sans Self Tea Gathering advocates simplicity.  Participants bring along their favourite travel tea ware, sit on the floor in a loop formation, brew tea, offer tea to fellow participants on the left (or right) while reserving a cup for own consumption.  Details are stated in the ‘Notification’ distributed before the event; these include the starting time, the number of cups and brews, ‘after- tea activities’ (e.g. music appreciation or a few minutes of meditation). After brewing, serving and taking tea, participants collect their cups, tidy up and the tea gathering comes to an end.

There is no restriction as to the choice of tea ware, brewing method and tealeaves. Brewing well is the only requirement; it is the means to express the Way of Tea as one sees it. As such, how could we feel free and easy at the tea gathering with such a format?

Here are some tips. Take the seat decided by random drawing without any attachment to outcomes. Brew well, and offer your tea to fellow participants on your left or right, be they someone you want to get acquainted with or not. You will feel relaxed when you offer tea if you know the format of the tea gathering by heart. Don’t be judgemental; a benevolent mind is preferred. Otherwise, you would wonder why you have to offer tea to people whom you don’t know or like.

Better still; imagine yourself taking a helicopter view of the Sans Self Tea Gathering in progress. You will see a large group of people brewing, serving and taking tea in an orderly manner without an event director. Participants on both ends may not even see each other; but this would not stop them from moving in collective rhythm. It is as natural as the way our universe works – just like putting on extra clothing in winter only to take it off when warmer climes return in spring.

In the myth of Peng (giant bird) and Kun (giant fish), Zhuangzi said we should open up our mind. Explore the world high up and deep down, the way Peng and Kun did. He also pointed out that ‘the perfect man cares for no self; the holy man cares for no merit; the sage cares for no name.’ This mindset will make us feel free and easy at the Sans Self Tea Gathering and beyond.

 

  (1406)

San Self Tea Gathering requires full participation of all-蔡荣章-Rong-tsang Tsai

無我茶會是大家一起參與的茶會

San Self Tea Gathering requires full participation of all

蔡荣章-Rong-tsang Tsai

There is a certain format to follow when we organize a San Self Tea Gathering. With simple tea ware for travelling, each participant is to be seated in a loop formation and serve tea in one direction for a pre-agreed number of brews, after which they will pack up. A key feature is participation of all – each participant will have to be fully involved throughout the tea gathering. This is why someone once concluded that a San Self Tea Gathering is an occasion when everyone brew, serve and enjoy tea.

When a fellow tea drinker wanted to organize a San Self Tea Gathering some time ago, he announced, “It is proposed that the occasion accommodates forty participants, among whom twenty will bring along their tea ware for brewing. The rest, who either have difficulty in bring their tea ware, or are not familiar with the procedure of a San Self Tea Gathering, will be treated as onlookers and served by their fellow participants.” We were dumbfounded upon hearing this, as it could not be further from the spirit of a San Self Tea Gathering. Firstly, such arrangement would have undermined the intention to do away with hierarchy – there are bound to be people who find it too troublesome to bring their own tea ware, and ‘privileged’ ones who think that they are to be served rather than to serve. As such, the Organizer need to remind participants individually to ensure there are enough participants bringing the required tea ware. The truth is if such activities are to adopt the name of San Self Tea Gathering, it is necessary for them to adopt the practice as well.

We may chance upon some friends while on the way to a San Self Tea Gathering. It is fine to ask the friends to come along. These non-brewing participants could draw lots for seating, and may be served tea by fellow participants. The only thing is the participants to their left (if this is the direction in which tea is served) would be served one cup less (since these are non-brewing participants). Meanwhile, for venues with a lot of people passing by, there may be ‘onlookers’ who are interested in the tea gathering. The Organizer may arrange for a presenter to explain the nature of the activity to these onlookers, and prepare some disposable cups for serving a couple of brews to them. Do note that this is different in implication from telling participants beforehand that some of them are exempted from bringing along their tea ware.

The organizers must be able to master the nature of the activities they are putting together; this cannot be truer than when we are organizing tea gatherings with clear ideology. A failure in presenting San Self Tea Gathering with integrity would make it very hard for newcomers to feel for it.

 

  (1782)

無我茶會是大家一起參與的茶會-蔡荣章

無我茶會是大家一起參與的茶會

San Self Tea Gathering requires full participation of all

蔡荣章 Rong-tsang Tsai

無我茶會是大家攜帶簡便的旅行用茶具,圍成圈圈泡茶,泡好茶後依同一方向奉茶;大家品飲完約定的泡數,收拾茶具,結束茶會。這其中有一項根本的原則就是「大家攜帶……」,意指「大家共同參與」。所以才有人歸結無我茶會為:人人泡茶、人人奉茶、人人喝茶的茶會。

有次一位茶友主辦無我茶會,對外宣佈:「擬接受四十人報名參加,但其中要有二十個人攜帶茶具泡茶,其餘的人,如果不便帶茶具,或是不懂得如何進行無我茶會,就當作圍觀者,一旁接受別人的奉茶」。當我們聽到這樣的說詞,感到非常驚訝,發現已偏離無我茶會的主軸遠矣。首先,無尊卑之分的觀念即遭受破壞,在這樣的說法之下,有些人會嫌攜帶茶具麻煩,有些人會覺得以自己的地位無須泡茶給別人喝。這時,主辦單位必須逐個叮嚀,才會有預期的人數攜帶茶具。既然以「無我茶會」為活動的名稱,就應該依照無我茶會的規矩進行。

路上碰見朋友,於是一同前往參加無我茶會,無我茶會允許他們一塊兒抽籤,一同接受奉茶,只是他們左邊(若約定向左奉茶)的幾個人少一杯茶喝而已(因為這幾位臨時加入的人沒能泡茶)。至於所謂「圍觀者」是指茶會在眾人出入頻繁的場所進行,難免有群眾駐足圍觀,這時無我茶會可以安排一位對外的解說員,告訴圍觀者這群泡茶的人正在進行一項怎樣的活動,並安排一二道茶,以一次性杯子奉茶給圍觀的人共飲。這與活動籌備之時就言明有些人可以不帶茶具泡茶是不同意義的。

每一項活動的舉辦都必須掌握它的特質,尤其具有強烈思想性的茶會形式。否則無法將其面貌完整呈現,也難於讓初次接觸者產生感動。

 

  (1755)

Why is tea served in one direction at the Sans Self Tea Gathering? -蔡荣章-Rong-tsang Tsai

无我茶会为何非要单边奉茶不可

Why is tea served in one direction at the Sans Self Tea Gathering?

蔡荣章-Rong-tsang Tsai

I am pretty clear of the reasons for most of the practices of Sans Self Tea Gathering. For instance, why a ‘loop’ seating arrangement is preferred; why seating is determined by random drawing; why participants are free to choose their brewing method, tea ware and tealeaves; why all participants have to observe the rule of silence; why there is no master of ceremonies; and why each participant takes tea brewed by the others as well as themselves. And yet, one thing puzzles me. Why do we serve tea in only one direction?

Participants of Sans Self Tea Gathering serve tea in one direction. For example, if a participant is to brew four cups of tea, three of these will be served to the three fellow participants on the left, and the last one reserved for own consumption. If it is agreed that tea is be served to the second, fourth and sixth fellow participants on the right, and the last one reserved for oneself, everyone will follow. Someone once said, “Is it not equally orderly if I serve one cup to the participant on my left, and two cups to the participants on my right, while reserving the last one for myself?” Another person suggested, “Why couldn’t I serve the first brew to the three participants on my immediate left, the second brew to the three participants on my immediate right, and the third brew to the fourth, fifth and sixth participants on my left? This way, I would be able to serve more people.” The fact is, serving tea in one direction would steer us away from any expectation of reciprocity – we serve tea to participants on our left, and are served by participants on our right. For the two suggestions mentioned above, the second idea is somewhat acceptable under this principle, but not the first one.

Principle aside, the emphasis on social interaction is too strong if we are to, as the second suggestion goes, serve tea to our left and right. Anyhow, the persons to be served may not be at their own places. Engrossing in social interaction distracts our attention from tea. At a Sans Self Tea Gathering, we are not encouraged to be too mindful of who the brewers are. When we are to serve certain participants in the designated direction, we will be able to do so for the sole purpose of serving. Meanwhile, taking four brews from the same people would enable us to feel the sincerity and efforts of the brewers. A wider coverage may increase the reach, but it will be hard to get to know the tea and the person in just one cup, as each cup of tea in each round comes from a different person. Furthermore, it is impossible to rinse the cup for different tea every time.

Even when everything goes like clockwork, there could still be such a scenario: a participant may want to offer one or two extra cups of tea to someone he wants to get acquainted or catch up with, having noticed that there is still some tea left. This is, however, too socially-inclined, and may cause misunderstanding among those you have served during the gathering – they may think that you serve them because you have to abide by the rules, but the people over there are the ones you really care!

What Sans Self Tea Gathering advocates is a peaceful, comfortable, and exquisite way of living.  Simple, necessary rules are fine; an excessive emphasis on functionality and requirements may undermine its charm.

  (1572)

无我茶会为何非要单边奉茶不可-蔡荣章

无我茶会为何非要单边奉茶不可

Why is tea served in one direction at the Sans Self Tea Gathering?

蔡荣章-Rong-tsang Tsai

无我茶会围成圈圈泡茶我懂、抽签决定座次我懂、泡茶方式与茶具不拘我懂、茶叶种类不拘我懂、会间不准说话我懂、茶会进行时不设司仪我懂、喝别人的茶也喝自己的茶我懂,唯独单边奉茶我不懂。

无我茶会的奉茶是采单边奉茶的方式,例如约定每人泡茶4杯,奉茶给左邻三位茶友,最后一杯留给自己,大家就都依着这么做,如果约定每人奉茶给右邻2、4、6三位茶友,最后一杯留给自己,大家也都依着这么做。有人说,我奉一杯给左邻,二杯给右邻,一杯给自己,不是也很有规律?也有人建议,为什么不第一道奉给左邻3位,第二道茶奉给右邻3位,第三道茶奉给左邻4、5、6位,这样不是可以奉茶给更多的人喝吗?无我茶会之所以采取单边奉茶的方式,其目的在养成大家〝放淡报偿之心〞,因为我奉茶给左边的茶友,但喝到的茶是来自右边。前面第二个建议还能不违背这项原则,但是第一个建议就不对了。

违背无我茶会基本原则的做法姑且不说,即使第二个建议,第一道奉到东,第二道奉到西,我们也认为太过社交性,况且你奉茶时对方不见得在座位上。太过社交性也降低了对茶的专注,我们还提醒大家不必太关心喝到的是哪位茶友所冲泡的茶呢。如果都是同样的奉给某一方向的某几个人,你可以全然地无所为而为的奉茶,在接受奉茶的一方可以专心品尝每一杯茶的四道茶汤,足可深刻体会对方认真为你冲泡的茶汤作品。如果只是泛泛地奉茶,虽说是与会者间的接触面增加了,但每道都是新的茶,都是不同人泡的茶,小小的一杯茶汤是不足以体认茶、体认人的,而且杯子又没能每次清涮。

另一个现象是:都依规矩做了,但奉完茶后发现还剩有茶汤,于是就跑到他想要特意结交的那个或那几个人那里加奉了一杯或二杯。这也都是属于太过社交性的做法,而且容易引起误会,以为你奉茶给我只是依规定行事,事实上你的朋友在那儿。

无我茶会想要塑造的是安详、自在、且精致的生活,简单且足够的规章就行了,太多的功能性与对它太多的需求反而减弱了它的可爱。

(完稿20120829周三小方块WEDNESDAY TEA CORNER)

 

(1688)

20131225-发展中国家茶文化与茶产业发展官员研修班的一次课-蔡荣章

20131225

发展中国家茶文化与茶产业发展官员研修班的一次课

蔡荣章

这是漳州科技学院举办的第十次发展中国家茶文化与茶产业发展研修班,本期从2013.11.08~3013.12.05,是较短期的一班,有来自埃及、缅甸、尼泊尔、巴基斯坦、肯尼亚、马拉维、埃塞俄比亚、布隆迪、津巴布韦、马里、尼日利亚、玻利维亚、厄瓜多尔等13个国家的21位学员。课程安排了一个下午三节课的“从茶叶茶汤看茶道内涵”。

这次课之前已有各类茶制作与审评、小壶茶法、无我茶会等基础课程,也到湖北省武汉市、宜昌市、神农架等地的茶区、茶企参观过,在这样的基础上是比较容易谈茶叶茶汤欣赏与茶道内涵的。

每两位同学前摆放白纸一张,各放上绿茶、清香型乌龙茶、熟香型乌龙茶、条型红茶、普洱散茶一小撮。请学员观看茶样颜色的变化,理解发酵轻重造成茶叶在颜色上的差异,接着复习过去课堂上体会到的香气从菜香、花香、果香、糖香到木香的变化,以及滋味从“天然”到“人为后”的改变。看完“颜色种类”的改变,再请学员观看“颜色深浅”的变化,藉此讲解焙火对茶叶的影响,让大家回忆焙火岩茶与清香型铁观音在清香与熟香间、在清凉与温暖间的不同。接着又请大家判断茶样芽与叶的多寡,讲起了茶青成熟度对成品茶的影响,让大家清楚芽茶类与叶茶类在品赏上的差异处。由于学员们来自茶叶有关的政府部门或是茶的企业,对茶并不陌生,只是欠缺各大茶类全面性的认识,所以一加整理也就明白了。

休息一下后开始讲解茶叶外形的成因。揉捻的轻重对茶叶外形的改变一说就明白,但揉捻造成茶性的改变就不容易理解了。直到最后将揉捻说成是对茶的一种折磨,折磨得愈重(加压大、时间长),茶的香气与滋味会变得低频,有如大提琴的风格,折磨得愈轻,茶的香气与滋味会变得高频,有如小提琴的风格。这时学员们的脸部肌肉才顿然放松。

比起红茶、绿茶、乌龙茶,他们对普洱茶比较生疏,但是他们在中国的这段时间是看足了普洱茶,对它的好奇心可以想见。花了许多时间在渥堆、入仓、陈放的讲解上,也详细说明了这类后发酵茶的欣赏要领。讲完后引燃了他们的发问,他们说:茶界制造出了这么多种茶类,我们要怎么品饮它们?我说当您喝到绿茶时是不是像看到了一片绿油油的田野;当您喝到铁观音或岩茶时是不是像进入了一片森林,树木都长得顶天立地;当您喝到白毫乌龙或称为东方美人时是不是像走进了玫瑰花园,一片艳丽?当您喝到红茶时是不是像走在秋天的枫树林下,一片枫红?那普洱茶呢,就像修道者进入了深山古刹。大家笑了出来,有人点了点头。

已过了休息时间,趁大家在茶味的兴头上,开始带进茶道艺术的话题。藉着他们对音乐等艺术的了解,说到音乐是藉声音表现艺术的美、绘画是藉线条与色彩表现艺术的境界、舞蹈是藉肢体,那茶道艺术呢,以泡茶、奉茶、品茶为媒体,在泡茶与奉茶间将茶干、茶汤、叶底的美与茶特有情感表现出来。茶不只种类多,每批茶也风格各异,加上泡茶的技法、使用的茶器、以及泡茶者对茶道的诠释,可以呈现出各种美感与思想的内涵,这就是茶道。听到这里,有学员很快地就提出了“禅”与“瑜珈”,我想他们是可以体会到茶道意境的。

有了这样对茶、对各种茶、对泡茶、对茶道、对茶道艺术的认识,学员们回去后比较会常泡茶,而且以艺术的心情泡茶,泡出好的味道泡出茶道的境界,感到喜悦地与朋友共享。我们相信各地方的人都可以欣赏各种茶,不因食物的习惯也不因生长的环境,只要有欣赏各种茶的机会。我们也相信各地方的人都可以理解与享用茶道艺术,只要有认识茶道艺术的教育机会。

  (1836)

不宜用评鉴泡茶法泡茶给初学者识茶-20131204周三小方-蔡荣章

不宜用评鉴泡茶法泡茶给初学者识茶

蔡荣章

20131204周三小方块WEDNESDAY TEA CORNER

「不宜」就是不适宜。「评鉴泡茶法」就是使用评茶鉴定杯组,依评茶法泡出茶汤。「初学者」就是第一次学茶的人。「识茶」就是认识各种茶,是初学者通常上完第一节的制茶课后接下来要上的课程。

第一节的制茶课讲解不发酵茶、部分发酵茶、全发酵茶、后发酵茶、再加工茶等的制造过程,一般都会说到发酵的轻重造成茶叶汤色从绿到红的改变、造成香气从菜香到花香到果香到糖香的变化、造成滋味从接近自然植物到远离自然植物。也会说到揉捻的轻重造成茶汤香与味频率从清扬变低沉,焙火让汤色的明度从高变低、让茶性变得比较温暖。这些制茶的内容到了第二节「识茶」时就要一一验证给同学们体会。

如何让同学们体会呢?从各类茶中挑选如龙井、铁观音(清香型)、大红袍(熟香型)、白毫乌龙、条型红茶、渥堆普洱、茉莉香片七种样品茶,每种茶于课前秤好3g。4~6位同学一桌,每桌备7组鉴定杯组与温度计、计时器各一。老师在黑板上写道:第一组龙井、茉莉香片,80℃/4′(水温/浸泡时间)。第二组白毫乌龙,85℃/5′。第三组条型红茶、渥堆普洱,100℃/4′,大红袍,100℃/5′30″,铁观音,100℃/6′30″(老师尚可依拿到的茶样做调整)。

老师讲解第一组茶前,请同学将水温调到80℃,并将龙井、茉莉香片茶包倒入第一、第二个鉴定杯内观看。告诉同学这就是上堂课所说的不发酵茶与再加工的熏花茶,并指出它们的特征。水温到后请每组第一位同学在第一杯冲水、冲满后计时、盖盖,随即冲第二杯,冲满水时计时器应是跑到10″(不疾不徐地操作应是这个时间),盖上盖子。老师继续讲课,4′到了,同学将第一杯茶倒入茶碗内,计时器跑到4′10″时将第二杯茶倒入茶碗内(不疾不徐地操作也应是这个时间)。如何冲水、如何倒茶事先找时间告诉同学。

二杯茶倒出后,请大家观看茶汤的颜色,印证是否与上堂课所说的一致。接着每桌每人依序拿取冲泡杯,闻杯内茶渣的香气,随闻随盖上盖子。第二种茶也是依同样次序闻香,就是闻第三次香的人,第二杯茶也是闻第三次香。第四次以后闻香的人可在闻香前将茶渣振荡一下使香气发散多一些。每次闻完香要将冲泡杯放回原来的地方,不要直接递给下一位,否则容易弄错位子。这时老师又提示了不发酵茶与熏花茶的香气特征。

闻完香,每人用每种茶的汤匙舀一满匙(约10cc)入自己的小白瓷杯内品饮茶的滋味。如何才能有效地尝到各种茶的内涵物,老师也要找时间先告诉大家。

接下来要认识第二组茶。要求每桌第二位同学将水温调到85℃,然后老师概况讲解,水温备妥后,学生泡茶、看汤色、闻香气、尝滋味,老师协助大家充分体认白毫乌龙的各种要点。

第三组都是需要高温冲泡的茶,水温控制好后,先泡需要4′的条型红茶与渥堆普洱(方法依旧),喝完且讲解后再泡5′30″的大红袍,最后再泡6′30″的铁观音。如果上课时间不允许,则四杯一起冲泡,每杯间隔10″。4′时倒出条型红茶,4′10″时倒出渥堆普洱,5′50″(原来需要的5′30″+前两次的间隔20″)时倒出大红袍,7′(6′30″+30″)时倒出铁观音。然后老师一起讲解。

最后请同学将七种茶的叶底(茶渣)倒于每组鉴定杯的碟子上,老师引导大家从事各种茶在采青成熟度、发酵程度、揉捻程度、焙火程度上的差异。

上课之所以采取上述的「品饮泡茶法」是为了让同学能正确认识到所选的七种茶样,而且让同学亲自操作。如果由工作人员把茶泡好,每人倒一杯,每桌再放一盘干茶样与叶底,教学效果没那么好的。如果直接让同学以「评鉴泡茶法」冲泡:将七组鉴定杯一路排开,七种茶样一一倒入,依黑板上写的方法操作:3g茶+150cc滾开水+5分钟,进行时是方便多了,但泡出来的茶汤有些会离该种茶应有的味道颇远,为什么呢?因为茶各有性,在评鉴泡茶法的同一泡茶条件下一定会遇到对某种茶不适合的状况,因此就会有的茶太淡有的茶太浓有的茶不是它应有的风格。这样如何让初学泡茶、喝茶的人认识各种茶的真面目?

谈到这里,有些人会问:使用国际鉴定杯,以评茶师惯用的评鉴泡茶法冲泡出来的茶汤不就是所谓的标准茶汤吗?不是的,这样得出的茶汤是某茶的「评鉴茶汤」不是某茶的「标准茶汤」,评鉴茶汤是给评茶师评判这种茶品质特征用的,如果太浓稠,虽然不好喝,但评茶师可能还会说它是好茶,因为它的水可溶物很多。但我们不能以这么浓的茶汤让初学者认识它就是这种茶的味道。有些茶就是特别强劲,与别的茶一起用评鉴泡茶法冲泡出来的茶汤可能又苦又涩,评茶师也可能会说它是好茶,因为茶性强劲又在那么高的水温浸泡。但初学者一见面就敬而远之了。

这么一说,鉴定杯的评鉴泡茶法就不用教了吗,不是的,这个课程是属于茶叶审评的范畴,应该在下一阶段才上。这个进阶班的课程要详细介绍国际鉴定杯组的标准规格、泡茶方式、官能评鉴法等。还要说明评鉴泡茶法与品饮泡茶法的不同不在于器物而在于泡法,使用鉴定杯组照样可以使用品饮泡茶法来泡茶。评鉴泡茶法的目的是让茶在同一条件下冲泡,让评鉴者了解该茶在茶叶体系内的各种状况;品饮泡茶法是针对各种茶况给予最适当的泡法,使得出该茶样最佳的茶汤供喝茶者品饮。上课时要用品饮泡茶法让初学者认识各种茶,也要用评鉴泡茶法让已学过茶的人知道这杯茶是怎样的品质特征,泡茶享用时要如何调节水温、用量与浸泡时间来扬长补短。

 

  (1767)

《茶铎八音-茶文化复兴之声》简体版/许玉莲著/201311

《茶铎八音-茶文化复兴之声》简体版

许玉莲著

出 版 社:中华工商联合出版社有限责任公司

图书策划公司:北京时代华文书局有限公司

日期:2013.11

ISBN:9787515807263

茶铎八音-茶文化复兴之声 目录
推荐序 品茶的生活艺术
推荐序 那个时代,那杯茶
推荐序 茶铎八音,茶文化复兴之声
自序 我的茶文化辨识系统
篇一 茶道观念
茶道艺术家的圣战
泡茶的艺术美
品茗的艺术美
茶汤的艺术美
赏茶的艺术美
茶具上的标签可去可留
茶道无正式与非正式之分
茶席茶会需要音乐陪衬吗
茶道作品要说自己的话
茶席与音乐的关系
茶法的真义
谁来泡茶的重要性
喝茶慢的必要
茶席上要有茶食吗
茶与人、地、物关系
茶与人、地、物感应
茶汤是茶叶新生命
茶道老师必须亲自泡茶奉茶喝茶
喝茶为何要会泡茶
要喝“好茶”
泡茶者资格检验表
我的珍茶一定要找他泡
等就等吧
茶会自备品杯使用说明
奉茶的原则
茶道艺术与茶道科学
自在品味
茶食与品茗间的争议
花、茶、具与茶道的距离
随性不同于自在,
篇二 茶文化复兴
泡茶者该有什么表情
办中学生茶艺生活营聚焦在哪里
马来西亚茶道在哪里
现在时空的茶文化要穿什么服饰来泡茶
茶文化复兴初期十年的茶馆
错过茶文化复兴的茶馆
马来西亚茶文化复兴的快速发展
马来西亚茶文化的诞生
尽是吃东西的茶馆
杭州茶馆见闻记与观后感
他们为什么要学茶
为马来西亚的茶文化复兴记下一笔
穿自己的茶衣
是坏习惯不是传统茶文化
如何让陌生人进入喝茶领域
您不知道他们是怎么看待茶的
茶道艺术展演应如何安排
别低估了茶友的能力
我对自己负责
“创新”不一定是好的“创作”
篇三 泡茶
泡茶新旧观念
茶叶不肮脏
**泡就把茶泡好
温润泡也不在普洱茶运用
茶叶不能捏碎冲泡
泡茶的繁与简、难与易
老茶不必温润泡
如何看待老六堡的陈放昧
初学者如何学泡茶
浸久一点与浸快一些
捡起打翻了的茶
冲泡茶之碎片
不舒服时要“喝对”茶
不同人泡的茶有不同效果
风格各异还是风格有误
茶杯卫生的处理
泡茶者的投入与感染。
泡茶者调整茶昧后再奉茶之谈
这么多人的泡茶练习怎么办
你泡茶我学功夫
怎样叫做把茶“泡好”了
篇四 品茶
品味茶的相、色香昧与渣
团揉茶的风格与享用
新旧佛手茶的欣赏
思念老焙火乌龙茶
传统型、熟香型及清香型铁观音之别
茶的好坏我知道
将龙井放成老茶
新老茶的欣赏
为什么要开一堂课叫“品老茶研习班”
篇五 器物
泡茶可使用不同茶器
选泡茶器的真义
紫砂壶牵强附会的说法
这样那样的壶泡茶特别好喝吗
茶具与泡茶品茗的关系
杯子质地与品茗关系之测试报告
篇六 茶会
茶道表演的现代精神
龙井品茗会
无我茶会之抽签谈
“品茗茶会”商品化的过程
无我茶会之茶席、泡茶谈
普洱六堡水仙茶会记
招待老师喝茶的错误实例
篇七 推广
时髦观音茶的弊病
茶商品是茶文化与茶的结合
茶企业设宴不喝茶
餐厅供应茶水的新方向
茶的香昧怎么说
茶叶产品说明的编写
茶叶产品说明的培训手册
制茶、卖茶也要会泡茶喝茶
卖茶从业员需要具备资格吗
槟城茶会记
是茶会活动还是品茗商品
买茶来喝与买茶投资
发展茶文化没茶泡
篇八 品茗馆
泡茶师在职场的地位
泡茶艺术家
泡茶师掌席时的工作
茶谱的规划
泡茶师的道场
为新年茶会规划的茶谱
为敏感体质茶友规划的茶谱
给孤独长者的茶谱规划
谁上品茗馆喝茶
品茗馆营运法则
“老茶品茗馆”开张
“老茶品茗馆”泡茶席设置
现在开设品茗馆的时代性意义
三十年从茶艺馆到了品茗馆
我们急切需要的品茗馆
简体字版后记

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《無我茶會Sans Self Tea Gathering》-蔡荣章著.韩文翻译版-2013.10

《無我茶會Sans Self Tea Gathering》-蔡荣章著.韩文翻译版-2013.10

2013.10,韩国International Tea Club出版

ISBN:978-89-6745-021-2  03570 (3115)

茶艺表演用艺人与茶道演示用茶人之别-20131104周一喝茶慢-许玉莲

茶艺表演用艺人与茶道演示用茶人之别

许玉莲

20131104周一喝茶慢MONDAY SLOW TEA

茶艺表演与茶道演示的差别在:茶艺表演只是以茶为题来从事的一种活动,人们在表演过程时较强调的是故事情节、演员、肢体动作和服装等,比如表演用茶叶来作为嫁娶聘金的礼节,提供了富丽堂皇热闹繁华的情境。表演向天地拜祭的献茶,呈现了大自然的美。表演道士在寺庙静坐也泡茶的过程,表达了道士修身养性的方法。但在这些节目里,茶只不过是一种道具而已。

茶道演示则需要以茶道艺术与内涵做主题表现,要以茶为中心,让茶自己说自己的话,茶道艺术首先要有一套完整程序的茶法,使用可以发挥茶性的茶具,冲泡制作优良的茶叶,然后泡茶者投入精神一门心思就是希望能把茶泡好,让品茗者用茶时可以体会到茶本身的生命力。

我们要说:茶艺表演可以用艺人上阵,茶道演示必须由茶人亲自做。

茶艺表演的演员可来自茶企业任何职员或专任茶艺表演的职员、爱好喝茶者、其它主办公司为茶会临时凑出来的演出份子、专职或业余舞台演员等,这类艺人不必懂茶,不必会喝茶和爱茶,他们只要扮演好被指定的角色如:该弹琴唱歌时要弹琴唱歌,该沉思泡茶时要沉思泡茶,换句话说,在这种茶艺表演节目中,包括泡茶者也可以是演员,认为他有足够演技演出泡茶者的表情和动作就可上台了。

这时大家没有意识到茶道主题,所以也不会太重视泡茶和茶汤的内涵,就把注意力放在表演者的容貌体态和服装上,因为那是最容易被看得见的「内容」,结果导致目前茶艺表演形成了美女天下,年轻貌美的女演员成为「泡茶者」的主流。

茶道演示则是茶人表现茶道内涵的亲身示范。茶人不但须对茶道理论颇有心得,并且还熟练实践茶道程序:把泡茶场所整理好,茶器摆置好,水和茶叶准备好,用细腻与崇敬的精神通过泡茶奉茶喝茶过程,将茶道意义呈献给品茗者。

茶道演示的要旨:茶人是将自己对茶道的领悟用具体手法示范,不含表演成分。大家注重的是茶人的用心与用神程度、茶人泡茶的专注、茶汤作品的精致,而不是茶人的外表、年龄、身材与服装,要是茶人的泡茶功夫不到家,大家会认为他/她不应、不配,茶人自己也不愿、不敢站在台上做演示。茶人们大多经历很长时间的茶道体验与锻炼,拥有清楚明白的手段和实力告示自己的心得才会做演示,而不是只要外表年轻好看就可以。

茶界有这两种不同的形式来传播和教育是可以接受,它们表现了不同层次的茶文化境界。目前这两种形式都并存在茶界,但它们的不分家、不管它们在较通俗性或较学术性的场合都可一起同台出现的混合做法引导大家误解,以为茶艺表演与茶道演示是相等词。小众不懂得欣赏茶道的,只把中心放在茶艺表演者的年轻貌美与穿着上,如果不表示欣赏他们还担心主办方怪他们不尊重呢。当茶界由得这种看法驾驭时,对要发展茶道内涵的深度将造成很大损失与伤害。

茶界在办茶文化活动时务必要调整心态,先定位好茶艺表演与茶道演示的规格与形态,而且要建立「节目」审评单位,送审过关了才可以上台呈现,不要分配式,或滥竽充数有人要呈现「节目」已经很高兴了。有规格有审评在那里大家知道,是茶艺表演还是茶道演示才不至于闹出笑话。

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