Tag Archives: 品茗

白毫乌龙(1998年)之茶法与茶赏-蔡荣章-20140129

泡茶师检定考试评委蔡荣章白毫乌龙(1998年)之茶法与茶赏

蔡荣章

20140129

这款白毫乌龙是台湾北部以青心乌龙的品种制作, 当年的初夏浮尘子(茶小绿叶蝉)繁殖颇旺, 所以茶树被叮咬的机率很大, 是制作白毫乌龙很好的时机。

此款白毫乌龙采一心一叶的芽叶为原料,又属重萎凋重发酵的做法,芽心满披茸毛呈白色,第一叶较嫩者是红色,较成熟者是橘红色。为使白毫凸显,发酵时的浪青、揉捻时的解块、复揉时的散热,均以扬拨的方式促使茸毛外张,同时也是让白毫乌龙茶的熟果味与蜜香味清扬不沉闷的制作手法。

此款白毫乌龙属特级品,朵朵茶叶皆有白毫, 而且心芽以外的叶片不大。由于陈放近16年, 白毫细小者已呈浅红, 白毫外之叶片已呈褐色, 特嫩之叶片甚至有呈暗褐者。

由于着延(受浮尘子叮咬)重,又是老茶,要以90℃的水温冲泡。着延后的细胞壁较为僵硬,水可溶物溶出速度较慢,所以第一道浸泡时间要长,但第二道以后就不必特意延长了,因为嫩采的芽茶其可溶物是丰富的。

冲泡六道,置放1/3壶的茶量(茶叶非常完整,无破碎者),第1道浸泡 1分 30秒,第2道浸泡 0分 25秒,第3道浸泡 0分 45秒,第4道浸泡 1分 15秒,第5道浸泡 2分 00秒,第6道浸泡 3分 00秒。

第一道茶汤呈微暗之橘红色,第二道以后在原有的明亮度下逐渐增加红的色彩。这其中因为长年陈放,增加了后氧化的红变,又因嫩采白毫多,虽重发酵又陈年,汤色仍未呈红色。但第二道以后,是因为浸泡时间的延长,汤色受氧化而变得愈来愈红。

数道汤香的基调是低沉的熟果香加上蜜香,往后数道的香气愈显低频,且加强了对口腔的冲击力。滋味上,前三道是清纯的收敛性,口腔感觉爽净,后三道逐渐感受到涩感,同时逐渐感知了茶汤的稠度。

第一道壶内的叶底具陈茶旧味,第二道以后逐渐減轻而显现熟果加蜜香的气味。第六道泡过,置壶至涼,打开壶盖,果蜜香较前数道更为清雅。

香味的细致绵长显现了青心乌龙品种的特性,香味频率的低沉显现了长期陈放的效应,涩感显现了初夏重萎凋茶的特色,熟果香显现了重发酵茶应有的风味,蜜香是茶青受浮尘子叮咬的结果,综合显现的雅致感是制茶师傅精良技术的成果(因为是特等茶)。

  (1962)

学韩国茶道之二:流派-许玉莲-20131223

学韩国茶道之二:流派

许玉莲

20131223

在我向文贞姬老师学习韩国茶道的过程中我观察到:韩国茶道在民间有很多流派,几乎每一位当茶道老师的就代表着一个流派,大众一旦要学泡茶,他和什么老师学就等于选择加入该流派。属于这流派或那流派没有什么好可怕的,流派的形成表示一些人对学术或艺术拥有自己的学说、方法和风格,当他传授这些观念时另一些人愿意追随,好比如大家选学校选科系,或跟从了哪一位老师学琴学舞蹈,就以那处的学说当作学习基础是那么的理所当然。其他地区似乎没有形成流派这个风气,大多以茶艺教室或私塾形式进行教学。

所谓的流派教学与学堂(即茶艺教室或私塾)教学,不一样之处是,学堂教学在特定时间有一定的教学内容需要完成。比如收费若干,每堂课2个小时,共18个小时要完成9堂课,期限完成后要发出席证书于学生。一般上课时老师需要不停演说来输出所规定的内容,要派发教学讲义、照片资料来加强学生对知识的掌握,学生一直要拍照做记录,有没有听进去、资料拿回去有没有读好像没有什么人会追究,「学习」普遍流于「体验」,大家觉得听一听看一看摸一摸也差不多了。

流派教学则凡事师傅在现场亲身做出来,不派讲义,无照片可看、也不准拍照,没有太多说话,要真正进入泡茶状况用自己的肢体把它表达出来。什么叫做专注的提起茶壶,什么叫做安心的等待茶叶浸泡,什么叫做恭敬的奉茶,什么叫做珍贵的茶汤,师傅会从头到尾一一做出来,弟子一一一起跟着做,一遍又一遍的做,每回上课都这样做。

流派教学还有几个特点如:一.师徒似乎都有一个默契即 必须下定决心要学这门功夫,我们才开始建立这种学习的习惯。因为这套教学模式的重点,是要看到弟子「必须能够好好的穿好你的衣服,好好的与喝茶者行一个正确的礼,好好的拿起茶席上的每一样器物,好好的将茶泡好、奉好、喝好」这件事情做好,就像我们去学弹琴、唱歌、跳舞,那是必须经过漫长的练习的一种体能训练,而不是空有理论嘴巴说说而已,也不是大概有个样子就可以了。所以弟子们要有「把茶道加入自己的生活方式中」的认同,才不会说今天学好了就可以停下来,过些天就荒废了的情况出现。故流派教学也不强调「毕业」,理论知识可以有某一阶段的「毕业」,但泡茶体能需要一直精炼不断。

二.上课时不说话、不拍照、不记录、也无幻灯片可看,老师和学生坐在一起,每回都是这样老老实实地一遍一遍的行礼,一遍一遍的把衣服每一个皱褶拉好,一遍一遍的说着同样的问候语,一遍一遍的泡茶、奉茶、喝茶。这样比较可以造就一种沉潜的环境更专心的投入泡茶,更容易接受到老师每一个动作散发出来的波动,学生也更能够产生一种自己观照自己的能力,长期经过这种泡茶锻炼的人相对的可表现得内敛一点淡然一点,因为他的身体已经记忆了这一切,「机械化」和「表演化」的动作已经被磨得变成一种「自然气质」。

三.一些人担心流派的形成,会妨碍文化艺术的发展,到时会不会变得一片死气沉沉的,人们不敢再提出新的观念与创见?对于一位新人来说,通过某一流派学习技能与领悟其中精神仿佛走入一条捷径,可避免陷入纠结或搞不清楚状况,即有人领航路比较好走,流派是值得鼓励的。

流派的成立是对自己的想法有坚持,勇敢表态的一种做法,韩国茶道界可以让众多流派生存,表示它的生态环境有这种养分,可滋养人们对茶道自主性表达出自己的想法,尊敬他人对茶道的诠释,茶道并非属于一个团体或个人的,要是你拥有强烈的创作力,拥有自创的技法与观念,你也可以开宗立派,能不能真的成为一位有影响力的大师当然要看后续的考验,但至少有播种机会。

流派也并非一成不变的,文贞姬老师使用的「薛玉子流派」茶法,在得到薛玉子老师同意之后她更动了两处程序,当我们的泡茶进行到那个步骤时,文贞姬老师说:某年某月我们认为这里需要修改,与薛玉子老师报告,薛玉子老师同意修改后,从此就修成现在这个样子。

  (1932)

20131218-海峡两岸新型农民交流培训基地茶业培训班的一次课-蔡荣章

 20131218

海峡两岸新型农民交流培训基地茶业培训班的一次课

蔡荣章

“海峡两岸新型农民交流培训基地茶业培训班” 已第三次在漳州科技学院举办为期一周的讲习,参加的是来自福建漳州地区县镇乡从事茶叶种植与买卖的茶企业经营者与员工共50名。这期有一次课程是整个下午三节的“两岸茶业互动问题”。

第一节谈到海峡两岸这30年几种茶类的兴起与变化。这几种茶类是指最早的普洱茶,继之的清香型铁观音、金骏眉型红茶、边销型黑茶,以及最近掀起的熟香型铁观音与已见苗头的老茶。这几种茶都是在短短的几年间就因市场的运作而兴旺了起来,而且价格翻了好几倍。不管它后来失宠了,但市场的高知名度已不是纯靠宣传广告可以比拟的,平均价格也不会降得比风浪之前的还低。这是茶文化复兴期间的茶产业大事,值得我们借鉴与研究。课堂上还分析了每种茶兴起的背景与相关的产销资讯,如铁观音的焙火工艺、普洱茶的入仓与渥堆等。

第二节谈到茶业除了「卖茶叶」外还可以卖什么,大家提出了卖包装、卖文化、卖服务,老师加上了「卖茶汤」。于是谈到为什么咖啡除卖咖啡豆以外还有咖啡汤市场,为什么茶汤不能脫离茶叶独自成为一件商品在市场上行销?讨论的结果是我们不重视茶汤,谈茶的效用时只谈它的保健与和谐,我们应该将人们的注意力放到茶汤的色香味与茶性风格的欣赏上。要达到聚焦于茶汤,必须强调泡茶技术的重要性,不能还说:淡一点有淡一点的风味,浓一点有浓一点的风味。一定要很精准地泡到该壶茶最佳的状况。而且从自家店面接待客人或开会时做起,奉一杯看来就值钱的「茶汤」。有了这些社会背景,才可不再怨叹为什么我们的茶馆业不如咖啡馆业的兴盛。

第二节课来不及下课就进入到了第三节,这节研讨了阻碍茶业发展的二项事。一是到处的茶艺表演,看表演者经常是喝不到茶汤的,于是以为茶文化就是看表演,以为茶道的重点就在表演者、表演者的肢体表现、茶席的布置、茶席上的音乐。甚至公办的茶艺技能竞赛也将茶汤分数的占比降至40%,超越茶汤重要性的是服装、音乐、仪态等等。第二项阻碍茶业发展的是人们学茶的机会不多、质量不好。开设茶文化专业的学校都是中、高职校或本科以上高校,这个年龄层的科系选择受父母长辈的影响很大,父母长辈对茶产业茶文化理解不多,宁可孩子选择商业与科技方面的科系。向往茶产业与茶文化的都是已进入职场的成年人,他们无力回学校当学生,只有找民间的茶道教室。但民间的茶道教室尚缺乏师资培训与认证的机制,教学的质量无法保证,甚至以讹传讹。希望设有茶文化科系的学校能赶快在方便这些职场人员或家庭主妇上课的地方设置教育与认证的场所。

以上这些话题都是海峡两岸茶业与茶文化发展上共同的问题,在这样一个“海峡两岸新型农民交流培训基地” 的“茶业培训班”上提出探讨最是恰当。最后有学员提出:我们只是小地方的小农小企,怎能扭转这样的乾坤?结论是:从泡好一杯茶做起,从奉上一杯有价值的茶汤做起,当有人邀您参与茶文化活动时不要说我是小企一家,出不了多少钱,要知道这一点钱是买“肥料”(茶文化)的钱,是让茶树(茶产业)长好必要的成本。

 

  (1949)

茶道教学茶艺表演茶道演示是不一样的-20131125周一喝茶慢-许玉莲

茶道教学茶艺表演茶道演示是不一样的

许玉莲

20131125周一喝茶慢MONDAY SLOW TEA

茶道教学的泡茶课教些什么?解说和示范泡茶方法,然后学生练习之。适合在什么场所上课呢?最好能够在正式教室,拥有学生泡茶练习时所需要用到的茶具、设备。被聘外出上课,老师需要带足够茶具到现场或请对方备齐所需茶器,不要把泡茶课变成一项没有泡茶,也不喝茶的课。我们还要要求到每位学生最好能够有一套可以完整操作的器皿,而不必与多人合用一套,这样学生才能摸到感受到。

接下来就要选场合,教学最好能在「闭门」情况下进行,就是要有一批「目标学生」,从头到尾把整堂课上完。但现在有些民间教学机构流行「被看见」,有时也把上课安排在公共场合(如卖场或活动)「开门」进行,即上课情形与在「闭门」教室举行的一模一样,不过四周无墙、透明,凡走过的人都可以看见大家在上课,觉得新奇的站着看看,不喜欢的转身走开。这时候应该只允许他们站在场外听和看,不被允许进场,一来有些人不喜欢当学生,二来人们抱着逛街血拼心态出门,突然间请他入座上课,师生都会产生突兀感觉。上课需要专心与尊重,如果让大家随意进进出出会影响学习的环境与态度。

无论上课地点属于「闭门」或「开门」,上课的方式是应用于一群正式报读的人,心里已经准备好的学生才能接受:我现在是来学习的。有些场合不能用教学方式,强迫大家上课会引起对方反感。要是大家只是为了应酬而入座,并不在意上了什么课,那么这样子的一堂课是没有必要存在的,勉为其难随便坐在这里的人也不会尊重茶道老师,茶文化也将变得一文不值。

有心想要上课的人,我们要给他实施正式的茶道教学。茶道教学是传授知识,通过解说和示范完成,学生付学费学了之后自己会做会说,便是造就了一门学问。

茶界想要引导新人入门或举办娱乐性较高的茶活动,不妨举办茶艺表演。茶艺表演是利用茶作为媒介,以歌舞、戏剧、话剧、默剧等手法为主,当作舞台节目演出,观众或随意或购票入场,或茶界有活动时,将之安排成观摩,大家就当作看表演。

在比较学术性的场合则适宜茶道演示,让大家在潜移默化中感悟对方的内涵,就不会发生互相排斥的现象。茶道演示可售票或邀请方式进行。茶道演示与茶艺表演与茶道教学的做法与意义不一样。茶道演示是只靠着泡茶、奉茶、喝茶动作让人们明白什么叫做茶道。茶人演示的动作与方法要让大家明白他在表达些什么。好的茶道演示的感动力大于上课和表演的方式。人们可带着去欣赏一个艺术作品的心态参与。

茶道教学的师资经过培训与认证制度可获得,有些茶人以此为职业。如今比较具争议性的是茶艺表演,目前发展情况是茶人或非茶人(泛指其他非茶业界)皆可担任「演员」,其茶艺表演中的内容与演出手法有些也和茶无关,我们关注茶艺表演的节目是否会成为茶文化发展的阻力呢。茶道演示是属于不喧哗,比较内敛深沉的一种表现茶道的方法,目前较少看到茶人公开采用此手法来演示给大家看,不知道是拥有此能耐的茶人不多,还是没有适合茶道演示的场合,还是人们不喜欢欣赏它。

 

  (1879)

無我茶會Sans Self Tea Gathering (Wu-Wo Tea Ceremony)Chapter 12 Promoting Sans Self Tea Gatherings and its Meaning-蔡荣章Rong-tsang Tsai

《無我茶會Sans Self Tea Gathering (Wu-Wo Tea Ceremony)180條》

蔡荣章著Author:Rong-tsang Tsai

ISBN 978-957-9690-08-9,“无我茶会Sans Self Tea Gathering(Wu-Wo Tea Ceremony) 180” ,First edition: 1999.9, Second edition: 2010.9.《无我茶会180条》,1999.9第一版,2010.9第二版.台北陆羽茶艺股份有限公司.2012.05.20修订版.-English Translator : Katherine Yip,英语翻译:叶德明.

Chapter 12  Promoting Sans Self Tea Gatherings and its Meaning

156. How should we promote ‘Sans Self Tea Gathering’?

To promote Sans Self Tea Gathering, the Chinese International Sans Self Tea Gathering Promotion Association has engaged ‘Sans Self Tea Gathering Instructors’ and ‘Teachers of the Way of Tea’ to conduct classes and training at both permanent and ad hoc locations, while encouraging these teachers to introduce systematic ‘Classes on the Way of Tea’ at fixed venues. The curriculum covers not only Sans Self Tea Gathering but also other areas of the study of tea.

157. Incorporating Sans Self Tea Gathering into the curriculum of courses on the Way of Tea

Following the initial efforts in promoting Sans Self Tea Gathering, this unique form of tea gathering has been incorporated into the curriculum of various courses of the Way of Tea. Sans Self Tea Gatherings are organized the world over. 《Sans Self Tea Gathering: Tea Gathering as an artistic manifestation of the Way of Tea》is an elementary textbook for the teaching of Sans Self Tea Gathering.

158. Setting up ‘Sans Self Tea Gathering’ Community Centre

We wish that ‘Sans Self Tea Gathering’ Community Centre can be set up at different places for fellow tea drinkers to attend regularly-held Tea Gatherings. A weekly Sans Self Tea Gathering could be scheduled, and participants may get acquainted with each other before and after the tea gathering. Practices can be held regularly at the Community Centre when it is not used for hosting Sans Self Tea Gatherings. Similarly, the venue can be used for imparting knowledge about tea.

159. The importance of integrity to Sans Self Tea Gathering

The tea ware for Sans Self Tea Gathering can be of any design, which makes it simple for a beginner to put together a tea set for the occasion.  Meanwhile, a complete set of user-friendly tea ware not only boosts one’s interest but also the desire to acquire the necessary items when one has built up his confidence.

It is fine to prepare ten to twenty sets of spare tea ware for beginners for practice purposes, but the students must be asked to acquire their own set when they have reached a certain stage in course of practice.

160. Flexibility and Reach of Sans Self Tea Gathering

Sans Self Tea Gathering is a very flexible form of gathering. It encourages floor seating, thus eliminating the need of tables and chairs. Participants bring along their own tea ware, seating mat and boiled hot water. As such, it is possible to have the tea gatherings both indoors and outdoors.

For Sans Self Tea Gathering, there is no need of any event conductor or leader.  There is also practically no limit to the number of participants — it does not matter if some participants are blocked by buildings or knolls on site, or they spread across miles. Meanwhile, participants can offer tea to onlookers during a Sans Self Tea Gathering if this is intended for the event. For example, if there are 100 participants, and each brews four cups of tea for the onlookers, 400 onlookers will be served; and if each participant brews two rounds of four cups each, they will be brewing a total of 800 cups, which means that 800 onlookers will be served.  If the Organizer has arranged for a presenter, he will brief a substantial number of onlookers the nature of ‘Sans Self Tea Gathering’ and ‘the Way of Tea’ as the event progresses. The reach and spread that can be achieved by a Sans Self Tea Gathering needs no further illustration.

161. How could we highlight the style and characteristics of Sans Self Tea Gathering?

It is important to emphasize the characteristics of a Sans Self Tea Gathering as soon as you begin promoting it.  Make it clear that no one should speak once brewing starts, and there is no arrangement for guests to make speeches, etc. Otherwise, the special style of Sans Self Tea Gathering will be overlooked and undermined. If the Organizer fails to insist on the standard practice right from the start – for fear of the gathering becoming too serious – and allows fellow tea drinkers to engage in conversation while sipping tea and taking snacks, participants will think that there is no difference between Sans Self Tea Gathering and ordinary tea gathering, with the only exception being the loop formation and floor seating. This way, the unique characteristics of Sans Self Tea Gathering will become oblivious in due course.

 

To promote Sans Self Tea Gathering the way it should be, a clear understanding of the practice and meaning is essential. This is the only way to stay true to the format and convince participants and partners.  For example, if a co-organizer requests to have the person-in-charge of their company deliver a speech, explain to him that this is inappropriate. Or, the musician invited for the post-tea performance may think that a five-minute performance is too short and ask for a longer introduction, explain clearly the reason behind this arrangement. Such clarification is important to the promotion of Sans Self Tea Gathering.

162. Why is there no arrangement for VIP seating and speech of attending officials?

There is no special seating arrangement – in the midst, outside or inside the loop formation – for local celebrities or attending officials.  We welcome these guests to draw lots for seating and brewing as other participants. This is every way as appropriate as having these guests seated ‘apart from the rest’. If they are unable to brew with the others but like to learn more about or advocate such tea gatherings, invite them to stay outside of the loop formation and observe or be served tea like the other onlookers.

Likewise, speech-giving by the attending official would clash with the unique style of Sans Self Tea Gathering. Instead, invite the official to brew and serve tea along with the participants. This could be more impactful.  Our experience shows that the official would agree to substitute speech-giving with tea-brewing, provided we explain the procedure and meaning of Sans Self Tea Gathering in details. If he wants to give special  messages during the occasion, the Organizer may suggest to have him do so during the group photo session, or after the tea gathering, or during ‘post event activities’.

163. Why don’t we have background music during a Sans Self Tea Gathering

No music is played or being performed throughout a Sans Self Tea Gathering –  from the time when registration begins to packing up – because it may weaken the ‘flavour’ of such a unique tea gathering and does not serve the purpose of music appreciation.  Some people may think that background music can contribute to the atmosphere; the reality is, music can be a source of distraction; this would be worse if the songs are familiar to us. Without music, we will channel all our attention to tea, brewing, interpersonal relationship and the spirit of the tea gathering. This way, the style of Sans Self Tea Gathering will become more prominent, and the impact of the Way of Tea on everyone present will be stronger.

 

Music can be introduced after the last cup of tea to accentuate the ‘beauty of the void’. At this juncture, everyone at the tea gathering can sit back and listen to the music, while relishing the aftertaste of the tea. If more time for music appreciation is preferred, the Organizer may allocate a longer period for music performance as part of the ‘post-event activities’.

164.  ‘Post-tea activities’ would best be carried out by participants

Organizing a Sans Self Tea Gatherings should be hassle-free.  It is important to keep administration to a minimum; there are no specially-appointed organizing team members – tasks are shared by fellow tea drinkers (with the exception of special tasks such as video filming).  By the same token, it would be best if participants are responsible for post-tea activities. They may stay in their respective places, or move slightly to the side where the musical instrument is, and sing or play a piece of music. This is the easiest way to fulfil the intention of illustrating the ‘beauty of the void’ because the performers are also participants.

165. Organizing a promotional Sans Self Tea Gathering

Any quiet place will be good for a Sans Self Tea Gathering among friends. However, if a Sans Self Tea Gathering is to be organized to create awareness among members of the public, it is advisable to find a popular spot with a lot of traffic. It is essential to have a presenter at promotional Sans Self Tea Gathering; otherwise, onlookers would be at a loss. Meanwhile, it would be more effective to get onlookers warm up to the idea of Sans Self Tea Gathering if they will be offered tea.

To enhance the effect of a Sans Self Tea Gathering where the public will be briefed, prepare a set of written information introducing this form of gathering, including places where those interested can take relevant lessons. It is even better if the Organizer can include a ‘trial’ tea gathering at the end of the tea gathering. Find out how many people are interested, and assign one participant as mentor to each person interested. These mentors would lend their sets of tea ware to the newcomers. As the presenter explains the procedure, the newcomers will practise with the help of their mentors by the side. This is ideal as the newcomers can put into practice – with readily-available tea ware –what they saw and heard a while ago. Pre-event preparation would be necessary. The Organizer should remind participants to bring one extra flask of hot water (or have hot water refill on site), an additional cup (or have paper cups for everyone), and put more tealeaves in the teapot (the same tealeaves can be used for brewing during this trial round).

166. Application of Sans Self Tea Gathering for other occasions

Sans Self Tea Gathering is an occasion when tea is used as a means to get together. It can also be adopted in the following ways:

a. As a teaching method for ‘tea identification’ in the study of the Way of  Tea. For example, the teacher will divide students into groups of four and ask each one in a group to bring along a certain kind of tea. Adopting the format the Sans Self Tea Gathering, each member of a group will serve the tea brewed with tealeaves he has brought along. As the end, each member of a group would have sampled and learned about the characteristic of each of the four teas.

b. As a form of practice for brewing in the study of the Way of Tea.  For example, the teacher will bring along, or ask the students to bring along a particular tea, with which everyone will practice brewing according to the format of Sans Self Tea Gathering. This way, each student will be able to drink four cups of the same kind of tea (assuming each serves four cups) and assess if each cup is well brewed or poorly brewed.

c. As a form of engagement or wedding ceremony.  The time for ‘Tea Ware Appreciation and Networking’ session can be used for the engagement or wedding ceremony, after which the newly-wed couple can brew with fellow tea drinkers.  The bride and groom serve tea to each other’s parents; while other participants serve tea according to the agreed conditions of Sans Self Tea Gathering (The seats of the bride and groom are considered those of non-brewers). ‘Serving tea to onlookers’ is effectively serving tea to guests attending the ceremony.  Post-tea activities could be singing by friends and relatives, and the tea gathering may or may not be followed by a wedding banquet.  What’s being advocated by Sans Self Tea Gathering can be applied to marriage, and adopting the tea gathering as a form of wedding ceremony is both symbolic and appropriate.

d. The tea gathering can also be held in memory of a person.  For this purpose, The time for ‘Tea Ware Appreciation and Networking’ session can be used for ‘paying tribute to a person ’, followed by participants offering their first cup of tea to the subject of tribute. After this, tea could be offered to fellow tea drinkers or other participants of the memorial gathering. Post-tea activities could be chanting or group singing of remembrance. Such arrangement enables the subject of tribute to take the same cup of tea with everyone present – and ‘drinking literally from the same cup’ makes the occasion so much more touching and memorable.

167. Sans Self Tea Gathering’ in English, Japanese and Korean

Sans Self Tea Gathering is known as 「無我茶會」in Chinese, Japanese and Korean, as  the Chinese-, Japanese- and Korean-speaking  audiences can readily recognized the term. In English, this unique form of tea gathering was first translated as Anatman Tea Convention, followed by Wu-wo Tea Ceremony. In spring 2012, we decided to rephrase it to ‘Sans Self Tea Gathering’, given the fact that the tea gathering celebrates the realization of , literally ‘the absence of’ or ‘void’. ‘無我’ should be understood as ‘I who understand the idea of nothingness’. Sans, an archaic French word meaning ‘without’, has been made popular by some of the greatest literary works through the ages, including William Shakespeare’s comedy “As You Like It”. To call it a tea gathering, instead of a tea ceremony, is to better reflect its nature as the founders see it.

168. What is the International ‘Sans Self Tea Gathering’ Organization?

Tea drinkers in different countries and regions have undertaken to promote Sans Self Tea Gathering. They take turn to host large scale ‘International Sans Self Tea Gathering’ at regular intervals at agreed locations. The Organizer of an international Sans Self Tea Gathering is the Sans Self Tea Gathering Organization of the country or region. The Leaders’ Convention of an International Sans Self Tea Gathering is the occasion when member organizations of the International Sans Self Tea Gathering Organization meet up to discuss issues pertaining to the promotion of Sans Self Teat Gathering and the host of the upcoming event.

169. Is there a need of a standardized flag and anthem for the Sans Self Tea Gathering?

We had introduced a flag and an anthem for Sans Self Tea Gathering when it was first launched. These are still used in certain countries and regions. However, they have not been stated as the standardized flag and anthem, because we do not regard this an important issue.

170. What is the meaning behind ‘Sans Self Tea Gathering’ ?

‘Sans Self Tea Gathering’ is a way of thinking and a form of tea gathering pertaining to the study of tea. ‘Sans Self’ should be understood as ‘I who understand the idea of nothingness’. Only in the state of ‘nothingness’ can ‘something’ be born. One can hardly attain wellbeing if one’s mind is preoccupied with wealth, fame, status, beauty and endless chores. The state of nothingness is neither a state of ignorance nor death.  An analogy of such a state will be the colourless light which is effectively a convergence of different colours. The colours in our life are distilled by ‘tea’; this enables us to enter into a state with an ‘absence of colours’.

171. Sans Self Tea Gathering for one to thousands and millions of participants

Sans Self Tea Gathering may have begun with one person.  When a person brews and enjoys tea with no disturbance or distraction, it is more likely that he can savour the taste of tea, understand the brewing process, contemplate how a brewer’s state of mind affects the taste of tea, calm himself and come face to face with his true self. In fact, we encourage everyone to take tea alone, and look upon this as the basis of the Way of Tea.

When you have a clear idea of what it is like having tea on your own, you may invite your closest friend and ‘have both drinking tea alone’ –  the two of you will brew tea on your own, serve each other tea, all in silence. A deeper understanding between you two can be achieved in the course of brewing, serving and drinking tea. As distraction is kept to the minimum, you will understand each other better. You will be able to experience more and learn the way to staying quiet in others’ presence. When you have achieved an understanding of a state of nothingness in the presence of another person, you may proceed to invite a small group of three to five good friends, and introduce them to this way of having tea. Practise the Way of Tea together in the spirit of ‘emptiness and solitude’. Feel the tranquility and freedom in the midst of a larger group. This way, the number of people for a Sans Self Tea Gathering can reach thousands and millions.

 

  (2259)

無我茶會Sans Self Tea Gathering (Wu-Wo Tea Ceremony-Chapter 11 Pre-event Preparation and Things that Matter to the Organizer -蔡荣章Rong-tsang Tsai

《無我茶會Sans Self Tea Gathering (Wu-Wo Tea Ceremony)180條》

蔡荣章著Author:Rong-tsang Tsai

ISBN 978-957-9690-08-9,“无我茶会Sans Self Tea Gathering(Wu-Wo Tea Ceremony) 180” ,First edition: 1999.9, Second edition: 2010.9.《无我茶会180条》,1999.9第一版,2010.9第二版.台北陆羽茶艺股份有限公司.2012.05.20修订版.-English Translator : Katherine Yip,英语翻译:叶德明.

Chapter 11 Pre-event Preparation and Things that Matter to the Organizer 蔡荣章Rong-tsang Tsai

144. The opportune time for a Sans Self Tea Gathering

  1. For Learning:  As a channel for those who want to familiarize themselves with the Way of Tea.
  2. For Personal Improvement: As an invaluable opportunity for the betterment of oneself.
  3. For Highlighting Seasonal Changes: As a reminder of the changes in nature in tune with the seasonal cycle, e.g. when maple leaves turn red, when snow falls deep in the night, when plum blossoms are in full bloom….
  4. For Celebration: As a form of celebration, be it wedding anniversary, special anniversaries, career promotion, windfall, and any other occasions that call for celebration.
  5. For Commemoration:  As an occasion dedicated to a special day; to bid farewell or to pay tribute to someone.
  6. For Promotion: As a great platform to introduce the idea of Sans Self Tea Gathering and encourage more people to join.

145. How should we name a Sans Self Tea Gathering

With the exception of Sans Self Tea Gatherings organized for the sake of practice, each gathering could be given a name for easy reference and a clear focus on the theme. It should reflect the objective – for example, ‘New Leaves of Spring” Sans Self Tea Gathering held in a budding beech-maple forest as a reminder of the arrival of spring; ‘Breaking Dawn’ Sans Self Tea Gathering for sharing the experience of a moment at daybreak; or ‘Familial Bonding’ Sans Self Tea Gathering held on Mother’s Day to reiterate the strong tie between parents and children.

146. Reconnaissance

It is important for the Organizer to carry out a field visit before or after decision is made on the venue. This will shed light on the following:

a. How many people can the place accommodate? What kind of seating plan should be adopted? How flexible it is with regard to the number of seats?

b. Contingency plan for rainy day or bad weather

c. Routes, aisles and registration counter on site

d. Position of the audio console and amplifiers and sound effect, if required

e. Arrangement for the arrival of participants and parking

f. Facilities including lavatories

g. Movement and traffic of non-participants and possible crowd interruption

h. Control of lighting for evening event

i. Location for post-event group photo session

j. What kind of ‘Post-event Activities’ can be lined up?

k. How large should the signage be? Is it necessary to prepare some directional signs for the venue?

147.  Which tasks are to be handled by specific personnel during the preparation and when the tea gathering is in progress?

The ‘Task List’ featured in the ‘Notification’ ensures that the persons involved are aware of their respective tasks and their contribution to successful event organization acknowledged. This ‘simplified’ way of announcement does away with separate notification and printing materials.

The ‘Task List’ details the tasks before and during a Sans Self Tea Gathering, and those responsible for these tasks. The list would include: The Organizer, the Convener, Venue Committee (which handles seat arrangement, seat number plates, seating plans, directional signs and audio setup, etc); General Affairs Committee (which is responsible for signing-in, time-synchronizing, drawing of lots, distributing tea cups for onlooking guests and stamping of passbook, etc); Networking Committee (which helps participants get to know each other and welcomes members of the media); Social Committee (which takes care accommodation, dining, transportation and health concerns of participants, especially overseas participants, as well as taking charge of on-site order and security); Record Committee (which is in charge of video filming, photography and recording of the Tea Gathering); Post-tea Activities Committee (which organizes post-tea activities);and Post-event Activities Committee (which is responsible for the arrangement of post-event photo session and post-event activities).

148. Who are the members of the Organizing Committees?

It would be ideal to have participants helping out. This way, they can move on to brew tea with the others when their tasks are completed.  However, large-scale Sans Self Tea Gatherings would require video recording crew and photographers.  It may also call for a dedicated service desk to attend to urgent matters throughout the event, or security personnel keeping order at the venue.  In these cases, it is necessary to hire professional assistance.

149. How to inform participants of the procedure of the tea gathering (preparation of the ‘Notification’)

Prior to a Sans Self Tea Gathering, each participant will receive a ’Notification’. Besides the ‘Task List’, the ’Notification’ also specifies the following: name (theme) of the tea gathering, date and time, venue, number of participants, matters pertaining to brewing  (including number of cups to be served, number of teas to be brewed and rounds of brewing), serving method (including the parties to be served, and whether onlookers are to be served), seating arrangement, post-event activities, procedure of the tea gathering and the contingency plans for rain and wet weather.

The procedure should specify both the ‘time’ and ‘procedure’, including the starting time of venue set up, participants signing-in, tea ware appreciation and networking session, brewing, post-tea activities, packing up, group photo session, post-event activities as well as the end of the post-event activities.

Inclusion of the name of companies, organizations or political parties; occasion; trade name of teas and the tea production areas in the name of Sans Self Tea Gatherings is considered inappropriate. The same goes with tea gatherings dedicated to a particular type of tea. The exception would be tea gatherings held in memory of or as a tribute to a person. This is to ensure that the tea gatherings would not be abused and turned into advertising time.

In principle, there should not be any restrictions with regard to the choice of tealeaves, unless for special reasons, such as for commemorative tea gatherings. In such cases, non-commercialized names such as ‘non-fermented teas’ or ‘post-fermented teas’ could be included in the name of the gathering.

As for ‘other agreed-upon matters’, there should not be any restrictions on the tea ware and brewing method, as well as particular style of clothing.

  Sans Self Tea Gathering: Notification                                                              No:

Name of the Tea Gathering

Date and Time

Venue

Venue                      (for rainy weather)

No. of participants

No. of types of tea

Number of cups

No. of brews for each tea

Serving method

Other agreed-upon matters

Post-tea activities

Post-event activities

Procedure

Task list

Venue set-up begins

The Organizer

Participants registration and seating allocation begins

The Convener

Followed by

‘Tea ware and networking’ session begins

Venue Committee

Brewing begins

Signing-in Committee

After the last brew has been taken ’Post-tea’ activities begin

Lot Drawing Committee

Followed by

Packing up

Networking Committee

Followed by

Group photo session

Social Committee

’Post-event’ activities begin

Record Committee

’Post-event’ activities end

Post-tea Activities Committee

Post-event Activities Committee

‘Pre-event briefing and tea-brewing practice’

Date, time, venue and instructor

Person in Charge

Telephone No.

E-mail

(Contact information of The Organizer)

150. How could we explain to participants the spirit and procedure of the tea gathering (Organizing the ‘Pre-event Briefing’)

Enabling participants to fully understand the spirit and procedure is a prerequisite to a successful Sans Self Tea Gathering. Information about Sans Self Tea Gathering may have been imparted during tea culture classes; however, it is absolutely necessary to host a ‘Pre-event Briefing’ for first-time participants. While the participating groups may brief their members, dedicated briefings could also be put together by the Organizer.  Such ‘Pre-event Briefings’ should be clearly stated in the ‘Notification’, along with details of the date, time, venue and instructor.

It will be best if demonstration and practice could be arranged besides verbal presentation during the Pre-event Briefing.  Tea ware could be brought along by the participants attending the training, or provided by the party responsible for the training.  However, participants must bring along their own tea ware when they attend the Sans Self Tea Gathering, after which they can use the tea ware in their daily lives.

151. How to make sure preparation is in place before the tea gathering? (The use of ‘Task Checklist’)

Prepare a checklist with details of each task for pre-event preparation to avoid  oversight.

         Sans Self Tea Gathering: Task Checklist

NO.          Description           Remarks  Checked

1

Venue Planning

2

Notification (including details of each task)

3

Pre-event Briefing

4

Audio Equipment

5

Signage (name of the tea gathering, directional signs, etc)

6

Number of Participants and Seat Control (projection of absentees)

7

Seating and Serving non-brewing participants

8

Seat Number Plates

9

Venue Boundary Markers

10

Seating Plan

11

Sign-in Book at the Registration Counter

12

Paper Strips for seat numbers and signing

13

Time Synchronizing Tools

14

Identification Tags

15

Venue Coordination

16

Guest Reception and Social Networking

17

Post-tea Activities

18

Post-event Activities

19

Post-event Venue Clear-up

20

Announcement and Briefing at the Group Photo Session

21

Contingency Measures for rainy weather

22

Cup Position Indication Plan for a commemorative Sans Self Tea Gathering

23

Cups for the Onlookers

24

Distribution of Promotional Leaflets

25

Coordination with the Presenter

26

Keeping Order at the Venue

27

28

29

30

31

32

33

 

152. Record of the Tea Gathering

Compile a record of the Sans Self Tea Gathering for each ‘Organizer’. Each record should include basic information about the tea gathering, registry, key photos or video recording.

Revise, amend and make addition to the original ‘Notification’ to come up with the basic information about the tea gathering.  Affix the signed strips of paper in a book according to the order of the numbers to produce a registry.

153. How to control the number of participants

The Organizer should have kept a detail record of each participant’s name, organization and contact telephone number, regardless of the fact the person registers on his own, or as part of a group. A rough estimate on the number of participants does not suffice. Furthermore, information of participants will have to be verified one by one when the date of the tea gathering draws near. Identification tags, if used, can be issued to the individuals once the personal information is confirmed to alleviate the workload at the registration counter on the day of the tea gathering.

If participants have to pay to attend the tea gathering, try to collect the fees prior to the tea gathering when they sign up, and issue identification tags accordingly when payment is made. The Organizer must think of a way to make it convenient for participants to make payment beforehand; payment on the spot is not only likely to cause delay but also makes it hard for the Organizer to control the number of participants.

154. How much time should be allocated to each step of the procedure?

Time allocated for signing in depends on the number of participants and tasks involved. A large gathering would require more time (in this case, the Organizer may consider setting up a few lot drawing stations). A paid event with an extensive task list and accommodates on-the-spot registration (whereby participants did not sign up before the day) will naturally call for longer time; all the more if cups for onlookers are to be distributed to the participants when they sign in. As such, time allocated for signing-in needs to be adjusted accordingly. Nevertheless, try to finish it within half an hour even if it is a tea gathering with a thousand participants – otherwise, the entire tea gathering may seem to drag on too long.

For the duration for the ‘Tea ware Appreciation and Networking’ session, the Organizer may want to consider the number of participants and if they know each other well.  If the group is small, and degree of familiarity high, it does not require a long time – 20 minutes or less for not more than 50 people is about right. If participants are not familiar with each other, and come from different countries or regions, the duration may be extended to 30 minutes. However, if there are hundreds of participants from overseas, it is not practical to calculate the allocated time on this basis as appreciating tea ware alone may take up a lot of time. Try to limit the duration to 50 minutes to avoid having the tea gathering last for too long.  For a tea gathering with 20 to 30 friends who get together often, a 10-minute session is good enough; ‘sitting quietly’ for a few minutes could be an alternative.

For a tea gathering serving three rounds of tea, 20 minutes would be enough for brewing and serving. This could be extended to 30 minutes if the gathering serves four rounds of tea, two each to onlooking guests and fellow participants.  The environment rather than the ‘number of people’ is a major factor in this case.  For example, it will require a longer duration if the tea gathering takes place at a scenic spot with more space in between seats; by the same token, the duration could be shortened if the tea gathering is held indoors in a small, enclosed venue.

Five minutes could be the norm for the duration of ‘Post-tea activities’ regardless of the number of participants – a duration any longer than this may undermine the impact of the ‘beauty of the void’ after tea is served and taken.

For a tea gathering with no more than 50 participants, allocate five minutes for packing up. Make it ten minutes if there are more than a hundred participants.

All in all, a Sans Self Tea Gathering should be over in an hour regardless of the number of participants. We do not encourage one that drags on – for an exceptionally large-scale event, it should not exceed two hours.

155. How to identify participants of a Sans Self Tea Gathering?

Identification is not a cause for concern among a small group of friends meeting up for a Sans Self Tea Gathering.  However, it becomes a reason to worry if the tea gathering is meant for a large crowd, or participants unfamiliar with each other. Use identification tags which have the added benefits of breaking the ice among strangers.

  (1946)

我如此享用一杯茶-蔡荣章-20130814周三小方块

我如此享用一杯茶

蔡荣章

20130814周三小方块WEDNESDAY TEA CORNER

在我想喝茶的时候,我会选一款让我喝了很舒服的茶, 所谓很舒服是指喝了顺口,不会很快产生饥餓感, 不会有难以下咽的感觉。经验告诉我,这样的茶都与品质有关。我不在意茶的不同种类与风味差异,我很关注这款茶是否依它的天性将它做得到位。做得到位的茶不一定就是市场价位最高的茶,我会避开供不应求的时段与类别,我会随时储备一些这样的茶在身边。

放在身边的茶是要照顾的,我会依它们的需要放置在不同湿度与温度的地方(晒太阳与有异味是不行的),需要的时候给予适当的复火或常温式的干燥, 喝饼茶时提早二三天将茶剥离到接近散茶的程度。

泡茶的用水是平时就会准备的, 这时要关注的是这泡茶所需的温度。是这泡茶, 不是这种茶也不是这包茶, 因为这泡茶的茶况不见得与这一包茶一样,更不见得与这一种茶一样, 最明显的是细碎的程度不同, 或是多拨了一些较老的叶子入壶。这时的水温就需要微调。

我会选一把适合这包茶的壶, 所谓适合是指能将这包茶的特性表现得最好的壶, 如应选银壶、紫砂壶、或瓷壶?若是陶瓷壶还要决定不同的烧结程度。我会拿出喝茶最佳的杯子, 这是累积经验逐步留下来的杯子, 无需另行挑选, 这样的杯子才不会折损用心冲泡出来的茶汤。

我会依拟冲泡的次数在壶内置入适量的茶叶, 冲入该茶喜欢温度的热水, 精准地计算浸泡的时间, 然后将茶汤倒出。我会将茶汤倒干, 以免影响这一道预期的浓度以及下一道茶汤浓度的控制。我会很有耐心地等茶汤滴干。

我会使用一把附有细密滤网的茶盅(滤网经常是架设在盅口上), 这样将茶汤一次倒入茶盅时可以将茶末过滤得很干净, 接着分倒入杯饮用, 就可以欣赏到完整的茶汤颜色,饮用时也不必担心茶渣进入口中。这时我可以完整地享用茶汤。

喝完第一道通常会继续冲泡第二道, 等壶内的茶叶稍微降温后, 闻闻壶内的香气, 从浓郁、尚足、或是清微,判断该泡茶的质量与水可溶物的多寡, 水可溶物丰富者接下来的浸泡时间不必太长。还要看看茶叶舒展的状况,如果原本紧结的茶这时才刚刚松开,接下来浸泡的时间是要缩短得厲害的,剥得不是很散的饼茶或砖茶亦是如此。第二道缩短的程度还要看置茶量的多少,置茶量愈多缩短的幅度要愈大。如置放了四分之一壶的高质量球型高山乌龙茶,第一道浸泡了一分二十秒得出标准浓度的茶汤,第二道的浸泡时间应是三十秒,当置茶量增加到三分之一壶,同样的水温,第一道若浸泡了一分十秒得出标准浓度的茶汤,第二道的浸泡时间就要缩到十秒。

假设第三道茶是隔了一段时间再泡,这时除继续闻茶叶的香气与看茶叶舒展的状况外,还要将间隔的时间因素加进去。如果上述第二道三十秒出汤的例子,在停了三十分钟再泡第三道,浸泡时间可以不必延长,依旧三十秒即可(若不暂停而是继续冲泡,则要四十五秒)。若是上述第二道十秒出汤的例子,停了三十分钟再泡第三道,这时的浸泡时间应是即冲即倒(就是冲了水,盖上壶盖,就要将茶汤倒出来了)。

我爱茶,我如此细心与它为伍,包括事前的选茶、平时的储存与再度让它精炼、饮用时的冲泡。我有条件可以欣赏、享受到美好又准确的茶汤。

  (1884)

茶道艺术家精炼功夫 三.报到时的准备-20130708周一喝茶慢-许玉莲

茶道艺术家精炼功夫

.报到时的准备

许玉莲

20120708周一喝茶慢MONDAY SLOW TEA

「茶汤作品欣赏会」注重纯品茗的效果,纯品茗的环境要空气流通洁净,四周不要有过分杂乱的色彩与挂饰,不要多余的声响,不要有闲杂物品,而且这段时间要特别空出来不再处理其他事务,就是为茶而来,专心在茶上的。

泡茶师或主办方要为这些目的作出准备,而且需将这些与品茗者说清楚,还要为品茗者抵达茶会现场后可能会碰到的难题一一提供解说与服务,让品茗者感觉心安理得,品茗者才不会怯场,最后大家才会产生默契,如何使品茗者在陌生环境里处之泰然,泡茶师要不厌其烦的为对方着想做好种种安排。

「茶汤作品欣赏会」要采取「闭门」方式进行,所谓「闭门」即整个茶会环境(如第一段所述)为茶而设置,故要有场内、场外之分,此举让大家在场内可更投入。场外要有报到处,品茗者可提早十五、二十分钟到场,此处负责事务有:

一.接待-品茗者抵达后可在这里歇息、问候。寒暄完毕就要收拾心情进场品茗,进场后便不需要很多语言。

二.接受讯问-品茗者对如何入座、茶会进序等情况可能有不清楚的地方,可给予说明。因为「茶汤作品欣赏会」的举办形式属于茶道新兴方向,有必要安排工作人员在报到处做之前解说引导。

三.存放私人物品-如果属于家庭、公司等小型邀请式的茶会,有能力的话都要预备衣帽间帮忙品茗者收放外套、提袋、手机等物品。因为品茗者坐下来后如果怀里抱着一堆提袋、外套等,活动能力会降低,进行品茗没那么方便。但如果属于大型公开售票式的茶会,要处理这么多私人物品并不容易,不设衣帽间了,「茶汤作品欣赏会」的活动一旦普遍后,品茗者就渐渐知道不适宜带太多物品入场。

四. 提醒-工作人员要提醒品茗者不要带水和食物进场、手机要关掉或灭音、不可拍照(或可允许拍照,但限制于开场十分钟而已,并且拍照不可用闪光灯、照相机需灭音等)、不可录影。

五.衣装预备-「茶汤作品欣赏会」需要有「衣着规定」,大家可根据该次茶会的隆重和正式程度的规范来着装出席,这样大家处在同一种氛围才不会引起尴尬和不快。故报到处需要准备几件干净、正式上衣(男、女装都要),以备穿得不符合现场所需的品茗者借穿。不要因为品茗者的衣着「不符合规定」而拒绝他入场,应提早未雨绸缪为不及预备的人预备。

六.洗手间-附近要有洗手间以方便品茗者。

七.如果是次茶会采取席地而坐方式,要提早告知品茗者,品茗者便可安排适合席地而坐的衣装,比如需要较宽松的长裤,女士穿裙子需留意长度,坐下来要将两脚完全遮盖。如果该场合要脱掉鞋子,提早通知品茗者带一双干净的袜子来替换。报到处要预备一些新袜子给忘记带的人。

 

  (1770)

什么时候不必自备茶杯-许玉莲

什么时候不必自备茶杯

许玉莲

有一次我接待来自国外的茶友,是一家茶艺私塾的老师及学生们,她们一行到吉隆坡出席一项活动,完了说要来看看我们,由一位相识的业者陪同过来。有同事负责交给我当日要品赏的茶叶:武夷岩茶金毛猴,我将茶叶倒入茶荷,细细看了一下,了解茶况后就将茶叶传给来宾赏茶。然后我就把茶壶和茶杯从柜子里取出,摆放在泡茶席。当时品茗者共十三人,我把选好的茶杯一一准确放在它们的位置后,突然那位老师从自己的提袋拿出一个小布袋,打开小布袋拿出一个茶杯和杯托,说自己有备用的茶杯,就将茶杯排列在十三个杯子傍边。其他几位学生也纷纷效仿要拿出自己的杯子,茶席上一时眼花缭乱,摆上了几款材质、优劣、造型、色泽都不一样的茶杯。

又有一次,公司有员工大集会,负责人请几位同事出列泡茶比赛,规则是全部人拿着一个茶杯轮流到各席去品茶,喝完投票。主持比赛事项的人员就准备茶席,也准备了一盘干净的品杯摆放在观众席让大家用,有两位同事执意跑回去自己座位,将自己的茶杯拿出来,才到比赛席上喝茶。

另一次,我出席一个活动,主办方的开幕仪式是请专人泡老普洱茶请大家喝,有工作人员前来分茶杯,依序再来一位工作人员持茶海将茶倒入杯。坐在我隔壁的一位同行从自己口袋里取出一个茶杯来装茶,拒绝了主办方安排的杯。

以上茶会状况,来宾没有必要取出自己的备用茶杯来品茶,我们自备茶杯的用意,是预备去到一些活动现场,出席者太多,主办方无法那么方便提供几百、几千个茶杯,我们每人自备便可轻易解决。偶尔一群茶友约定到某地点泡茶,大家约定带自己的茶杯也很好。有些茶会也特别指定出席者需要自己预备茶杯来参加,尤其是主办茶席式的茶会,来宾可拿着自己的杯在现场游走索茶喝。但是上述三项茶会,较倾向「主题式」的泡茶,即有专业泡茶师在掌席,安排好了要泡什么茶,知道要怎么表达茶汤的风格,才决定要选择怎么样的茶壶、茶杯来实行的,茶具材质、大小、造型对茶汤香味的表现影响非常大,属于泡茶师创作部分,品茗者应给与关注和尊重。

20130625马来西亚光明日报每周专栏《茶人的第三隻眼》 (2225)

茶道艺术家精炼功夫二.「茶汤作品欣赏会」进行时的迟到者-20130701周一喝茶慢-许玉莲

茶道艺术家精炼功夫

.茶汤作品欣赏会进行时的迟到者

许玉莲

20130701周一喝茶慢MONDAY SLOW TEA

「茶汤作品欣赏会」是采取售票方式或发邀请柬给特定人士、之前已经预算好人数、在一定的时间才举办的发表会,唯一之目的是进行茶汤创作和赏用。关于规定时间,习惯了采用流水席方式泡茶喝茶的人们,对这种安排觉得有约束、不够自在。习惯了根深蒂固「客来奉茶」的人们会很不是滋味,认为泡茶师实在不懂礼仪,怎么了奉茶还要规定时间。 泡茶师不能只顾自己埋头苦恼泡茶就好,不理人们的感受,我们要协助大家度过这个「需要预约、守时」的难关。

要提早告知大家这种欣赏会是有安排时间的,票根或邀请柬上须写清楚茶会从什么时候开始又什么时候结束。如果是邀请的,邀请柬应该还要附上一联络方式,请临时未克出席的客人提早让我们知道。茶会举行的前一天,主办方或泡茶师最好再联络各受邀品茗者一次确认他们是否能够出席。

无论售票或邀请方式,时间到了就必须如期开场,如果茶席还有空位未被入坐,表示品茗者迟到或将缺席,泡茶师不可因此失去信心而慌了手脚,应如常的开始「茶汤作品」之创作,空座位不必撤走,留在原地,多出来的茶杯可收入备用柜子。

「茶汤作品欣赏会」已经开始进行中,我们要如何接待迟到的品茗者呢?可在入口处摆放一些椅子,让迟到者坐着休息。迟到者不宜抵达现场了随时就要入席,那会骚扰大家,大家也许在赏香也许在回味。要等到某个段落终结了,接待员才将他带入座位,并且以不惊动席上任何人为原则。什么时候才是适当时刻?比如本次「茶汤作品欣赏会」有三场,每场冲泡三道茶,于第一场每一道茶欣赏完毕、泡茶师预备要泡下一道茶之前都是迟到者适合进场的时候。如果有人在第一场完毕之后也无出现,我们就可当作缺席或废票,第二场开始前可将多出位子移走调整到对的数目,第二场已经进行中才抵达的人,可不招待入席了(票根上可标示这一点)。

迟到者入席时与泡茶师静静鞠躬示意,与左邻右舍静静微笑招呼,轻轻拉开椅子坐下即好,不必有语言寒暄,接待员可在入席之前提醒迟到者怎么做。泡茶师或点头或微笑施礼,就可继续进行下一道「茶汤作品创作」。

如果迟到者入席后肆无忌惮的高谈阔论,席中长辈或有经验者可提示他不宜过多语言。如果有人继续不顾及茶会中的安静,也不与泡茶师打招呼,对泡茶师的创作也没有给予重视和专注,这时,泡茶师应停下所有泡茶程序,静静等他结束谈话,互相施礼后才可开始进行泡茶。泡茶师的眼神要关注到每一位品茗者,当发现有人无法集中精神在茶汤上,泡茶师要及时带领他,泡茶师不要丢失任何一位品茗者,不要只顾着自己往前走,泡茶师要有将「品茗者」化为「茶汤作品欣赏会」的一部分的义务。

  (1765)

一场学校的茶汤欣赏会-20130626周三小方块-蔡荣章

一场学校的茶汤欣赏会

蔡荣章

20130626周三小方块 Wednesday Tea Corner

先到场的来宾已在门口等待,他们都已将自己的雨伞提包相机寄存在衣帽间。邀请柬上标明的入场时间到后,大门打开,大家排队进入〝洁手净心〞的走道。有位工作人员从大玻璃盅舀了一杓茶汤淋到自己伸出的双手,冲洗后的茶汤汇集于手下的陶盆。在陶盆的旁边取一张纸巾将手擦干,进入会场。

会场布置了十七座茶席,每席有各自的茶具规划与设置的风格。七张品茗者的坐椅围绕在每个茶席的前方,中间的一张坐椅靠背外侧贴了茶席的编号(即1~17号)。大家自由参观茶席,在茶汤欣赏会开始前自动找到自己的茶席坐下,茶席上的座位没再标示号码,也就是可以随意就坐的意思。每人的邀请柬上除标示有茶会程序外还附有一张入场券,券上有本次茶汤欣赏会第一第二第三场要参与的茶席号数。

茶汤欣赏会的时间一到, 司仪透过广播传出声音: 「各位老师,各位同学, 现在我们要进行由泡茶师掌席的第一届茶汤作品发表会。本茶汤欣赏会强调茶道艺术的完整性,请大家把手机调为静音,不要拍照,也不要有太多的言语。我们备有专责的摄影人员,会把照片存放在茶文化系的网站上。谢谢。」接着响起了四响锣声,十七位掌席的泡茶师从后台出现,进入到各茶席的泡茶位子站定,大家给予欢迎的掌声。泡茶师向自己席上的老师同学行个礼,大家回礼后坐下來,开始从事他的第一场茶汤作品创作。

茶汤欣赏会分成三个场次,每场半小时,泡茶三道。起场时是小心翼翼地将茶从茶罐內请出到茶荷,传递茶荷要来宾欣赏就要冲泡的茶叶,接着置茶入壶。泡茶师端详着壶内的茶量,调控好水温,胸有成竹地将水冲入壶内,按下计时器,眼睛观照着席上的来宾,意在邀请大家陪茶度过蛻变成汤的时刻。茶汤分送到来宾面前,大家观看着茶汤,端起杯子欣赏飘送出来的香气,有人将茶放回桌面,等茶变得温热再喝,也再次观赏茶叶重生成茶汤后的英姿,有人已迫不及待地享用起来。茶汤欣赏会每场的第二十分钟会敲锣一声,提醒泡茶师结束泡茶、收拾茶具,三十分钟时敲锣二声,表示到了换场的时间。这时司仪广播:「请各位来宾在前往新茶席前,将自己的杯子放回泡茶师原先放置的地方,并向泡茶师致谢。我们五分钟后进行第二场的茶汤欣赏会。」

五分钟后,敲了一声锣。泡茶师在自己的茶席上,等来宾坐定收拾了心情,开始第二场的茶汤作品创作。拿出茶叶罐,很有信心地将茶拨入茶荷,请来宾欣赏茶第一生命周期的茶干,然后置茶入壶,以该茶过度到第二生命周期需要的水温浇灌,倒出茶汤,请来宾欣赏茶第二生命周期的茶汤。连续三次的茶汤欣赏,如果还有时间,泡茶师将已贡献完茶汤的茶叶展现在茶盘上,让来宾欣赏即将进入第三生命周期的叶底。下一个一声锣终将响起,是茶汤作品创作结束的提醒,十分钟后的二声锣是第二场的结束。五分钟后,来宾找到第三场的茶席坐下,开始第三场的茶汤作品发表会。

每一场不换茶的种类,但重新创作三道一組的茶汤作品,新来宾到来后,泡茶师准备一组新的杯子迎接大家。供应三道茶汤后,泡茶师还会提供一道白开水给来宾品赏,一方面补充来宾身体的水分一方面显示泡茶师对泡茶用水的用心。第三场茶汤欣赏会依然是请来宾赏茶叶,闻茶香,尝茶味,看叶底,依然是请来宾欣赏茶叶三个生命周期的变化。第三场的第一道茶汤之后,泡茶师为来宾准备了茶食,这些茶食是每位泡茶师特别为他的茶汤选配的,事先已准备好在茶席的侧柜内。享用完茶食,泡茶师继续他的第二道茶汤。进行二十分钟后仍然一声锣响起,提醒泡茶师结束泡茶,泡茶师供应完最后的一道白开水,收拾茶具,来宾将自己的杯子放回泡茶师原定的地方。

司仪广播道:「第一届茶汤作品发表会就要结束,我们今晚每人享用了三席丰美的茶汤, 我们的身心充满着茶叶各生命周期的芬芳。请各茶席的泡茶师,也是我们崇敬的茶道艺术家出列到台前,让我们以热烈的掌声向他们致谢。」掌声之中,缓缓的四锣声伴随而来,掌声在锣声停息后静止了下来。司仪接着宣布:「第一届茶汤作品发表会到此结束,谢谢老师与同学的参加,晚安。」

 

  (1794)

成本组合方式影响茶业发展-20130612周三小方块-蔡荣章

成本组合方式影响茶业发展

蔡荣章

20130612周三小方块 Wednesday Tea Corner

茶叶订价包括茶青(即鮮叶原料)的价格与成品茶的价格,成品茶的价格又包括初制茶与商品茶的价格,商品茶的价格又包括出厂价、批发价与零售价。

影响茶青价格的因素有产地(包括地理位置、海拔高低、土壤与施肥等)、气候(长年的气候与采收期的气候)、品种、采摘季节、采摘时辰(如清晨、露水干后、黄昏)、采摘方法(如机采或手采)、采摘部位(如只采芽心、采一心一叶、一心二叶、一心三叶—-)、采摘品质(如老嫩整齐度、茶梗与茶面破碎度)等。

影响初制茶价格的因素有制茶时之气候(包括温度、湿度、风力、风向等)、制茶的技术与设备等。

影响商品茶价格的因素有精制(如分级、揀梗、后熟等)与加工(如熏花、焙火、拼配、紧压、陈化等)的技术、包装等。

影响商品茶之零售价的因素有卖场位置、店面装潢、营业员素质等。

现在市面上茶叶专卖店的茶叶品项有一半以上是属于高价的,这些高价的成本显现在哪里呢?大家很直觉地会说都花在包装与店面的装潢了。过度的包装是种浪费,即使礼品茶也要适可而止,过度的装潢亦复如此,但这是现今茶业界最舍得花钱的地方。着眼于茶业长期发展,我们要将成本多花一些在茶树的栽培、制作的人力与设备、营业员的素质上。

选择较佳的种茶地理环境、使用自然的给养方式(如堆肥等有机肥料)、利用生态平衡与非农药的防病虫害手段等,是多花成本在茶树栽培的方法。聘请有能力的制茶师、建设合乎卫生要求的厂房是多花成本在制茶上的方法。聘请经过专业训练且有语言表达能力的营业员(尤其在非使用华语的地区)是多花成本在营业员上的方法。

采取自然农法的栽培方式、建设合乎卫生要求的初精制与加工厂房是改善成品茶卫生与农药残留的根本之道。这也是目前大家最关心的问题,事实上也影响着成品茶的品质,尤其是栽培的方式。所以茶业界应该放大优质茶青的收购价格,也就是给予原料更多的成本空间。

如何推销茶叶,或说是如何卖茶,关乎到茶饮给广大消費者的形象。经过专业训练(包括学校教育与企业自己的培养)的营业员才能够把茶泡好、教会顾客如何泡好茶、将茶的欣赏法将茶的文化性与艺术性介绍给客人,如此,茶的真正价值才得以显现。如果是非华语地区,还得考虑当地的语言能力。所以茶业界应该放大专业营业员的聘用薪水,也就是给予行销人力更多的成本空间。

現在看到的是将成本大量投向包装与店面,舍不得花在茶的卫生与安全、舍不得僱用经过专业训练的员工,结果茶的卫生与安全改善缓慢、茶的品质逐漸下滑(因前面第一个舍不得),学校茶文化或茶学专业毕业的学生在茶叶卖场待不住(因前面第二个舍不得)。

有人会说漂亮的包装与气派的装潢容易见效(赢得业绩)、茶的卫生与安全不易看到、品质的逐漸下滑不是我一家的事、营业员的专业知识不如会做生意重要。但是社会总是往前进步的,消费者要求的会逐漸驱向于专业,能及早往此方向布局的茶企业容易获得消费者的信赖。

 

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泡茶师进场与退场的规矩-20130610周一喝茶慢-许玉莲

许玉莲

泡茶师进场与退场的规矩

许玉莲

20130610周一喝茶慢MONDAY SLOW TEA

泡茶师为客人掌席泡茶呈献茶汤作品的品茗会,泡茶师要有进场与退场的规矩。茶会开始前把茶席设置完毕,让泡茶师等在席上至一位一位客人入座了才开始泡茶不是一个好办法,那是接待负责带位、公关负责寒暄的工作。泡茶师在泡茶前将茶席整装完毕就到后台休息,直至被主持人请出—-如果泡茶师独自一人入席即开始泡茶,这样子有点生硬,与物与人的感情还没投入似的。

泡茶师的进场,不是说把进场仪式包装得有声有色、音乐响起就够了,也不是拿着一盘漂亮的花、提着一盏古董灯风姿绰约走入茶席就完了,这些动作与茶无关,对品茶一点帮助都没有。

泡茶师要怎么进场呢?品茗环境打扫、布置好后,摆上泡茶桌、椅子、储存柜子、屏风等(如有),泡茶桌如有桌巾可铺上,将煮水器摆放在妥当位置,辅茶器如茶匙、杯托、茶巾等也布置好,茶席设置至此可告一段落,就等来宾入座。时间到了,泡茶师要很郑重的拿着此次茶会的主茶器进场,可作以下安排:将主茶器如壶、茶海、杯子、茶叶(装好在茶罐)收入一托盘或篮子,用恭敬的心请它们进场。

茶器收纳要有一定上下或里外次序,根据要摆放的前后时间决定它的位置,如壶垫要放在最外面,接着才是茶壶以此类推,这样从盘或篮子把茶器取出时就不会乱,第一从最外面取出壶垫,放在茶席,第二取出茶壶,置放壶垫上,壶若有布袋包裹,小心打开取出后,把布袋折叠整齐收回篮子里。一件一件取出置放茶席上,应摆在最远位置的茶具要先从篮子里取出,依序从远至近,都放好了收下篮子,最后备水煮水,这样一步一步进入泡茶状况,牵动着品茗者的心慢慢专注在茶道上,那才叫美呢。

退场要怎么做?品茗到最后,清水也喝了,茶渣也看了闻了,将器具做初步清理,取出装主茶器的篮子,依序把壶、茶海、茶杯、茶罐等一一收进去,站起来将篮子收进去(后台),再出到茶席来,与大家鞠躬,告知大家结束了。有这样子一丝不苟的前后呼应,有这样子对茶对人的依依不舍,那才叫好呢。

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从泡茶师考试到茶汤欣赏会-20130529周三小方块 -蔡荣章

从泡茶师考试到茶汤欣赏会

蔡荣章

20130529周三小方块 Wednesday Tea Corner

泡茶师检定考试的术科考试(另有学科考试)是检测使用各种不同的茶器,泡好各种不同茶叶的能力,而且能够应用在各种不同的场合。

所谓使用任何的茶具,是指考题指定使用什么茶具就要使用什么茶具,包括材质、式样与大小。材质可能包括陶、瓷、金属,质量总会在一定程度之上(主办单位知道太差品质的壶具是不宜泡茶的)。式样可能包括了侧提壶、橫把壶、飞天壶、提梁壶,及各自不同的造型。浸泡器(如壶、盖碗等)的大小应该配合供茶的份量,如果考题提供的是150cc的壶,但要供应二道各8杯的茶汤,又注明了每杯八分满的容积是30cc。这很明显的要考生连泡二次来供应一道茶(也就是总共泡四次来供应二道茶)。如果考试有题大桶茶法,考场会提供相应的大桶茶用具。

所谓泡好各种不同的茶叶,这包含了二项检测的意义。一是什么茶都要会泡。每届的泡茶师检定考试都会从各种不同制法的茶类中选出三种茶作为考题,而且令茶叶品质不一。考生必須从外观上了解茶的制法与品质特征。二是要有把茶泡好的把握,且这个把握是在所泡茶叶总道数的80%以上。泡茶师检定考试设有4位评审,每位评审要为每位考生的3种茶打出3个分数,4位评审共有12个分数, 分数在70分以上者才算及格, 获10个以上的及格分数视为通过术科考试。每位考生必須同时通过学科与术科考试才算取得泡茶师资格,不是学、术科的平均分数是否及格。

术科考试的成绩还包括大桶茶用茶量与汤量的〝经济〞考量,与三种茶总共泡茶〝时间〞的掌控。大桶茶法是历届泡茶师检定考试皆有的术科考题,用茶量是否超过〝茶、汤比为2%〞的衡量标准太多、泡出的汤量是否离题目要求的太远,考场的监考官在测量所剩茶叶与茶汤之后,当场宣布扣分情形(在简章中曾明定)供评审员参考。三种茶要求在40分种内完成,超过45分钟也有扣分标准,监考官会在该场考试结束时公告超时扣分情形。为什么要有上面二项的要求?第一,泡茶师要将茶叶做最有效的应用。第二,泡出的茶汤要足以供应所需的人员与杯数,也不能造成浪费。第三,要有把握在规划的时间内将茶泡妥,否则如何应用到生活上所需的各种场合?

术科考试的成绩评定不将茶汤、动作、服装、仪态、礼节等项目拆开,只有〝泡茶〞一个总分,最后再扣掉该扣的经济与时间分数,免得动作、服装、仪态、礼节等〝包装〞的项目太过影响了〝泡好茶〞的核心目标。

通常每场术科考试为4~6位考生,为免相邻的考生相互干扰,考题都是单数号与双数号分开的,但是三种茶的冲泡总道数一致,茶叶的冲泡难易度也大致相同。这项公平的考虑是各场间都要做到的。

评审在考试前务必充分理解各种考试用茶的品质,主办单位都会安排评委试茶时间。除以评茶鉴定法识茶外,还要确定每种茶最低与最高浓度的标准。评审席上备有白开水供评审饮用,备有茶水杯供评审倒掉或吐掉评饮后的茶汤。每场泡茶结束后即行公布成绩。

通过泡好茶的技术检定后,泡茶师接下來就是要提供泡好的茶给自己与周遭的朋友享用,这时就要从泡茶师检定的考场进入到茶汤欣赏会的会场。茶汤欣赏会让自己与客人专注在茶道的氛围与茶汤色、香、味、性的欣赏与享用上。

有能力举办茶汤欣赏会的人一定要是能泡好茶的泡茶师,不能只是将自己与茶席装扮得漂漂亮亮。茶汤欣赏会是属于茶道艺术的领域,它的主体是泡茶、奉茶、与茶汤,尤其茶汤是最终呈现的作品。所以茶汤欣赏会又称为茶汤作品发表会,几位泡茶师联合举办的茶汤欣赏会就被称为茶汤作品联合发表会,能很好将茶泡好,很好掌控这样茶会的泡茶师就被称为茶道艺术家。

泡茶师经过励炼后就可以成为茶道艺术家,他就可以主动举办茶汤作品发表会或茶汤作品联合发表会,也可以在经理人的协助之下承办各种以茶汤欣赏為主的茶事活动(Tea Event)。茶汤欣赏会都将如举办室內音乐会一般,成为人们追求艺术内涵、享受文化生活,建立业余兴趣的主要活动,不论是企业体的产品发表会、婚礼的举办、各项活动的开幕议式,或家族成员的聚会、一群爱茶人的生活品味,泡茶师都可以为他们承办大小规模不一的茶汤欣赏会。

茶道艺术家要有找茶的能力,找寻自己能夠很骄傲呈现给客人的好茶。有能力将搜寻到的茶施以泡饮之前必要的精练。如果茶汤欣赏会上的茶是由承办单位准备,茶道艺术家也要事先充分理解并行试泡。茶道艺术家还要懂得在什么时间奉上一道怎样的茶食,这道茶食或由自己制作或是有人帮忙料理。茶道艺术家还要准备好搭配茶的适当茶具,这套茶具的组配要令自己使用起来得心应手。茶汤欣赏会的时候,茶道艺术家应用茶具、水、茶食、品茗环境,与他素有的茶道知识与修养,将茶完美地呈现给客人享用。这时的茶是包括了冲泡之前的它、冲泡之后的茶汤、品饮完毕之后的它,以及茶食、环境、动作、言语等,如交响乐般的组合与搭配。

 

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茶汤作品是怎样做出来-20130422周一喝茶慢-许玉莲

茶汤作品是怎样做出来

许玉莲

20130422周一喝茶慢MONDAY SLOW TEA

品茗馆卖「有泡茶师泡茶的茶汤」,茶汤商品的产生需经过相当繁复且细腻的过程才能得到,一要很认真的去寻找原料,二要很好的精炼这些原料,三要将这些原料结合不同的时间、人物、环境、器物和茶食,四要在现场真正把它做出来呈献给客人。

寻找原料,是泡茶师对泡茶对品茗已经建立想法,了解自己想做的品茗类型(如:专做精致乌龙茶和绿茶品赏的稀有精品型,专做有年份的各种存放茶品赏的老茶型,专做各类茶叶的入门品赏的基础型等),对茶们充满感情,甚至带有使命感,非得要把这个那个味道找出来让它传世,让人们都可以喝到它享有它不可。

泡茶师不随便跟着市场的流行风,也不是随便在街上拉几箱茶叶回家就了事的,他们知道这个茶叶长在什么地方,什么季节采摘,如何做,做茶的人是怎样的一个人,他们和制茶者对话,他们和茶认真做朋友,有必要时他们还会泡在做茶那里一段日子,在这过程将自己对茶叶的看法,传达给制茶者,长期合作茶叶就会形成一种别人没有的特质。

寻找茶具也一样,泡茶师先清楚了自己的品茗方向,再依照茶叶的个性与所要表达的茶汤风格挑选器物,努力找寻适合的茶具设计者。不管什么茶具,需针对各类材质(如瓷、陶、玻璃、金属、竹、木等)的优劣、茶具的质感、造工的精细度、器物的造型美以及功能美要求做到足够的好才行,茶具无论在视觉、手感、和影响茶汤是否可口各方面都要让人有感觉,品茗起来才自然而然身心愉快。泡茶师也会用心为茶叶找匹配的水、煮水器,加温的方法要用电或炭,用炭的话又用什么炭,这一切一切,泡茶师掌握到那美的点,整个品茗会才会如沐春风。

寻找原料还包括品茗时要吃什么茶食,找谁制作,自己做的话要采用什么食材等。比如要做土豆泥沙拉、葡萄干糯米饭,就要从识别土豆、调和土豆的黄油、葡萄干、糯米的质量开始选起(如某品种土豆适合拿去炸薯条另一品种才适合做成泥、黄油和土豆泥的最好比例是多少、糯米有些需要泡水泡过夜有些不必等),然后再制定烹煮方法、烹调用具、上桌餐具等。泡茶师不能放弃任何一个细节,只要有一小处失误,它可就会让整个品茗会泡汤。

有了好原料,泡茶师要有办法处理这些原料,有些细微的走向,只有泡茶师自己心里明白,他们以很珍惜的心情看待手上的原料,不会匆匆忙忙当它蓬头垢面时就要出卖它,泡茶师要阅读原料,想办法使它变成更完美更完整,如茶叶:水仙茶有些需要复火,放进焙火笼慢慢再烤使之变成熟火的风味。有些普洱茶、六堡茶不能一开封就冲泡,需要给一点时间让它摊放退仓,更进一步酝酿转化成迷人的格调。有些茶叶即使是趁早趁鲜泡饮的风格,也需要再收存二个星期的时间让它退火。有些茶叶需要剔除枝梗,风味才显得优雅。如茶具:紫砂器具需要先用茶水浸泡一下。还有茶食、用水、燃料、餐具等少不了种种考量的「加工」,才能整装待发。

把拥有天赋的原料都精炼成「仙丹」后,泡茶师需要将之结合在品茗环境、品茗者为何人、品茗时间与为何品茗这几项重要因素上。泡茶师要懂得为不同的品茗者组合、规划一套套因时、地、人有异而不一的茶谱(茶谱:事前规划好的品茗册,泡什么茶叶,用什么茶具,什么方式泡,泡几道,什么时间食用茶点等程序一一列明),不必等客人开口,泡茶师看看什么客人进来了,就贴心的知道要拿哪一个产品给他,泡茶师须锻炼到有能力去感受、「诊断」客人在这一刻带什么心情,怎样的茶谱可以抚慰他的需要。泡茶师需要反复排练他的茶法。

万事具备后,泡茶师要怎么把这么珍贵的产品奉献给客人呢,这就到了真正实施的现场,品茗会由三项东西构成:茶叶、茶具和水,泡茶师要做的就是在不同的时间把不同的物件(茶叶、水、茶汤)倒去不同的空间(热水壶、泡茶器、茶海、茶杯)。泡茶师像一位管弦樂團的指挥家,他的职责:选一份茶谱给适合的客人,为现有的客人与这份茶谱定下节奏,在他的指挥与引导下,协调茶席上的茶与人、人与地、地与物,使之能够成为一个整体,这一个整体最后会显现在「茶汤」上,泡茶师茶泡得好不好,不只是泡茶技法有没有掌握到家,这里面还包括了泡茶师投入足够的能耐、感情所产生的感染力牵引品茗者进入他的节奏,与他一起诠释和创作这个「茶汤作品」,泡茶师的脾性、见识与气质无可避免地会影响整个茶席的波动,所以同一个茶,同一套茶谱,由两个人泡,呈现出来的「茶汤作品」会全然两个风格。

以上所说都是属于品茗馆「茶汤作品」这个商品的核心价值:茶汤里有泡茶师的慧思。彷如演奏家演奏一首曲子、画家画一幅画供大家欣赏,作品里面有他们的思考,他们想说的话以及他们来回重复不断排练的手艺。这个商品别人是不能复制的。茶汤要通过那么一大帮人在不同的地点、时间点上努力才能够产生的商品,它需经过泡茶师上下往来去整合,最后才用他认为恰当的方式诠释泡出来的。茶叶离开了这个地方,要泡出一样好的风格很难。

茶汤作品的享用,是很精致的享受,故此,每家品茗馆自己茶谱上的茶叶都不会再作外卖的打算,那是为品茗馆的茶汤市场特别订造的茶叶,与量产来零售给茶叶市场的茶叶有所不同,这种只有在我们馆内由专职泡茶师现泡才能充分表达出我们要的味道,不外卖,卖了给客人回家泡得不好,不但浪费茶叶,也将会损坏品茗馆的威信。好的茶具、好的茶食也只留在品茗馆内里用,不外卖。品茗馆里的好茶、好茶具、好茶食与整个品茗馆的环境、茶席配备及泡茶师的茶道思想是一整个的整体,它们都会浓缩在那杯茶汤,不要分散来卖。品茗馆只卖茶汤商品,其他的东西不卖了。要把品茗馆经营得独一无二,茶汤只有这个地方才喝得到,客人就会源源不断。

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